wolfe10

I am not familiar with either one, but here are "clickables": Internetcamping.net Ultimatervcamping.com

If a member of FMCA, use these guides to determine what is towable 4 wheels down: http://www.fmca.com/index.php/magazine/tow...04-towing-index Brett Wolfe

Bill brings up a good point-- perhaps we should expand on it. There is a tendency for many to confuse two TOTALLY UNRELATED THINGS. 1. BUILD QUALITY 2. QUALITY SERVICE TO FIX THINGS THAT WERE NOT BUILT TO "QUALITY STANDARDS" IN THE FIRST PLACE. Please, evaluate them separately. Both are important, but if QUALITY is what you are seeking, a quality product is VERY DIFFERENT from a lesser quality product where the manufacturer graciously fixes the problems. Brett Wolfe

One of my favorite methods of determining overall quality is to go look at some old ones of the same model/manufacturer. When they get to be 10-15 years old, you can REALLY tell a difference: 15 year old solid wood cabinets are very different from wrapped press board cabinets. Drawers on bearinged slides are very different from those on plastic slides. Gel coat FG is very different from Filon. Another factor that I relate to quality is ease of service -- how accessible did the coach maker make the things you routinely need to service. Do you have to stand on your head and have two people to change a fan belt, or is it an easy 5 minute job. Where are the fuel filters located? Can the air dryer be serviced easily, or is it installed above the rear axle? This is important if you do it yourself. It becomes CRITICAL if you are paying others over $100 an hour to do it. Another, often overlooked difference is documentation. When we were shopping for our present coach (LONG time ago), I asked to see a wiring diagram. Most salesmen looked like a "Deer caught in the headlights". But, I suspect the number of coaches that have zero electrical issues over their lifetime is very low. A wiring diagram will save you/an expensive technician countless hours of diagnostic time. And yes, each Foretravel comes with a wiring diagram in the owners manual. Brett Wolfe

Montie, While I am sure quite a few will reply about "quality", almost by definition, it will be SUBJECTIVE. Perhaps a better approach is to ask SPECIFIC QUESTIONS that relate to quality and even more importantly, the "must have" things that you are looking for in your next coach. A few thought starters: Rear vs side radiator. Sufficient CCC Particular interior layout that you like Engine -- actually pounds GCW/HP is more important Another approach is to post what coach you have now and what you like and don't like about it. Then others may be able to direct you toward coaches that more closely meet your "want list". Good hunting. Brett Wolfe

Check voltage at the bulbs (or high and low beam terminals if a single bulb) with the engine running. Then check voltage at the battery with the engine running. If the reading at the headlight bulb is more than .3 or .4 VDC lower than at the battery, you can fairly inexpensively fix this. And certainly, a headlight operating , say, 12.5 VDC will be less bright than one operating at, say, 13.7 VDC. On the vast majority of vehicles, the power to run the headlights goes through the light switch. There is resistance (which reduces voltage and therefore headlight brightness) in all the yards of wiring, the switch itself, connectors, etc. The "FIX" is to use the head light switch ONLY to turn on a relay that supplies the headlights. You will need two relays, one for low beams, one for high beams. Power for the headlights will go directly from the battery through large gauge wire to the relay (located in a protected area under the hood area). And from the relay in large gauge wire to either the high or low beam lights. The relay will be controlled by the wire that currently supplies low/high beams. Total cost should be under $25. Brett Wolfe

Yes, absorption refrigerators are sensitive to being operated out of level. As a generalization, older models more so than newer ones. Being operated out of level can ruin the cooling unit. And all this information (in terms of sensitivity to out of level operation) is in your refrigerator owners manual. It will tell you specs for front to back and side to side level. This is ONLY while parked. While driving, the motion of the RV keeps the cooling solution moving. Brett Wolfe

Go to any wrecking yard that has the same model Dodge van. OR, if you want new, to any Dodge dealer. Brett Wolfe

I agree completely. Our ratio of VIEWS to POSTS is over 100 to 1! So people ARE interested in the discussions. But, with many who are new to a Forum, this is the normal progression. People want to feel like they "know what is going on" before posting. And our Forum is about at that age where we have a lot of "Viewers" who should be ready to start posting. It is a shame because many who just view have questions that are shared by many, OR answers that could help many. It sounds like a platitude (OK, it IS a platitude), but THERE ARE NO STUPID QUESTIONS. Brett Wolfe

Montie, Glad you are back in business. Be sure to use a "sediment only" filter for an external filter IF you are going to be storing the water in your potable water tank. You do NOT want to remove the chlorine from the water and THEN store it, particularly in the summer. A 5 micron sediment only pre filter with a charcoal filter under the sink to remove odors and chlorine right before use is a great combination. Brett Wolfe

Jack, I am glad you found a solution to your odor problem, BUT, water in the P traps should isolate the tank at the sinks and shower. And the siphon breaks (under sink "vents") are not expensive to replace. The rubber gaskets in them DO dry out or get "crudded up". Add a venturi-style roof vent cover and you should not need to do anything special to keep your coach sweet smelling. Brett Wolfe

Welcome to the FMCA Forum. You are on the right track. The goal is to isolate the tanks and their vent system from the interior. Trying to make the tank contents smell good won't work. Start by checking places that the tanks can vent to the interior: 1. Make sure all "P" traps under sinks, shower, etc have water in them. they evaporate when the coach is not in use and water sloshes out of them while driving. Same for toilet-- keep water in it. 2. Smell under sinks to determine if the check/vent valves are not functioning properly. There should be no smell from them. The rubber check valves do dry out and need replacement. 3. NEVER flush the toilet with the vent fan on, as the negative pressure WILL suck tank air inside. 4. Minimize negative pressure inside while driving-- don't leave roof vents open and depending on design some side window also create negative pressure. Once a year it is a good idea to take a hose up on the roof (if safe to do so) and run a little water down the vent pipes to make sure nothing is obstructing free flow to the roof. There are several good brands of roof vent caps that create a venturi effect to lower pressure in the tank. If the smell persists, check for cracked tank, tank fitting, plumbing fitting, vent pipe that has slipped down into the tank, etc.

"Loud Popping Noises" do not normally come from thin sheet metal heat shields. Have a good front-end man jack up the rig and check the ball joints. Also check the shock mounts. Brett Wolfe

IF cooling while on propane is the problem, the best answer is to pull out your Dometic Refrigerator Owners Manual. There will be a section on "Burner area tune-up" toward the back. It takes no special tools and no parts. Do NOT short cut the procedure. Things that degrade refrigerator performance on propane that you will address are: 1. Dirt in propane jet. 2. Dirt, rust or insect nest in burner tube. 3. Carbon or rust on igniter/thermocouple 4. Igniter/thermocouple gap Dometic recommends this as an ANNUAL Preventive Maintenance item. If performance is down on both 120 VAC and on propane, look for obstructions in the air flow in the area behind the refrigerator. Start by checking for insect, bird or animal nests in the vent areas. If you have had this problem every time the ambient temperature is high/you park with the refrigerator side of the coach in the sun, pull out your Dometic manual and read about recommended side and top clearances. Too much clearance above the refrigerator WILL diminish cooling. Also, installation in a slide out where the hot air has to vent to the side rather than out the roof does lead to diminished performance. Often one has to install 2 small 12 VDC muffin fans at the top of the coils to exhaust hot air OUT. And always remember, the refrigerator PC board runs on 12 VDC, so if the batteries are low, don't expect the refrigerator to perform properly. Brett Wolfe

Montie, The secret for first-timers is to start slow in lower gears (use Allison down arrow). Lots easier to speed up (up arrow and lightly touch throttle for 2 seconds so the transmission up-shifts and/or toggle off the engine brake momentarily) than it is to be going too fast and HAVE to slow down. If speed starts to rise (you are above equilibrium speed=neither speeding up nor slowing down), use the service brakes to slow you down enough to down arrow to the next lower gear. You should be able to descend up to about an 8% grade (steeper than all but a handful of highway grades) BUT may be at 20 mph in 2nd gear. Obviously, the lighter your GCW and the more braking HP your engine has the steeper the grade you can take at higher speeds and still remain at equilibrium speed . Never fear going too slow. The loaded 18 wheelers WILL POSITIVELY be slower than you and everyone in smaller vehicles who has ever driven in the mountains KNOWS that trucks descend SLOWLY. Brett Wolfe

Steve, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. We have driven that route several times on the way to/from the FMCA Conventions in Redmond-- both the section from the west side of the mountains to Redmond and from Redmond on to I84. You don't give information on your rig or whether you are comfortable with "technical" driving. Kind of hard to give advice when one may have an overloaded gas rig pulling a 5000 pound toad or DP with effective engine brake. I would classify this as a "moderate" drive. Certainly not for novices with marginal rigs, but easily doable by those with good rigs with some mountain driving experience. Let us know what rig you have and whether you have done mountain driving and we can give you better advice. Brett Wolfe

The grease zerks on your coach ARE the same as those on a truck or car. And as suggested, a flex hose is often much easier to use than a straight metal extension. But, check in your chassis owners manual to verify that the grease you have in there meets the MIL specs for your RV chassis. The chances are it will. And on oil change interval why not go with the manufacturers change interval. If you want to "treat" your engine, switch to a synthetic and stick with the dino change interval. Brett Wolfe

I am sure someone with a National DP will post information here, but there are two other organizations (both FMCA chapters) that may interest you: The Caterpillar RV Engine Owners Club (aka Cat RV Club): Cat RV Club Website Freightliner Chassis Owners Club: FCOC Website Both clubs are a great `combination of shared technical information AND social gatherings. I am very familiar with the Cat RV Club, having served three terms as their President. So if you have any questions, I will be happy to address them. Not having a Freightliner chassis, we are not that familiar with that club.

The "Chemical-based absorbers ARE fine for closets and small areas, but you do have to dry them out periodically. Said another way, they will only absorb so much (measured in ounces or pints TOTAL capacity). That is why the "real" dehumidifiers that are compressor driven are so much better if you store in a humid climate with access to shore power. Our LG dehumidifier (from Home Depot for under $200) removes 35 pints PER DAY. What happens in an RV-sized space is that it runs for a couple of hours and removes 1-2 quarts, then runs less than 10% of the time, since there is no outside source of moisture. We just set ours on the galley counter and it drains into the sink/gray tank. Brett Wolfe

Just got through installing a Roadmaster base plate on a 2008 Ford Focus. Boy, it us sure nice to be able to go down the instruction sheet and have everything WORK. And 3 pages of color photos, so you KNOW where bolt A goes into hole B. NO, guys they weren't dirty pictures-- well maybe a little grease on them by the time I got finished. There have been some mis-information on this car as a toad, some of the mis-information directly from Ford. So, after just hearing back from Ford Technical: Weight of the 2008 and 2009 Focus Coupe is 2588 pounds. 2623 for the four door. Long wheelbase for a compact car for better tracking: 102.9" Manual transmission models are towable 4 wheels down with NO limit on miles or speed. IMPORTANT: the 2008 and 2009 Owners Manuals are INCORRECT when it comes to key position to unlock the steering column for towing. Page 150 of the 2008 Focus owners manual says: Turn the key in the ignition to the OFF position.. THIS IS INCORRECT-- THE MANUAL WAS NOT UPDATED TO REFLECT THE REDESIGNED STEERING COLUMN ON THE 2008 AND 2009 MODELS. THE CORRECT KEY POSITION FOR TOWING IS IN POSITION 2 WHICH IS ACCESSORY POSITION. Brett Wolfe

Your Allison transmission should not overheat while climbing unless you allow the transmission to "hunt". Hunting is the repeated shifting back and forth between two gears because you can not pull the grade in the higher gear, but the next lower one is low enough to allow you to accelerate to where it up-shifts-- process repeated over and over. Because the torque converter is locked in the Allison transmission, there is no slippage which is the prime cause of heat in some transmissions (particularly older ones without lock-up converters). Yes, transmission temp will go up a little, as the transmission cooler on the vast majority of coaches is in the radiator. So when engine temp goes up a little, so does transmission temp. And the advice is good-- if temps rise, use the "down arrow" to select a lower gear to raise engine RPM's and back off the throttle. But normally you will notice a rise in engine temperature long before a rise in transmission temperature. BTW, to keep the transmission from hunting, you also use the "down arrow" to lock the transmission in the lower gear. When the grade eases to allow use of a higher gear, just hit the "up arrow" or "D". And feel free to use the up and down arrows and "mode" as much as you want. You can NOT harm the transmission. Even hitting the down arrow 4 times at 65 MPH will do no harm-- in fact, that is EXACTLY what happens when you hit the exhaust brake if you have a 2nd gear pre-select. The transmisson ECU KNOWS that the command is to "downshift one gear at a time in such a way that engine RPM's are kept in a pre-determined safe range until the pre-selected gear is reached". Leaving the transmission in economy mode and using the up and down arrows gives you all the control of a manual transmission (only without a clutch). Do you need to do this, NO. But you CAN do it to more precisely control the transmission. After all, the transmission is REactive, seeing what happened well behind you. You can be PROactive, seeing ahead of you that you are about to top a grade or begin up a 7% grade. Glad you enjoyed your first trip in the mountains. Brett Wolfe

Steve, I like the concept of an adjustable "correct to center" for side wind or excessive cambered roads built into a steering dampener, but have not personally tested one. What are the return to center forces compared with, say the SafeTPlus? There is certainly a place for steering dampeners/return to center devices. BUT, I suspect many are sold as band-aids to "correct" other suspension problems that perhaps should be addressed first/instead. I wish there were a "silver bullet" to correct suspension issues. but my years in vehicle maintenance suggest that no such thing exists. Best answer is to start with the basics and only after making sure things like tire pressure, alignment, shocks, suspension components, etc are to specifications do you start looking for after-market solutions. And indeed there are quite a few that DO make a significant improvement over Original Equipment. Let's face it, just as in every other aspect of an RV (or any other product for that matter), manufacturers looked for cost cutting on chassis and suspension content. That leaves room for improvement in many chassis. Brett Wolfe

Ron, What are you trying to achieve? The aftermarket chips that I am aware of do NOT increase torque-- it stays 860 lb-ft @ 1,440 RPM. You will also need to verify that your coach's cooling system was OVERdesigned enough to accommodate the added heat load that goes along with burning more fuel to make more HP. You will need to check on its effect on Caterpillar's warranty and on the EPA certification. Before considering any HP boost, please read this Caterpillar document VERY carefully: Understanding Coach (RV) Performance Page 7 shows the huge increase in HP at the rear wheels (even more engine HP) needed to increase speed on a 6% grade by even 10 MPH. And if the expense of the chip and other negative elements won't do that...... An example from page 7: for a 34,000 GCW coach/toad to climb that 6% grade at 45 MPH requires 310 HP AT THE REAR WHEELS (every bit of that produced by a 350 HP C7 engine). For the same rig, same grade to go 55 MPH requires 402 HP AT THE REAR WHEELS. This is well past what even a radical chip can do. I am not suggesting not looking into it, but PLEASE consider the pluses and minuses and more than anything, set reasonable expectations for what it will do for you. Most find that going 4-5 MPH faster the few times they are on a 6% grade is not worth the effort. Brett Wolfe

Montie, I'll send you a private message-- will be glad for you to give me a call and I can walk you through this. None of it is complicated. Hate to see you spend money until the free or very inexpensive things are done. THEN, you can make a more considered decision, knowing that you have covered the other bases. I know it sounds more complicated, but just looking for a "silver bullet" to solve suspension issues is rarely a success without verifying all components are working as they should. I just did a mechanical inspection on a coach on Friday. Complaint of wandering. Turned out it was a worn drag link-- you could move it over 1.5" side to side by hand! He could have spent a lot of $$ on aftermarket items and still not solved his problem. You don't mention the year model of the chassis, but quite a lot of this chassis information is available on this Freightliner Website: Freightliner Chassis Specs for Fleetwood products Brett

Montie, Most of us are justifiably reluctant to give suspension advice without knowing what chassis they are dealing with and what condition some of the components are in. What chassis do you have? How many miles on it? Wheelbase if you know it? Are shocks OE, and do you know what kind you have? Any leaking or play in the bushings? Are the factory sway bar (front and rear-- IF FIT) end links (polyurethane or rubber) in good shape with no play? If you have wheel position weights or axle weights, post that along with the GAWR from the plaque near the driver's area. How are the tires and are they inflated per tire manufacturers recommendations BASED ON YOUR ACTUAL WEIGHTS plus perhaps 5 PSI as a safety reserve? The more information you provide, the better the advice. The handling of many chassis IS improved by going to a sway bar or a stiffer sway bar, but let's make sure they are where you need to start to improve your handling-- could be that there are free or inexpensive things you can do to improve it before or along with going to a stiffer sway bar. BTW I have Roadmaster sway bars on the front and rear of our coach and they DO help reduce sway. Brett Wolfe