wolfe10

You could have a solenoid/switch, though I have never seen one in that application on a Class A. Check with Gulfstream. Clearly, you should be able to suck gasoline through the fuel line from the generator end with no or little resistance. And if the generator fuel pump will pump fuel from a can on the ground, it will pump it from a "higher" source as it requires less head pressure. Brett Wolfe

Rick, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. From your description (starts [my assumption] and runs fine from external fuel source), it sounds like you have isolated the problem to the fuel system. If you have a transmission pump or other suction source, clamp a length of clear plastic hose on the generator end of the fuel line from main tank. Suck on it and verify that you have an bubble-free stream of fuel. Check for kinks and loose hose clamps on newer RV's. Add check for cracked hose allowing air into the line on older ones. Brett Wolfe

Excellent description, Tom. And I will add, our HWH sensor has spring loaded adjustment screws, so these fine adjustments are easy-- no lock nuts or complex "7 hands needed" arrangement. Particularly if your level sensor is in an area where it could get hit and knocked out of adjustment, VERIFY your level with a real level or the "door moving" technique. Tom's procedure will fix it in a few minutes and at no cost if it needs adjustment. Brett Wolfe

Bill, If it is one of the "smart" inverter/chargers, be sure to run through the programming steps (in the old days it was called "setting the dip switches" as you physically had to move small switches). On most units, this programming is done from the inverter remote. These things are smart enough to REALLY do a good job if(and only if) you "tell them what you need". Programmable issues include: Battery bank size (in amp-hrs): A charger programmed to charge a 120 amp-hr battery bank would not work well on a 400 amp-hr bank and visa versa. Type of battery: Wet cell, AGM or gel. Each is different. Temperature: Many allow you to tell them ambient temps (wide range) if programmed for winter and run that way in the summer it WILL overcharge the batteries. All this information should be in your inverter/charger's owners manual. Brett Wolfe

Good answers. Protection packages are basically dealer additional profit items. You could Scotchgard the interior yourself and have the exterior waxed annually for a long time for that price. And you have to decide your risk tolerance level when it comes to Service Policies (not really warranties). Reality says there is enough profit in it (i.e. people pay more in than they get out) to pay the dealer and Service Policy Company a profit. Particularly if you are handy so repairs would generally cost "parts only" it may not make sense for you. If you like the security of knowing your costs up front, it may be a good idea. BUT read the fine print carefully. Many have disclaimers that eliminate many repairs one may expect to be covered. Example: Some policies exclude gaskets, yet oil leaks, etc are one of the more common failures. Brett Wolfe

Bill, Good idea. Ours came mounted from the factory under the refrigerator in the middle of the coach. I totally agree, that anyone doing design work on ANYTHING should spend at least a month using it! And if you think few RV designers use their products, the problem is many times worse on boats. VERY few of those who design boats actually sail them-- not talking about naval architects, but the people who design interiors, deck layouts, etc. But, some of the more forward thinking companies (RV and marine) do solicit owner input and even conduct owner "focus groups" when doing major redesigns. Brett Wolfe

Bill, What inverter do you have? Then we will KNOW whether it is a sine wave or MSW. Brett Wolfe

Bill, What converter, charger or inverter charger do you have? What is voltage at the battery when charging? If smart charger, what is voltage at float stage (after charging for over 24 hours)? Why would you ever have it set to NOT charge all the time you are on 120 VAC, and at the proper voltage (assuming your charger or inverter/charger is programmable)? The only exception would be times that your 120 VAC shore power is not adequate to supply charger and you other 120 VAC appliances . (i.e. you are plugged into less than 50 amps and yet want to run lots of appliances). Brett Wolfe

Welcome to the FMCA Forum. The pressure switch controls pump cut-in and cut-out. It is part of the pump assembly`on most pumps including the Shurflo 2.8 which is the common pump. You may be able to replace it instead of the whole pump. A small piece of debris in the switch (sand, mineral deposit, building debris, etc) can get into the very small pressure switch orifice and cause it to NOT cut off. Does you pump have a screen on the intake side of the pump? If so, any dirt in it? Minimize dirt and sand in the potable water system ON ANY COACH by installing a FINE SEDIMENT ONLY filter on the incoming water. We use a 5 micron sediment only filter from Home Depot. Replacement cartridges are under $5. Do NOT use a charcoal filter on water going into the potable water tank-- removing Chlorine and THEN storing it is not safe. A charcoal filter on the pressure side of the system is fine as the Chlorine is removed just before use. Brett Wolfe

Yes, a detergent will help. As will driving with 15 or so gallons of clean water in the tank-- not as much "cleaning action" as ice, but with macerator-based toilets, you have no practical way to get ice in the tank. Another option, particularly if you suspect a buildup of solids is to use Rid-X or other biological product for septic tanks along with water in the tank to break down the solids. These work best when you are storing the unit, as they work over time. But expecting tank gauges with internal sensors to always be accurate may be setting too high an expectation. Brett Wolfe

Most likely issue is a tank gauge that is not reading accurately. This is a VERY common occurrence. To minimize this (not eliminate it) you can do several things: 1. Only drain the tank when it is more than 1/2 full (unless getting ready to hit the road). If you drain with less than 1/2 tank, add water with flush system or through one of the heads. 2. After draining, add at least 5 gallons of water, so waste can not fall into a dry tank. To clean tank sensors: 1. After draining and rinsing, add 15 gallons of water. Right before you are ready to hit the road, flush 20 pounds of ice down the toilet (assuming it is not a macerator-based toilet). The idea is to get the ice as is into the tank. The ice will slosh around while driving and clean the sensors and tank. 2. You can also add a few ounces of Dawn dishwashing detergent and drive with that in the tank. Brett Wolfe

I can't help with the heat pump part of that, but last year we switched out original Colemans for 2 Carrier low profile A/C's and are happy with the switch. Brett Wolfe

Sorry, don't know that area of the country. But, very important -- YOU need to tell them exactly what your engine's oil capacity is. Do not assume they will know or take the time to look it up. Overfilling the crankcase on diesels is a common cause of oil on the back of the coach/front of the toad. You might also read the "Calibrating the Dipstick" post under "Engines" here in the FMCA Forum. Here is a Caterpillar Corp document that will give you the facts on your engine: http://ohe.cat.com/cda/files/517742/7/LEHT...m=72021&x=7 Also, just my opinion, but I would also suggest you choose an oil and stick with that oil from here forward. Different oils use different additive packages to achieve the desired properties. Less possibility of issues if you stick with the same oil. Brett Wolfe

Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Debris in the fuel system would not be a warranty item, so contacting your engine manufacturer would likely do little good. If the shop pays techs by the "flag" hour there will be notations on the dealer copy of the work order showing how much diagnostic time was spent identifying this problem. So I would start by talking with the Service Manager and have him explain the bill. If not satisfied, contact the General Manager or owner of the dealership. Taking a rational, non-emotional approach with them generally gives much better results. You are just looking for an explanation. As a future note, do you have both a PRIMARY and SECONDARY fuel filter? If so, the PRIMARY fuel filter is generally located between the fuel tank and fuel pump and should protect it from debris. If you don't have this filter arrangement, consider adding one! Brett Wolfe

Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Best advice is to pull out your Generator Owners Manual. Second best is to give Onan a call on Monday/go to Onan's website. Too easy for us to do an inadequate job of describing their location and lead you to a REALLY BIG problem. Brett Wolfe

As long as the transmission is not "hunting" (repeatedly up/down shifting between higher and lower gear) YES. Brett Wolfe

Your refrigerator and RV were designed to safely run your refrigerator on propane while on the road. And unless you turn of propane OFF AT THE TANK, the added risk of the tiny flame in the refrigerator is minimal. You WILL put additional strain on the alternator. The more output demanded, the more heat they produce (like all mechanical devices, they are not 100% efficient). Were this a DP with a 190 amp or larger alternator it would make a little more sense, but only a little. Brett Wolfe

Yes, as we have discussed several times, a complete "Burner Area Tune-up" is REQUIRED Preventive Maintenance for any absorption refrigerator. It needs to be done annually or sooner if the refrigerator is not performing properly on propane. Only after doing the complete tune-up should you look at other causes of poor performance on propane. Brett Wolfe

Because warranty is an important part of a new car purchase, the BEST source for reliable information is the HONDA OWNERS MANUAL. Not a salesman, but read the manual itself. Even if someone has successfully towed one, but Honda does not recommend it, it will void your warranty an quite a number of vehicle components. In that light, any Honda dealer is a good source. Brett Wolfe

If I were going to park it for awhile, I would change it BEFORE storing. If not, keep driving until the one year mark/mileage specified for your engine. Brett Wolfe

If, as Tom suggests, that question is directed at me-- yes, I would do it again. They are easy to install (peel and stick with template for spacing). Painting is also easy with FUSION paint. I found a green that was a perfect match for our coach. And I use the same long-bristle wash brush on them as on the rest of the coach. Brett Wolfe

Tom, Yes, we have had Air Tabs on our coach for a couple of years. Ours are white with FUSION paint to match the coach. They do function as advertisedâ€"the physics is well-proven. The two websites I posted above make good reading. The error I feel their detractors make is to expect silver bullet that will correct all the aerodynamic ills of their coach. NO device will do that. What the Air Tabs will do is improve: 1. Handling, particularly in cross wind and passing 18 wheelers. 2. Reduce dirt accumulation on back of coach and toad. 3. Give SLIGHT improvement in MPG. Their website only claims 3-4% and I suspect that is accurate. With the differing terrain (flat when we head east and mountains when we head west), differing head winds, etc all I can say is that our annual MPG is up slightly since adding the Air Tabs. As a side note: Sometimes it is easy to take modern technology for granted. We are in the middle of the Gulf of Mexico on the Carnival Conquest on the way from Galveston to Jamaica with a satellite Wi-Fi connection back to the rest of the world. Brett Wolfe

Here are two fact-based articles on AirTabs and their Website: http://www.sti.nasa....ff2008/t_3.html http://airtab.com/vm/newvisual/attachments...eNowArticle.pdf Brett Wolfe

Veronica, Yes, a toilet "burping back" is normally a symptom of a defective vent. The vent pipe to the roof may be blocked by insect, animal or bird nest. The vent pipe may have fallen too deep in the tank and be below tank content level, etc. If safe, go up on the roof and blow down the vent. Verify that there is no back pressure and have someone near the black tank verify that you are not "bubbling" below content level. Brett Wolfe

Greg, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. I would agree 5.7 MPG is low. Questions: 1. Is your speedometer/odometer accurate (vs GPS or Interstate mile makers)? 2. Are you "subtracting for fuel used by the generator? 3. What is your GCW (Gross Combined Weight-- loaded RV plus toad? 4. Flat ground or hills/mountains? 5. Regular or economy mode on Allison? 6. How fast do you drive? As you can see, there are a LOT of variables when it comes to MPG. And 9-10 MPG AVERAGE (not one tank) would be FANTASTIC-- bordering on EXCEPTIONAL for your friend's/ANYONE'S late model heavy coach. Brett Wolfe