wolfe10

John, There are several things working to shorten the life of your refrigerator. The more of them you address, the longer it will likely live. Cooling system rust through. In a humid climate, less condensation forms on the metal coils and therefore less rust if the unit is ON (coils stay well above the dew point). Rust in flue and burner is reduced for the same reason if the unit is ON. Insect nests in burner tube, flue and even the open areas of the cooling unit are discouraged if the unit is ON. There are no moving parts in an absorption refrigerator, so you are not "wearing anything out" by leaving it ON. Conclusion, particularly if stored in a humid climate is leave it ON. Our original Dometic installed by Foretravel in 1992 finally died (cooling unit leak) early this year after running continuously for over 16 years. If you live in and store it in the desert, or at a place where you don't want to leave it on, be sure to open the freezer and refrigerator doors and if for a long time, get some fine-mesh nylon screen and cover the roof and side vents to keep insects out. Do NOT leave the fine-mesh screen on when running, it really reduces air flow that is necessary for proper refrigerator function. Brett Wolfe

So, where are you headed. Tell us what kind of things ya'll (you will have to get used to "Southern Talk" if you want to enjoy the "weather an orange tree is happy with") like to do. Perhaps we can offer suggestions on places to visit. We will probably move the discussion to "Destinations" if we get many replies on "where to go," leaving the technical discussion here. Brett Wolfe

Welcome to the FMCA Forum. I will address a couple of your questions. Many DO winterize their coach and leave it winterized for the first day or so they are on the road headed for "Warm Country" leaving it winterized until they are south of the freezing temperatures. That way you KNOW you are OK. Just carry jugs of water to use for a day or two. If temps get REALLY cold, pour a couple of gallons of RV antifreeze in the holding tanks. With a little flexibility in your departure schedule, you can sure hit above freezing temps in 1.5-2 days of driving. Come on down to where the orange trees are happy (S Texas, Arizona or Florida). And yes, the propane furnace (more efficient) or heat pump (from generator) can be used while traveling to keep you warm. If your basement heat is from the propane furnace, that is fine too. If from other source, let us know what you have-- some others are also safe while on the road. But, if you rely on it in well-below freezing temperatures, make sure it heats ALL plumbing including dump valves. Getting the snow off the roof depends somewhat on what material covers the roof . You have to be a LOT more careful with rubber roofs than fiberglass. Best to start with a broom. If it is heavy snow, you may need one with stiff bristles. Brett Wolfe

The FMCA Forum makes it easy to search for any other members' TOPICS or POSTS. On the upper left of a member's post, scroll over their NAME (wolfe10 in my case). You will see a "down arrow" appear when you scroll over their name. CLICK on it. Scroll down to "Find Member's Topics" or, if you want to view all of a member's posts, to "Find Member's Posts." CLICK on it. That will bring up a list of that member's TOPICS or POSTS starting with the most recent first.

YES, if you don't have to plug your shore power cord into an outlet powered by the generator for the coach to operate on the generator, you have an ATS (Automatic Transfer Switch). Locate it by following the shore power cord from where it plugs into coach "downstream" toward the coach breaker box OR follow generator 120 VAC output and it will lead to the same location. Same for following the 120 VAC line from 120 VAC breaker box "upstream" toward generator/shore power. With all power off INCLUDING AN INVERTER, they are not difficult to replace if you are SAFE WORKING WITH 120 VAC CIRCUITS. Before replacement, with all power off, remove the lid and check for loose connections. Brett Wolfe

Mike, The FMCA Forum makes it easy to search for any other member's TOPICS or POSTS. On the upper left of a member's post, scroll over their NAME (wolfe 10 in my case). You will see a "down arrow" appear when you scroll over their name. CLICK on it. Scroll down to "Find Member's Topics" or if you want to view all of a member's posts to "Find Member's Posts". CLICK on it. That will bring up a list of that member's TOPICS or POSTS starting with the most recent at the top. Brett Wolfe

Cathe, Though, clearly there other causes of engine failure, this is one that does affect the Cummins ISL. This MAY be the issue with your engine: NHTSA Campaign Number: 07E033000 Vehicle/Equipment Make: CUMMINS Vehicle/Eqipment Model: ISL CM850 Model Year: n/a Mfg Campaign Number: Mfg Component Desc: ENGINE AND ENGINE COOLING:ENGINE:DIESEL Mfg Involved in Recall: CUMMINS, INC. Manufacture Dates: Type of Report: (E) Vehicle Potential # of Units Affected: 2,159 Date Owner Notified by Mfg: 07-20-07 Recall Initiated By: MFR Mfg Responsible for Recall: CUMMINS, INC. Report Recieved Date: 06-04-07 Record Creation Date: 06-08-07 Regulation Part Number: FMVSS Number: Defect Summary: CERTAIN ISL CUMMINS CM850 DIESEL ENGINES PRODUCED FOR RECREATIONAL VEHICLE APPLICATIONS BETWEEN OCTOBER 17, 2005, AND APRIL 18, 2006, WITH ENGINE SERIAL NUMBER RANGE FROM 46543077 TO 46603939. THE CONNECTING ROD CONTAINS A MACHINING DEFECT IN THE WRIST PIN BUSHING OF THE ROD THAT COULD CAUSE SEIZURE OF THE PISTON PIN. Consequence Summary: IF ALLOWED TO PROGRESS, THIS COULD LEAD TO ENGINE FAILURE WITH THE POSSIBILITY OF THE ROD RUPTURING THE BLOCK CAVITY. OIL AND DEBRIS ON THE ROADWAY COULD RESULT IN A VEHICLE CRASH. Corrective Summary: EACH VEHICLE MANUFACTURER WILL NOTIFY OWNERS OF VEHICLES THAT CONTAIN THESE ENGINES ABOUT THIS DEFECT. CUMMINS WILL CONDUCT THE REMEDY CAMPAIGN AND PROVIDE QUARTERLY COMPLETION REPORTS BROKEN DOWN BY VEHICLE MANUFACTURER; HOWEVER THE VEHICLE MANUFACTURERS WILL BE RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RECALL. VEHICLES WILL BE REPAIRED AT NO COST TO THE OWNER. THE RECALL BEGAN ON JULY 20, 2007. OWNERS CAN CONTACT EITHER THEIR VEHICLE MANUFACTURER OR CUMMINS CUSTOMER ASSISTANCE CENTER AT 1-800-343-7357.

IF this works, it is generally a short-lived fix. The coolant (water, ammonia and rust inhibitor) can crystallize when run out of level. This blocks the flow of "coolant" through the cooling unit causing the "my refrigerator is not cooling" condition. Turning the refrigerator upside down MAY dislodge the blockage, but it does not dissolve the crystals and it is very likely to "re-block" the cooling unit. Brett Wolfe

Mike, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Two different answers-- dependent on whether your engine coolant temperature is OK or if you are starting to overheat. If coolant temperature is not a problem, Caterpillar's recommendation in writing for max MPG is to allow the engine to lug down to peak torque RPM before downshifting. That is 1,440 RPM for your engine. And economy mode should be programmed to do just that-- shift down when you are heavy into the throttle and RPM drops to 1,440 (or a little above). Said another way, the Allison ECU is programmed to do what Caterpillar recommends. Obivously, if a few more miles an hour up that hill are important to you (AND you are willing to pay for the drop in fuel mileage) downshift, raise engine RPM and you will go a FEW MPH faster. For an excellent discussion of performance and MPG, read this Caterpillar Corp document (makes good reading irrespective of what brand engine you have-- physics is physics): Understanding Coach (RV) Performance If coolant temps start to rise, raising engine RPM (and backing out of the throttle a little) will lower engine temperatures. It takes XX HP to go up a hill at YY speed. And producing that HP produces a certain heat load. If the engine is turning over at 2,100 RPM instead of, say, 1500 RPM, the water pump and fan are turning a lot faster and can dissipate a lot more heat load. Also, be sure to read this thread to reduce overheating: http://community.fmca.com/index.php?showtopic=288 Brett Wolfe

Bill, Weighing the risk of danger from traveling with propane on (with appliances designed to be used on the road like you have) VS the risk of food poisoning if you turn of the refrigerator when traveling, hands down, you are more at risk from food poisoning. Run them on propane, or if that bothers you, on an inverter (assuming you will not over-tax the alternator). Brett Wolfe

Patrick, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. I am not familiar with the Tyron Bands-- in fact this is the first time I have heard of them. However, Michelin has an EXCELLENT video John Anderson helped them make on handling blowouts in a Diesel Pusher. For a free viewing, go to: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CseABfJL1FM ON EDIT: Thanks to jleamont, for posting the updated link-- changed since posted 5+ years ago. THIS IS A MUST-VIEW FOR ANYONE DRIVING A MOTORHOME. Brett Wolfe

Two ways to find out: Call your chassis maker (Freightliner, I suspect). Start at the filter you see in the very back of the coach. One line will come from the fuel tank (disappear into the frame rail forward). Trace the other line. It may go directly to lift pump/engine or through lift pump and then to SECONDARY FILTER. You can also raise the bed and look on the passenger's side of the engine for a secondary fuel filter. If you find it, see if there is a manual primer pump at the top of the secondary filter housing (knurl nut 1-2" in diameter). It is CRITICAL that you find out, as the filter you see will be VERY different if one vs two filter system. With one filter system, that filter you see HAS to be 2 micron. With a two filter system, the Primary filter (the one you see in the back) will be either 10 or 30 micron and the Secondary filter closer to the engine will be 2 micron.

Pete, I totally agree. On all diesel engine built before January 1, 2007, the crankcase vents to atmosphere. You want that moist, oily vapor to exit BEHIND the fan shroud (intake for cooling system). You don't have to run it all the way to the back of the coach to achieve this, but clearly need it extended to behind the fan shroud. I will repeat the caution I posted in the initial post on this subject: "And make sure the crankcase breather (1" ID open hose on most Caterpillar engines) is extended to behind the air intake (shroud) for the cooling system. Also verify that the extension ONLY goes downhill from the engine (no dip loop or sag) or you could do serious engine damage in cold weather. One of the byproducts of combustion is water vapor which can freeze if allowed to collect in the extension and if it blocked the whole tube BAD NEWS." Brett Wolfe

Robert, The critical question is did you just store it "out of level" or did you run it out of level. If it was run out of level, it is quite likely that the cooling unit has enough blockage that it (or refrigerator) will have to be replaced. "Out of level" specs are stated in your refrigerator owners manal and vary a little, but basically boil down to "if YOU as a human recognize an out of level condition walking in the interor, it is out of level enough to affect the refrigeator cooling unit" All absorption refrigerators have a warning against running out of level for this very reason. Factors to consider in making the decision between cooling system replacement and refrigerator replacement are AGE OF REFRIGERATOR and whether you can/will do the labor to change out the cooling unit or will be paying someone to do it. Brett Wolfe

Mark's article doesn't really detail what he means by "cover." He could be referring to storing under cover or a cover fitted over the RV. Here is what he says, "Keep it covered: Over time the roof and exterior of your motorhome begin to show signs of wear, caused by constant exposure to the elements. Ozone in the air and ultraviolet (UV) rays from the sun start to take their toll, which is first evident by signs of fading paint. The ozone in the air also causes products like rubber and vinyl to dry out, crack and start to deteriorate. The UV rays from the sun make this aging process happen quicker. If possible, try to keep your RV covered when not using it, to help protect it from Mother Nature." I am also cautious about recommending RV covers, as the can do a lot of damage from chafe, particularly if stored in a windy area. The money spend on a cover and even factoring in minimum wage for your time in putting on the cover and taking it off each time you use it would go a long ways toward paying for a covered area under which to store the coach. I think all of us agree that storing it UNDER COVER is by far the best. Even if you spend extra money building a covered parking area or pay extra for covered storage, most of that investment will be returned by have a better looking coach AND one that has higher resale than one left out in the elements. Brett Wolfe

Pete, If you don't get a quick answer from someone here who has removed theirs, give Winnebago customer service a call. They WILL know. Brett Wolfe

I think the willingness of the State Truck Enforcement Division/DOT to weigh has less to do with the state than the individual you talk with and how it is presented. Asking the "head guy" if you can bring your coach to THEIR LOCATION at the beginning or end of a shift change to get individual wheel position weights usually gives positive results. Most are impressed that someone is interested in operating their coach safely. Brett Wolfe

First thing is determine IF you you have a fan clutch. Access the fan from below or from above (bedroom). With engine off and cold, grab the a fan blade and try to turn it. If you can't, you have a direct drive fan (no clutch). If it turns relatively easily, you have a fan clutch. And if overheating, the best thing to do is to pull over in a safe place, place the transmission in neutral and raise the RPM to 1500 or so. Do NOT shut the engine down hot unless the above procedure produces even higher engine temperatures. Note: Thermostats DO stick and could give your symptoms-- work fine most of the time, but "hang up" once in a while. They are inexpensive and easy to replace. I would do that as preventive maintenance. Lastly, with a rear radiator, you need to check for blockage of the after-cooler (what you see when you look inside the fan shroud/between fan blades-- easiest from ABOVE (bedroom or closet depending on layout). With a strong flashlight, verify that the perimeter is as clean as the center (the fan blades "sling" the dirt to the perimeter). This will not cause intermittent overheating, but will reduce effective area of the cooling system, so it is more prone to overheating under heavy throttle conditions. Brett Wolfe

Bill, My recommendation would be to call KVH. Tell them what inverter you have (MSW) and your symptoms and ask (1) IF this is abnormal and (2) IF IT IS, whether the MSW inverter could be the cause. They are the best ones to trouble-shoot their system. Brett Wolfe

Short answer is "They MAY". Correct answer is that you VERIFY the correct filters by part numbers. I would call Freightliner (Gaffney) and get the part numbers for your correct PRIMARY and SECONDARY or ONLY filter (single filter systems), request those when you go in for service and verify them before leaving. As I said above, here is the concern: Go into a Freightliner dealer and ask the parts guy for a fuel filter element for a Freightliner motorhome chassis. If the last 4 filter elements that parts guy sold were for the two filter system, IT IS QUITE LIKELY THAT HE WILL JUST HAND YOU A 10 OR 30 MICRON ELEMENT-- it will fit. YOU WILL BE SPENDING BIG BUCKS TO GET THE "ROCKS" OUT OF THE INJECTORS-- ACTUALLY YOU WILL BE REPLACING THEM. By the same token, if you have the two filter system and the last 4 filter elements he sold were for the single filter system, it is quite likely that he will just hand you a 2 micron element. Almost as bad. You now have a two micron element followed by another 2 micron element. The first will clog up quickly and the second will get a "free ride". The less ASSUMING and more VERIFYING you do, the better your likelihood of doing the proper maintenance. You will find it easiest to compile a list of fuel filter part numbers, oil filter part numbers, belt numbers all on one quick reference page and use that when you go in for parts. Check with Freightliner, they have have just such a list for your chassis. Brett Wolfe

Don, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. In a word, YES. 11 year old tires are well past replacement! Then, after loading the coach the way you will be driving down the road, get all wheel positions weighted (best) or axles weighed (easier, but ASSUMES perfect side to side weight distribution) and go to your tire manufacturer's PSI/load chart for your tire to determine correct MINIMUM PSI. If using wheel position weights, use heavier side on each axle to go to the chart. Add 5 PSI to the minimum for safety cushion. If you only have axle weights, add 10 PSI (as long as it doesn't exceed tire or wheel maximum) for safety reserve AND side to side imbalance. Unlike car tires, large vehicle tires correct pressure is VERY load dependent and can cover a RANGE of 40 or so PSI. And when purchasing the new ones, be sure to get ones that are no more than 3 months old, as you will likely be replacing them based on time, not tread wear. Brett Wolfe

See TBUTLER's post above in this thread. Brett Wolfe

Good thought. Many marginal refrigerator performance issues ARE related to air flow over the cooling unit. That would make them more efficient in most applications, as many RV manufacturers play "loose" with the refrigerator ventilation specs, BUT: 1. It would make them more expensive. 2. It would make their external dimensions larger, so more difficult to get in and out when retro-fitting in existing coaches and would likely make some existing refrigerator areas too small for the "deeper" dimensions. 3. The enclosures should be as light as possible, since their only job is routing air driven by convection or at most two small fans-- so easily damaged in shipping or installation if fit to the heavy refrigerator. And one of the biggest "NO-NO's" is a gap at the top of the refrigerator. Since RV manufacturers use different designs for the height of the refrigerator space and whether in coach or slide, etc. I can't see how the refrigerator manufacturer could know whether to make the "above the refrigerator" panel 1" OR 10". In short, IMO, the RV makers need to assume more responsibility for adhering to appliance manufacturer specs. And many do. Brett Wolfe

Same rules in our coach. If you are seated, you are belted in. And you are seated unless the driver determines conditions are safe for someone to "move about" to potty or quick errand. Brett Wolfe

Tom, I totally agree. Here is an excerpt from my first post: If you have a transmission pump or other suction source, clamp a length of clear plastic hose on the generator end of the fuel line from main tank. Suck on it and verify that you have an bubble-free stream of fuel. Brett Wolfe