wildebill308

Where are you starting from and planned route to Denver? Bill

I stay outside the parks and drive the toad into the parks. The only exception was at The Grand Canyon where I was able to get into their RV Village in the park. Now back to your trip. Hear is the rout I used last summer (in reverse order) From Denver I used I76 to Sterling then 138/19 to Sidney and stay at the Cabelas RV park at their flagship store /world headquarters. Then take 385 to 79 to Rapid City. When you are done there take 90 west The Bighorn Battlefield. From there continue West on 90 to Livingston MT I then went south on 89 to Yellowstone. We stayed at Yellowstone's Edge RV Park. From there drove the toad into the park. You could relocate south of Yellowstone for easier access to the Tetons. I don't have any experience there. To go to Glacier I would head west from Yellowstone on 90 to just West of Missoula where 93 heads north to Glacier Good place to stop is Bob & Mary's RV park at the 93 exit. Here is contact info for most of the places: Near The Bighorn Battlefield 7th Ranch RV Camp I-90 S Exit ,514 Reno Creek Rd, Garryowen, MT 59031,(406) 638-2438 Yellowstone's Edge RV Park, 3502 US-89, Livingston, MT 59047, (406) 333-4036 Jim & Mary's RV Park, 9800 US-93, Missoula, MT 59808, (406) 549-4416 Bill

Just my opinion but if you are going to Denver I would go to Mount Rushmore/Crazy Horse area before going to Yellowstone. Don't forget the Custer Battlefield in between Rushmore and Yellowstone. Bill

ObedB, Come on down to Texas there is a reason they are building big wind farms hear. That little run I made from Fort Worth to Pharr Texas, it's only 497 miles, had us running in wind gust over 50 mph. That wasn't to bad as sometimes the wind blows hard. On the way home I ran into the last big sleet and ice storm temps went from 70 to 23. Had to spend a couple of days letting the storm wind down and the roads to clear. Brett, I would like to see 10mpg and will let you know after my next trip. We are going East/North this summer. The roads back east are not as easy to make good mileage on, in my opinion. I did make 9.3 towing my CR-V out west last summer. That was by dividing fuel into miles about 12,500. The only time my driving style was ABSOLUTELY MPG DRIVEN was in California where I tested the "drive slower in a lower gear to get better mileage" theory that keeps cropping up. For a little over 30 days while in CA I drove 55 or less. some roads in the flat valley at 50 I had to run in 5th gear at about 1600 rpm. I was hoping for some amazing mileage figures. Well they were down to mid 7s. Bill

If you are getting over 10mpg at 65 I would lean back and enjoy the ride. As you noted there are so many variables that one tank or one trip will not give an accurate picture of mileage. In February I made a trip to south Texas. I was lucky and had a front blowing through both going and coming back. My mileage for that trip was not so good in the low 7s but I know conditions played a big part. I track my fuel usage and I like to use at least 10 fill ups to get a average. Bill

Jo, what is your mileage at 64? We have different engines my little ISB 5.9 likes 65-66. It will hold 6th gear if you back off down to 62 but any increase in load will drop it into 5th gear and it won't shift up till it is back up to 65. Doing this waste more fuel than just maintaining my speed at 65. One other thing is check your speedometer for accuracy. I checked mine and found I need to use a correction factor of + 5.8% to get my actual speed/mileage. Brett, what engine are you running and what is your average mileage? Bill

I am with you but it is getting harder to find stations without at least 10%-20% bio. Bill

I tend to travel where my coach shifts into 6th gear at 65. in econ mode depending on speed limits and conditions. Bill

Well I haven't experimented with Cat but hear are a couple places to start looking. http://www.tsdieselperformance.com/site/1617113/page/916611 https://www.pittsburghpower.com/index.php?manufacturers_id=6&sort=4a&filter_id=22 http://www.ultrarvproducts.com/store/index.php?route=product/category&path=17_67&filter=235 Most places are selling POWER not economy. I would never run with out a boost gage and a good EGT gage. Bill

Brett, have you run any of the high percentage Bio blends? I saw 50/50 in Montana but bought the straight #2. I have heard of problems with high percentage or 100% Bio. What is your opinion? Bill

1. There are no cotton oiled air filters that pass Cummins or Cat specks for passed dirt. You get more air but way to much dirt. 2. To little Back pressure? The goal is to reduce back pressure to "0" Back pressure reduces the efficiency of the turbo. There is no need for Back pressure in any internal combustion engine. Bill

One thing I didn't mention when you have the connector links out there is a long and short end to them. fortunately mine are stamped with a T so I knew how to re install it. You can visually compare them as it is about a 1/2 inch difference. The main bushings looked good. I didn't have any of the marine green, sticky grease so I used a silicone dry film lube. I will probably replace them next winter when I do my next annual. I haven't found a Polyurethane bushing for the main ones yet. Bill

These are the Polyurethane bushings and they were only about $12.00 for all the bushings and new washers. Bill

When I was under my coach doing the annual oil and filter change on the generator I noticed the bushings on the sway bar connecting rods were well used. I had read on one of the forums about using bushings from AutoZone I did a little research and came up with this kit. Part number 9.8105R. My main mounting bushings look to be in good shape. This is a pretty strait forward swap old for new. The only problem is the new bushings are tight and need a little persuasion to go over the rods. I do recommend thinning the bushings as they are thicker than originals. There is a raised area and I would take that and about .300 off to give a better fit. Otherwise it is hard to get the nut started. When I got my nut tightened down so the thread was through the locking devise they were pretty well compressed.

Can you find a part number on the back of the cluster? Or call Freightliner (if it is Freightliner) with your VIN number and see if they can help. Bill

Not enough information to give a good answer. What year? you might look hear for an answer. http://www.fmca.com/motorhome/towing/204-towing-guides-towing-four-wheels-down.html Bill

I haven't experienced this problem towing my CR-V. I have crossed some fairly rough RR crossings but try to slow down if I see them in time. How many miles on your VW? Are you hitting the crossings square or at an angle? Hopefully some one who tows a VW will chime in. Bill

Good job! Now go have some fun. Bill

I would definitely look at the date code on the tires. Oil and filter change would be next. If the gas isn't to bad I would add a couple cans of Berreymans B-12 Cemtool. http://www.berrymanproducts.com/products/gasoline/b-12-chemtool-carburetor-fuel-system-and-injector-cleaner/ You should get a couple of extra fuel filters to have in case you have junk in the tank that will plug the filters. It would be helpful if you added your coach information to your signature and profile as it makes answering questions easier. Bill

Well here is a update. I just got $35.00 in the mail from Shell. Bill

Welcome to the forum. I think traveling in a "Caravan" is the worst way to travel and very un safe and in most cases quite dangerous. In todays world where everyone has a cellphone you have instant communication with all the members. If you want to camp together plan on what camp ground before you leave and be shore everyone knows the address. If you all want to stop for lunch plan ahead on a place to meet. This allows each to travel at their own pace. When I went to one of my first RV Rally they had a couple of outings planed. They insisted on Caravanning. There were seven cars in a line and they didn't share the address where we were going. This was on secondary roads and through towns with traffic lights. There were people trying to beat lights and those who didn't make the light were speeding to catch up. The leader was driving slow and this backed up traffic that tried to pass in unsafe conditions. Well after a couple of these adventures I told them just give me the directions and address and I will meat you there. No more trying to beat lights so you don't loose the leader because you don't know where you are going. OK, OK you get the point I think Caravanning is not the way to do it. I just finished hosting a rally that included trips to several attractions in the Fort Worth Dallas area. We gave everyone maps and detailed instructions and no one had a problem getting to a destination. Bill

Roy, I think improving air flow and exhaust improvements may help. The big improvement on the V10 is a chip that helps to control the shift points and reduces "hunting" between gears. http://www.5startuning.com/got-a-v10-6-8l/ The modern engines are computer controlled and have fuel injection. The improvements available aren't as big as they use to be. I like Banks products to and have added The IQ but I have a diesel and so it is not a direct comparison. You might look at Banks water injection as an aid when pulling hard. You need to tell what engine you have. http://bankspower.com/products/show/474/59 Bill

I am in the replace them if needed camp. Look here for a better material. http://www.rv-motorhome-answers.com/rv-slide-out-topper.html Look here for how to do it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xDKCSwYXbH0 And here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D0BtLJDHKeI Bill

I have one and it did work. I did see on the web sight they have a new style metal ramp I think it may be a good improvement over the plastic ramps I got. Bill

I was thinking the same thing. I would have someone watch and try some tight corners in a parking lot. The only potential problem is the fenders might hit in a really tight turn. I did see this happen on a different make dolly but it had fenders further back. The owner had left the steering wheel un locked and it allowed the car to make contact with the dolly. I think with this one pined it would tow just like my Acme tow dolly. With the steering UN LOCKED that would solve all the problems. Bill