wildebill308

I was lucky and found a direct replacement by Googling the part number. My microwave / convection oven hangs under the cabinet. I haven't heard of a different model for shelf or mounting in a cabinet. There was room around my microwave / convection oven for air flow. It gets pretty hot when using it as a convection oven but never had a problem. The only thing to be cautious of is to have the exhaust fans set up correctly when you install it. The install paperwork will walk you through that step. Bill

Welcome to the forum. There should be no more load with the new unit than there was with the old one. I have done it on my Bounder it wasn't that big of a job. I think it cost about $ 435.00. Hear is a copy of a thread I posted before. I found the original install sheet in my paperwork and it was helpful to see how it was installed. I had the same problem I couldn’t get anyone to work on it and the only shop that would stated it would cost “at least $350.00 to get a 10 year old unit fixed. You may be as lucky as I was and find a direct replacement. When you take the old one out measure it so you can check and see if the new one will fit. I bought mine from Home Depo and it was cheaper than buying it in the store and free delivery. ON taking the trim off the top My RV had a trim piece that just snapped in place. I just started prying on it gently and it came off to expose the 2 screws in the top. I did have a little trouble, as when I had the screws out the unit wouldn’t rotate down like the original install instructions showed. I had to get an inspection mirror and look behind the unit. They had run large beads of Silicone adhesive down the back and along the bottom ledge it hooks into. I think this was done to reduce vibration. I placed a couple of pads (like seat cushion) on the range cover to protect it in case the unit came down to hard. I am glad I did. When I broke the silicone loose it did come down as advertised. I don’t think you need to take the bottom cover off to remove it but your unit may be different. You should look at and read the instructions before you start. I know I know but you might save a little time and effort. I got lucky as I found the original install instructions in my package of paperwork that came with my RV. That helped to understand how to remove the old one. Like I said read your install instructions for the type of install you will be doing. They had different instructions for/ depending on which way it was vented. I had to reposition the blower fans in the top/back of the microwave so it would blow out the top front. It came set up for an outside vent. If I hadn’t caught that I would have had to take it out and reposition the fan. I saved and re used the screws that screw in from the top as the ones in the kit were too long. If the screws are to long they can damage your new oven. The basic install went pretty quick. I was lucky as the new oven was exactly like the 10 year old one that we replaced. We installed it once without installing the screws in the top to see if we had clearance and everything worked as to fit. Then we set it down and applied 2 large beads of RTV on the back mounting plate, you have to make them big enough to make good contact and flatten out about an inch when you get the oven in place. I also put a smaller bead on the two places that the oven hooked on to on the bottom of the mounting plat. The idea is to prevent the oven from moving and reduce vibration. Tightened up the screws plugged it in and replaced the upper trim piece and gave it a trial run. Bill

I to have checked my speedometer for errors. I have a Banks IQ that will do a calibration check. It checks indicated speed against GPS speed. My speedometer was slow. I have to multiply by 5.8% to get actual GPS speed and mileage. Bill

I can't speculate on what the problem is beyond the first thing I would check would be fuel filters. You will learn if a diesel shuts down and it isn't heat related it is most likely a filter/bad fuel problem. I am hoping to hear what the problem is. Better now than after you sine the paperwork. I had a problem with the generator before I hander over the check. They are much more interested in fixing things before rather than after. By the way Brett does an excellent seminar. Bill

Herman, See spell check did know what I was thinking. Rwill, you would think you had been driving muddy back roads if you had been with us coming back from Austin this last Tuesday. The slushy wet roads left the coach looking well traveled. After the weather breaks it is going to need some serious cleaning. Bill

Now I am in fear of micro scratching my finish so I will just leave it dirty and protected and let the genital rain wash it. Bill

Like medico said but I use a scrub brush of microfiber I have one on a handle and a hand one. Just do a small area and rinse before moving on. For example I do an area like from the front on the left to the front of the slide as one area. Start at the top and work down on the area you are working on. If you need to practice my coach got really dirty coming north from the valley last Tuesday in the melting snow and slush. Bill

Where in Arizona are you starting from? Where do you want to hit the East cost? If going to Maine I can give some recommendations. Bill

Welcome to the forum. We need pictures of your White Tiger. Bill

Best bet call Splende with your info and ask them if they have the parts you need and the cost. Then you can decide if you want to repair or replace it. Bill

I was in Rushmore at the beginning of bike week, by accident we were coming east from Yellowstone and not paying attention to the date. Wasn't bad but could be a problem finding a place to stay if you didn't have reservations. When you swing through Kentucky if you like horses you should plan on stopping at the Horse park. it is north of Lexington. Also look into The Bourbon Trail: http://kyhorsepark.com/ is another grate side trip to 10 of the to distillery's in Kentucky. http://kybourbontrail.com/ Just driving around the area is amazing. Bill

Just get on the Mass pike and go west. This will take you as far as you can go west without hitting water. Seriously this takes you through the finger lakes past Niagara Falls (if you haven't been it is a must see) to western Ohio and on into Madison WI. If you continue on it takes you to Rapid City gateway to Mount Rushmore. About another day west is The Custer Battlefield. Then you are only a day from Yellowstone. I was that way last summer. Bill

Wayne, Welcome to the forum. What route are you planning and which parks do you plan on going to first? I was in all three parks this last summer. Also what route from Alabama do you plan on using? You are going to have a blast. Bill

I am sure the oil companies and the manufacture got together and created the physics that cause this problem. Moving a BIG, HEAVY box down the road takes energy. Bill

Well have you been on any trips with your coach? What have you decided? Bill

Good advise Tom. Carl, I doubt he would be having a 50 amp receptacle installed if he had 30 amp service. Even if he had a 30 amp coach if he was plugging into a 50 amp plug he would have to use an adapter and shouldn't have a problem. Bill

Welcome to the forum. I think from the replies so far you can see a trend. I think that this is something that sounds great but most end up using it as a storage. We kind of thought the same way about the washer. Well after one trip it became a "must have". Bill

Well I had to go check my records but my boost gage reads in psi. I saw no reduction in power that I could measure in my trip this last summer. High boost runs around 35psi I have a tattletale so I have a record of maximum readings. The highest I have observed was 40psi. I don't know if this was momentary or? but that was the highest on the tattletale. I am wondering how people determine they have a reduction in power? Bill

Welcome to the forum lvnrdrm. I have been doing some reading on the variable vane turbo. Rich has a lot of good info in his response. I also found that some are capping off their exhaust if parked for more than a couple of days. This prevents moisture from getting up the relatively short exhaust on a motorhome and causing corrosion on the turbo plates that cause the sticking problem. I think this is another reason to drive your coach frequently (weather permitting) so lets go someplace. I think covering the exhaust should reduce the problem I was trying to think of something handy and cheap. Perhaps a shower cap with the elastic or one of those plastic wrap covers that has the elastic. It wouldn't have to be to heavy duty and if you forget, it will just blow off. Bill

Welcome to the forum James, I will be interested to know how it comes out. I don't know how a bad turbo would cause high temp in the inlet. I would be inclined to go with what Brett said about cleaning the CC. The miss may be from a fuel or injector problem. Let us know what you find out. Bill

Unfortunately head winds will really reduce your mileage. They can also be very tiring especially if quartering or side winds. I have spent another day rather than fight a front. Bill

Some times that is the best answer. Let us know what they find. Bill

Just a thought, you might need a little help but try rocking the coach front to back it might free up the pawl. With out being there it is hard to trouble shoot. Perhaps the wrecker that towed it put/left a preload on the linkage when they parked it. Have you checked the fluid level for the parking brake? Bill

Just wondering have you ever had it out of park? Some things are harder to troubleshoot long distance. Bill

I would do a search on troubleshooting the auto brake. Check the fluid level in the auto brake reservoir. Look under it for leaks. Bill