wildebill308

Please explain the difference between a 8% grade in Mo. and the same grade in Co. Read the links Brett posted and you will have a better knowledge of what to expect. Bill

Depending on the hill that's not to bad. Did you down shift? Did the transmission down shift on it's own? Were you in "econ mode"? Bill

Well if you have a 50,000 mile warranty you are lucky. Keep us informed. Wondering how /why you would drop a valve. Bill

When you get to Raton just down shift and keep your rpm up say 2200-2500 and you won't have a problem. Always watch your EGT and engine temp when pulling long grades. The biggest problem I have had was getting stuck behind trucks that were going 20-25ph so I had to slow and follow them. By the way there is a great campground at the top of the pass. The view is amazing. Bill

The one constant in RVs is there is no standard. All the manufactures have their own idea of how they want to wire their coach. You just have to read there owners manual. I can run my slides without starting the motor but I prefer to do it when plugged in or the generator running. I have run them when not plugged in but they do drag the batteries down pretty bad. Bill

What does the owners manual say for your exact model and year? Bill

Blue Ox has detailed instructions on their web site for your car. Why don't you go look at them and see if it is something you want to do. I had planned on doing my baseplate but ended up having the dealer do it as part of the deal. Bill

What generator do you have? Were you able to pull codes? Bill

Glad it worked out for you. What was your previous cursing speed? Bill

Who does he say is handling the warranty now? Hope you don't need it otherwise it sounds like you will be out the repairs and the cost of the warranty. Bill

If I had a new coach with 8400 miles on it and all the maintenance done I would get coach net to cover their problems or any other thing that might cause a breakdown(dead battery ect) and hit the road. You can put the money for a insurance warranty in the bank but doubt you will have any problems. Bill

Well hear is the best advise I can offer. Take the battery's some place you can do a proper charge. I would consider taking them someplace that can load test them after they are charged to eliminate the possibility of a bad cell or bad battery. Then recharge them and take them back to the RV and do the test for parasitic loads the way Brett recommended. Then report your findings. Bill

How long was the trip-- ie how long did you have them on charge? You still need to check for how much draw you have the way Brett mentioned. Not trying to jump on you. When you have just been charging a battery and don't remove the float charge you will get a false reading on the actual charge state of the battery. You can let the battery's rest for 24 hours or apply a load of about 20 amps for about 4-5 minuets this will remove the float charge. Bill

Welcome to the forum. As Brett said give us some more details. How long does it take to go down? What do you mean " Batteries test fair" They should show a full charge. Make sure they are getting a full charge. Bill

Looking good. Bill

Good job! It is amazing what the manufacturers let slide. I found a air leak along the top of the refrigerator. I probably wouldn't have found it but we were camping in some really cold windy weather and felt the draft. Bill

I don't thing you will have a problem. I would have someone qualified check it out before you buy it. Like others have said check the dates on the tires you can find the date on the sidewall it will start wit DOT the last 4 numbers will give you the week and last two numbers of the year 4110 is 41st week of 2010. I will bet you won't get any maintenance records so I would do a complete annual maintenance to start with to give you a base. That is what I did with my coach. When I am on the road and if it is that cold I run the furnaces to heat the basement. When I am parked and staying in the coach the furnace protects the basement are. When in storage I have a ceramic cube heater that heats the whet area and two electric heaters to keep the interior from freezing. I don't winterize it so I keep heat in it. We don't have long cold spells hear in Texas. But tonight will be in the mid 20s I am glad I have the heat on. Bill

Welcome to the forum Phill. I am of the group that self insures. You are talking $3800. and another posted $6000 dollars. I have seen and read of many people having problems getting claims paid. I would recommend Coach Net for towing and other road problems but I would put the money in the bank and if you have a problem you will probably be able to cover it. I will say if you do all your maintenance you should be fine. If you do by a policy you need to keep exacting maintenance records and have them with you at all times. Bill

Welcome to the forum. I don't have a good answer for you as I helped a friend put his on and decided I didn't want to have to do that. I will caution you to be sure that it doesn't flop and chafe your coach when the wind blows as it will damage the paint. Bill

My kitchen faucet was working OK but didn't like it. Replaced it with a faucet that is taller and the head pulls out like a sprayer. This makes a much handier setup. Also replaced the filtered water faucet as well. Bill

Glad we could help. Bill

Below about 45 the heat pumps won't provide much heat so you will be on propane. I don't know about your coach but mine will switch to propane automatically if the temperature gets down where I am not getting enough heat. I have a small cube heater in the wet bay to protect the pipes. Bill

Rich types faster than I do. It directs any over pressure venting out from under your coach. Bill

Welcome to the forum. Let us know what the shop has to say. Lets hope it is a minor problem. Bill

Congratulations and welcome to the forum. Nice looking rig. Bill