wildebill308

Wolfe 10 is absolutely right any break in the duct going to the filter would have nothing to do with “dusting”. The only possible thing would be hot air from the engine compartment being drawn into the air supply. I would like to hear Cat explain where the dust came from. Do you have the air filter that was installed at the time this happened? Have you checked the tubing to the turbo? I hope you can find out where the dirt was getting in as it may do the same thing to the new motor. Bill

Unfortunately an oil test will only tell you how much Silica has gotten by your rings and is in suspension in your oil. It will not tell you what your oil filter has trapped. I wonder if there is any damage being done to your turbo, valves and heads. I have seen enough evidence in that test data that I will not be running a K&N. I was a believer in them and had one on my last truck. Just as a note: I use to run an oil test lab when I was in the AF. Bill

I installed a Banks stainless steel muffler which is straight through with a venturi effect. I looked at the Aerodine at The 6 state rally and I decided to go with the Banks. I almost went with the K&N but found this filter test and I am glad I didn’t. This is a link to the filter test. You might want to read it if you are using a K&N filter. This is the only test that I have seen that used lab test equipment to do a test that is repeatable and to a given standard ISO 5011 test standard was used. http://www.billswebs...rFilterTest.htm I am in the process of upgrading my air filter. I ordered a Racor/Ecolite filter part number 62891-003 from Filter Barn and waiting for it to arrive. This is a 13 1/2-diameter filter. I looked up the flow rate on their website and it list 1375 to 1900 CFM. I will have to use adapters to get it hooked up, as it is 7 inch in and 7 inch out. I was looking at the K&N but after reading the test results on them I changed my mind. I think this filter will give better airflow than stock and better than the K&N (I have never heard what K&N claims), and hold more dirt before needing change. Hear is a link to the filter site http://www.parker.co...nextcat=ECOLITE SERIES&vgnextdiv=687630&vgnextpartno=062891003&Wtky=FILTERS Fleet pride is ordering the adapters that I need to connect the new filter. I probably won’t get the filter installed before I leave on a little trip next week so we will see if there is any difference with just the muffler. Bill

Herman has a good suggestion for you and if you just need a generator worked on, assuming it is Onan try this. http://www.cumminsonan.com/locator Bill

What I really need now is feedback on Banks EconoMind® Diesel Tuner + electronic DynaFact pyrometer and boost gauge assembly. This is for the Cummins 2003 –2007 5.9 ISB-CR engine. Has anyone installed this system and what were your results. Thanks for your input Bill

What I really need now is feedback on Banks EconoMind® Diesel Tuner + electronic DynaFact pyrometer and boost gauge assembly. This is for the Cummins 2003 –2007 5.9 ISB-CR engine. Has anyone installed this system and what were your results. Thanks for your input Bill

Yes my bad. 2003 Bounder 38N with 300 hp Cummins and 3000 Allison. I am familiar with modes to gas motor homes but new to the world of diesel. I understand using a light foot but wonder what else is out there. Bill

Just a note, All synthetic oils are fully compatible with regular oil. The guy trying to tell you that you had to flush all the old oil out and change the seals was looking for a fast buck. Bill

If you are plugged in to shore power and have power a couple of electric heaters will save you a lot of propane. Bill

What if any modes have you done to your exhaust or air cleaner. Has any one added a chip to improve performance or mileage? For instance a Banks power pack system. Bill

Do not use to high of pressure as you might bend the fins on the radiater or cac. I would rinse every time I sprayed with degreaser. Bill

Brett, That is a great reference. Looks like he needs to crawl under his coach and find the data plate. Is it a limited slip differential? If so you will need to add friction modifiers. The chart on page 160 does show use of synthetic gear lube. Bill

Thats the problem with long range diagnostics. Whether the screws are on the inside or outside snug them down per my earlier post and don't over torque them.

Robert, Welcome to the forum. I need more info. Is the squeak coming from the glass rubbing in the channels or from the window frame rubbing in the cut out in the side of the coach? Try what Nighthawk posted first. Then try going outside and tightening the screws around the window. You don't need to get crazy with the torque I would say 35 inch pounds should be the max. Let us know what you find and if it fixes the problem. Actually I would do both then take it for a ride. Bill

Go ahead and push it, you will be able to tell if it is in T/H or not. You can do this when siting in place so you can look for an indicator light. I have a Chevy truck with a T/H button and it stays depressed till you push it again. Bill

I want to add a “extend a stay” adapter to my propane system. Has any one added one and where did you tap in to the system. I am thinking I want it on the right side so I can use it to also power my outside gas grill. What about going in the refrigerator access panel? Bill

My 2012 Civic owners manual states it can not be towed 4 down. The part of the manual(emergency towing) states to get a sucker truck to pick up the car if you need to move it. There is no approved method of emergency towing. I haven't been brave enough to try 4 down, I got a tow dolly. Bill

I was in the Freightliner store hear in Fort Worth last week and they had two big bins of lug nut covers. I don’t remember the price but I don’t think it was too bad. Bill

The big secret to getting silicone or any other product to stick is IT MUST BE CLEAN. Use scotch brite and clean with acetone. I have installed things I can’t tell you about to the inside of a F-35 canopy and they stuck. Bill

Welcome to the forum.. I need to know what chassis you are runing to give a good recommendation. Bill

Can you tell me the part number of the air filter you have for your RV. Was that a Cummins diesel? I have a 5.9 Thanks Bill

Herman, I haven't heard any follow up on what happened in that crash. Any news? I really didn't hear a lot about the 6 State Rally. I was there but haven't seen any or limited post in reference to it. 500 Class A motorhomes get together and no one is commenting. What happens at 6 State stays at 6 States. Bill

Looking forward to your report. Bill

Welcome to the forum. There are no bad engines out there any more. You won’t find a Doge in anything but an older RV. They stopped making RV chassis as part of the 1979 bail out. There may have been some 80”s made with left over chassis but I don’t know. 440 were great. I thing the 460 was a great workhorse. Early ones need new timing setup to get rid of power robbing retard of cam timing. They also need headers as they tend to crack exhaust headers (especially the right aft) Fuel injected was better. Ford V10 will do a good job they are a high rpm engine and that scares some people. They will run for 300,000 miles or longer with good maintenance. Don’t worry about rpm as they have a built in rev limiter, you can’t hurt it with rpm’s. The GM engines are good with few down sides. You didn’t say what your price range was or what you were trying to do. I think the biggest problem in finding a great used RV is the age. I have just been through all of this. You will find it hard to find someone to finance a RV older than 10 years and a lot of places only go 5 or 6 years old. Well this is my opinion and is worth what you paid for it. Bill

Just wondering if you have a manual fill for your fresh water. Not the one off your "city water" system. I opend mine and used it as a way to tell if the tank is full. Bill