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wildebill308

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Everything posted by wildebill308

  1. Brett, Following the link posted will show that the 5-40 oil meets or exceeds the manufactures specifications. Bill Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck meets or exceeds the requirements of the following industry and builder specifications: API CJ-4, CI-4 PLUS, CI-4, CH-4/ SM, SL, SJ ACEA E7 Issue 2 Caterpillar ECF-2,ECF-3
  2. PABEAV56, All great answers I will through my 2 cents in. I use Mobil1 5-40 in my Cummins. I like that it has superior protection for the turbo and flows faster on start up. I do oil testing but more to know if I have a problem than to extend the oil change. I am not Shure what Cat recommends but Cummins recommends 15000 miles or yearly. Here is a link to Mobil’s web site. http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Oils/Mobil_1_Turbo_Diesel_Truck_5W-40.aspx Bill
  3. David, welcome to the forum. There are many levels of dealers out there. The more you know the more of the right questions you know to ask the better your experience will be. The people I bought from were at least honest enough when I asked a question they didn’t try to BS me. I asked if they did any kind of check out on new stock when they got it in. They told me they just checked the oil to see if it was full and basically just tried all the appliances. Yet when I found a couple of things they jumped in and fixed them. Don’t be shy about trying out EVERYTHING. Once you hand them the check and sign the papers they have a hard time hearing you. Don’t be so in love with it that you can’t say when you get this fixed/ working call me. Bill
  4. You haven’t signed the papers and taken delivery so tell him you want it fixed or the cost of replacement taken off the price. I think it should work at least as good as your Monaco and maybe better on the high setting. Bill
  5. Surely there must be more to the story. This is like the guy who bought a new motor coach and had it delivered then was asking, “How do I drive it”. Never test drove it or never drove any RV before. Bill
  6. Welcome to the forum. Why would you take delivery if it wasn't to your satisfaction. The generator on my coach quit during the last test drive before I handed them a check. I just said "fix it and call me when its is done" That cost the dealer $650.00. Bill
  7. Well let’s look at facts. You can call Banks and they will give you the test results and tell you how they ran the test. Banks stands behind their product. When you call K&N they talk glowingly about how much air the new and improved filter flows but never a word about how much dirt it stops. All you have to do is a simple Goggle search and find many articles testing air filters. You have to use the ISO 5011 test standards on the proper equipment. This way the test is repeatable and consistent. I wouldn’t run a Banks filter if they made one for my application unless it did well in an ISO 5011 test. Deseratdeals69, “Why don't you use the same standard judging Banks as K&N? We have done warranty repair for Banks at there request with failures that happen to be in our area near our shop. They paid quickly.” You act like it is a bad thing that Banks paid quickly on warranty issues. I wonder how fast K&N will pay if you dust an engine. Bill
  8. All K&N needs to do is release the test data. Why haven't they done that? I would think it would make a great marketing tool. The only test data they have shared has to do with air flow not how much dirt it stops. Bill
  9. If you want facts . This is a link to a filter test. You might want to read it if you are using a K&N filter. This is the only test that I have seen that used lab test equipment to do a test that is repeatable and to a given standard ISO 5011 test standard was used. http://www.billswebs...rFilterTest.htm I think its intersting that K&N will not release their test data. Bill
  10. desertdeals69 The thermocouple is located in the exhaust just before the turbo. I didn’t get mine installed so I don’t have any idea what temps I was running pulling Raton pass but I didn’t have any problem. I actually found a campsite above the pass. johnmicb I think you should run in 1 as well as 2 and 6. Running in 1 will give you a base line as it is the stock power setting. I think the “power” number is the percentage over stock power. Bill
  11. I would allso check that they used the right filters. Bill
  12. “That said, I did not see a benefit of running the IQ on the "6" setting in terms of reducing EGT, as was the recommendation from the Banks Tech Advisor when originally contacted about how to reduce the EGT (at the time, I was operating it on a "2" setting).” I don’t think you will see a reduction in EGT running in the 6 setting as it would logicality produce more heat because you are working the engine harder. Perhaps the Banks Tech Advisor did not fully understand your question. “Not sure what options are left if the free flowing monster exhaust does not alleviate some of the EGT issues. I certainly will not be headed to Colorado under the present operating conditions.” Now I don’t understand your concerns. You now have the ability to monitor your EGT and reduce power settings if they climb to high. I think it would be informative to run in the “1” power setting as well when you do your next test. My curiosity is up about what mileage you are geting in each of the settings. Bill
  13. There are people who would be extremely happy with that mileage. I just got back from filling up after a short trip to Bandera Texas. Had strong head and side winds both ways with lots of construction areas. I averaged 7.608 towing my Civic. I would like to go somewhere where it wasen't up hill both wayes with strong head winds. Bill
  14. Welcom to the forum. Glad you found the problem. Bill
  15. I don’t get to worried about “payback” when doing anything with a motor home. I would probably be sitting in my back yard doing a “staycation” rather than traveling. Lets look at some alternative things you can do to improve your mileage. The reason I recommend Banks is it is a complete package that is engineered to work together. You can do about the same on your own by improving exhaust flow. You can add good set of headers Gibson makes some. http://www.gibsonexhaust.com/motorhome/ These long tube headers will improve torque. http://www.dougthorleyheaders.com/products/productID/1082 Add in a couple of free flowing mufflers and you will see an improvement in overall performance. I would also add a cold air inlet system to get more cold air to your intake. I do not like the K&N style of air cleaners I have seen test where they flow more air but also more dirt. Bill
  16. I think it is interesting that the speed you are running to stay in top gear is basically the same as I use. I run 62-65. I can’t get it to shift into 6th under 62 and I find running just a little more rpm helps keep it in 6th. I think the reason to by the Banks is to improve drive ability. I didn’t by a motor home with the thought there would be a payback down the road. Bill
  17. The Honda CRV is probably the most common 4 down towed in use. There are simple ways to address the dead battery problem and I don’t know of anyone who has had a transmission problem if they follow the directions in the owner’s manual. Bill
  18. You may be right about just the jumper burning up. This is something that I can’t make much of a diagnosis with out hands on and a meter to check out various items. Could just be a fuse or circuit breaker. Could be something more. When you start looking at older used coaches you go in expecting to do some remodeling. That is why you are spending $30,000 not $130,000. Hope it works out for you. Bill
  19. If you don’t trust extenders go to a truck tire place and have them install longer steel valve stems of the proper length. Bill
  20. "and also said that it never leaked" That he was aware of. I would pull the windows and reseal. Water leaks have a cumlutive efect. You may have had a leak for a long time and it wasen't evedent. No water driping in your face when you were sleeping or weet spots on the floor. Water slowley seaping into the wall my go un notised for a long time. I think it could be an fairley easey fix. Bill
  21. Well shame on me I had a bunch of stuff come up and didn’t get my kit installed before my planed trip to Bandera. I haven’t filled up yet so I don’t know what my mileage was. I would like to make one trip that it wasn’t 4o mile an hour head winds or side winds. Well I better get busy because we are going to northern New Mexico the end of next month. I think it was interesting about the readings on cruise. I will be interested in what they say. Bill
  22. You are running a big heavy rig you won’t get great mileage if you don’t drive a little slower. I would try to find where it shifts into your top gear and set my cruise just fast enough it stays in the top gear most of the time. You will have it downshifting to go over hills ect. But you are better off just staying in top gear. I do this on my coach it isn’t the same because it is diesel but the principal is the same. You could see what Banks has to give you more torque to help it hold top gear longer when you hit a hill. http://bankspower.com/products/show/122/68 Bill
  23. Check the date codes on the tiers. You will probably have to pull the windows out to do a good job of repairing the leaks. This isn’t as hard as it sounds. Yes you probably can repair the damage from the inside. Bill
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