wildebill308

Beautiful coach, congratulations. Bill

First welcome to the forum. If you post what coach and chassis you have it will help in getting good answers. There is no reason you can’t change your own oil and filter. You will find it is easier because you generally have more clearance. You do need to find out how much oil you need so you know how big of pan you need. You can find video on you tub on servicing your onan. Bill

Welcome to the forum. It would be helpful to know what size tires you are running. The other thing is to check the age of your tiers. Check the DOT codes on your tires. The rest of the answers give good advice. Bill

I bet you have 4. Look in the corners about 1 1/2- 2 inches in from the edge. The magnet is a good idea. Bill

I think you can find a great class A within your budget but you will have to look at a lot of coaches to find the one that is right for you. Do your home work and know what problem areas to look for. Bill

Great post. Bill

You can follow this link and see who is closer to you. http://www.allisontransmission.com/locator/bing/locationlist.jsp?op=pagePrevious&pageCounter=2&street=&city=Fort+Worth&state=TX&zip=&country=US&radius=100&services=&point1=32.74885177612305&point2=-97.32939147949219 Bill

Duner Bill, I think my odometer is off about the same as the speedometer. I checked the "corrected mileage against Google and it was pretty close. What speed are you traveling? Bill

I installed a Banks Economind diesel tuner and IQ. One of the features on the IQ is you can calibrate your speed using GPS. I found I was running 5.7% faster than what my speedometer was showing. I also checked using the mile markers for 5 miles at 60 mph. The gps speed and mile markers are close enough. I checked my mileage and on one leg it went from 8.6364 to 9.1286 after correcting the mileage. I wonder how accurate the different speedometers out there and how the differences affect the reported mileage. We have just arrived at Cherry Hill Park from Texas. Went 30 to 40 then 81 to 64 then 95 to DC. Not the best route to get great mileage but I did an average of 9.1137 mpg. I have been running 60 to 65 where I could. I was getting 8.2446. I don’t know how much the Banks setup helps but I have been running in level 2 and getting an average of .8691 improvements traveling the back bone of Tennessee. That doesn’t sound like much but it’s about $50.00 so far on this trip. Bill

Well now you made me go look up my height. It is listed as 12" 1' I am going to double check it and see how close that is. Bill

Glad you figured it out. Bill

Mine shut down when we were doing the final walk through and going for another road test. The dealer had to pull the unit and take it to Cummins to have it checked out and repaired. I dogged the bullet on that one, it cost the dealer $650.00. Cummins report said over heating because of “crystals” in the radiator. Just try to run at least 1/2-3/4 load. Bill

You didn’t say which generator you have but I will assume it is a diesel. One thing I have learned the hard way is to change the coolant regularly and use low silicate antifreeze. There seems to be a problem with the silicate precipitating out of solution causing blockage in the radiator. As always exercising your generator properly will reduce or eliminate a lot of problems. Bill

Well that is certainly one way to cure that problem. Congratulations on your new coach. Let’s see some pictures and a driving report. Bill

Brett, Following the link posted will show that the 5-40 oil meets or exceeds the manufactures specifications. Bill Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck meets or exceeds the requirements of the following industry and builder specifications: API CJ-4, CI-4 PLUS, CI-4, CH-4/ SM, SL, SJ ACEA E7 Issue 2 Caterpillar ECF-2,ECF-3

PABEAV56, All great answers I will through my 2 cents in. I use Mobil1 5-40 in my Cummins. I like that it has superior protection for the turbo and flows faster on start up. I do oil testing but more to know if I have a problem than to extend the oil change. I am not Shure what Cat recommends but Cummins recommends 15000 miles or yearly. Here is a link to Mobil’s web site. http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Oils/Mobil_1_Turbo_Diesel_Truck_5W-40.aspx Bill

David, welcome to the forum. There are many levels of dealers out there. The more you know the more of the right questions you know to ask the better your experience will be. The people I bought from were at least honest enough when I asked a question they didn’t try to BS me. I asked if they did any kind of check out on new stock when they got it in. They told me they just checked the oil to see if it was full and basically just tried all the appliances. Yet when I found a couple of things they jumped in and fixed them. Don’t be shy about trying out EVERYTHING. Once you hand them the check and sign the papers they have a hard time hearing you. Don’t be so in love with it that you can’t say when you get this fixed/ working call me. Bill

You haven’t signed the papers and taken delivery so tell him you want it fixed or the cost of replacement taken off the price. I think it should work at least as good as your Monaco and maybe better on the high setting. Bill

Herman puts on a great ice cream social. Bill

Surely there must be more to the story. This is like the guy who bought a new motor coach and had it delivered then was asking, “How do I drive it”. Never test drove it or never drove any RV before. Bill

Welcome to the forum. Why would you take delivery if it wasn't to your satisfaction. The generator on my coach quit during the last test drive before I handed them a check. I just said "fix it and call me when its is done" That cost the dealer $650.00. Bill

Well let’s look at facts. You can call Banks and they will give you the test results and tell you how they ran the test. Banks stands behind their product. When you call K&N they talk glowingly about how much air the new and improved filter flows but never a word about how much dirt it stops. All you have to do is a simple Goggle search and find many articles testing air filters. You have to use the ISO 5011 test standards on the proper equipment. This way the test is repeatable and consistent. I wouldn’t run a Banks filter if they made one for my application unless it did well in an ISO 5011 test. Deseratdeals69, “Why don't you use the same standard judging Banks as K&N? We have done warranty repair for Banks at there request with failures that happen to be in our area near our shop. They paid quickly.” You act like it is a bad thing that Banks paid quickly on warranty issues. I wonder how fast K&N will pay if you dust an engine. Bill

All K&N needs to do is release the test data. Why haven't they done that? I would think it would make a great marketing tool. The only test data they have shared has to do with air flow not how much dirt it stops. Bill

If you want facts . This is a link to a filter test. You might want to read it if you are using a K&N filter. This is the only test that I have seen that used lab test equipment to do a test that is repeatable and to a given standard ISO 5011 test standard was used. http://www.billswebs...rFilterTest.htm I think its intersting that K&N will not release their test data. Bill

desertdeals69 The thermocouple is located in the exhaust just before the turbo. I didn’t get mine installed so I don’t have any idea what temps I was running pulling Raton pass but I didn’t have any problem. I actually found a campsite above the pass. johnmicb I think you should run in 1 as well as 2 and 6. Running in 1 will give you a base line as it is the stock power setting. I think the “power” number is the percentage over stock power. Bill