kaypsmith

If you are coming down I65, then 231,towards the Fla. Panhandle, just before Troy Al., there is very nice campground named Deer Run. I've never had to make reservations there. It is a friendly cg and makes for very convenient way to break up the trip. If you want to take the scenic route to further south, it is almost always necessary to reserve at St. George Island, State Park. This is a very good campground near Apalachicola Fla.. The seafood including oysters are some of the best that you can find anywhere. Just a couple observations on my part, hope you have a wonderful stay in Fla. Happy trails, Kay

Radio vendor, boy is smart. As Rich says the car only acts as a ground plane. If you have a rubber or fiberglass roof, you can take a piece of copper wire and stretch it from front to rear of your coach. Wire can be shielded with standard poly dielectric really is better, since it will help prevent corroding. Black in color will last longer because black is UV proof. pull one end of the wire, or both ends to a good grounding point on your coach, and make sure that your antenna is grounded well also. Seems like extreme, but with Rich's suggestion will greatly add to the AM reception. As an amateur radio operator, I have literally worked the world from rv with a similar setup. Good luck and Happy trails, Kay

Sounds like a pretty good system that you have going. I use word and copy and paste to it in the same manner that you described. I haven't found any other method yet that works well for me. Hope someone else has found a better way, as I would like one also. I lived in Lake City back in the early eighties and supervised convenience stores in Gainesville. We still have family in that area, and visit them a couple times a year. Always like to hear from your area. Happy trails, hope that Concord/Coachman gets her way soon. Kay

One more thing to think about is, pressure sensors/guages and learning how to take advantage of their readings can greatly increase fuel mileage. For instance, when the turbo pressure drops, simply ease off of the accelerator when going uphill. This increases the air to fuel ratio, which increases fuel mileage. If you don't have guages, learning to watch the exhaust, when black smoke appears, the smoke is an indication of unburned fuel. From your last post, you are probably already aware of this, one more indication that the chip might prove to be useless in your circumstance. Sounds like you have already made up your mind the best scenario. My comments are mostly so if anyone else reads this post, they might get some common good from it. Happy trails, may the wind be at your back, Kay

Take a look at this link!!!! http://reviews.cnet.com/microwave-ovens/whirlpool-gh7208xrb-velos-speedcook/4505-17877_7-33003927.html

Sounds like an expensive Whirlpool nightmare. I would start by contacting Winnebago again, and I would demand that they replace that microwave with another brand at their expense, surely your MH is still under manufacture warranty. Obviously Whirlpool doesn't care!!!! I bet if the Winnebago factory gets behind Whirlpool, and stops using Whirlpool products in their products, it will get more attention than just one squeaky wheel. Good luck, Kay

Hello, Greg, and welcome to FMCA. This sounds like a real plan to me. Good luck with your desires to fulltime. Damon makes a good product I'm not familiar with the Challenger330, but seems that you are already impressed that model. On a Ford chassis, probably has a gas engine, which should be sufficient. I personally would have diesel, primarily because of torque and longevity. I've owned two with gas engines and two with diesel, and would not go back to gas. But that is an issue that you apparently have already considered. The ability to move when you get ready is really desirable, especially with the fact that you are single, don't have to argue with anyone as to when and where. I'm sure that your kid will be grateful any time you say, let's go. Just a little pun! The model years that you mentioned is a good choice, because they are not too old yet, and can be purchased at a good buyer's price. Good luck with your decision, and happy trails. Kay

Check with your insurance agent about the windshield deductable. All glass is insured under the comprehensive portion of your insurance, and most companies put the comprehensive portion at one half of the collision deductable. Hope this is true on yours, or hopefully even lower. Good luck, Kay

Just one more thought, I surely hope that there is metal behind that fiberglass, but if only wood, remove the screws one at a time, and put lots of silicone in the screw holes. Maybe I will quit thinking, but I hope all works well. Kay

Loctight is good, but could be a detriment if removal is necessary, we use fingernail polish, as it is lacquer and will crack when turned, nail polish remover will take off the remnants. I would add star washers if they are not already there and the nail polish. Lowes and most other supply places carry them is the specialty items on the same aisle as the screws and bolts. LOL, Kay (PS) thought I had the attachment figured out, but must not have.

Sorry, I was taking pictures when you sent your last post. The bottom, under the arm at the base, you probably have already removed that cover, and taken off that nut, or bolt as yours might be. Simply use a good corrosive buster, WD40 will do, it just takes more of it. Squirt it generously into the crevice at the bottom of the arm, and with a straw on your pressurized can of buster, squirt up and into the same hole that the bolt came out of. Let this sit for a while, and then gently move the arm right and left. There is the heater and adjusting wires up and inside this area, but wd40 and most penetrates will not hurt these, just look for any cautions on the can that might advise otherwise. When the movement begins, squirt more penetrant into the crevice as mentioned before. The arm will lift right up and off, careful not to damage wires. There should be about inches of slack in the wires, with a molex connector that will separate. The chrome cover pulls straight off to reveal the for screws that you are looking for. If you need the pictures, I will gladly e-mail them to you, but the advice above is pretty straight forward. Remember penetrate and lots of it will not hurt anything except our feelings while cleaning up the mess. WD40 is nothing except diesel fuel with a propellant, the newer stuff does not even contain propane to propel as the old school version did. Good luck, Kay (PS) I didn't see a place to attach the pictures to this post, or they would be here.

Are the screw heads covered, or is your base appear to be solid chrome? If the link that Rich sent you is correct, should be a simple task. If the base appears to be solid chrome, let me know. I have the same Velvac mirrors, but the base is solid looking. If it is like mine, I will send you pictures and instructions for getting to the screws. Good luck, Kay

I'm a liitle surprised that you have not already gotten a response to your question already, but for what it is worth. I'm an electronic engineer by trade, specializing in the computer field now. Any so called upgrade that supposedly gives better performance and or better fuel mileage is just an overide of what should be operating optimum already. Sure you can turn up most any engine, but remember that an engineer actually built that product to specifications and input the computer to not get everything that the engine is capable of, simply for the reason that he or she knows that getting maximum performance will actually shorten the longevity of their product. I'm reasonably sure that your unit has already outlived the original warranty period. If you take that engine in to Cummins, the first thing they will do, even though it is out of warranty, is to remove the add on, before any test will be performed. Could you get better fuel mileage? Probably! Would you increase the life expectancy of the engine? Probably not! With all things considered, your conscience probably is your best guide. Anyway good luck, which way you choose. Happy trails, and have fun motoring, Kay

Hope that I never have to take up residence in one of those states that require class A or B or CDL. As an Alabama resident I am not required to have a special license for a motorhome. I had to have a chauffeurs license in Florida, as I worked where I drove large equipment, this was pre CDL. If I had remained in Florida, it would have grandfathered to CDL. But when I moved back to Alabama I had to surrender the chauffeur license to Alabama as no chauffeur license was required at the time to drive anything that was drivable in the state. Now that CDL has become federal law, I tried to upgrade to a CDL, but was refused as I became Diabetic during the course of all of the above. Now a diabetic can obtain a CDL as long as he can maintain the diabetes with the pill. I was on the pill, but I had diabetic episodes many times because of the pill. After going on insulin, never had another episode. But CDL requirements will not allow a diabetic on insulin to get a CDL, go figure. So I guess that I will have to drive my motorhome with my good old Alabama license. Glad you are finally legal and happy trails, Kay

What a shame, I was is New Jersey two weeks ago, and would have been glad to check it out. Hope someone there will step up to plate, and good luck. Newell usually good and very well built. Happy trails, Kay

Hello all, I've worked in the computer industry for over thirty years. I use Verizon MIFI, and have for the past 5 years, before that was ripped off by Hughesnet for 12 years as many others also believe they were. When just surfing, I use the cg wifi as much as possible rather than mifi for frugality. But making payments online and other security issues, I rely on mifi. As to the best laptop, Mac is very good, but, I have to use Microsoft most of the time, because of giving customer support. The best laptop that I have owned in years is a Lenovo Thinkpad, "yes Thinkpad". I am currently using Windows7 Pro., as it is a very stable OS and the most secure, that is user friendly. Windows 8 is a little more secure, but is the most user unfriendly that MS has offered yet. The browser that you use is the key to internet security, along with services that specialize in identity theft. Mozilla firefox is a reliable browser, but many banking institutions do not support it. IE10 has almost completely been rewritten to overcome security holes, and other security issues, and so far, seems to be a very good choice. There are some issues with ie10 that have been making it appear to lock up when browsing. These issues are because of dll entrys in the registry. There is a third party fix that can be run that will straighten out this issue, as some websights do not recognize 64bit explorers, and some will not revert to 32bit if you os is still running x86. Simply search for 32 versus 64 bit issues, and the fix is readily available. If you cannot find it, e-mail me and I will gladly forward them to you. Happy trails' Kay

Hello all, this thread could be depressing, especially to a newcomer to the lifestyle. As Rich said, many of the new fangled gadgets are nice, but add to the complexity of your coach. Simplicity is hard to beat. My coach is home built, and this was a learning curve. All of us have problems to deal with, I pulled into a campground in Pigeon Forge Tenn., on June 29 this year. Set up, and went to dinner. All was cool, as this was a 325 mile trek on that day, flawless, everything going my way. Next day I needed to air up coach to install tire covers, and to my dismay that sweet Detroit let me down. I Tried numerous RV repair places, but to my dismay, none of them knew anything about Detroit engines. A search on the internet revealed a truck and diesel repair facility in Bristol Tenn.. A call and I became acquainted with one of the nicest people in the industry, Milton Worley. He and a helper drove the hundred mile journey, diagnosed the problem, then ordered the parts necessary to be delivered overnight. Next day about 1:30 Pm, they appeared in the rain, we tried to get some kind of tarp up. They worked literally in the rain till nearly dark. My wife said to me, how much will this cost? I replied probably $1500.00. When he finally presented the bill, he was apologetic that it was $943.00. I was relieved and gladly paid for his services. The rest of the vacation was of course cut back in normal expenditures, but was a wonderful stay. Moral of this short trivia is that, you must expect the bad with the good, and sometimes you will find that there can be other sources to get the same job done. As mentioned by Skip, he has found someone who will come to him for repairs. There are many of these Mobile RV repairmen out there. Most of them have worked for reputable dealers, and or repair shops. Hope that all will remember them, and don't hesitate to ask for references when calling on them. If they seem offended that you ask, those are the ones that you do not want to work on your equipment anyway. Good luck to all, Kay

The 4104 is a great old coach. Being converted in the late 70's, early 80's, is a plus, as you will have the starting places already in place. You will surely have a lot of work ahead of you. Make sure that all electrical is good for todays standards. The plumbing will need to be checked thoroughly. Updates to the above mentioned will be well worth your while. There is a book called bus converters bible, it is well worth reading, to get yourself up to speed on how to get going. Of course, though you didn't mention it, you may have done much of this kind of work before. If you already are familiar with coach conversions, then good luck on getting it back on the road next summer. Looking forward to seeing any progress pictures in the future. Happy trails, Kay

Whew, now my head hurts!!!! Ha-Ha. All the good input from the other guys, is very true. I personally don't like the fact that a negative wire of at least the same size as the positive is not present from the batteries to the charging and or the inverting stations. But having said this, it seemed to have worked many years very well. Older units sometimes had this configuration, which depended on the chassis to negative. Biggest problem with this method is of course, the fact that chassis is steel, and the wires are copper, usually with brass ends, which are dissimilar metals. This leads to corrosion, as well as the heat that naturally occurs from the fact that electricity is being used. Keeping all terminals clean is a vital key to making them function well. Happy motoring Tim, and good luck with your problem. Kay

Is the Red Bay, in Alabama? Possibly Tiffin motorhomes? Tiffin is the manufacturer of Allegro and other motorhomes. If this the place, I would surely ask them to survey the problem. I live in Alabama, and many rvers use their services for painting and the like. Good luck, Kay

Looks like a dream come true. Welcome to motorcoaching, and FMCA. Happy trails and good luck, Kay

Your question about how long depends on many things. Is your 2001 Daemon Challenger with 52000 miles a diesel pusher, or gas engine? For either, that should be pretty low mileage, But as expected a diesel engine, could be Cummins, Caterpillar, or maybe but not likely a Detroit. A gasoline engine usually goes 100,000 miles with little to no issues, or even more. A diesel engine can easily go 500,000 miles or more. All things considered, proper maintenance is the key to how much mileage can be expected. Transmissions are likewise a very big issue, but like engines if properly maintained, many more miles can be expected than what you have incurred. All things considered you should be in pretty good shape to go with your plans. But please remember that this only my thoughts. Keep up the maintenance is the best way of assurance to getting the most of the least. My coach has two million two hundred twenty four thousand miles. Has the third engine and transmission to date, but remember that it was originally a dog then another carrier then mine. I have all of the maintenance records since she was new in 1988. Good luck and happy trails, Kay

I have a Samsung house type fridge also. I shopped intensively for the lowest amperage possible, for inverter reasons. Only one with a lower amp draw was an LG, which I did not like some features. That is why I chose Samsung, not a plug for sales!!!! 3.9 amps maximum draw. Anyway I have used this fridge over 10,000 miles, and it is never shutdown for any reason. I dont know why rep didn't think it to be a good idea, but as mentioned in another post, I would ask that rep for reasoning, maybe Kitchenaid (also known as Whirlpool), might even void the warranty if it is used in motion. Otherwise, enjoy it. I would not like the hassel of turning it off and back on. Happy trails, Kay

Another late tidbit to this post. Like desertdeals69, I love a challenge. My third motorhome, is a retired dog, bought her on e-bay, drove her home, then started the conversion. Cut the holes in the roof for ac, wired her, plumbed her and all the makings for a complete unit. Have turned down 100 grand. Just basic 101. I have been watching desertdeals69 accomplishments for a good while, and am impressed. Kay

Pretired, Most lights in coaches are 12 volt, and some other operations, such as your camper style refrigerator. If all of these go out when unplugged from shore power, but work when plugged in, then the 12 volt must be working on the 12 volt converter. If you crank the coach, do any of these items work then? There should be two sets of battery/batteries. One battery or sometimes two batteries for the coach to crank and run. Now that said, there usually on most coaches is, another set of batteries, this is for house use. These are not normally in the same area of the coach as the battery used for cranking the coach. As Rich suggested, find a manual, if possible, for your model coach. Knowing what I have described above, you should look for house batteries, versus chassis batteries. I hope this tidbit will help relieve any confusion about the 12 volt wiring. Kay