jleamont

I had a 48 volt Club Car. 1998 DS

Jack, I installed a Banks power pack on my last coach with a V10. It ran great after, no fuel mpg improvement but more power, the headers also cut down on heat up front that my DW always complained about. The foundation of the Triton engines that didn't come with a supercharger from the factory is not there to add one in my opinion, the connecting rods are small and thin to make it light enough to spin at high rpm's.

astmi, I remember Huffypuff mentioning before when he would wash his coach if water was sprayed at the side vent it would shut his off, not sure if Ray is still chiming in on here or not. Be thankful its over sensitive, ours wasn't when I needed it to be.

Had one, modified it to run 28 mph (electric), then it wouldn't stop added front brakes, radio, dash lights, turn signals, tires, wheels, lift kit, full roof, windshield, it became an addiction. Next was the matching enclosed trailer decaled to match our last coach. I sold all of it when we bought the wrangler, its only a little bigger than the golf cart and I can drive it anywhere. I'm like Tim the tool man Taylor, always doing something to make it go faster.

http://www.adventurerv.net/water-regulator-adjustable-p-8934.html?gclid=CNbEq-m9u80CFVYdgQod8LcKRw&utm_campaign=partsfeed_ppc&utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=Froogle Its adjustable, plus my whip hose and quick disconnect it adds up.

Ok, just got my fuel sample results back. Cetane was only 41 (almost bunker fuel not diesel, which is pretty bad) (50 would be good) and I have bacteria in the fuel, the stuff in my filter was waste from the micro organisms (yea, the same stuff in your black tank ) and fungi was also discovered (the slimy stuff on my filter when I cut it open). It could be much worse than it is so we are going all Rambo on it. 2oz of the Tank Tonic will kill all of it, (yea its that strong). None of it can be seen in the tank with the human eye, which is the good thing, I have heard of floating bacteria in diesel tanks which would be an entire different process to remove that. So I am hitting the fuel system with the following products and stocking up on filters in my under storage since once it dies and gets passed into my filters I have a feeling they will not last long. Thank Monaco for placing them right out in the open, I can change them and prime the system in less than 10 minutes with an Allen key and the DW cycling the ignition 3-4 times. So here is what the cocktail is; "Tank Tonic" for the bacteria/fungi and "DZL Clean" just to clean out the nozzles (a little extra to make all of the sub systems operate better). I have already added "Diesel Mate" to the system to get my Cetane up, stabilize the fuel and keep that injection pump well lubed and happy. Plus its a fuel stabilizer so my fuel quality should hold its own after with any residual remaining during a fill up. I will pull another sample after I run this tank out and see where it stands with the fuel condition. Looks like I will always add Diesel Mate moving forward to keep it maintained after I get rid of the bacteria. The next trip should be full of adventure .

I thought it would be a big deal Monaco told me you must replace the entire handle for $150.00 each, so like everything else I took it apart to see how it worked and found them on line. One handle was hard to separate but with some spray oil and determination it came apart, there are O-rings on the tube top that were stubborn on the outside handle.

Oldgrape, we run ours on the original modified sine wave 2000 watt with no problems what so ever. When it goes we will upgrade to probably a 2500 watt Pure sine wave, no need to at this point in time. We only use the inverter to charge cell phones while driving and run the refrigerator, anything else we use the generator. We have boondocked overnight often with this configuration and no issues. I have no idea what the draw is on it, I called GE they were no help on the phone, so I bought it, ran an extension cord to the box, plugged it in and let it cool and run for a few hours, I told Home Depot if it didn't work I would call them for a return. It worked and that was almost two years ago.

williames, Both of ours were not working on our HR (2002 Imperial) They were simple to change the bulbs and cheap. Link below: https://www.amazon.com/ITC-86430-LED-ASSEM-DB-Replacement-IllumaGrip/dp/B00K779EH6/ref=pd_lpo_263_bs_t_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=9AX7D3X3CD3MP5QXV3R5 Just remove the handle from the wall or staircase, you will have two wires coming out of one end, unplug or cut, take that end chrome cap off and the bulb pulls out. If you search around they are now available in several different colors. Ours are wired to the porch light switch. Just be sure to caulk around the handle upon installation so you do not create any water leaks on the outside handle.

Mike, good to know, I may look into those for one door I have that I have to crawl under to access.

Anyone know what this solenoid is labeled as that has caused so many to become stranded, no starts etc. I carry one as a spare but when I open up my power distribution bay there are several back there. I was thinking battery cutout but not sure.

Yea, I have heard its that way.

Ok Rich, your turn, sounds like a good story......

Mabel, that was a good story. I'm pretty sure we have all been there before , I know I have anyway. I removed our toilet on the last coach to repair it, hooked up the water hose and turned it on, not thinking about the toilet line open, yep I remembered when I saw water. My wife's response was priceless "there are easier ways to clean the carpet you know". we still laugh about it. Another one; We often camp with friends with a travel trailer, they have no black tank flush, so in order to flush their tank they fill the tank by blocking the foot pedal down. Well, we were out last year and they blocked the pedal down....and forgot about it, we were all sitting outside and someone says "do you hear water running?" With that they both jumped up one running for the door the other running for the waste valves. I am sure there are some pretty good stories out there.

Wow, there has been a huge amount of failures in the past two weeks. That is the same way ours started to go, I think it went maybe another 7 days of use before it stopped completely.

Kay, I just might take you up on that. Is the parking lot big enough for coach and toad, 56' total?

If it weren't for employment I would be down there also. From the first thought of precipitation to at least the end of March its messy up here. My jeep also isn't allowed out of the driveway in that window the other cars are disposable, if you like them too bad they wont last.

I refuse to move it out of the driveway into the salt and salt brine. Everything will get moved but in two years it will be all rotted out . We looked at an American Dream when we were shopping the underside had holes in it, no thanks. If I could I would, believe me. It's so bad it gets dusty, our oil samples at work in the winter have higher sodium levels from the dust getting sucked into the engine.

David, glad to hear from you and to hear your experience has gone well for you. Is the coach level when you are experiencing this issue? My opinion of those Norcolds is not good after the experience we had with ours. If it were me I would replace it with a residential unit, but that depends on what you use the coach for(boondocking or you mostly have electric hooked up), and how your unit is equipped (inverter and battery supply). The removal of the existing unit also depends on the dimensions of your door opening, some coaches no side windows have to be removed to replace the unit, some they do (like in our case).If the Norcold has bit the dust I wouldn't replace it with another, IMHO they are too expensive and just do not perform well for all of the money you will spend on it. Yours just might need a simple fix and for that I am hoping someone else will chime in. Great idea for the fire suppression system for the refrigerator. Safety first!!

I actually thought you might have it already . Good luck with location a computer to store all of that information. You always seem to pull the rabbit out of the hat when asked for documents.

Rich, good to know and I figured you had it in you vast vault of information . I still think it would be in his best interest to figure it out and handle on his own if he has the skill level to do so. If you haven't noticed I have trust issues with service technicians, coming from that line of work the stuff I have seen in the last 23 years has been more than scary. Just when you thought no one would ever do that to someone's vehicle along comes the next one and we all stand there in shock.

I did ask, the explanation was bio has more water, due to a bi product of the manufacturing process, while the lubrication is higher so is the sludge which is another bi product or manufacturing that didn't go as planned. I avoid bio blended fuel while traveling when possible, it seems like its starting to pop up everywhere from 5%-20%. Supposedly it will remove water and breakdown the sludge that is common in bio blended fuels. I have often found it puzzling how a product could do both, but I am no chemist. We will see how it works. If it keeps me off the side of the road it was well worth it.

Just wanted to attach a link for the Bendix Gen 4 and 5 diagnostic and information book that was given to me by Monaco today. This is the ABS system that is very common on Roadmaster chassis in the early 2000's. The module is supposed to be located on all Monaco products under the drivers side arm rest (under the parking brake valve) and it gets its power from the front power distribution box compartment in front of the drivers side wheel. http://www.getteknikal.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/bendix-abs.pdf Just an FYI for everyone.

So I called Monaco tech support for my ABS diagnostics, mentioned the bucking experienced, the tech laughed and said the ISL will buck violently with a partially blocked fuel filter, he had no idea why the ISL acts different than the ISB or ISC (other than the pumps are completely different, the ISB and ISC are similar while the ISL is similar to the ISM and ISX). He also mentioned my main power solenoid in the rear of the coach, it looks original and from previous posts on FMCA I bought the Marine one mentioned (cant think of it at the moment) and I keep it as a spare, I may just install it into the coach and keep the old one as the spare, just for some piece of mind.

There has to be a shop manual somewhere to purchase for that chassis or someplace to call and get the proper specs. ta-da... https://www.ultrarvproducts.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=208 I would start here, call and see where it goes.