jleamont

Thank you. And I will replace all three.

Bill, now we definitely need to meet up, I have to see this for myself. I'm making my way around this coach also.

I carry one, love that tool.

Can you flip them open and look up inside where the inlet screen/filter is? I have metal vents in the ceiling they get so cold they will condensate, drives me nuts I walk around with a towel drying them when it happens, usually caused by an open door or window.

Call me crazy but the slightest air leak will make me sick and I will worry about it constantly. I recently observed mine taking longer to build air. I noticed it at a CG, I actually had to rev the engine to build air. My air line was leaking between the compressor and dryer. $65.00 and 45 minutes later I replaced it. Funny it builds air so fast now it must have been leaking for a while, this coach never would air up so fast. it was so close to the engine I couldn't hear the leak without crawling under it while it was building air.

Brett, would a 1997 have a MAP sensor? i don't recall if that year is the B or E of the 3126. When the OP mentioned 5v usually it's an ECM reference voltage sensor problem. MAP sensor open circuit will cause no boost.

Update; made it to Maine no problems. 500 miles or so. When I got close to the CG I noticed a very slight power loss and my boost gauge would go to 26 psi now only peaking at 22 ish. So I swapped both fuel filters at the CG, few days later went on our way to Massachusetts. Power back at full now boost gauge back at 26 psi. Topped off the tank in Maine along the way, put more Diesel Mate in it. When get home I will cut them open to see what's in side.

Minor problem....odor from the vent under my sink in the back. I have a vent to the left of the P trap that sits higher than the P trap. I remember a post on these but I cannot locate it. I am unsure how the vent is supposed to work, but it is exhausting some grey tank odor, doesn't bother me but DW is complaining. what is it called and can I get it at a home improvement center? the orange guys are just down the street. thanks

Carl, both are electric power gear rack and pinion type design, very simple. I will have to look and see. Our carpet isn't horrible but shows its age. I was considering some other options but the slide had me concerned. The carpet ends at the couch portion and runs all he way under the steering wheel which I hate, then switches to Ceramic tile in the kitchen area all the way back to the footing of the bed,which we love the look. DW loves the feel of carpet on her feet so it just might be carpet again. Not a battle I want to fight . my kitchen and couch are on the front slide and it's only maybe 18" deep.

Erniee, I was wondering the same. Can't speak to the front slide but the rear has the bed on it. We have rollers built into stainless steel plates mounted to the floor, there are stainless plates on the opposing side of the bed frame that they ride on. Have you found that if common on one slide in the same coach the other is too?

Ha, I meant my fuel fills have no plumbing. Some have hoses on each side to feed the tank, my fills are like on a truck, right on the tank itself

I almost bought a Country Coach Intrigue before the HR we have now. Beautiful coach, well made great reputation! They are still in existence like Carl A mentioned above, when I called them to inquire about parts (body, most others are universal) they are remaking nose caps and other parts now and their service center is open in Oregon and that was in 2013. Depending on the year, power plant and condition I wouldn't shy away from it unless I saw something that was a concern. Roger, I'm sure you have the inspection side covered, worth a look if it will suite your needs.

Herman, my fuel fill is on a slight angle and what you pour in comes back out, a funnel or nozzle are a must unless you want it on your hands and feet. Is yours the same on your Monaco? My neck on the fill in only 6-10" deep with a brass cap and you are into the fuel tank, I can actually see into the tank and have no plumbing connecting to the tank.

Yea, I was surprised they told me it wasn't necessary, made me feel better about their trustworthiness. I saw how its done, I guess if my fuel looked like the fuel in the videos I would just have to do it. Believe me, there will never be fuel added to this coach without an additive going forward. I was considering an auto injection system to add it without doing more than pushing a button at the time of fill up. Since I like engineering and fabrication stuff like that I just might do it. It will save me the time to remove the funnel from the coach, make sure its clean, and pour it in while at the pump and getting that stuff on my hands and putting it all away after. Since the additives are not a scientific precise measurement and more only hurts your wallet I might come up with something.

Graphics use 303 protectant. Maybe someone has another product recommendation?

Our last coach had bad oxidation (no paint), bad enough water would leach through the glass (i'm pretty sure the previous owner never washed it let alone take care of the exterior). While it wasn't cheap I had a mobile service that came through a CG in Florida wash, wax and condition the fiberglass, clean and treat the roof, shine the tires, clean the awnings etc, the old girl looked like new and they charged me $450.00 to do all of it. Our coach was 11 years old at the time and I thought that was a good deal. Its not a simple job and you have to know what you are doing for the end result to look good. They told me had it not been for the oxidation or if I had full paint it would have been $250.00.

ObedB, Blake made a good point that I had forgotten about, give it a try, if still no good call around for a thermostat. Don't forget Stoltzfus RV in West Chester PA, a little far from you but they have a decent inventory of parts, in a pinch I will run to them.

floridarandy, 36' Diesel would be an interesting coach, I have seen small Diesel Class A's before and they look neat. One thing to keep in mind while shopping is overall quality of the coach, look a the fine details inside type of wood, is it real wood, the manufactures reputation for quality etc.. Take a look at how it was taken care of by the previous owner, most rv dealers will show it in its worse condition, while that drives my DW crazy It gives me a feel on how the previous owner took care of it. Floor plans; keep an open mind with these, what you think you might want might not work best for you, open it up, sit in different spots throughout the interior and take it all in. If it has slides on both sides and you like to sit out side under the awning, again open it up put the awning out and give it a try. A 4 slide coach or a coach with slides on the passenger/patio awning side wouldn't work for us, I spend a lot of my time in and out of the under storage compartments under the awning, the slide hanging above me would be in my way and all it would do is add lumps to my head, since no one would be inside the extra interior space would be a waste, to keep it closed just creates a tighter interior than if it wasn't there in the first place. This one is a miss for most people; close all slides and walk around the interior, ask yourself, can I access the things I would need while on the road, i.e toilet, shower, kitchen (cabinets, refrigerator). While on the road often times you cannot open up the coach if you stop in a rest stop for the night or a parking lot, be sure you can still function and be comfortable with the slides closed in this situation. Hope this helps, one other thing, if the dealer makes you promises they do not keep walk away before you sign for it, while it may be frustrating and a disappointment there is another dealer somewhere that will want to earn your business. good luck

ObedB, I agree a drain would be great especially if it was a low point drain with a sump like the older tractors were equipped with to remove water from the tank. I considered having the fuel polished but I was told its not that bad no need . There is a local company in Delaware county that performs this work, $862.00 was the cost they quoted me. I'm going to run it into New England and see how it goes, I figured I have plenty of extra filters and.....well what the heck.

Carl, the coach hasn't moved, I didn't want to run it until that stuff was dead since it multiplies so rapidly. Now I know it is I will be running that tank out Friday. here is what I had...cooties is what it is http://www.diesel-bug.com/diesel-bug-information.html I have three of each filter with me ready to swing them out when I arrive in Maine Saturday.

Update: the products listed above worked. No Diesel Bugs alive, all dead. Oddly the percentage of them also dropped and I pulled the sample from the bottom of the tank on both sides. Not sure of the product dissolved them or what happened, not complaining. My Cetane jumped up to 47 which isn't great but not horrible either. Now comes the cleanup as the leftovers get pulled into my filters. Hitting the road Friday, cant wait to see how it performs.

movingon06, I chased air leaks on our coach several times. Check to see if you have a connection in the front of the coach below or around the generator for a tow truck to connect to, mine was exhausting air from that and I have an air port in my drivers side compartment where my fuel tank and propane tank are for connecting an air hose, that was leaking also. Beyond all of my air tank drain valves leaking that was all I was able to find. I found soapy water and a spray bottle to be very effective in chasing air leaks. If you decide to crawl under the coach just be sure to place safety stands under it before crawling under to look for leaks.

That's a new way to put it

Herman, the secret is definitely in the chemicals. I bought the kit from this small company. It came with all of the tools, scrapers, goggles gloves, spray bottles everything you could ever think of including wax and polishing pads. Watch the video in the end is the guys cell phone number. I met him in person right after we bought the coach in a campground in Pigeon Forge TN July 2014, he charges $1000 materials and labor to do the job, I believe the kit from him was $400. Looking back I should have had him do it then. We used steam, my friend bought a Shark household steam cleaner for $8.00 in a thrift shop, it was slow but worked. He is working on his Tiffin now with the leftovers. He has the Diamond Shield, I had the 3M version. Here are the steps; Day 1, pre treat, cream product you apply the day before two times, it is like paint stripper on the shield, it loosens it. No affect on the BASF paint Monaco used in these years. day 2, steam and scrape the shield off. The kit comes with two different size scrapers for the shield removal process. Apply the glue remover supplied and the glue melts off, just scrape it off with the supplied plastic scraper he supplies a pack of plastic blades and two different size scrapers these are in addition to the other two mentioned above. Wash the front and hand polish the paint. I haven't polished it yet waiting for some of the touch up work then I'm going to have the entire coach polished after it sets up. I tried 3m adhesive remover just to compare, no good, the glue didn't respond at all. The products in his kit were like nothing I had ever seen. My friend that helped is a body shop manager, he couldn't believe how strong that BASF paint is, it's like scraping crud off of a piece of glass.

gayleking, are you hooked up to a water source i.e campground water spigot? if so turn it off and see if it works now.