jleamont

Here it is...this is the one I carry under my coach, yea, yea, yea, call me crazy https://store.snapon.com/US-Torque-Instruments-ft-lb--Torque-Wrench-Adj-Click-Type-U-S-Fixed-Ratchet-120-600-ft-lb-3-4-drive-P640969.aspx Kay, my hair stood up when I read that, all I could think was the posts with the aftermath. I feel like maybe they are not all bad....??? I would feel more comfortable with a local truck repair shop I cant help but think they would value every customer more than CW would, my #1 concern is how much experience does any shop have with workhorse chassis?

I just ordered a case of this product, "Diesel Mate" http://northamerica.certifiedlabs.com/products-fuel-quality.html Recommended by a friend that just went to a diesel fuel lab class to discuss how bad the new fuels are. Expensive but if it saves me one breakdown its worth it.

I'm not so sure I would go that route, coming out of that business most mechanic's don't torque anything besides intake manifolds and cylinder heads. Not knowing your skill level id bet you would be better off taking on the DIY project yourself, if you knew enough to ask for the torque specs you just might know more than the shop staff at CW. I would try to narrow down and locate the specs for your chassis and just do it.

Roger, I figured that's where everyone was at, its been quiet on here. I also use a foam product like the one you described. Thank you for the response. Joe

I was thinking the same when I saw that Roadking, Welcome!

Roy, our class C was the same as you described. we would also sway and lean like it was going to lay on its side. Very exhausting to drive. here is what I did to correct it. Installed a rear axle track bar. http://www.supersteerparts.com/products/supersteer-trac-bar-e350.html Replaced the front and rear sway bars with RoadMaster sway bars. http://www.supersteerparts.com/products/motorhome--rv/class-c/ford-econoline-class-c/ford-e350.html Installed Bilstein shocks on the front and rear. Shocks are on the same page as the other parts above. I called them for a package deal and they discounted it all. That eliminated 98% of my fatigue, expensive but well worth it.

I was hoping you would see this and chime it. this is right up your alley of expertise.

Sherry, ours started to fail the same way, freezer seemed to be fine the refrigerator was holding a whopping 56 degrees.

Great kit but it would require some mods to fit an ISL. I would need a block for the sensor and fittings to locate it after the secondary filter since my coach is plumbed with JIC hydraulic type fittings.

Thanks, now on to the ABS light, I have to call Monaco tomorrow to get a list of abs fault codes, seems like a power problem to the module the way the light was flickering like a strobe light.

Herman, I owe you one, or a few. Hope our paths cross. BBQ on my Traeger and some cold ones are in order.

Rich, do you have a recommendation for a device like this?

I will say I have never had a fuel filter as the end result for a bucking compliant. They were always lack of power, must be something with the CAPS design.

Bill, my lift pump is producing a little over 7 psi (mechanical gauge) . I have no way to test flow but i can tell you it's like a garden hose

Got home 2hrs ago no issues at all. I cut the primary filter open and it had the same crud we get in tractors at work, it looks like cold bacon grease sludge, common up here but only in the winter. But the trip home didn't end without something acting up. My ABS light was flickering like a strobe light and flashed out a 17, 19 and 6 code, or that was what it looked like anyway. Rich, do you have a code list for these?

Rich, I replaced all of the fuel lines in July of 2014 when the line failed between the tank and the primary filter, I pulled a Rambo and replaced all rubber lines at that time and the lift pump. Something that dawned on me last night, up in the NE we have winter blends of diesel, those blends will strip and clean the inside of the fuel tank resulting in more junk headed to the filters. I hadn't given it much though before but this coach would have had a few tanks of it in the end of last season and the beginning of this season. It causes problems at work with filters only lasting a short time since I don't actually fill this in winter it is still in the tanks from October through March and there will be residual into April and May. these lines were the reason I thought the pump went bad from it starving for fuel so often two years ago, that couldn't have been good for it. good thing my filters are right out in the open.

Obedb, it's great until it breaks. I am a firm believer of KISS also. Believe me it wasn't a selling point. I thought great one more thing to keep my eye on.

My last coach I bought mine from these guys. http://www.supersteerparts.com It worked great!

This might sound crazy. Interior trim paint. Match up a color, prep it and spray. I have bought used salvage yard parts before that were the wrong color and looked worse and that stuff was great.

Herman, thanks tomorrow will be the test. Bill, no gauge here, sitting at a campground in Bethany Beach Delaware. The lift pump sounds fine key on engine off and once it starts the CAPS pump takes over and the lift pump shuts off. When I pulled the primary filter there was what looked like lawn grass (just two little pieces) next to the O ring. Which had me scratching my head. Both filters have maybe 2500 miles on them but as you both know it only takes one tank top off of garbage fuel to create a problem. I did run it low on the last trip, could be some crud in the tank that got pulled into the filters. Love to know where lawn clippings came from. I really do not feel like tossing a $3500 pump in this coach. I will post tomorrow on how it acted. thanks guys!

Both changed, tomorrow will tell.

Herman, what the heck I'll give that a shot. I carry doubles of each. Strangely it didn't lack power just bucked, spit and kicked and I took off. Thanks

Well, my CAPS pump is dying or that's what it feels like anyway. After 100 miles the coach began to buck violently when pulling away from a stop intermittently, only seems to happen on occasion under a heavier load, no engine fault codes yet but is suspect they will happen on the return trip home. we got to the CG but I am wondering how the trip home will go. When it's not bucking it runs as it always has. More to come.

Bill, Welcome! Good decision to join, lots of useful information from friendly people on here.

Hoping Roger chimes in on this one. What do you use to clean your tires? Any products to avoid that might accelerate degradation (aka dry rot)? I have often thought of using Wesley's Bleach White tire cleaner on the motorhome to remove the brown build up and then reapply the 303 protectant I use to keep the UV exposure to a minimum. At the moment I just wash them along with the coach with car soap. I use that product on our car tires but they wear out long before age out, so what is a good practice not to accelerate degradation when performing routing cleaning?