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I use a map when I have not been there before. Directions from men are usually better than from ladies but not in all cases. Trusting GPS based systems while driving large vehicles can be dicey at times. I am against the grain so I expect some flames, but my Air Force father taught me to read maps when I was in the third grade. I have expanded on those skills over the years. Would not have a GPS system in any of my vehicles, period!!! What did we do twenty years ago??

Something different here. Owned our 2003 Phaeton for 16 months. Always extended the slides after leveling and plugged into park power (engine off). Started having a little trouble on our way to Colorado. Tapped on the solenoid using a wrench with success. Last week at the KOA in Limon the slides would not come in. Felt the solenoid and it was warm to the touch though it had done nothing but receive a short jolt of 12 volts. Paid for another day guessing the solenoid was bad. Quick removal and off to NAPA for a replacement. They found a "will fit," and the installation was easy. Hit the in button on both slides and nothing happened. Got on a Tiffin oriented site and read an old response about the ignition key being on. Turned the key on and the slides worked. Never had to do that before??? We are at the Heart of the Rockies RV site on US 50 west of Poncha Springs. The manager lives in an identical 40 Phaeton so I mentioned the event to him. He assured me that his slides can be moved with the ignition off. He even double checked to be sure he was right. Oh well/ I now have a spare solenoid, but still puzzled by why things changed after 16 months. It will always be an adventure when I operate them from now on.

I hate it when fuses blow! What caused it?

I also open the door next to our central vac (Dirt Devil) to ventilate the unit. In the event of failure, we would buy a portable unit. Still have plenty of storage available for " new stuff ."

Ours is turned on with a switch on the panel that displays liquid levels, propane, etc. it is next to the Xantrex display in a compartment above the entrance steps covered by what looks like a cabinet door.

The problem seems to have gone away. The condensation on both units runs onto the roof normally.

CD's problems and others that I have read about have made me reluctant to use the dash air. I use it, but very sparingly. On a hot day we run the generator and at least one rooftop a/c to keep our cats comfortable. I turn both defroster fans on. They are mounted in the upper corners of the windshield and they do help when aimed at the driver's and DW's seat. I brought new spare belts just in case.

Thanks All. Kinda thought I would have to get up top again. Will miss my extension ladder.

Front rooftop a/c sometimes drips water onto the carpet. Suggestions will be appreciated.

We left PA last Wednesday on our annual trek to Colorado. We are taking our time. Each day the Winegard Traveler looks for the three satellites from a different location. Takes a little more time to link up when compared to stowing and starting a day or two later in the same place, which was the case when our RV was in a storage area as I slowly chipped away at my "to do list". It never fails to find strong signals and does it far sooner than dragging out a portable dish, expensive meter, and then starting the process that can take quite some time to complete. Five to seven minutes max. Compare that to trying to aim a portable dish. Very happy so far.

If your rv has no overheating problems I-77 will be OK. Best to run in the early hours after daylight in a gas powered unit pulling a car. Keeps the outside temp down helping the radiator. I-81 north from the I-77 intersection has a couple of grades to pull, but not as steep as 77. Now I say this with many years driving an 18 wheeler under my belt. As has been mentioned, I-81 is a nicer ride than 95 and more scenic. Safe Travels.

I hope that my original post is not considered bragging on my part. A pro would have been laughing at me for taking so long. When one is retired their is a lot of time available to be really careful about a project. My point is that if I can do it, there are many owners out there that can do it also. I have seen a lot of discussion about the Traveler on websites. Maybe my experience can help to save some $$$$. Ours was purchased from Solid Signal in Michigan. $1569, no tax and free second day arrival by FedEx. The tube of Dicor was about $9. That is it. I am sure that I remember dealer installed prices well above $2200. The unit worked perfectly/ no calls to customer service required. I have heard that they are very helpful if you need them though. They are in Iowa not somewhere overseas.

I remember where I read about compressors seizing up. Perhaps a bad run in 2007 for a bit. It was on tiffinrvnet.com. A poster even mentioned that he had a second shorter serpentine belt that could bypass the compressor pulley and still power everything else. 40 feet away would one even hear it?

Paid Jefatech $20 and change for UPS second day air. It was here in less than 24 hours. Very substantial looking unit. The router is large with two antennas. Might hook it up at home for a trial run. Had Verizon DSL yesterday afternoon through the evening. No DSL today again. Have had good service with them over the years, but lately they are not dependable. Maybe I will get lucky with the new amplifier.

Finally finished the installation. The box has been in the basement for a week or so. Big/ 4 x 2 feet by 18" high. 72lbs. A company about 500 feet from the storage area agreed to set the box on top and wanted no$$. I slid it between the Dometic roof vent and the Fantastic Max Air topper with no room to spare. Safe for the 500 foot trip back to storage. That was birthday # 71. Stopped right there and headed to the Texas Roadhouse with Betty. Next day I installed the Traveler on the centerline between the front ac and the vent fan topper. More than enough room to meet install requirements.Nine screws and lots of Dicor. Time to quit/ 90 degrees. Next day/ routed the two cables forward to a suitable entry point. In they went. Put the supplied cap in place with lots of Dicor. Another 90 degree day. Two days later (today) it was time for the final reckoning. The day of days/ $1569 later. Arranged all of the inside electronic parts in the front overhead cabinets. Fired everything up and actually read the instructions. After the usual wait for anything Direct TV to boot up, low and behold it worked. Transponder #s in the high 90s to even some 100s. All with the touch of a button. Programs in high def wide screen just like that. Was it easy for a non expert/ especially my age? Absolutely NO. Was it satisfying to do, saving five or six hundred in the process/ Yes!!! We have been with Direct TV for 20 years. Always did my own installations. Used the pie pan dish in 18 wheelers for years. This was more for my wife than me because she does love TV. I get the satisfaction of being able to do it in spite of the warnings that I heard. It just beats the hades out of RV Park cable.

C Crane is back ordered with their unit. I ordered the Jefatech unit today. Little more $$ but I hate the typically poor RV park WIFI and I do love the Internet. Been dealing with junky service for a couple of weeks now. Verizon DSL with call center in India. I know that there are some really smart people over there, but the accent!!!

If you have experience with an automotive air conditioner continue on a DIY basis. Probably a leak as already been said. Once you find and correct the leak, you will need to add the correct amount of refrigerant, but you will also probably have to add refrigerant oil in the correct amount. Leaks usually diminish the oil and I remember reading that compressors 2007 and newer are prone to seizing up because of the lack of oil. When that happens you could lose an important belt. Perhaps a tow truck to a repair facility? A/C is usually not worked on the shoulder. You might save a lot of trouble and $$$$$ if you took your problem to a pro. My two cents.

Mounted ours with the ordered brackets on the ladder.

The low hanging crossover line went away sometime ago. Probably because of fuel spills when running over something such as recap rubber lying on the road. My 2001 Western Star had the "new and improved version" that supposedly equalizes from the top. It was common when running down the road to see different levels when you stopped. The transfer pump draws from only one tank. Check the fuel line to the engine from one tank or the other and you will know which tank it draws from. Also suggest not running your rig quite so low until you figure out the cause. If you decide to pump only a small amount of fuel into your rig make sure you put it into the tank that the engine draws from.

Well, if it is just the parking brake, than I see the value of that. Air pressure releases the parking brake. Makes sense. That way a loss of air pressure will not allow the unit to roll if parked. There have been air pressure released spring brakes, on trucks for many many years and also on air braked vehicles of other sorts including DPs. The change over to air released spring brakes on 18 wheelers started in the sixties. It is a much safer system. I remember 18s without them/ scary when I look back.

Desert Deals/ You must be quite the wrench. Wish that I had those skills. I think of myself as a better than average shade tree mechanic (amateur). Won't bore you with some of the stuff I have done over the years, but the body is not as willing as in years past. I really have not heard of air over hydraulic. We had big 4 wheel hydraulic disc brakes on our Oshkosh chassis, and managed the Rockies OK. I am really happy to have full air drum brakes now.

Air over hydraulic? Gotta be kidding me. Really?? Sorry but who thought that up? My apologies to the poster having the problem, but the motorhome industry never ceases to amaze me.

Extreme Simple Green is supposed to be the gold standard. Designed for aircraft aluminum. Just short of $18 a gallon on Amazon. My Cat 330 rear radiator unit has never overheated even on long western grades, but mostly in the fall. Just over 21,000"miles on the odometer. Still have not done mine but it will happen in the next several days. Engine belts have recently been replaced/ all from below by a local shop. My plan is to get underneath with a large breaker bar and pull the belt off of the tensioner. Then I will be able to move the fan to more easily coat the CAC with a 50/50 solution of Extreme Simple Green. The hose off will also be much easier. I plan on using pressure washing on the outside of the radiator at a nearby car wash. Believe me/ it does not compare with the pressure washer that I have at home. Place has been there since the early seventies with no upgrades. Opinions are welcome .

I-81 north to Scranton PA and then East on I-84 gets you into Connecticut with much less trouble. From Hartford you can head north to the Mass Pike or south to New Haven and I-95. I say this because I am getting a feeling that many people use GPS systems rather than a map. Looking at a map gives you the big picture. My dad taught me to read maps while I was in grade school, and over the years I have grown so accustomed to them I have never needed a GPS. Too old to change now.

You are absolutely right about things falling apart quickly. Of course the Tireman will breeze right thru. I sometimes took I-70 to Indianapolis , took I-74 to Bloomington Illinois, and then I-39 north to Rockford, I'll. A short stretch of toll road and there was the Wisconsin Line. Further but much more peaceful.