desertdeals69

I have been using a strong magnet on the oil filter for about 7 years. Its so strong its almost impossible to remove. You have to slide it off. I have put 115,000 miles so far. I can't remember the manufacturer but I got it at a trade show.

The tank came out of a 98 discovery on a freightliner chassis. It has a remote fill with the switch to close the valve at the tank so you can fill the tank with the remote fill fitting. The other plumbing is straight forward, just a tee as the valve position control which tank you are using.

Have you used all 30 gal in 30 hours? I have a Onan 6300 propane gen. Originally it was plumbed into the same tank as used for the other appliances. It runs on liquid so I added a 38 gallon with a liquid withdraw tube and mounted it between the frame rails just ahead of the rear end. Because the original tank had two outlets, one vapor and one liquid it is easy to tie the liquid lines together with the ability to select which one is being used. Manual shut off on the original tank and electric solenoid valve on the center mounted tank. When I am using the gen for charging batteries and some cooking and ac use I average about 1/2 to 5/8 gallon per hour. I have installed high efficiency ac's and cook using induction cook top.

I have done a simular install. Just remember if you change anything you become the manufacturer in the eyes of the law and therefore legally liable. In the past I have spent a week at a time at Park City skiing. I went to the hardware store and bought 3/4 inch styrofoam sheet and used an electric knife to cut out the size of the window frame of all the windows and the windshield. This cut my propane usage in half!

Look for the thermocouple location. I have a 275 ISB and I mounted mine 2 inches behind turbo exhaust flange. My temp is about 1150 at 24 pounds of boost.

You might check with K&N and see if they have a filter assembly available now. I have been running one of theirs for a little over a year. The housing is about 1/8 inch larger so I had to extend the mount straps. It does have the removeable filter element so it can be serviced the K&N way. You should check the indicator to see if the filter needs replacing or service.

The reason you need an escort is traffic has to be blocked so that you can run down the centerline of the road for maximum clearance. I ran through the tunnel back in the 70's before repaving and had more clearance. I would not take a chance now. Watchman campground is a good choice. One of the few national parks with electric hook ups.

I have invested about $75k including the purchase of the coach. What I had listed was about half of what I have done.

I was in the rv repair business for a good many years, retiring 12 years ago. My hobby is modifying and upgrading my motorhome. My total investment is about 1/5 of what most have spent on their rigs. Anyone interested in seeing our coach, we will be a Madison in August.

Getting the best possible fuel milage has always been a goal of mine. Slowing down will usually get you better milage. Back in the 70's when the speed limit was 55 I discovered after getting 5-6 mpg I was now getting 7-8! This was with gas class A's which I had to slow down from 75+ mph. With regard to the first post, I have found that an engine change delivered my desired results. I started out with a 5.9 mechanical Cummins 190 hp. It was getting 7-8 mpg. I changed the injector pump and injectors for increased power. It ran much better however ran hot and I didn't have enough gears, only a 4 speed no overdrive. Slight increase in milage. I decided to change engines. I selected a ISB electronic Cummins coupled to a Allison MD3060 six speed. I changed out the steel springs with air suspension and changed the front end to a Tuthill independent front suspension, with a Roadmaster swaybar. Changed the rear axle with a Rockwell 1520 and also went from 19.5 wheels to 22.5 Alcoas in all six positions. In March we left Arizona to go to Perry FMCA and got 11.003 mpg and when we left Perry and went to Pigeon Forge Tn we got 11.034mpg. Our toad is a Chevy Silverado 1/2 ton

All I was pointing out was that the membership parks can be utilized when conveniently located. Most of our nights are not spent in a TT campground as we are off the beaten path exploring. The campground does not dictate where we have ever gone, just if its there we'll use it.

We bought a thousand trails and naco nationwide membership on ebay for $99 several years ago. Our annual fee is $586. The past year we stayed 92 nights, thats just over $6 a night all with electric, most with water, and some with sewer. Although we can stay only 2 weeks we can go to the next one the same day. We also have discounts at Encore with some of encores costing only $3/night.

I have traveled about 400 thousand miles in ten different motorhomes in the last 35 years and have never been without a spare tire and equipment to change it. You never know when your going to need to use it. Waiting for hours or even days to get the correct replacement is not something I want to endure. I invested in professional tire changing tools to get rid of having to use crowbars to change tires on the wheels. I discovered a damaged outer dual tire and changed it 3 days ago. I have built a carrier underneath the frame which uses an electric winch to lift the spare wheel off the ground. My tire size is 235/80/R22.5. I have had to change about 10 tires/wheels on the road.

After traveling all 48 states at least twice back in the 70's, the outer banks islands is our favorite. We are headed that way now and will be there in about two weeks. We have always stayed in the national parks campgrounds because of the location and the park service programs. The fee has increased somewhat (up to $10 for old people)and we don't need full hook ups because we are totally self contained.

How old is the unit? Usually when the door seal is old and cracked it's time to replace the whole refrigerator. With perfect care they last 8 to 12 years. That is if not run unlevel. The seal should be replaceable by itself. Check with the Norcold.

Tap into the tank where the compressor regulator is hooked to. The reason for this is that if you use air from another tank, the compressor, because of check valves, might not come on when the pressure is lowered. Remember if you or anyone else changes the air system from the way it was manufactured you become the manufacturer in the eyes of the law. That makes you liable for any problems that might arise.

On my Silverado truck, which I tow, I had the DRL burn out on a regular basis. Upon investigation I found that the bulb used is a standard stop/tail bulb which the stop filamment is for intermitant use which is why they have such a short life when constantly are on. I tried to correct the situation by using heavy duty bulbs. They lasted somewhat longer however the plastic sockets started to overheat. My next move was to install HID bulbs and ballasts. Works perfect and gives off a pure white light very visable in the daytime. They come on when the park brake is released.

Firestone, one of the manufactures of air bags, has said that for a ping tank to be effective the connecting tubing needs to be at least 3/4 inch id or larger. The problem is that the port on the rv size airbags is usually 3/8 or 1/2 inch. I have installed ping tanks with 1/2 inch tubing on my Tuthill 1050 IFS with no noticeable improvement in ride. I would have to machine the end plate of the bag to except a larger fitting.

Running the gen with a disconnected fuel line until it stops does not run all of the fuel out of the bowl and other parts of the fuel system. There is still fuel left that turns to a thick brown looking varnish. To prevent this from happening use a fuel stabilizer mixed in the gas prior to shut down. Make sure it is mixed in the gas tank, usually 1 oz per gallon and then run gen long enough to get the treated fuel into the whole system. This will also be beneficial for the main engine. This should keep the fuel usable some 6 to 12 months latter. The fuel stabilizer is available from Onan or even a product called Stabil at Walmart.

A few points to consider. I always recomend a pure sine wave because you never know what sensitive equiptment might be plugged in. With regard to recharging batteries most converters charge capacity is in the 30-40 amp range with an effective charge rate of only 15-25 amps. With a battery bank of 440 amp/hr discharged 50% you can see how long it would take to recharge even to 80%. Back in the 70's before inverter/chargers we had to build 100 amp chargers to use with then available pure sine wave only inverters. We recomend a battery bank would consist of 4 6 volt golf cart 110 minutes @ 75 amp draw, wired series/parallel for 220 minutes @ 75 amp draw. A modern inverter/charger could be simply wired with a 30 amp outlet which you plug in the shore cord. Since every thing would be connected care must be taken as to not to turn on the air conditioner, fridge, etc. however there be no extention cords required. Battery recharging would be done in a much shorter time period.

The removal is covered in the installation guide that comes from Norcold. It just snaps off.

The edge plastic snaps off and you slide in the panels. I made my own from door skins I bought at Lowes. Finished it to match my cabinets.

I have sold both systems having been a Winegard dealer for some 20 odd years and more recently with MotoSAT. Comparing the two I would say that MotoSAT has a more robust construction and doesn't have wires hanging out around the mechanism. Also I have found customer service has been better.

We have been using the Moto Sat slimline for 3 years with good results. It has 4 outputs so you can run 2 hd receivers with dvrs.

Does it stay running if you continue to hold the start button in? If so it maybe the voltage regulator.