desertdeals69

Check the brake light fuse, if the turn is on the same bulb the bulb is ok.

The banks will probably tell you that its for your own protection. The first time it happens to us call and tell them which states we will be in and the dates. We travel for 7 months at a time. If they won't do that switch banks, which we've had to do.

There is lots of room in Alaska. When in Chicken be sure to pan for gold.

From 120 volt shore or generator power to 12 volt to charge the batteries, through the converter or battery charger.

Probably for the dash ac condenser.

Propane regulator is set at 11 inches water column or 1/4 psi.

Try disconnecting the battery and reconnecting. Use the Intelletect switch if you have one.

When towing I always start out with a full tank of gas in the Silverado but also a full tank of diesel in the bed, 100 gallons.

I don't think that there is any frame work. They usually cut the 4" hole and screw the toilet flange in place and mount the toilet. If you have to go all the way through the total floor just block the opening all the way around by about 1" and then set the new floor piece in place and screw it together. Use glue to secure it.

What works for me, and I am a cheapskate, is two camper sleeping mats from Walmart for about $7 each and 5 or 6 bungee cords 6 foot long. I cut out for the tow brackets and air brake hose and light wires. Secure the mat with one mat on the bottom and the other mat tucked in above providing as much vertical coverage as needed. The bungee cords hook the bumper going across to the other side of the bumper. The ones higher up hook on each side of the fender. I have a Silverado and have towed it over 90,000 miles without one mark from debris. Total investment $20 and it goes on and off in about 5 minutes, rolls up and stores in a small space.

Using a lower gear is dependent on the torque converter, how good it locks up or if at all.

Some years ago I spoke to a fellow that had a Pace Arrow 36 and he said at the top of a steep hill he would slow down enough to put in into low gear and proceed down the hill at 10-15 mph otherwise he would overheat his brakes. That is one of the advantages of a diesel is the exhaust brake. I have gone down more than 9% downgrades and never had to use the brakes running 35-45 mph.

There are plug wires that are very high heat proof that will hold up under high temp of headers. Find them at a hot rod parts store.

If the engine is earlier that 1998 its a mechanical injection. The problem with upping the power is that the cooling system is not large enough and it will run hot. Also the intercooler is too small. My transmission was a four speed with no overdrive so the gearing was wrong. That is why I changed engine and trans. I spent a ton of money upping the power and in the end had to make the change.

I wouldn't use a router, I use an oscillating multifunction tool which is not so messy and more precise. By cutting down about a quarter of an inch at a time and peeling out the wood you can see what if anything is hidden. I have done this type of repair in RV's many times.

I have done this type of repair. Don't use a circular saw, use a multifunction tool with a straight blade and you can plunge cut and make square corner cuts. Draw a line outside of the rotten part and it is easiest to make it square or rectangle so fitting a new piece is easier. Cut down about a quarter of an inch and peal out that layer of wood. If you are lucky the rot will have not gone all the way through. There may be foam insulation sandwiched between two layers of wood. Just rebuild the thickness to a flush floor.

I have driven 40 foot coaches that do not ride as well as my modified 32 footer. As far as engine and transmisson upgrade I installed a ISB 275 and Allison 3060 which is not the fastest up a hill but gives me 11 mpg towing a 1/2 ton silverado.

I would cut out as much of the rotten wood as possible and then replace it with exterior plywood.

KOA is in Pigeon Forge.

We have stayed at Eagles Nest campground for 2 to 3 months at a time the last 4 out of 5 years. Very reasonable rates and friendly people.

We have a 32 foot Coachmen diesel pusher for the last 13 years and 120,000 miles. I've done some modifications to the chassis and upgraded engine and transmission. When it was stock it handled well but was lacking in power because it was an early 5.9 cummins.

With regard to the dump fee I had a conversation with a FJ rep and asked him to explain why they started charging for dumping. He said that alot of sewer systems that they are tied into have started charging a surcharge for rv waste because it took extra processing because of the chemicals we put in the tanks. He sited one city that was charging $30,000 a year extra, over and above the standard usage rate and that seems to be more and more common. $5 seems like a small charge.

Be sure to pan for gold when you get to Chicken.

The air space at the top of the tank is there for a reason. If you fuel the tank full to the top and don't drive and the weather is hot as the cool fuel heats up it expands and will over flow. Fuel that is in the storage tank under ground is rather cool.

Have you checked the fuse on the relay? I had a blown one onetime and it took me some time to find it.