tbutler

You are correct about the cover. When we got a new toad a few years ago I didn't do the cover. The first was installed prior to a trip to Alaska. I put a bra on the front of the motor home for that trip as well. As to the chips, I'm not easy on my equipment. I'm in it to get the most out of the travel. The current toad has been to Newfoundland and around the horn in Labrador. Newfoundland wasn't a problem but Labrador is a route that I really wouldn't recommend for the faint-hearted and would never do again until they have paved the entire route. We stirred up a whole lot of gravel and some of it pelted the toad. We did get to see a whole lot of wilderness scenery and learned a lot about Labrador in the process.

Roadrunner 2, with our 2012 GMC Acadia, the procedure sounds similar. We follow the manufacturer directions to the letter. I pull fuses (2) as specified. We also have a required start and run before driving. Our ignition key is supposed to be set in accessory position as opposed to the off position. Yes, we lose the clock on the radio but the preset stations are still there. We've never had the problem mentioned above regarding lights which just points out the variations that occur between model years.

What gauge is working? If the odometer reading doesn't show up, how do you know it is working? I would contact the manufacturer, American Coach, (800) 435 - 7345. They are part of the REV Group now.

For everything from campgrounds to Walmart, gas stations to rest areas, the ALLSTAYS Camp and RV app ($9.99 at the Apple Ap Store, also available for Android) is my go-to resource. It will show map location and give directions to any resource. You can even monitor your progress on the map as you drive to any resource. It also has reviews from people who have stayed at any location (including Walmart) and others. It indicates which Walmart's allow overnight parking and which don't. We do use RVParkReviews.com and an old paper copy of the Good Sam Campground directory occasionally. We also have a recent copy of the Next Exit which is useful only for interstate highway travel. For fuel, we use the Gas Buddy app. It has current prices, map locations and directions to the station of your choice. Yes, this is an old post brought back to life. There is a limit to how many resources can be shown on a paper map. One look at a resource like RVParkReviews.com or at ALLSTAYS Camp and RV will show you that there are hundreds of campgrounds that aren't listed in even a large book like the Good Sam directory. Some of those are not RV campgrounds but others are. Ditto with any other resource, Sam's Club, Walmart, Camping World, the list could go on and on. The information is there for anyone to access. The problem with paper is it's limitation in the information that it can convey. Digital is virtually (pun intended) unlimited. Not connected from your current location? Plan ahead, access the internet before leaving the digital world.

We used a tow dolly for our first year out. I sold it and have been flat towing ever since. There is one negative for flat towing that I see mentioned only once. Your "toad" will take a beating. I've used a custom canvas cover (Coastline Cover Company, 10096 6th St Ste L, Rancho Cucamonga, CA 91730 · (909) 484-6592) and a Guardian (front of car barrier from Brakemaster) and the car will still take a beating. Think what it would be like if you were stuck to the back of a tractor-trailer rig. We keep our cars until they are well worn and just live with the chips, etc. Our trade in value when we are ready to change vehicles (ten years old, 120,000 miles in tow and another 120,000 under power) is virtually $0. Well used and money well spent but definitely spent. I have a friend who trades his toad every two or three years, I don't know what kind of trade-in he gets. I agree that trailers are a challenge to deal with and they definitely are not in our future. We move frequently when traveling. If we didn't travel frequently then finding a place to park the trailer wouldn't be a constant hassle. That might make it a better choice for people who move only two or three times a year.

Our first winter out we stopped in San Antonio for a month (December). It's a lovely town and I enjoy visiting on our way into and out of the RGV (Rio Grande Valley). That first visit we decided the weather was cooler than we wanted so we continued on south to the RGV and have been staying there ever since. We've made Edinburg our home. After spending eight winters living in the motor home, we put a mobile home in a park there. We park our motor home next to our mobile which is very convenient. Each spring we pick up and head north to visit with family and tour parts of the US and Canada we haven't yet seen. Winter in the RGV is mild, seldom more than a couple of days below freezing. Winter type weather (cooler, cloudy) is usually confined to the months of December, January and February. We've experienced wet winters and dry winters. This last year the winter was mostly the month of November and we had pretty mild conditions after that. There is always a breeze in the RGV. Frequently it is a Texas sized breeze. Typically we're playing golf in 15 to 20 mile per hour winds. Even more fun is playing tennis in that kind of wind. The cost of living is very reasonable in the area. I just wrote a check for our annual lot rental. We are paying less than $300 per month (less than $3600) for an annual contract. RV lots are less expensive but if not on an annual contract the price will higher than the annual rate. Of course those rates vary from park to park depending on the facilities they offer. There are over 50 RV parks to choose from in the area with a range of conveniences from almost none to very nice full service parks. Many of the parks have a regular program of recreation, entertainment and social events throughout the winter months. We are just 80 miles from South Padre Island if we want sea coast. There are several RV parks on SPI. The McAllen/Mission/Edinburg/Pharr area is one large metropolitan area with all the stores and restaurants you would expect. There are numerous nature areas featuring the unique wildlife found along the southern border. The area is famous for the many birds and butterflies that cross the border and are found nowhere else in the US. There is a new performing arts center in McAllen and there are traveling shows regularly scheduled into the center. You should at least come spend a few days or weeks in the RGV just to see the area. We came to try it out for a few days and found a home base. I always recommend that you book into a park for whatever length of time you are comfortable with and then go exploring to see other parks and their facilities. There are so many choices available you should be able to find a "fit" among them.

You have just started driving a large vehicle. It will take some time to get comfortable handling your motor home in the close quarters you find in gas stations. Travel centers at truck stops often have more open pump areas. I would stick to the larger stations until you feel comfortable maneuvering around multiple vehicles and other obstructions. Look for stations where you can drive straight through for the initial fill-ups. I've been driving a motor home towing a car for seventeen years. I've developed an eye for stations that I can get into and out of without having to disconnect. Now I look more for the best prices not far from my intended route of travel. Usually low priced stations are grouped together (competition) so I frequently have several stations in the area with comparable prices. If one isn't good, I'll look at the next one. As I posted recently, one scraped panel on the motor home isn't worth a few cents savings on fuel. Until you are comfortable going into smaller stations, stay with the larger ones.

We've been using a water softener for three years now and mysteriously our sensors are working again! Don't bad-mouth electric toilets. Our Thetford Aria Deluxe II is now almost 14 years old with only a couple of visits to the toilet doctor. Works great, very durable. We go almost 2 weeks on a 40 gallon black water tank. If you have a problem with an electric, name it.

The shower is the problem because we stand under it. Louise runs water for dish washing. When she turns on the hot water, it starts cold and then goes hot. The result is water as warm as she wants it. I tried to mix the water from the bath faucet and when I got it comfortable to the feel, the water heater shut off. So the shower isn't different than the faucets in that respect. The shower is a single control, turning it off with the main valve works fine. Any way you turn it off, the water heater shuts off. Then when it is turned back on, you have some hot water in the line. To get the water heater started you have to run it on full hot, then turn it down when the hot water comes through again. The problem is when the water is adjusted to a comfortable temperature, the hot water flow isn't enough to keep the water heater working and the water from the water heater is cold which mixes with the cold water very well but doesn't mix with me.

No, Herman, it isn't a pressure problem. And yes, jleamont, I know that you run full hot to get the water heater started. When we bring in the cold water to balance the hot the amount (volume) of cold water needed to get a nice warm shower (even with Louise's version of a nice warm shower which is at least 10 degrees warmer than mine) reduces the hot water flow (the shower head will only allow so much water through those little holes). We are on a private pump at my daughters house in Missouri at present, plenty of pressure. We were on the water pump for a week last week while in Louisville for the Kentucky Derby. Neither worked for us. As soon as we get enough cold water into the mix the hot water flow drops below minimum and the water heater shuts off. If you increase the total flow then you have problems with a rapidly filling grey water tank. The only possible solution I can see is to check and verify that the low flow sensor is working properly. If it is working as designed then the water heater is not satisfactory for our use. I'm making plans to go back to the standard 10 gallon water heater.

I had a tankless water heater installed during the winter. We have been living with it for two weeks now. I spent an hour on the phone with technical help last week. I'm still trying to get satisfactory service from mine. It is a Precision Temp RV550. It requires a minimum water flow to activate. Even with a proper minimum flow, it sometimes does not light. There is a pressure sensor for the exhaust fan, adjusting that has taken care of the problem most of the time. The diagnosis for this, the tech had me just hold my hand in front of the exhaust port and the back pressure was enough to light the unit. I suggest you contact the manufacturer of your water heater and spend some time on the phone (or take it to a service center) and get it adjusted to function properly. My current problem is in adjusting the temperature down low enough so I don't have to add huge amounts of cold water to the shower. If too much cold water is added, the minimum flow of the hot water is below the minimum for the hot water heater and then it shuts off, instant cold shower! So far no help from technical help on this one. I'm beginning to think that this type of water heater is not suitable for RV's. I think there may be issues with the quantity of water needed to operate the water heater and the need to conserve water volume in the grey waste tank. Technical help began by suggesting that we run a hot water faucet while showering to keep the minimum hot water flow high enough to keep the water heater operating. That was a non-starter!

Our electric (Thetford Aria Deluxe II) has two settings, one for regular, like house use, and another minimum water use for RV use. With ours set on RV, we (two of us) go for two weeks before needing to empty the black water tank (40 gallons).

If you are thinking short periods of time when you don't use it, a few hours to a day, leave it on. If you are thinking longer than that,turn it off. It takes about 15 minutes to heat up the standard 10 gallon RV water heater so you can have hot water on short notice. When we were full time we usually left the hot water heater on unless we were going to be out of the motor home for a while. It is very important that you turn the water heater off while fueling if you are using it on gas. If on electric only, it won't hurt to leave it on while fueling.

I am one that believes the best person to service a Cummins engine is a Cummins shop. I usually go to a regional service center, preferably one that is a Coach Care Center. They will have electricity hook-ups available and are aware of motor home owners concerns. Yes, the price will be a little higher but I don't like to go cheap on preventive maintenance. Considering your investment in your coach, what is a few hundred dollars to make sure that the engine gets proper care. You will be certain of OEM parts and they give the engine a thorough inspection. If you get all fluids and filters replaced, the cost will be much greater than I see quoted above. At Cummins they can test fluids like the coolant and may save you money by testing to assure you that it meets their standards. I go to Freightliner for chassis work but Cummins does my engine work.

I haven't been to this campground but RV Park Reviews has a listing. There are several reviews from people who have stayed there.

I know the concern comes from membership numbers and a desire to keep membership high to support a full-service organization. It is, I think apparent to all that the motor home industry continues to produce far fewer motor homes than during the peak years. The reasons for this are not complicated. Fewer people are able to purchase motor homes. The cost of motor home ownership has risen faster than salaries and many people who are currently retiring are not beneficiaries of stable well-funded retirement plans. Not many people on Social Security are buying motor homes. So, if we restrict membership to motor home owners we will necessarily have fewer members. To the idea of attracting younger members. This is always good for an organization. In our case, almost anyone would qualify as a younger member. The truth is that I could never have afforded a motor home before I retired and supplemented my retirement with another job. That alone allowed me to go shopping for a motor home. Prior to that time, I had done extensive tent camping with my family. When I married Louise she had a favorite saying, “Her idea of roughing it was staying at a Holiday Inn.” That set an expectation of a higher standard of travel and camping than I had done previously. I did manage to get her out on some canoe camping trips on a few of Missouri’s southern streams. She was a good sport about it. Clearly, if I was going to do more than a short trip now and then, Louise was going to want something better than a tent. So, at age 55 I came to RV ownership in the form of a used motor home. Before that time I had neither the disposable income to purchase nor the free time to use a motor home. My daughter, now approaching 50, and her family purchased a pull-behind camper several years ago. They may well be on their way to motor home ownership some day. Of our four children, they are the only family that owns an RV at this time. My youngest sister, also about 50, and her husband have just moved from a Class B motor home he used primarily for mobile work assignments to a Class A and are about to take it on the road for the first time. So, the history for our family is 50+ for motor home travel. It is true that we have much in common with other segments of the RV industry. We also have distinct differences from towable RV’s. I started with membership in several RV organizations when we purchased our motor home. I still am a Good Sam member, primarily for the campground discounts. I dropped my membership in Escapees when numerous articles in their newsletter expressed hostility to motor homes and motor home owners. There exists in that organization a portion of the membership which frowns upon anyone who isn’t boondocking. It was the kind of “we’re better than they are” attitude that will quickly divide an organization. We see a little of that sometimes from Class A, Class B and Class C owners within FMCA. Once in a while someone expresses a feeling of being left out. Families traveling with children have expressed this feeling of exclusion in FMCA magazine articles and rallies. In each case, FMCA members have pulled together to try to make everyone feel valued as members. Criticism is welcome if it is constructive. Hostility will divide and destroy an organization. I believe that FMCA has a unique organization that addresses the specific interests and needs of motor home owners. I think it would be to the detriment of the organization to try to expand to include towable RV’s in the membership. Welcome them to rallies as visitors but keep membership to owners of motor homes. As membership declines the organization will necessarily have to adjust but that happens.

There are some nice places around Santa Fe, NM, elevation 7199 feet. This was the first capital of New Mexico. There are numerous artists in the area and at Taos, about an hours drive from Santa Fe. You are also about one hour from Albuquerque which is a much larger town with air service and all the big name stores and restaurants. We stayed at a large park south of Santa Fe, Santa Fe Skies. This link is direct to the park. It is about a five minute drive from downtown Santa Fe. I don't know if this will fit your resort category but I think I could spend some time here and look at what else is available in the area in the meantime. Another area with many summer residents is in southern Colorado along highway 160 in the San Luis Valley around Alamosa and to the west. There are many parks at elevations near and above 7000 feet. We've not stayed there but have driven through the area several times. Again, I don't know if any of those parks will meet your definition of a resort.

If you are shopping truck stops like Flying J/Pilot, they have handy booklets with locations and they list services (propane, diesel, DEF, etc.) offered at each location. I'm certain other truck stops also have similar information booklets. Many of us have found that the prices at truck stops these days are nowhere near competitive with other local stations. I do check web sites like the Pilot/Flying J web site to get an ideal of relative prices from one state to another. If I know I'm heading into a state which has lower prices, I'll wait to fuel until I get to that state. If fuel in the next state I'm headed for is higher in price then I'll fuel up where I am before entering the higher priced state. Over time you get a feel for which states tend to have lower prices but it pays to check. Once in a while there are surprises. As Brett mentions, Gas Buddy (an app for phone or tablets) is a very convenient way to find the best prices for diesel or gas. You can search near your present location or you can switch to the map view and scan other places along your route to see where the best prices can be found. Pulling into a regular gas station with a big rig takes some careful study and steady nerves. I look for the dip at the curb of the street (look for scrape marks left by other big rigs as they drag their hitch or more). Then I size up the location of the diesel pumps and determine the best way to enter and what the exit route would have to be. You can tell some of this from Google Maps but you may find a fuel supply truck or another customer parked in a way that makes the diesel pumps inaccessible. You may be able to wait out a temporary obstruction or you may just have to pass that station up and find another. On my first try in a regular station I scraped a cargo door on one of those barriers they put next to the pumps to keep you from running into the pump. Lesson learned, I stuck with the truck stops until I had a better sense for maneuvering around fuel pumps and other obstructions. Now I regularly refuel at Sam's Club, Walmart and grocery store stations. With Gas Buddy I have saved as much as 40 cents per gallon over a Flying J that was just a few miles away. One scrape though will wipe out any savings for a long time.

Yes, you are correct. At 80 psi you should be able to support 4190 pounds with a single tire and 3970 for each tire in a dual position. The weights you give are all well within these ratings.

The chart that Kay linked has the information you need. A 20 foot trailer with a 40 foot coach would work in some states, those with a 65 foot combined vehicle length. Assuming some distance for the hitch, you would likely come in at 62 feet more or less. There are states, Mississippi, New Jersey and a few others that are significantly less than 60 feet. With our toad, we come in at 65 feet. We just came through Mississippi so we were clearly over the limit. We've traveled every state in the US (except Hawaii) and every province in Canada (except Nunavut) and never been questioned or stopped regarding our length. If you were over the limit for a state and were involved in an accident, you could have a problem. So legally, you may encounter a problem but practically, you likely won't have any problem. Check your GVWR to ensure that you will come in under the weight limits for your coach. You would have to know what your loaded trailer would weigh to compute this but it could be calculated if you knew the weight of your cargo and then the weight of the trailer you intend to purchase. Exceeding the GVWR would exceed the limits for your coach which take into account the capacity of the braking system and other handling aspects of the chassis. Finally be sure that the weight and tongue load of the trailer won't exceed the capacity of your hitch.

I said it and I'll say it again... oh, I already did say it again. Sorry guys. I didn't get feedback that it had been submitted. In fact, when I went to send this message the above was already reloaded so I almost did say it one more time!

Besides the value of having a dash camera which I purchased last year, there is another lesson here. When I first entered the Army in 1969 everyone in our unit was required to take a series of classes on defensive driving. The class highlighted some of the common driving mistakes and what a careful driver could do to avoid those with less skill or sense for driving a vehicle. The basics of the course were to be cautious about any interaction with another vehicle and it's driver. Staying within the speed limit was an obvious one. With greater speed comes greater stopping distance. Driving a motor home this is extremely important as our stopping distances are already far greater than we're used to when driving our cars. Stopping distance is the reason that we need to allow plenty of room between us and vehicles ahead of us. In the video, there were several examples of a vehicle that suddenly is out of control. Having a safe following distance and a slower speed will allow more time for you to react and keep your vehicle clear. Watching any vehicle which is approaching you or which you are approaching with an eye for the skill and attention of the driver is another defensive habit. This has become even more important with the distracted driver factor becoming a huge factor. Drivers merging into traffic are sometimes very aggressive, changing multiple lanes while accelerating rapidly. Other drivers move into traffic like a timid mouse. Both present their own kind of hazard. We encounter many vehicles traveling slowly as the driver talks on the phone. The distance between your motor home and a slow moving vehicle in traffic can decrease rapidly. Staying alert while driving and watching out for the other drivers, expecting the unexpected, and ensuring that you have positive control of your own vehicle can help prevent a very bad day. At each FMCA National Convention and at other RV gatherings, the Recreational Vehicle Safety Education Foundation (RVSEF) offers classes in safe driving for RV's. If you haven't taken this course, I highly recommend it. The course covers many aspects of safe RV operation in addition to driving. There is a fee for the two day course and it will be money well spent.

Besides the value of having a dash camera which I purchased last year, there is another lesson here. When I first entered the Army in 1969 everyone in our unit was required to take a series of classes on defensive driving. The class highlighted some of the common driving mistakes and what a careful driver could do to avoid those with less skill or sense for driving a vehicle. The basics of the course were to be cautious about any interaction with another vehicle and it's driver. Staying within the speed limit was an obvious one. With greater speed comes greater stopping distance. Driving a motor home this is extremely important as our stopping distances are already far greater than we're used to when driving our cars. Stopping distance is the reason that we need to allow plenty of room between us and vehicles ahead of us. In the video, there were several examples of a vehicle that suddenly is out of control. Having a safe following distance and a slower speed will allow more time for you to react and keep your vehicle clear. Watching any vehicle which is approaching you or which you are approaching with an eye for the skill and attention of the driver is another defensive habit. This has become even more important with the distracted driver factor becoming a huge factor. Drivers merging into traffic are sometimes very aggressive, changing multiple lanes while accelerating rapidly. Other drivers move into traffic like a timid mouse. Both present their own kind of hazard. We encounter many vehicles traveling slowly as the driver talks on the phone. The distance between your motor home and a slow moving vehicle in traffic can decrease rapidly. Staying alert while driving and watching out for the other drivers, expecting the unexpected, and ensuring that you have positive control of your own vehicle can help prevent a very bad day. At each FMCA National Convention and at other RV gatherings, the Recreational Vehicle Safety Education Foundation (RVSEF) offers classes in safe driving for RV's. If you haven't taken this course, I highly recommend it. The course covers many aspects of safe RV operation in addition to driving. There is a fee for the two day course and it will be money well spent.

It's not preparation, just management that is a concern. Be certain that the dump valves are closed! You should dump the black water tank when it is near full. If it isn't full after a weekend trip, it should still be dumped, don't let the black tank sit for long periods of inactivity in a partially full state. We dump several buckets of water down the toilet after the black water tank has emptied. This will attack the solids that can tend to build up under the toilet. Dumping the tank after driving will also help as the movement will stir the tank helping to liquify the contents. The gray water tank should be nearly full before dumping the black water tank. After dumping the black tank, close the valve and dump the gray water. This will rinse the sewer hose.

Our slides cover some of our AC vents but the ones covered have louvers which can be aimed out into the center of the coach. Beyond that, I've read of people using a shower curtain rod to hold a curtain behind the front seats to help retain the cool air from the dash air. If you have passengers (children or pets) beyond the front seats that may or may not be a workable solution. We have a small Vornado floor fan which we have at times used to circulate air while driving. It runs off the inverter power with no problems. Use whatever internal window curtains you have to limit heating by the sunlight.