john_harris

Thanks for replies. Was able to fish out the wire with coat hanger..all good. Mark this down as answered.

HuffyPuff was on right track. Turned out that I had lost L2 leg on the 50 amp service. Corrected that and problem solved. Both units running fine and blowing cold. saved me trip to RV Center.

I wish I had a pump switch by the water closet. Does light come on when pump is turned on from another location? If not, indicator light might be out. Determine first if that is what switch is actually for.

13,000 BTUH Dometic Rooftop units has worked fine thru last trip in June. While stored and connected to 50 amp service, I turned on control panel to cool down MH while I did some interior maintenance, nothing happened. Checked breaker for unit and fuse for control panel. Rear unit comes on fine after normal delay but front does not. I can detect slight sound of relay click after normal delay after turning control panel to on but still no fan, compressor,etc. Have appointment at local RV Center in a week but would like to investigate all do it yourself possibilities. Any thing to check into?

Well, don't overlook Great Smoky Mtn NP in eastern TN. Elkmont CG is our preferred but also Smokemont on NC side is a good choice. Also, Davidson River at Davidson, NC is another good option. all of course the typical national park dry camping. Several private resort RV parks to the west of Asheville, NC in the Toxaway/Cashiers area. All the above have plenty of things to do in the area. I personally not a big fan of Mt Pisgah CG. sites to sloped for me and not larger rig friendly.

Thanks to all. I will keep you posted.

The one in question is unfortunately the end one. The good wire remains intact but the crimp connector also is just inside the rather small hole and has practically no slack so I am reluctant to pull on it for fear of pulling it loose too. On the other clearance light, I clipped the leads to the original lights and added new inline crimped connectors to give me enough slack to work with. on the side lights, I could get to the area behind them so no problem. I will try the fish wire but the size of the holes makes it a tight fit.

Am in the process of replacing several front overhead clearance lights on our 2007 HR Endeavor. Found OEM LED lights and replaced one without a problem. On the second, one of the existing wires came apart at the connector, behind the front clip. Hole is only 1/2" dia and I can not get to the wire to pull it out. Really don't want to take overhead cabinets out to reach it from behind and not sure that I could get to the wiring even if I did. Could drill another larger hole next to existing that would be covered by clearance light and fish it out from there, but not real excited about that either. Anyone had similar issue or suggestions?

Bill, we are very pleased with our 07 Jeep Liberty. As stated above, transfer case to neutral, auto tranmission to park and unlock steering. We have a key that came with jeep that is a dummy that allows steering to unlock but will not start ignition. I then use my regular key to lock jeep doors and off we go. Approx 20,000 miles so far with no issues.

If nothing else, this reinforces the need for a dash cam. I have a GoPro and plan to add a mount on dash before next trip.

Thanks for all the input. Seems all are in agreement about more is better. Would staying plugged in to 50 amp service be any more venerable to spikes or abnomal voltages?

My apologies if this has been discussed before, but I did not want to high jack a previous thread on 30 amp plug. I will be changing storage facilities and have the opportunity to put in the electrical service I want for the motorhome which has 50 amp. Present facility has only 20 amp service and that has worked reasonably well as I only run the refrigerator and the battery tender for the chassis batteries, (OK occasionally the TV). Will definitely be putting in at least a 30 amp service so I could perhaps run one AC for cool down while loading or for maintenance. Don't really see using both AC units or microwave a this is only a storage facility. If cost is not an issue, and I don't know what the difference might be, is there any downside of upgrading to 50 amp service? I don't want to over do it but don't want to be miss an opportunity happier in the long run.

Our Holiday Rambler came with Goodyear 670 series.We developed an issue with one of the steer tires at about 30,000 miles. Still plenty of tread but the date was getting close. Replaced them with Michelin XZE's 18 months ago thru the advantage program and could not be happier. A little pricier perhaps, but the ride and handling was significantly better.

As Brett suggests, no "one size fits all solution". I also have a DP towing a Jeep Liberty and was looking for long term solution with ease of hook up to go with Blue Ox tow bar. Went with M&G Engineering system to take advantage of the coaches air brake system. Install was a little tricky but was able to do it myself with a little "shade tree mechanic" experience. instructions provide are quite clear and after install, system is rather inconspicuous and trouble free. Connect both ends of a flex hose, attach lanyard for break away to coach and toad, pump up air in break away tank, and we're off. Braking is proportional and requires not electrical connection or battery drain.

While have not had issue with "clicking sound", I am glad to see Rich's comment about prime mode. When running generator on the road, I have failed to turn off generator before getting to the fuel threshold and run the line dry. It is then difficult to restart after fill tank. Sounds like I can use this to prime system and not keep cranking the genset. Thanks, Rich,.

As Brett suggests, the same thing has happened to me a time or two. Culprit seems to be rust triggered from driving in salt conditions in winter. Can't say it has happened during warmer weather.

Certainly not a hiss but Brett may be on to something with increased RPM creating strain on belt, AC compressor, or water pump. Will continue to investigate and let you know.

Returning from trip, I noticed a relative high pitched squeal after lifting off accelerator. As I was traveling mountainous areas of VA and WV, I routinely keep exhaust brake engaged. Noise was intermittent, but seemed to be associated with exhaust brake and deceleration although it also seemed to be present a few times while accelerating. I disengaged it for a while as road conditions permitted and it mostly went away, but not entirely. After returning home, I tried to replicate condition while driving to local Cummins service center but could not get it to "squeal" for them, even on a test drive. Anyone out there experienced similar issue? Not really sure it is exhaust brake. Could it be belts, exhaust leak, turbo, other?

If the lights above are 110v, go with 110 below but use LED to minimize current draw but looks like with size of you unit, you probably have inverter capacity to spare for some extra lighting . Will probably be more difficult to find and tie into a 12v circuit unless those above med cabinet are 12v.

I used a Blue Ox towbar and could not be happier with it. As as stated above the transfer case is in neutral and the transmission is in park for towing. I always put tranny back in drive after putting transfer case in neutral just to be sure transfer is in neutral before placing it back into park. Then when key is in the one click position and turn wheel left and right to make sure it is unlocked. My 07 liberty actually came with the dummy key that allows me to turn the one click to unlock steering. It does not have the chip in it so it wont allow the car to start. For lighting, I drilled out a hole in each taillight in the location already designated on the back of the housing and added a two element bulb and socket. I sealed the socket to the back of the housing with waterproof insulation paint use in exterior electrical work Looks like factor set up except signal lights are not amber. My bakes are M&G air so not need for charge wire.

Truly interesting read: My compliments to PheatonDriver for his fortitude and ability to handle the situation with grace and humor. Based on his experience i must say i am glad to be just south of the Mason Dixon line in WV. When I entered the ranks of class A MH owner/driver, I too was told by the out of state dealer that a CDL was not required. I was not convinced so I contacted WVDMV and after going through a couple of representatives was told that RV's were exempt for CDL requirements and that my regular drivers license was all that was need. Not wanting to find myself on the side of the road facing a ticket with only this verbal, i confirmed in the WVDMV CDL handbook the following: Who must have a West Virginia Commercial Driver’s License? If you live in West Virginia and want to drive a commercial motor vehicle on the public roads, you must have a West Virginia Commercial Driver’s License, unless you are expressly exempt........ Who is exempt? • The Commercial Motor Vehicle Safety Act of 1986 exempts vehicles used exclusively for personal use as recreational vehicles and rental trucks used only to transport the driver’s personal and/or household property. I just confirmed that this is still what is posted on the WVDMV website so unless someone has better info, i will blissfully drive and enjoy

Most Lowes and Home Depot will make you a counter or sheet whatever size you need. If it is one of their standard colors it should not be too expensive. If it is a color they have to order, you will be payng for a full size sheet regardless of size you need. Many kitchen cabinetry shops will do the same and may sell you a surplus sheet if you are lucky enough to find a piece in correct color. Keep in mind that corian is only 1/2 thick and edge needs to be built up to be full thickness of a typical counter . I had a small custom cabinet made for bathroom to fit behind water closet with matching corian top and only need 18" x 24" Shop had it in scrap pile and cost next to nothing. .

Do you have a washer/dryer that could be leaking water into drain?

Use it all the time when traveling in colder weather. No issues unless it is really cold (below 30 or so). Also, we use ac in hot weather as dash units barely can do the driving compartment in either heat or cool mode. Watch fuel level as most Motorhomes designed to cut off genset when fuel level gets to 1/4 tank or so. Slight decease in fuel milage but you and your passengers will be much more comfortable.

I use the same procedure outlined by Monholt above. Ignition on, but not the engine running, Otherwise you will recharge system.