john_harris

Not to repeat anything from above but one of my DirecTV receivers from home has worked fine for several years in MH. Only issue is when the receiver has not been used for a month or two, it looses its "authorization" and I must call DirecTV for it to be authorized (ext 722) takes about 30 seconds.

Just got back from short trip after replacing Goodyear 670's with Michelin XZA's. What a difference! Endeavor never road as smooth and quiet even before the shimmy developed in the steering. Much better ride and control. Took advantage of the FMCA / Michelin Advantage program and was very pleased with pricing. Much better than best deal I negotiated without it. Would not consider Goodyears in future at any price.

Alignment, ball joints, tie rods all checked out fine. Replaced Goodyears with new Michelins using the advantage program. All is fine and ride much better than when unit was new. Thanks for all who responded.

Run mine at 105 on front and 98 on rear based on actual weights on each axle. My Goodyears show mfg date of week 14 of 06. I will be replacing front tires with new Michelin's as soon as front end work is complete.

My 400 ISL did the same thing. Turns out problem was clogged radiator (road debris) on engine side of rear mounted radiator. Cleaned it and now pulls grades without going over 195 or so. If your rad has been replaced, obviously not your problem, but might help someone else with similar issue.

Have you checked with Tom Raper in Fairfield, OH or in Richmond Indiana. They used to handle HR and did when your unit was built.

Still waiting to hear from suspension guy but reading further into the forum on tire issues has convinced me the original issue with cupping is with the Goodyear's and not necessarily the alignment. Tires have always been in conditioned garage when not on the road but still they are at 7 year anniversary of mfg date, so they should be replaced anyway. Stay tuned.

Thanks to Brett and Herman for quick response and input. I will post what I uncover. As it happened so quickly, I can't help but think something broke.

My '07 Monaco product has weight info on sidewall behind driver seat and on inside of medicine cabinet in bath. it too is right about 1000 ibs heaver on one side but mine is on right side based on floor plan. Right side has refrig and washer/dryer and tends to be loaded with more stuff in basement.

I just returned from a wonderful 5,000-mile trip out west in a 2007 Holiday Rambler Endeavor, with just under 30,000 miles on Roadmaster chassis. I had observed minor edge feathering on the front tires indicating an alignment issue but nothing major. About 500 miles from getting home, noticed some minor shimmy in steering wheel and observed minor cupping on right front tire. After getting home and unloaded, took motorhome to get routine service done, including oil change, filters, and chassis lube. After getting chassis lube done and heading to Cummins shop 7 miles away, the minor shimmy became severe! At slow speed, nothing detectible but once getting up to 45 MPH, steering wheel suddenly wabbled severely until I dropped speed back down to 35 or so. Then after gradually returning to 45, all was fine until I hit a dip in road, and the severe shimmy started all over again. A quick look under unit showed no visible sign of broken shock mount or steering linkage issue. Cummins looked it over but are not chassis people. I now have it in a local truck service garage (no HR or Monaco dealer in area) but it may be a few days before they get someone on it. Any thoughts on possible causes or things to be looking for? The Roadmaster chassis is not part of the recall with rear trailing arms.

Blue Ox on 2007 Liberty-- very pleased. Self installed base plate. Easy hook up. Like look when pins removed-- almost invisible thru front valance.

Started out with a dolly in 07 for wife's WV. Quickly tired of the hastle of storing and connecting the dolly, having someone to help guide me onto the ramps, then strapping down the tires. What a pain in wet weather and even worse when you had to disconnect after driving in wet conditions. Bought a 07 liberty and a blue ox and could not be happier. Totally a one man operation. Takes 5 min or less to be ready to roll. No worries with battery drain or milage on toad odometer. Has worked fine for approx 10,000 miles.

I had been seeing similar issues and took my HR Endeavor into Cummins for possible t'stat replacement only to find the same type of build up on front side. They found radiator pretty well choked off. even found a wendy's cup and other paper debris. We have a Liberty toad but otherwise have not restrictions on air flow. Any suggestions other than making sure it is cleaned more frequently than every 5 years.

So, what would someone expect to pay for 4 - 6 volt 300 amp hr lifelines and would would be life expectancy on properly maintained (charged) house batteries used for dry camping 5 to 6 days at a time 5 or 6 times a year? My U2200 lasted 5 years but I had issues with the inverter the first year or so that allowed batteries to discharge to 8-9 volts or less on several occasions. Those issues are now resolved.

We have a 2007 HR Endeavor with original 4-6v interstate batteries dated '06. When MH was new we had issue with inverter which resulted in batteries dropping voltage frequently but after dealer fixed inverter, voltage would remain above 12v over night with moderate load. We store motorhome indoors with connection to shore power so charge is maintained when not in use. On one occasion, I let water levels get low, but generally the have been monitored and topped of regularly. When traveling we are dry camping approx 60% of the time so batteries do get a workout. On recent trip voltage drop a little more excessive so I figure we have gotten about as much life out of them as we should expect. I have recently noticed two of the batteries have a slight bulge and the power cables seem to be swollen at the terminals with a turquoise paste like substance around the insulation. I plan to replace batteries and cables, but should I be looking at anything else? What should be normal voltage drop overnite after having batteries charged to absorb levels with minimal (parasitic loads only)? Since we had problems from start, I am not sure what to expect out on new batteries. Any feedback would be appreciated.

Had same issue while on the road. Not wanting to buy whole motor, I ended up filing the end cap to create a flat groove that aligned with the flat part of the shaft. Then I inserted a flat aluminum wedge cut from a piece of alum bar purchased at Lowes for $3. Total cost of fix was less than $30 including the files and hack saw. Much less than the cost of new motor.

As for roads from Gatlingurg to Charlottesville, for a newbie, I suggust sticking with 441 north to Sevierville, then 66 to I-40 east till you get to I-81 north, all the way to I-64 east at Stanton then I-64 to Charlottesville. Nice scenery but 4 lane all the way. The Blue Ridge Parkway out of the North Carolina side of GSMNP is a beautiful drive and goes all the way to I-64 just west of Charlottesville but is a very curvy, 45 mph scenic drive not well suited to large rv's unless you are very comfortable with narrow roads. Likewise, the Skyline drive in VA which also parallels I-81 but north of I-64 is great for scenery and there is a nice campground at Big Meadows at MP 50 is nice stop but again, it is relatively narrow 2 lanes with lots of curves and a just a few ups and downs. While both are winding, they generally follow the ridges so they do not have really not steep grades. If you have a toad and are able to camp somewhere accessible to either road, it is well worth the time to at least sample the views from the ridges.

Great responses. Thanks particularly to Tom and Brett. The solenoid was right where Tom said it would be and yes it was dead. I continue to be impressed with the amount of helpful information that is exchanged across the FMCA blog. I for one, did not know you could get the smoke put back in electronic equipment after you accidentially released it.

Tom, We too have a Monaco product, a 2007 HR Endeavor and just recently experienced the battery disconnect switch problems. The switch has been cutting out requiring a reset by turning switch back on. Battery seems to be fully charged. On two occasions, the coach was plugged into shore power with battery tender connected. If the solenoid is subject to failure, is this the likely problem or perhaps an indication of another problem? Is the solenoid easily replaced?

What types of issues might cause the solenoid to fail?

We too stayed at Camp Hatteras and found it nice. There are several nice sites along the dunes on the atlantic side and several sites across the road that overlook the sound.

So, over the long haul, is it ok to keep the refrigerator running on shore power while motorhome is stored, say for 3 to 4 weeks between trips, or should we shut it off for those periods between trips. It is nice not to have to load and unload refrigerator every time but if that could shorten the life of unit, it might not be worth it. Any thoughts???