rayin

No recommendations, however here is a good starting place: http://www.motorhome-storage.com/alabama.php

My wife has TruckerPath on her phone(free app). Yes, it's designed for truckers, but we RVer's use many of the same restrictions. To me the most important feature is routing designed for large, heavy, long vehicles. I have it set to identify rest areas, truck stops, parking areas, and more that I now forget.

That's odd; http://www.sailuntires.ca/MRT/dealer-locator.html I figure if they meet the Canada trucking industry requirements, they're good enough for me. Sailun tires meet the exact same govt standards as Michelin. I've read of many Michelin tire failures, plus the sidewall cracking flaw.

Just now found this forum thread, too bad the officers do not update it regularly. Herman, S.M.A.R.T., of which I am a member, is a totally different organization, consisting of U.S. and Canadian present/former military. See: https://www.smartrving.org/ for complete information.

I learned about FreshCab, tried it, and apparently it works, haven't had mice since throwing pouches behind drawers, and cabinets. It must also deter elephants, haven't seen signs of those either.

No problems! No-one knows everything, but together we (MH'ers) do know almost everything.

HWH recommends using WD-40 and soap N water, nothing else.http://www.hwhcorp.com/ml47149.pdf HWH jack shafts are SST: http://janeandjohn.org/docs/HWH-Presentation-GNR2008.pdf BTW, for the original poster, HWH says to level side-to-side first, then front to back.http://janeandjohn.org/docs/HWH-Presentation-GNR2008.pdf

Read the excellent article in the latest FMCA magazine about approved Allison transmission fluids.

Check out http://www.eastpennmanufacturing.com/wp-content/uploads/Deka-Pro-Master-Golf-Car-Flyer-0248.pdf

http://rvheadlights.org/2015/07/19/welcome/ is a work in progress, however the website owner has a limited database now. I took a lot of time searching the internet for a picture of mine. I finally discovered my headlamps are from 1995-1997 Ford Crown Victoria lineup.

If you have an HWH hydraulic jack system, they have SST shafts and will not rust. Extended exposure will not harm them. HWH says to spray them with WD-40 prior to retraction.

I use Sodium Dichlor, it has no aftertaste, comes in a dry powder = easy to carry/store in a tightly sealed container, and only takes 1 tsp to sanitize a 100G storage tank + plumbing. You don't even need to drain and rinse anything, just treat and go. If you are unsure of your water source 1/2 tsp disinfects 100G drinking water. I do caution everyone to download the SDS for Sodium Dichlor and read carefully, as it can be dangerous for the uneducated to use.

Talking about the small print; hows this? " gov't taxes & our surcharges could add 7%–46% to your bill." I can't sign up anyway, haven't been a member 1 yr yet.

I received a progress report from bbrigham this morning. I made a good guess, he has been quite busy with repairs to his project MH: "I have all of the systems working. refrigerator needed board and orifice. Hot water heater needed thermostat. Window awnings needs straps. Plumbing and fridge vent. Inverter. The chassis is in garage today for oil change and check. will update later."

You might add: 4. Raise dues to support the Assist program, FMCA Assist is the ONLY such program charging less than $100/yr.

You have a gift for writing and composing. To prevent future loss of what you have partially written, consider writing your article in notepad or word, then cut N paste to this forum. Smithy said this vote is not the only option, just the one presented. I wonder about the others, since we have never been privy to them.

Was that "direction change" 4 or 5 years ago the initiation of this move to be a clone of Good Sam Club?

I only use the auto-level feature of the HWH system. It dump air bags first, then continues to deploy jacks until the electronics detect level. That sensor does need to be "tweaked" about once a year to match the bubble-level in the frig. No reason to re-invent the wheel, or in this case how to level the MH.

IF you have an HWH leveling/slideout system, This is their bible: http://www.hwhcorp.com/ml20673aafaq.html#SystemMaintenanceQuestions Their jacks ALWAYS work in pairs, you cannot manually extend just one. Yes, one jack may reach the ground before the other in that pair, but when the system senses resistance it pauses until the other of that pair also reaches the ground, only then does leveling begin.

bbrigham must be busy with his new project. The sales brochure for his 2001 Winnebago Ultimate Freedom contains most of the information everyone has asked about. I somewhat doubt his ball joints require replacement yet, mine are still good at 43,xxx miles with the torn boots. I do use a waterproof spray grease on them every time we get back home. Manholt: I located my water intrusion source. It was the roof-mounted remote spotlight, the plastic mount was sun-rotted, broken, and allowing water to enter via the wiring hole. Spotlight is removed, the area is covered with Eternabond now.

Here is the easiest way I know: How to test a Norcold Thermister. It's not voltage that matters, it is resistance. If your thermister tests bad, the best solution is to install an adjustable Norcold thermister.

Hear Hear! I said that several months ago. I have never seen a medical assist program for underl $100/yr. The ratio of members to users of other medical assist programs cannot be significantly different that FMCA assist program. That points to raising dues, I wouldn't object to $100/yr FMCA dues considering the benefits received, then leaving the organization as is. You nailed the issue!

On Oct 5 Smithy said: " This is not the only solution. Just one that was presented. "

Winnebago used (still may) a steel cage to protect the driver and copilot in an accident. This steel cage also holds the front glass. I hope what Kay said is happening, easier to find and repair than removing the windshields, repairing rust damage, then resetting the windshield glass, which can break during removal. Locating the water intrusion source is my project this week. If I must do a emergency temporary repair, I carry a spray can of clear Rustoleum leak sealer in the MH tool box.

Inspect around the windshield for signs of water leakage. These years have a known rust problem around the windshield frame. Some owners have had to have the glass removed and the metal frame rebuilt due to rust. So far, mine hadn't leaked until yesterday while driving in rain all the way from Pigeon Forge, TN to home in Indiana. Now I'm concerned about a rusted frame in our UF too. These MH's have a floating glass(like autos) instead of gaskets to hold the glass; water gets in and has nowhere to go, just lays in the metal frame and causes rust. This problem, and remedy, is easily found with an internet search.