rayin

Here is the easiest way I know: How to test a Norcold Thermister. It's not voltage that matters, it is resistance. If your thermister tests bad, the best solution is to install an adjustable Norcold thermister.

Hear Hear! I said that several months ago. I have never seen a medical assist program for underl $100/yr. The ratio of members to users of other medical assist programs cannot be significantly different that FMCA assist program. That points to raising dues, I wouldn't object to $100/yr FMCA dues considering the benefits received, then leaving the organization as is. You nailed the issue!

On Oct 5 Smithy said: " This is not the only solution. Just one that was presented. "

Winnebago used (still may) a steel cage to protect the driver and copilot in an accident. This steel cage also holds the front glass. I hope what Kay said is happening, easier to find and repair than removing the windshields, repairing rust damage, then resetting the windshield glass, which can break during removal. Locating the water intrusion source is my project this week. If I must do a emergency temporary repair, I carry a spray can of clear Rustoleum leak sealer in the MH tool box.

Inspect around the windshield for signs of water leakage. These years have a known rust problem around the windshield frame. Some owners have had to have the glass removed and the metal frame rebuilt due to rust. So far, mine hadn't leaked until yesterday while driving in rain all the way from Pigeon Forge, TN to home in Indiana. Now I'm concerned about a rusted frame in our UF too. These MH's have a floating glass(like autos) instead of gaskets to hold the glass; water gets in and has nowhere to go, just lays in the metal frame and causes rust. This problem, and remedy, is easily found with an internet search.

deleted, redundant.

I think your Norcold is a model 1200LRIM(ice maker model). The service manual will contain everything you need to know, it eliminates any question of accuracy or opinions.

Actual ballot completion, I've already submitted mine, BUT, today I received the October 2017 issue. Inside is the follow-up ballot in case a member missed the original in the September issue. Anyway, while re-reading the ballot I noticed it states the member must mark their vote by putting an X in the appropriate box. Will my vote be counted? I colored-in the circle instead of putting an X in the circle, hopefully I'm just paranoid about this and my vote will be counted. Powers that be, what say you?

That "box" on the back of the frig is a recall item installed at mfgrs expense to prevent the boiler tube from overheating, it may be reset with a strong magnet held on top of the box. There are several reason it trips, carry a magnet in your toolbox.

OK, I'm over my head here. The website you linked shows an entirely different Trimark lock than what I'm familiar with; I suggest you email Jack at the address on the webpage for instructions on removing your present lock. Sorry I can't help.

Thanks Wayne, you solved my problem too; hopefully I now have a signature showing. I'm using FF 55.0.3, W/ ad-block ultimate, BetterPrivacy, and Ghostery.

Apparently PFJ is owned by Jimmy Haslam and TN Governor Bill Haslam.(son) A detailed story of his life about football and beginning Pilot Oil filling stations may be read here: http://fleetowner.com/people/reflections-truck-stop-life Anyway; I don't mind paying more for diesel fuel when convenience and amenities for a comfortable rest break are handy. I'm still surprised by folks that pay over $300,000 for an RV balk at paying $30 more for 100G+ of fuel to power that investment. I sure didn't stop traveling when diesel fuel was over $5/G, now it's under $3 and I'm traveling at half-price.

The Spartan factory charges around $2,000-$2,500 to replace 4 ball-joints, as reported by other Spartan owners. Leveling jacks are HWH brand, I remember reading the outside seal is replaceable but never tried myself. The HWH FAQ page answers virtually all common/frequent questions. The frig vent exterior panel may have to be custom-made if a used one is not available from an RV salvage yard. The hyd pump leak may require replacement, the hardest part will be completely purging the hyd system of air since Spartan does not recommend flushing the system or even changing the AW 32 hyd oil unless the oil is contaminated or discolored. The drum brakes are likely badly rusted, which may clear themselves up with judicious driving for the first 50 or so miles, less if town driving. IMO, there are too many other motorhomes on the market to knowingly buy a MH in disrepair. Keep in mind this chassis is made to perform for over a million miles of daily use. I like my Spartan chassis, however, I would not let chassis brand stop me from purchasing a MH in great condition, as each have their own quirks.

Oddly, the Allison operators manual does not list a code beginning with J. Nor does this one: http://www.rvtechlibrary.com/transmissions/shift_selector.pdf On an different RVing forum a retired Allison Fluids Engineer answers all Allison questions. PM me if you want that forum name.

Agreed! Stand-alone RV medical assist programs cost at least $129/yr, If I stay a member of FMCA with medical assist I would not object to $100/yr dues, IF FMCA maintains the same focus on motorhomes; otherwise the board should leave well-enough alone.

Is this what you need? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sliding-Glass-U-Channel-Weatherstrip-25-3-16-Glass-WINNEBAGO-RV-CAMPER-/263098964331

The Life member GS membership card(same discount as RV Plus charge card) is what I have been using to get the 8 cent discount on diesel(9 cents for Elite member). Last PFJ where I refueled the gal at the counter told me to use my GS membership card instead of my PFJ RV card(not the Plus card) as I got a better discount. After swiping my GS card I swipe my Discover card and get another 5% back on my statement. NOTE: discounts only available at company-owned stores. manholt, I'll pay closer attention to my TruckerPath app for fuel prices our next trip, thanks.

There is a possibility the starter solenoid or ignition switch is failing. Have you noticed a change in the way your engine starts coinciding with the draw?

You may purchase a new screen door, or components thereof, or anything else in/on your Winnebago here: http://www.winnebagoparts.com/

What make/model MH? I assume you presently have a TriMark remote system in working order, right? That picture is of a standard door locking mechanism, a dead-bolt is actually a solid steel bolt that slides into a matching receiving hole in the door frame. When my latch on our Winnebago got so hard to pull DW couldn't open the door with one hand I began adjusting the striker bolt. It had moved inward and upward enough to cause the problem. I looked up the latch adjusting instruction on the Winnebago website and adjusted accordingly.

We bought a 2000 Winnebago Ultimate Freedom 40JD April 2013, with 23,xxx miles. It had been parked in the owners barn for 6 years after he became too ill to drive it (he advertised his business at NASCAR events). I knew going it there would be maintenance problems pop up, so we bought the Camping World 3yr extended service contract too. No major problem arose during those 3 years, but the 3yr ESC paid for itself+deductibles. I did not renew the ESC and haven't had further problems as they were all addressed in the initial 3 yrs of traveling in our MH. All claims we filed were for the coach part of our MH, none filed for chassis problems. The Granning IFS has a known problem for deteriorating rubber boots around the ball joints. Total replacement ball joint replacement is required, as the boot is made on the ball joint. I've never replace mine though, I used a needle point on my grease gun to lube them, then wrapped them with shrink-wrap plastic. It's work OK so far. Parts and accessories are still available, in fact I just bought new plastic defroster vents(plastic embrittles with time) for our MH through Amazon. If you decide to purchase this UF, pm me and I'll send you my list of references, catalogs, etc.; which reminds me, Winnebago maintains an extensive list of drawings-both electrical and plumbing, and a catalog of parts used in the building of their RV's, which I think goes back into the 1990's, on their website. Newer than 2001 has a parts lookup by coach serial number=specific to building that unit.

Wasn't preventing frame flex the very reason for the 3-jack system? HWH jacks work in pairs to prevent excessive frame flex, however when air bags are dumped this can allow the frame to flex on extremely unlevel ground; which is probably why Winnebago says to level the coach first then extend slides.

That totally depends upon the bank. I use Fifth Third bank, their website says my debit card is treated exactly like my 5/3 master card when/if unauthorized charges are received by the bank; Zero liability whenI sign a statement agreeing to prosecute when they identify the perpetrator. Back to fuel discounts, I get 8 cents off per gallon with my Good Sam membership card, plus up to 5% off when I pay with Discover card.

My inner duals have short stems too. I had to reach between the duals to install the TST pressure monitor systems sensors (btw, don't tighten that locking screw). Once the sensors are installed and a short 1" extension that caps the stem without having to remove it for adding air (hope you know what I'm talking about), the end is even with the outer dual access hole. This makes it easy to adjust air pressure in the inner dual tire. When the shop mounted my new tires, they reinstalled the sensors and checked them for air leakage before installation on MH. FWIW, here is what Michelin says about balancing beads. Plenty of wiggle-room in that statement.

Read your tire warranty closely, some mfgrs void the warranty if the wrong thing is used.