jc21014

With the fans mentioned, do you want the air blowing into the compatment or pulling the hot air out?

This stuff reportedly works very well. http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Headlight-Clear-Plastic-Restoration/dp/B001O7I7FS

Here's a link that might be usefull. http://www.rverscorner.com/manometer.html

Your welcome.

I have had Michelin tires in the past and have been satisfied with them. Goodyears, althought not mentioned, would be an absoluted no-no on any RV that I own as I don't have any confidence in them and their pricing can be atrocious. Others to consider would be Hankooks, Toyo, Sumitomo which are usually priced very reasonably. I have heard good reports on Hercules tires but have not used them personally. FMCA members can purchase Michelin tires at a nice discount if your interested. Go to this link for information: http://www.fmca.com/...onnections/3448

We use this stuff on our slides, steps, hinges, towbar, etc. Can be bought at Wally World and most auto parts stores. http://www.jigaloo.com/us/e_products_jigaloo.php

I agree as most RV fridges have enough trouble with maintaining acceptable air flow through the outside compartments. You might consider instead, putting a dog flea/tick collar in the outside compartment instead of the screens.

Please accept condolences for your loss. I might be wrong, but I believe their is a list of FMCA members who volunteer different services for other members and driving a members RV home might be one of them. You would be responsible for the fuel used and reimburse the driver. I would go to this link and give the FMCA office a call to get the particulars. http://www.fmca.com/home-mainmenu-1/contact-fmca.html

Will the generator area require use of a Genturi device to channel the exhaust up over the roof. Not a bad investment if you don't have one.

I agree.

Well said Cookie. It's seems that a lot of people find it easier to complain about getting caught than being attentive to what they're driving and accepting responsibility for their actions.

This info from the 2011 Owners Manual states FWD and 4WD Explorers can be towed with all 4 wheels on the ground by following the below listed instructions. RECREATIONAL TOWING Follow these guidelines for your specific powertrain combination to tow your vehicle for personal travel (such as behind a motor home or a truck). Note: Put your climate control system in recirculated air mode to prevent exhaust fumes from entering the vehicle. Refer to the Climate Controls chapter for more information. In case of a roadside emergency with a disabled vehicle, please refer to Wrecker towing in the Roadside Emergencies chapter. These guidelines are designed to prevent damage to your vehicle after it is hooked-up to the RV or tow dolly. Front-wheel drive (FWD) vehicles can be towed with all four wheels on the ground or with the front wheels off the ground by using a tow dolly. If you are using a tow dolly follow the instructions specified by the equipment provider. If you are towing with all four wheels on the ground, refer to the towing instructions found at the end of this section. Four-wheel drive (4WD) vehicles can be towed with all four wheels on the ground or with all four wheels off the ground using a vehicle transport trailer. Do not tow your 4WD vehicle with the front wheels off the ground (by using a tow dolly) and the rear wheels on the ground; this will cause damage to your 4WD system. If you are using a vehicle transport trailer, follow the instruction specified by the equipment provider. If you are towing with all four wheels on the ground, refer to the towing instructions found at the end of this section. If you tow your vehicle with all four wheels on the ground: • Tow only in the forward direction. • Release the parking brake. • Place the transmission shift lever in N (Neutral). • Place the ignition in the accessory position (refer to Starting in the Driving chapter). • Do not exceed 65 mph (105 km/h) • Start the engine and allow it to run for five minutes at the beginning of each day and every six hours thereafter. With the engine running and your foot on the brake, shift into D (Drive) and then into R (Reverse) before shifting back into N (Neutral). Tires, Wheels and Loading 263

You might consider having one of these installed. The way you described is old style and cumbersome to say the least. http://www.campingwo...fuss-flush/3495

I also agree that the purchase of so called "RV specialty" TV's is an unnecessary expense. Quite a few people use Vizio, Samsung, LG, etc instead of cheaper no name brands. The sound/picture quality leaves a lot to be desired. We personally lean towards Vizio and Samsung.

Like poster #11, we bought this air compressor when it was on sale for $99 and (2) 25ft ext cords. It will air up my 22.5 tires right now and doesn't miss a beat doing it. http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00915309000P?mv=rr

I second the (2) KOA's mentioned above. Twin Fountain leaves a lot to be desired as the attitude of the check-in people sucks and they've raised their prices noticeably. Hidden Valley RV park just south of Ardmore,Ok on I-35 is also good for an overnighter. http://koa.com/campgrounds/oklahoma-city/ http://koa.com/campgrounds/checotah/ http://www.hiddenlakerv.com/

I am really surprised that NoCold has not been forced to take more a more comprehensive approach to repairing what appears to be thousands of potentially hazardous fridges currently in use. I'm sure that they are also wondering if they will survive this mess financially. Personally, I wouldn't have a NoCold fridge in any RV that I now own or may own in the future. We passed on (2) previous units prior to our current one because they had NoCold units in them.

Water issues are a definite red flag for me also. I can guarantee that most dealers,(think 99.9%) will tell you what they think you want to hear. I would run the other way as your dream RV is still out there waiting to be discovered.

We also would be interested.

This is the type in most rv's. I keep a couple on hand as they ocassionally will go bad. http://www.lowes.com...ents&facetInfo=

To the original poster, replace the plastic line with the appropriately sized copper line before you install the fridge as the plastic line will crack and require partial removal of the fridge later.

The lp gas detector units should be replaced at 5-7 yrs as the sensors start to go bad. Same with carbon monoxide detectors. A lot of smoke detectors are usually rated for 10 yrs.

Thank you. Very nice writeup. We will looking at a 2001 HR Imperial with 61000 miles, 370 Cummins this week and this info will be helpful.

We are going to be looking at a 2001 HR with the Cummins ISL 370. Is this problem only on the 330 or other models also?