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sgtjoe

Inverter Output

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Thanks for the heads up on the 140.  Every thing was off except the genny.  I'll just leave it on shore power until the Tech gets here.

Gee I was happy the generator showed 140, see I told you all I'm kinda DUH to electrical on this MH.  A little later I'll post the shore power and then you all can tell me if it's good or bad.

Love this forum site, really get good advise/responses.

 

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120 is perfect. 122 is just fine! 120 +/- 10% is acceptable limit, so under 108 or over 132 is NOT acceptable.  The closer to 120 VAC the better.

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Thanks, I'll just try to kick back and wait for the Tech to come and check it all out.  At least I know my shore power is good.

 

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Reading higher than normal voltages is nearly always an indication that there is an improperly tightened ground/neutral before the first high voltage reading in an AC circuit.

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19 minutes ago, kaypsmith said:

Reading higher than normal voltages is nearly always an indication that there is an improperly tightened ground/neutral before the first high voltage reading in an AC circuit.

Agreed, if on 50 amp shore power (two hots) as the neutral serves as the "reference" for voltage.

On generator, really depends on the generator.  Many are 120, not 240 VAC (one hot instead of two). In this case more likely to be the voltage regulator.

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If the inverter is tied in through the transfer switch, and the inverter was recently replaced, and if a loose connection can cause faulty readings, I'm wondering if all the symptoms are tied together?

If there is a loose or bad connection between the inverter and the transfer switch, it could also explain why some circuits aren't working.

Just a thought...

 

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4 hours ago, wolfe10 said:

Agreed, if on 50 amp shore power (two hots) as the neutral serves as the "reference" for voltage.

I wasn't sure if the voltage at the pedestal was 122, but inside the coach 140 or not, if 122 inside also, then the loose neutral is out the window, that also would  eliminate the transfer switch unless it is a 240 generator, if it is a 240 generator, could still be a loose neutral at the generator or gen connection at the ATS, just a few easy checkpoints. Easy to check if a 120 or 240 generator if no marking to indicate which it is, put the volt meter leads across the two hot outputs of the generator, if no voltage is read, then it is a 120, if 240 is read then it is a true 240 generator.

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Lots of generators have 120/240 output. Not sure of the make/model of the coach or of the generator. It would help to have that information if possible, or maybe I missed it somewhere.

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Too bad you all are so far away, it would be fun to have you all checking this out in person.  Hang in there until Tuesday after noon.

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The Tech showed up today and found the bathroom GFI was wired wrong.  That would be me.  As far as the Inverter power there are some questions he will be asking Xantraex and he will be back on Thursday afternoon.  He is also thinking that perhaps National did not wire the fridge plug to the Inverter.  His Grandfather's 2001 Dolphin (National) is not wired for Inverter.

Stay tuned for the Inverter Saga Thursday. 

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Yes, no "here is how they are all wired".

Some refrigerator outlets are wired for both sockets to be shore power/generator only.

Some are wired for both sockets to be inverter OR shore power/generator (either ATS internal to inverter or on high end models, a second ATS)

Some are wired with ONE plug shore power/generator AND THE OTHER inverter OR shore power/generator.

 

Easy to check by plugging in any 120 VAC appliance to each socket behind the refrigerator with shore power and generator OFF. 

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1 hour ago, sgtjoe said:

The Tech showed up today and found the bathroom GFI was wired wrong.  That would be me.  As far as the Inverter power there are some questions he will be asking Xantraex and he will be back on Thursday afternoon.  He is also thinking that perhaps National did not wire the fridge plug to the Inverter.  His Grandfather's 2001 Dolphin (National) is not wired for Inverter.

Stay tuned for the Inverter Saga Thursday. 

Joe, Welcome to the learning curve that comes with every model and make of RV' on the market. LOL

Then many of us up date what we have just so we can start the learning curve all over again. 

Rich.

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3 hours ago, DickandLois said:

Then many of us up date what we have just so we can start the learning curve all over again.

Tell me about it.:P 

Bill

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22 hours ago, wolfe10 said:

Yes, no "here is how they are all wired".

Some refrigerator outlets are wired for both sockets to be shore power/generator only.

Some are wired for both sockets to be inverter OR shore power/generator (either ATS internal to inverter or on high end models, a second ATS)

Some are wired with ONE plug shore power/generator AND THE OTHER inverter OR shore power/generator.

 

Easy to check by plugging in any 120 VAC appliance to each socket behind the refrigerator with shore power and generator OFF. 

Right! If the receptacle is not wired into the inverter circuit, the ice maker will not work when the fridge is on LP, as it is 120VAC only.

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Well the Tech didn't make it yesterday he had a MH where it had been attacked by Rats.  He's trying to locate and rewire all the chewed up wires.  

I found on You Tube some info about the battery Temp control wire.  Xantraex says to remove it from the battery terminal and fasten it to some where else in the battery compartment.  Seems it could send a false signal to the Inverter.  This must be why when I got the new Inverter there was a new Temp control wire sent with it.  I'm not touching anything since the Tech shut down all power on last visit.  I told him about this and he thinks this might be what caused the old Inverter to fry one of the boards.  We'll see next next Thursday on the 13th, hopefully it will be my lucky day.

 

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FWIW, the installation manual for my old obsolete Xantrex RS2000 states the temp sender must be mounted on a negative battery post unit, not in contact with the battery case.

You may download the installation manual for your specific unit from the Xantrex website.

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The Inverter saga continues.  Tech showed up today and checked ac power coming in to the inverter, it's good.  The Inverter is humming, the Tech suggested when I took the 4 6v batteries out to be tested I put them back in the wrong place.  For example if the batteries were marked 1/1 and the one behind it was marked 1/2 and the other two were marked 2/1 and the one behind it was marked 2/2 when I took them out to be checked and was told all 4 are good and I put them back into the MH I put 1/1 in front of 2/1 and 1/2 in front of 2/2 the batteries were not used to working together and this could be why I'm getting the humming noise and less then 120v on my meter readings when the inverter is turned on.

What do you think Wolfe10, does this sound plausible?  

When I disconnect and remove my batteries I always make a drawing and as each post is disconnected I mark and secure the cables together off that post so I know where they go when I put the batteries back in. This time I will mark the batteries as to which side and front or back.

I also have one battery that takes a lot of water (distilled) each month when I check them.  He thinks this might be a bad battery.  So I'm going to disconnect and remove the batteries tomorrow and let them sit (on wood) until Monday or Tuesday and then have them checked to see if each is putting out 6 volts.  

These were purchased on 14 Aug 2017 at Sam's Club.  They are Duracell 6v GC2 Golf Cart batteries made in the US.

 

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Just remove the one that's taking all the water and have it bench tested.  Leave the others alone!  Been me, I would get another tech, MHO!

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NO, changing where a particular battery is located in a battery bank will not cause your issue.

Now, if they are not hooked up properly electrically, sure that would cause problems. But two (pairs of 6 VDC batteries wired in series)  with each pair wired in parallel is very common and easy to verify.

And any time a competent tech checking an electrical issue starts a sentence with "I THINK".....................  Sorry, you are only interested in FACTS. If wet cell batteries, spend less than $10 and get a battery hydrometer.  Fully charge them and check SG.  VERY easy and you will have the FACTS.

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18 minutes ago, wolfe10 said:

NO, changing where a particular battery is located in a battery bank will not cause your issue.

Now, if they are not hooked up properly electrically, sure that would cause problems. But two (pairs of 6 VDC batteries wired in series)  with each pair wired in parallel is very common and easy to verify.

And any time a competent tech checking an electrical issue starts a sentence with "I THINK".....................  Sorry, you are only interested in FACTS. If wet cell batteries, spend less than $10 and get a battery hydrometer.  Fully charge them and check SG.  VERY easy and you will have the FACTS.

So any thoughts as to the loud humming from the Inverter?

 

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I just read this post from the beginning.  Rich & Richard, alluded to poor ground connection being a culprit. I will add a question, is there any corrosion on the old cables or if tech changed them out with new cables, are they the same gauge wire? 

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IMHO a Humming inverter is a sign that there may be a loose Ground. When ever I check my wiring, first I make sure all power is off then on each correction I will back it off a bit then re tighten each connection, then turn the power back on. 

As for the Tech telling you that you may not have put your batteries back in the same position  as they were taken out of is wrong. The batteries are not bosom buddies and need to be holding hands.  As long as they are wired correctly you should be good to go.

Herman

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