Garyr Report post Posted January 9, 2012 I have changed the oil and filters on several vehicles including motorhomes, but now travel over to a quick change place called Speedco. They are quick if they have a lane open. They may not have all the filters but they can do a complete service for a reasonable price. Gary Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nalcon Report post Posted January 12, 2012 I change my F53 V-10 oil myself, it takes less than an hour including the grease. One little tip. I take a 2 liter coke bottle, cut the ends off and slice it down the middle and then wrap it around the front axle. I let the oil fall over it and into my used oil pan. I use synthetic oil in all my vehicles. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tombrendafalls Report post Posted March 2, 2012 Are you sure once a year is enough? Many require every 6 months regardless of miles, could void you warranty(factory or extended) be very careful with this gives them an easy out. I was told by extended warranty co. (Good Sam) once a year or every 15,000 miles but when questioned them further about this found out to be every 6 months as mfg suggest. BE CAREFUL!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
maintken Report post Posted February 12, 2016 Yes, I have changed my own oils and filters this year. I'm in my early 50s so I'm still sort of flexible ... I have also twisted wrenches on helicopters since '75, so I'm interested and have some expertise. Money is an issue as well. 22 quarts of Shell Rotella T and a Fleetguard filter for my Cummings 315 ISC is a total of $105.. The last oil change was done by the previous owner during the safety inspection in June when we bought this coach and the truck repair centre charged $320 for parts and labour. My wife and I are doing ok financially, but I have many other things to spend $200 on. As many of you have written, an RV makes many demands on the wallet. Besides the money, I wanted to do at least this round of maintenance myself. First to see how and where, second to ensure it was done right before starting our adventures with this house on wheels. Sure enough, I discovered several issues while looking around. The worst of these was finding original filters on the coach that were only changed on paper by a service centre. The coolant filter/additive spin-on cartridge was original, 6 years old. I could tell because the undercoating was still covering the filter. The service documentation said it was changed three years ago. Fortunately the coolant itself was in pretty good shape, but I changed it out to the Cummins approved ELC coolant with the non-additive filter. Should be good for the rated 500,000 miles or three years before adding the coolant additive ... I found a grease fitting that was not greased in the spring, same truck depot that did the oil change. If I have someone do it for me in the future I intend to use Brett Wolfe's idea of giving a throw away copy of the service guide locations. I already printed some copies for this purpose. The truck depot in the spring did not tighten the engine oil filter properly. When I removed it, it took around 50 inch/pounds to spin off. To put it in perspective, my wife could have removed it with a twist of her wrist. I was startled. To put the new one on to the proper torque or one full turn after contact was a two handed affair by me. It was close to coming loose and leaking with the horror show that would entail on an interstate ... My fuel filters, both primary and secondary, were the same Wix part number. The service centre that changed them last must have run out of the proper type and stuck on anything that would fit. Fortunately they were both 10 micron filters and there had been no issue with the fuel system, so there was no damage to the injectors and such. There should have been a 30 micron primary and a 2 micron secondary. However, I also discovered that the water sensor wire connection to the one filter was not connected and was tucked up behind the starter. The filter they put on had a drain but no water sensor. I bought two sets of filters and got everything back to the proper setup. By the way, we went on our first trip before I discovered the fuel filters were incorrect and received my first indication something was wrong when the "water in fuel" light came on in a rain storm! Lastly the air dryer desiccant filter was also supposedly changed/inspected a few years ago; I found undercoating on it as well. The service centers where the errors were made are all over the map. This spring the depot was in Toronto; the other errors were made by centers in Florida and Tennessee a few years ago. The point I'm making is we need to verify when someone is doing work for us, at least as much as possible. Filters and oil are easy to check, or you could have someone do it for you. Get the depot to show you what they putting on your coach and read your literature for the proper part numbers or oil specifications. I will request the Fleetguard filters first(Cummins) or an appropriate alternative. Using the Internet, I found the Wix, Baldwin and Fleetguard cross referenced numbers. Better yet, buy the filters yourself and hand them over to the service center. That will eliminate them scrambling around trying to find a part when they have aready dumped your oil. I have also marked the oil filters in the past to ensure they were actually changed, after I discovered at a car dealership that I was charged but the filter had not been changed. Sorry to sound paranoid, but I have experienced the same sort of stories I have read here on the FMCA forums of poor work being done. By the way, one tip I have about spin on filters; after installing it properly and checking for leaks, take a permanent marker and draw an arrow on the bottom pointing to the front of the coach. You could scratch the paint the same way. This way you can look at it quick and see if for some odd reason it is coming loose. Another little identifying scratch somewhere on the paint of the filter will tell if it was replaced after service. Cheers My experience with all things maintenance related (35 years government, lead maintenance manager) is everything in your post is dead on. I'm a firm believer when it counts, do it your yourself to the extent you can and if you can't then be sure to educate yourself. I always recommend researching symptom's and jotting down potential issues and recommendations and I always recommend a Look, Listen and Feel methodology, as many things can be found by using this approach and much cost and heartache avoided. I mark all belts, hoses and filters with install date this let's me look things over while I'm rooting around. It's always better to find things in your driveway then on the road. I absolutely love the idea of keeping a printed chassis lube and service chart to hand to a anybody I authorize to service my coach when I can't or choose not too. What an awesome tip. THANKS! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wildebill308 Report post Posted February 12, 2016 My experience with all things maintenance related (35 years government, lead maintenance manager) is everything in your post is dead on. I'm a firm believer when it counts, do it your yourself to the extent you can and if you can't then be sure to educate yourself. I always recommend researching symptom's and jotting down potential issues and recommendations and I always recommend a Look, Listen and Feel methodology, as many things can be found by using this approach and much cost and heartache avoided. I mark all belts, hoses and filters with install date this let's me look things over while I'm rooting around. It's always better to find things in your driveway then on the road. I absolutely love the idea of keeping a printed chassis lube and service chart to hand to a anybody I authorize to service my coach when I can't or choose not too. What an awesome tip. THANKS! Welcome to the forum. There is a lot of good info in old post on this forum. You do realize this post is nearly 4 years old. Here is another post you might find useful. http://community.fmca.com/topic/8892-chassis-maintenance-oil-change-recommendation/ If you add your coach to your signature it will help you to get better answers, See my sig as an example. Bill Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
five Report post Posted February 15, 2016 I've done all my vehicle oil changes from my teens...until we got a DP. This one drains 40 quarts, that's lots of oil. I found a small diesel engine shop that works only on diesels, 18 wheeler tractors, bull dozers, cranes, pick ups, etc. They encourage customers to wander around their shop and watch what they are doing. Since I bring my own oil (they don't care) from Sam's, and filter, I know the right oil is going in the crank case. I can also point out some hard to find lube points, and key lube points...like the axle, that they might not know about on a DP. Oil/filter change and complete lube for $65 is hard to beat. In turn, they use the old oil in their shop furnace. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rsbilledwards Report post Posted February 16, 2016 Great thread even if it is an old one. I am 70, limber and exasperated with the way purported professionals treat those that feed them. Statically 50% of the shops are crooked, of the other 50%, half of them are crooked part of the time and that leaves 25% that are worth your patronizing them. This forum can help and does spread the word for both. I too do all of my changes and other maintenance. I will leave the really heavy stuff to ALLISON or CAT. That said both Wagner CAT and Stewart and Stevenson (ALLISON) in Denver were very fair when we discovered the cracked bell housing on the 3126B and when the drive shaft decided to leave and put a hole in the valve body of the transmission. Five thousand miles later all is well in Colorado. Bill Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
manholt Report post Posted February 16, 2016 Bill. Drive shaft needs to be lubed twice a year minimum! I check mine after every trip! I don't think you can over lube, just wipe off the excess so it won't sling all over! Carl Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
five Report post Posted February 16, 2016 Bill. Drive shaft needs to be lubed twice a year minimum! I check mine after every trip! I don't think you can over lube, just wipe off the excess so it won't sling all over! Carl Agree, I lube mine six months after the shop does it...and, as noted above, I insure they do it during the annual lube. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
manholt Report post Posted February 17, 2016 tombrendafalls. What kind of coach are you referring to, that needs new oil every 6 months? In my 40+ years off Class A ownership, gas & diesel, I have never heard of that one! Carl Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hermanmullins Report post Posted February 17, 2016 How do you cast a vote? HERMAN Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
manholt Report post Posted February 17, 2016 Court house! Just heard it on news this morning....Don't care if they advertise or not, made up my mind a long time ago! As for this post? Who knows.....raise your hand, it worked in school ! Carl Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hermanmullins Report post Posted February 17, 2016 Carl Know the drill, problem was every time I raised my hand in class, I was always told to "Stop distrubing the class and you should have gone between classes." I have looked hi and low here and can't find the way to vote, so let me go on record to vote, "No I do not change my own oil." Herman Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wildebill308 Report post Posted February 17, 2016 I think the problem is this thread was started 09 June 2009. Bill Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wildebill308 Report post Posted February 17, 2016 Herman why don't you start a new survey? Then you can vote. Remember vote early and often. Bill Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nitehawk Report post Posted February 17, 2016 I change my oil & filters in our diesel engine. The oil gets VERY black so rather than get it all over me when removing the oil filters I position a catch pan or a pail under the filters. Then I punch a hole in the bottom of each filter and let the oil drain out. No spilling--on me or the ground. No oil running down my arm. I do test if the filters can be unscrewed before I punch a hole in the bottom of the filters with my 18" screwdriver. I do the same procedure on the fuel filters and on the oil filter on our Vue. Easier to clean up and the filters, being drained empty, are merely wrapped in plastic bags and disposed of properly. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
manholt Report post Posted February 18, 2016 Herman. Ditto! Cummins get's mine 2/24, it's been 13 months and 12,693 miles! Mine goes in every 11 to 13 months, regardless of mileage. In 14' I changed oil after 8 months...15K+ miles! This visit will be more extensive than normal, 7 years and 54K+! Carl Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
five Report post Posted February 22, 2016 Most engine manufacturers say to change the oil at xxxx miles or one year, whichever comes first. The Detroit Diesel I have in this Eagle says to change the oil at 35k intervals, no time limit. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wildebill308 Report post Posted February 22, 2016 Yes but how many gallons does it hold. Bill Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
five Report post Posted February 22, 2016 "Holds" over 12.5 gal (50 + qts), takes 10.5 gal (42 qts) at oil change. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jleamont Report post Posted February 22, 2016 "Holds" over 12.5 gal (50 + qts), takes 10.5 gal (42 qts) at oil change. Five, what oil and filter do you run in your Detroit? Which DD is it? 11 or 13? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
five Report post Posted February 23, 2016 This diesel #4 for me...a Duramax in a Chevy pick up, a 27 HP Yanmar in a boat, a 400 HP Cummins ISL, and this one. I've used Shell Rotella 15w40 in all of them. The Detroit Diesel is a DD 13, 12.8L, 500 HP, and 1,650 ft/lbs of torque. The filter was very very hard to find. They are on the internet, but I was informed by Freightliner, the filter has to be the exact one recommended. Some are off by only one letter or one number...but should not be used. The number of the correct filter is A4731800109. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jleamont Report post Posted February 23, 2016 The reason I ask was we have at least 400 DD13's at work, we run Shell Rotella 10w30 full synthetic with Baldwin filters and we see a million miles from them. Great engine! We run the 15w40 on the Series 60's that are still floating around. I guess the filter would be hard to find in an RV application especially since its a canister type and its location, . I would be curious how that engine bay is constructed with a DD13 back there, I hope it at least has a side radiator to give some room. Just curious.....thanks Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
five Report post Posted February 23, 2016 The reason I ask was we have at least 400 DD13's at work, we run Shell Rotella 10w30 full synthetic with Baldwin filters and we see a million miles from them. Great engine! We run the 15w40 on the Series 60's that are still floating around. I guess the filter would be hard to find in an RV application especially since its a canister type and its location, . I would be curious how that engine bay is constructed with a DD13 back there, I hope it at least has a side radiator to give some room. Just curious.....thanks What is "work" for you? I'm curious as to who would have that many DD13s. All American Coaches have side radiators. As for the configuration, the guys who change my oil could not find the oil filter. As I was calling Freightliner, they found it about in the middle of the configuration, a bit off to the curb side. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jleamont Report post Posted February 24, 2016 FIVE, I work full time for a fairly large North East Trucking Co with 1200 tractors and 3000 trailers as a Fleet Manager. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
