Clearance Light Replacement

[john_harris]

Am in the process of replacing several front overhead clearance lights on our 2007 HR Endeavor. Found OEM LED lights and replaced one without a problem. On the second, one of the existing wires came apart at the connector, behind the front clip.

Hole is only 1/2" dia and I can not get to the wire to pull it out. Really don't want to take overhead cabinets out to reach it from behind and not sure that I could get to the wiring even if I did. Could drill another larger hole next to existing that would be covered by clearance light and fish it out from there, but not real excited about that either.

Anyone had similar issue or suggestions?

[wolfe10]

John,

How close is the next nearest light.

Wonder if you could use a fish from one to the other?

Option "B": Probably worth some real time with a straightened coat hanger with small hook formed on the end in the original hole.

[dickandlois]

John,

Brett mentioned using a coat hanger as a fish to retrieve the miss behaving wire(S) just might work. I'm wondering if the the light you changed out was one of the corner ones or one of the group of 3 in the center?

A cost hanger with a hook bent into it and some luck, one might get a hold of them. I often use a piece of copper wire - I like the ground wire out of number 10 or 12 gauge Romex. It is softer an often works a little better when trying to fish wires from the center out to the edge / corner lights, but it still takes a few try's sometimes.

One can splice 2 wires to the OEM pairs and pull them out through the fixture hole in question.

Do the old lights use the twist in type sockets or does each wire connect to the fixture?

Oh! I use 2 6ft. step ladders with a 10 or 12 in. wide plank run between them to work from, one can carefully walk back and forth between 2 locations much easier then climbing up and down multiple times.

One other trick I have used: If you can get a fish wire between the two points. Tie / tape a piece of soft tubing to the fish and pull it back through between the holes.

Should there be some obstructions(insulation) between them, the tube acts like a conduit to push the wires through. When finished pulling wires, you can leave it for future wires or just pull it out after securing the wires well at one end.

Rich.

[john_harris]

The one in question is unfortunately the end one. The good wire remains intact but the crimp connector also is just inside the rather small hole and has practically no slack so I am reluctant to pull on it for fear of pulling it loose too.

On the other clearance light, I clipped the leads to the original lights and added new inline crimped connectors to give me enough slack to work with. on the side lights, I could get to the area behind them so no problem. I will try the fish wire but the size of the holes makes it a tight fit.

[kaypsmith]

There is a hole enlarger which is actually a step drill bit, possibly push the wire down and out of the way then enlarge the hole by one step at a time until it can be pulled through with a wire fish.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/3PC-Hex-Shank-Large-Steel-Quick-change-Steel-Coated-Step-Drill-Titanium-Bit-/400930306997?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5d594efbb5

These can be purchased locally at places like Sears, Harbor freight and other places.

You might want to do a search for a wire pulling grip, we used these devices for pulling the main packing seal, so we didn't have to pull the crankshaft.

[desertdeals69]

I usually run the metal rod (coat hanger) through and pull a string back then use the string to pull a single wire from the light that is OK. Make sure you select the right polarity wire and splice to it.

[john_harris]

Thanks to all. I will keep you posted.

[obedb]

When we bought our '03 Phaeton I did little research. It was close by, May when RVs start to draw interest, former owner needed the money (he said), didn't want to miss the deal so out came the checkbook. After reading the previous posts on this topic, I feel lucky. Each corner overhead cabinet offers easy access to the clearance lights wiring and unhooking 3 cables and lifting the LED TV off of the bracket (less than 5 mins) gives me easy access to the Identification Lights (cluster of three). Newer Phaetons maybe not, but at least I did something right when we bought this one.

[huffypuff]

I would use my 7 mm flexible camera with hook on the end to fish it or look for it from the backside. If you can get to it from the backside make sure there is enough slack in it to push through. If not enough slack you have to add some wire to it.

[obedb]

Where can I find one of those flexible units and what do they cost? Sounds like a good expenditure.

[hermanmullins]

ObedB

Check with Northern Tool or Harbor Freight. I have seen them advertised at both.

Herman

[huffypuff]

This is the one I got. The description here don't say about the led light on the end and the included hook, magnet and mirror that you can hook o the end.

http://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-ARZ604-Alkaline-Battery-Digital-Inspection/dp/B004P643LM

[jleamont]

Also try Home Depot, Rigid makes one, I have a friend that bought it for looking into house walls, works well.

[obedb]

Looks like it would be a handy tool to have in my collection. Better to have it and not need it then need and not have it. Drives my DW crazy though. Home Depot is close by. Harbor Freight is about 20 miles. The one Huff (Ray?) has looks to be the real deal though.

[jleamont]

I have this one (photo below) it works well, the hardest part is trying to maneuver the camera to see what you want to see.

Last year when my fuel lines failed and I thought there was alge in the tank I shoved the camera to the bottom only to find nothing.

[obedb]

Bought the Rigid version today at local Home Depot. Looks like a copy of Ray's AC Delco version. I have a feeling I am going to wish that I had one years ago. $99 and change plus 6% tax

[john_harris]

Thanks for replies. Was able to fish out the wire with coat hanger..all good.

Mark this down as answered.