Fridge Problems

[MarcG40]

Freezer works fridge does not.

 

[dickandlois]

Could you post the model number of the refrigerator and the year of your coach for the Group?

Same on 120 VAC as on propane?

Rich.

[desertdeals69]

You might check the door gasket.

[wayne77590]

My Norcold 1200 door gaskets tore the first year. I fabricated a gasket using Gorilla tape over the old gasket and repairing the tear. I had to do that a couple times in the last several years and the refrigerator is still cooling well. Don't overdo it with the tape. One piece folder around the old gasket will do the job.  This is just FYI for anyone that has a torn gasket. It is my understanding that you cannot replace the gasket but have to replace the door(s).

[hermanmullins]

Wayne, I have sent you a PM.

 

Herman

[FLYINGGRAYS]

I bought a 97 Roadtrek190 with a Dometic RM2310 fridge.  The fridge was unreliable so I took it to an RV center for repairs.  It worked for less than two months before it stopped cooling on propane again and then it stopped working on 12v also.  I like boondocking but do not like running the gen for just the fridge so I ordered a new RM2354 with 3way power that Dometic said is a slide in replacement for my RM2310.

Well, it will slide in the hole but I cannot hook the gas line because the new unit has a power module installed in the exact spot where the gas line enters the opening for the fridge.  I called Dometic to see if the power module could be relocated somewhere else and they said absolutely not.  I asked what can I do and they told me to ask Roadtrek. 

Roadtrek did not know what I was talking about and said I would have to take it to one of their dealers to see what they can do.  The dealers are in Savannah and Jacksonville but both require about a two month wait to schedule work.  Has anyone run into this situation before? It appears the only thing that can be done is to reroute the gas line but that looks like a big job when I thought it was going to be an easy slide in replacement.      

[obedb]

Gotta be a way to reroute the propane tubing using couplers or unions, but that work is tricky. You may need an accomplished gas heating tech, but most companies might be afraid of liability. We had a three way Dometic in our first coach. I was told by a tech that running the unit on DC heat running down the road could run the batteries down. We always ran ours on propane when underway, if in an RV park, switched to a/c. If you decide to try it yourself, do careful precision cuts, and have a soapy spray bottle handy. Can you post a pic or two?

[jleamont]

Call a local propane dealer. They do make rubber hoses to connect, maybe reroute the copper then connect to rubber for the rest of the way?

[FLYINGGRAYS]

Have not learned how to post pictures yet.  Problem is the line also feeds my cooktop with a tee in the line so the reroute gets even more involved.  This looked easy at first so I was going to do it myself.  The local RV dealers are really busy and not so interested.  Maybe a propane dealer will be the answer.  Thanks 

[jleamont]

Photos are simple in the gallery and attach a link on here. I gave up long ago trying to attach photos on the forums.

[obedb]

You might be surprised what you can find in Home Depot or a really good hardware store. Send a pic or two to obedoglesby@gmail.com. I will look at and forward it to Joe . Maybe we can help. I liked dry camping at one time but it usually involves dusty gravel roads. Rear radiators on a DP/ not good. 

[manholt]

If your in Texas, call a plumber...they also do gas!  Don't know about other States !

Carl

[rsbilledwards]

Mark G,
 

Regardless of the frige model, Dometic or Norcold, the freezer works from the same cooling coil as the box. It is not a separate one for freezer and one for frig box. The problem relates to only 2 sources. If the Freezer is working the system is working. The first potential is dried up thermal mastic inside between the hidden coils and the aluminum fins inside the box and is repairable. The second relates to the level of cooling air flow from the lower vent panel on the outside of the cavity in which the frige sits and it's exit out the top vent. It may well be that there is inadequate air flow over the upper most fins of the cooling unit.

There are two things you can do to increase the efficiency in this area. First install a baffle, light aluminum works just fine. Shape it in a shallow U and attach it to the outer wall behind the frig and the opposite edge against the upper finned assembly there by forcing all of the air going from bottom to top to go through the coil and not by it.

The second exercise involves installing fans or a blower assembly to develop more air flow through the system. This is the real secret to making these thing work. Visit arprv.com or rvcoolingwarehouse.com for a full explanation and the blowers, the latter for fans and explanations. Many of these units do not have and air moving to them and work just fine others not so well. I just did this and now it works great.

[FLYINGGRAYS]

I think I can add a picture now.  The tee and copper line are located where the power module are on the new fridge.  

[tmoning]

To add pictures: When replying, drag files to attach, or "choose files." See attached screen capture.

 

[jleamont]

All I get is an error message.

Something like 0gb allowed you exceeded the allowed file size.

My old iPhone would work, the new one with the better camera will not, picture too clear?

[obedb]

Take a pic or two and forward it to obedoglesby@gmail.com . I will forward it Joe and others if they can help. Our local True Value fabricates hydraulic lines and air lines. The pressure on a propane line would be much lower than either of those. Gotta be able to reroute the line. Where are you located? Carl pointed out that plumbers in Texas do gas work also. Probably true in many other states.