ronandsue74 Report post Posted July 1, 2016 Yesterday my friend had his chassis batteries replaced with new batteries identical to the original. The coach is a 2010 Fleetwood Discovery with a 350HP Cummins engine and a Spartan chassis. During his drive home he noticed that his 12 volt powered chassis lights stopped working. He lost his turn signals, brake lights, running lights, head & tail lights, possibly more I'm not sure. The strange thing is his lights work if the engine isn't running. Upon starting the engine all lights stop working after the engine runs for about 30 seconds. This problem did not exist until after he had his batteries changed. ANY SUGGESTIONS/HELP will be greatly appreciated. RJ Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
obedb Report post Posted July 1, 2016 Replacing my chassis batteries would be a real task. Two group 31 (big batteries) with two smaller 6 volt golf cart batteries in the way. The other two 6 volt batteries would not have to be removed to be out of the way. Big heavy cables running everywhere and many smaller special purpose wires to be removed. Detailed pictures should be taken and masking tape labels applied with remounting instructions. My guess is whoever did the replacement screwed up. If everything worked fine before but doesn't now, what else could it be? IMHO Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wolfe10 Report post Posted July 1, 2016 Agreed, Likely either cable left off or not properly tightened. As Byron said, best advice is to label all wires/cables and make a wiring diagram AND take a picture of it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
manholt Report post Posted July 1, 2016 RJ. Have your friend call Spartan and get a wire diagram. Or call Cummins. Carl Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dickandlois Report post Posted July 2, 2016 Ron, lights work when engine is not running, Take a look at the way they wired the 2 - 12 volt chassis batteries(Series 31) They should be connected in parallel not series (i.e. 12 VDC, not 24 VDC). Positive of one connected to positive of the second and negative to negative, Positive to the alternator output or if the coach is equipped with a battery isolator - the alternator going to the center connection (ALT) and one output going to the chassis batteries and one coach batteries. There is an addition of the FMC magazine that pictures the proper wiring diagram and I just can not find the year or month that its in. This link comes close-but there are 6 volt batteries in series parallel for the coach 12 volts. http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/pdfs/howtos/Tech_Battery_Isolator_Circuts.pdf Rich Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RodgerS Report post Posted July 2, 2016 RJ, It would probably be helpful if your friend became a member and could directly interact with the experienced members. Much usually gets lost in a three-way translation. =================== No mention of who did the changeout, but likely not someone with much experience with RVs, which leads to... RVs are great learning tools, money pits, and all good things come to those who are very, very patient. At least that is what they tell me. Rodger S. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
obedb Report post Posted July 2, 2016 Someone with a multimeter, talent like Rich, Brett, or possibly even me, might be able to figure out where cables and wires go. It is intuitive. Rich is an electronics guy obviously. I trained for 8 months as a Nike Missile technician. Whoever does that would have to be there. Indescribable. Looking for no resistance, some resistance, whatever. A mess if you remove things and don't remember where they go when you are done. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RodgerS Report post Posted July 3, 2016 I guess it is even worse when you pay someone to make a mess of it. ObedB, have you ever thought about putting a PowerProbe into your tool box? Rodger S. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tbutler Report post Posted July 3, 2016 It sounds to me that the system is working fine until the engine is started. Since the engine starts, the batteries must be connected correctly. The problem occurs once the alternator comes on line and starts producing current. I would start by checking the connections for the alternator. It could be just a matter of a single wire in the wrong place. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jleamont Report post Posted July 6, 2016 On July 3, 2016 at 8:42 PM, RodgerS said: I guess it is even worse when you pay someone to make a mess of it. ObedB, have you ever thought about putting a PowerProbe into your tool box? Rodger S. I carry one, love that tool. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
huffypuff Report post Posted July 6, 2016 1 hour ago, jleamont said: I carry one, love that tool. When the power probe came out it didn't take me long to get one. I wouldn't leave home without it now. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jleamont Report post Posted July 6, 2016 7 hours ago, huffypuff said: When the power probe came out it didn't take me long to get one. I wouldn't leave home without it now. I even carry extension leads since the batteries are so far behind me. Trying to find a ground and 12 volt power source in the same area has been proven to be difficult. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hermanmullins Report post Posted July 6, 2016 I found a bag on the road one day, after I retrieved it I opened it up and found a brand new Power Probe with all the accessories. I traveled in my job for over 40 years and have found many interesting things laying on the road. A plastic lawn chair, a 3 foot long 2 1/2 open box end wrench (was in oil patch country),an 8 foot fiberglass step ladder just to mention a few. I keep the Power Probe in the coach tool box at all times. The DW claims that I carry too many tools in the coach , I sometimes say I don't carry enough . Herman Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
manholt Report post Posted July 6, 2016 Ray. Welcome back ! Have you sold/or decided to keep your RV? How's Hana doing? What is a "Power Probe" ? Carl Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
huffypuff Report post Posted July 6, 2016 Carl The power probe is a DC electronic circuit tester with long leads that hooks to either the battery (outside) or power outlet (inside). I hardly ever use the old test light anymore but still use the fluke meter. We haven't sold the coach yet as the market is being tough on us. Perfect coach in perfect shape with tire kickers coming around but no takers. Very frustrating as the start of the season has passed. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hermanmullins Report post Posted July 6, 2016 Ray, Spent some time in the Boating Industry. Dealers sell all year round with good results, but I found that to best time to try to sell a boat and in your case a motor home was around the time of the local RV and or Boat shows. I have seen both at shows parked in the lots with For Sale signs where they have had great results. Hope Hana is doing better. You both in our prayers. Herman Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
