JohnQFWB

That's the PLAN!!!! Especially when I start seeing more & cheaper HD Receivers on Fleabay. DirecTV & Dish for that matter have bad manners (customer service) when you lease THEIR receivers.

Satellite Dome Replacement Currently we have a King-Dome 9702 Satellite Dome Antenna set up to receive DirecTV Standard Definition (SD) TV signals in our motorhome. It has performed quite well for the last 3 years, finding the 101 satellite fairly quickly. But lately, finding the 101 satellite fails and takes quite a bit of time in the failure. By accident, I discovered that it seems to switch what satellite it is looking for. Then I have to monkey with the satellite selector switch, again another pain. So I am considering replacing the King-Dome 9702 with either a King-Dome 9762 or a Winegard Trav’ler SK-3005. I want to stay with the existing Samsung Standard Definition Satellite receivers (S-70 & S-303) because I “own” them and do not want to lease anything from DirecTV or expensive HD receivers. I know the 9762 is compatible with standard definition so that is a plus but my current problems with the 9702 is a minus. I know the SK-3005 looks for and finds 3 different satellites automatically (a big plus) and one of them is the 101 satellite (another plus). What I do not know is whether or not the SK-3005 can receive Standard Definition signals and is compatible with my Samsung Standard Definition receivers. And if I read the advertisement correctly, it says on the SK-3005 dish that it is a “Slim Line” antenna, yet another, is it compatible with my Samsung SD Receivers. Can owners of the SK-3005 give me some clarification on my lack of knowledge regarding Standard Definition and Samsung Receivers compatibility?

Well the Commander In Chief has said she wants a dishwasher and I do not want a built in one. So that leaves the sit on the counter top and clamp onto the sink faucet types. Does anybody have any experiences (good or bad) with the type, make and model please.

I finally got tired of the original in dash (double din) radio in our coach. Actually it was a tad dangerous since it was placed low and right on the dash requiring that I stretch to reach it and the display was hardly visible. Then, the Co-pilot wanting to change the station a lot was a bit much. Then to compound the radio problems, I got a Sirius satellite radio setup from Radio Shack. As we went down the superslab I would now have to coordinate (while driving) tuning two radios since the Sirius kind of piggybacked onto the main radio FM frequencies. I started shopping and the Important Requirements were that any replacement radio had to be "Tuneable" with a remote (no more reaching -- we both would get a remote), Large Display, Bluetoothable for cell phone connection, and fully integrated with a Sirius Hide-a-way tuner. I got from Fleabay a Pioneer FH-8000BT Radio that fitted the requirements above, had it installed with a new integrated Sirius Tuner. I was a bit worried about whether or not I should also get/install an external antenna for the Sirius side of the setup. But I read somewhere that I could use the antenna that came with the Sirius Tuner and mount it above the entertainment cabinet near my fiberglass roof on the coach getting the signal through that roof. The installer was a bit skeptical whether or not I would even get a signal through the roof. He had the new Radio & Sirius all installed and the only thing remaining was to test the Sirius antenna. Well, he started by getting up (standing) on my pilot seat with the antenna in hand and didn't even get it up as high as the bottom of the cabinet when the satellite signal came in loud and clear. That antenna puck is now installed via double side sticky tape on top of the entertainment cabinet out of any weather with no hole drilling in the coach.

I want do do something similar, i.e., add an extend-a-stay. However the way my coach is setup I have been told it would not fit. The coach propane tank sit perpendicular to the frame just aft of the driver's side front tire. It is very crowded in there. I know that the coach system supplies propane (vapor) to the stove, hot water, refrig, and heater, and (liquid) on a separate line to the generator. What I would like to do is get a large external propane with a regulator and then tap into, i.e., Feed into the vapor line bypassing the on-board system. I'm pretty sure that I would have to first turn off the existing coach tank vapor valve, and then turn on this new source at the external tank. Is this feasible and safe????

Well, the postman just delivered my new Big Rigs Best Bets campground directory. I then read all three pages on this Thread, since we will be passing through Van Horn on the way to Mississippi next April. I then checked for Van Horn Texas in the new campground directory and sure enough right there on the bottom of page 383 is Van Horn listing two RV Parks (www.vheaglesnest.com & www.vanhorntexaskoa.com). First thing I did was to go to each website, get the Contact email address and sent them an email message saying that he11 would freeze over before we would stay in their parks because of that #$%^&*(*&^% City ordinance. Then I crossed off those two parks on the bottom of page 383.

We were at a Safari MH Rally a couple of years back and one owner had a Gold Colored 2001 Safari Zanzibar that he had a "Slight Mishap" on the front fiberglass bumper area. He had the fiberglass bumper repair but instead of just repainting the gelcoat, he had it sprayed with the correct color coded Arma Coat. He said it looked so good that he had the same shop clean his Fiberglass Roof and also sprayed the roof the same way. You really had to get up close to distingush the bumper from the rest of the coach (it was the "texture" that was the only difference).

Got a new to us Ford Explorer, so the next step was getting the (choke choke) expensive ($249) Neutral Tow Kit (NTK -- $1.95 LED with connector and a set of programming instruction). Had it installed at the local Ford Stealership with another $60 installation fee. At that price, you should expect that it was done correctly. WRONG!!!!!!! I had a problem with my Roadmaster Even Brake system, i.e., it indicated a fault the first time I tried to hook it up in the new Explorer. Took it to my local RV Fix it shop and they worked on it. They also at the time wired the new Explorer for towing. Turned out to be a stuck compressor. So I thought I had better get experience with the Exploders Neutral Tow Switch. In the driveway yesterday, I tested it -- half a dozen times and it DID NOT WORK, no blinking light!!!! Called the RV Fix It Shop to verify that what they did could not interfear with the neutral tow switch. Shop verified and 'Splained to me in terms I could understand, and I did. Called the Installing Ford Stealership who over the phone swore it was because I was NOT hooked up to the coach. I called a Big BS on that excuse so they said bring it in, and I did. Without even looking at the Exploder they said (again) that the reason it did not work was because it was not hooked up to the coach. That's when I somewhat (OK read them the riot act) dressed them down, giving them a lesson in EPROM Programming (I am one of the earlisest Computer Programmers from back in the 1950's). They quickly said they would hook up the Exploder to the diagnostic machine (Computer) and did. About 20 minutes later, the service writer waves my keys at me saying it's all done. Of Course (in my most sarcastic way) said, "What Was Done?" Well he sez, the diagnostic machine (computer) said it was NOT ENABLED, BUT WAS REPROGRAMMED!!!! So I sez, "The NitWit Tech entered all the revised EPROM Instructions, but did NOT hit the ACCEPT OPTION?" A Very Weak "Yes" was said to which I retorted -- NITWITS!!!! Lesson Learned -- Always verify the work performed right there and before you leave.

Well as Larry the Cable Guy sez, Get'r Done, I Got'R Done!!!! Swallowed hard on the costs but what a difference in shifting, in a word smmmmmmmmmmmmmooooooooooooooootttttttttttttttttttttttttttthhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh but firm. Glad I did it.

Dave Root RV Glass out of Bend, Or., and he also "Tours" the snowbird sites during the winter season. Knows his stuff, reasonable, and does high quality work. Google up his website because I think he now offers a DIY kit that he will mail. I have also heard if you are handy enough and pull your own problem window and ship it to him, he will repair and send back.

Hi, Couple of years ago we bought a 1997 Safari Serengeti M-4040 that was very well documented. It now has 92,000 miles on the clock. I could not find anything regarding the Allison transmission service. In a couple of months from now (it is stored & not going anywhere) I plan on having the Allison serviced. The RV shop that I use said for the transmission fluid I have two options. The old normal Dinosaur Fluid or the newer Transynd. He rightly pointed out to me that the Old Dinosaur fluid is OK and should last for the time I will have the coach (probably 4 - 5 more years). But he also pointed out that the newer Transynd is quite a bit better fluid but significantly more expensive, and questioned the value of it over the old stuff. I am a fuss budget on maintenance and want reliability first and foremost but he has me at an indecision point. What direction would you recommend and why?

I would suggest that you break the trip in half. Coming down I-5 southbound, go around the east end of Portland Via I-205 and over night at Clackamette Park at the confluence of the Williamette River and the Clackamas rivers in Oregon City. It is a Clackamas County Park. As a reference, as you exit I-205, the park is behind the McDonalds across McLoughlan Blvd. Easy to get to and set up, and the best part is it is only $20 a night for 30 amp electric & water (sorry no on site dump, it's over by the boat launch). For Satellite antenna aiming considerations, select one of the North end spots. To continue your trip to Bend, backtrack about 5 miles north bound on I-205 to the Boring/Damascus exit, that is a short cut to Hwy 26 going to Bend. That shortcut puts you on Hwy 26 south of Gresham.

Nuttin' Just make darn sure you tow with the VW key in that very difficult to get to Accessory Position.

Got a good used one on FleaBay for $65, works great, except that I had to replace the silly coil hose that came with it due to an air leak. The problem I had was getting a good (Non-China) heavy duty tire pressure gauge. Finally found one (can't remember the name) that my old truck driving neighbor recommended. Again, got it on FleaBay.

Since I live in Port Angeles area and have numerous trips to Vancouver Island via the Coho, I'll chime in. Shouldn't be a problem. Going to Victoria (North Bound), you load driving straight on the rear of the ferry. As mentioned, follow the loaders directions. Eighteen Wheelers typically are side by side with you. Getting off is a little more difficult. You exit via a big door on the right side of the ferry near the front of the ferry. If the loader gives you a preference when loading I would recommend to you that you take as far left lane as possible, that way you get maximum amount of right turning swing going out the exit hatch. The ferry docks on both sides offer plenty of room to maneuver. They try to "stack the cars" on the outside lanes and off load them first. That way, larger rigs have more maneuvering room. Another hint, especially when traveling north. Try to take that days last ferry north. That way, you can park ovenight in the Government Buildings parking lot. Last time across, they did not mind it at all. You do have to rise & shine early enough to be on your way up island so the government workers can use the lot. If going up Island on the Island Hwy, about 50 miles north of Victoria there is a Log Cabin Style restaurant on the east side of the hwy that has some of the best breakfast you will ever eat. Don't forget to stop at the Cowichan Native Heritage Centre on the south end of Duncan, and I betcha you won't be able to resist getting one of the hand-knitted sweaters. The real beauty of the Island is the wild and rugged west coast (be prepared for a very narrow & twisty & scarey road), and north of Campbell River. We are especially fond of the Port McNeil/Alert Bay area and our very favorite RV/Marina is Alder Bay (www.alderbayresort.com) on Telegraph Cove road. High season, they are booked very early, resevations are adviseable. The BC Ferries out of Twaueesun (sp.) are quite a bit larger than the Coho and are designed to be double ended. That means they are straight on and straight off. The downside is you kind of miss Victoria.

We tow a 2002 VW Jetta TDI 5 Speed manual Transmission. No Problems, can't even tell it's back there. The 99.5 thru 2004 (MKV Platform) Jettas share the same platform & drivetrain as the Beatles so it would be OK if & only if it is a manual transmission.

Plus 1 for recommending Dave Root in the Bend, OR area. More than satisfied & highly recommend him.

Here's the artist (http://jerrydame.com/about) and his family that painted the Murals on the Back of Safari Motorhomes, mine has a charging bull elephant.

Good News For Ford TOADs I was pursuing another RV oriented website and the discussion in a thread caught my eye. The subject was the infamous & no longer in stock Ford Neutral Tow Switches, essential for Toad'ing Ford SUV's. Somebody thought a new company in Texas was now making and selling them for Ford Vehicles. So I googled up the company, Victory Climate Systems. Got an email first thing this morning with a positive confirmation, here's the particulars: "We do manufacture Neutral Tow Kits for Ford vehicles. You can call and order them at 817-293-3331. We accept Mastercard and Visa Victory Climate Systems 1-874-293-3331" That is good news for us since we are considering a new (to us) Toad since the "Superior German Engineered VW Jetta" is a bit too delicate for the Goat Trails on our Rock Hounding adventures.

OK folks, I search the Remco website and was totally confused. I may have a opportunity to pickup a 1992 Ford Explorer with only 44,000 miles on the clock. It is in mint condition, driven only 3 to 4 days per week a short distance to town. It is an automatic but does have the floor mounted transfer case shifter. The transfer case can be shifted into true neutral. Is It TOADable???? If so & I get it, to tow, I shift the transfer ase into neutral, what position do I leave the automatic transmission in????

I have been a DirecTV customer since 1998 without any problems activating new (used) receivers. They do have a policy regarding the "Oldest Receivers." They will not activate (for a new customer) a receiver that does not have a Receiver ID Number (RID). They need the make, model, serial number & RID number, then they will send you a "New Card" for the price of $20 or $25. I wouldn't even tell them it is in a motorhome, just tell them it's in your home, that way you can shuffle it back and forth.

Cross Posted from my Safari MH Website: Just a report on a "Combination of adapters/cables/antenna" that I got. First the problem is our metal skinned coaches, not good for WiFi reception unless your laptop is pointing out a window. Your laptop's WiFi antenna is merely a thin wire loop running around the display screen, again not a really good antenna for reception. Well we went down to Portland (SalesTaxFreeLand!!!!) for a GrandKiddies fix and shopping, and I got a trip to Frey's in Wilsonville. After much discussion with a 20 something expert, I wound up buying a Hawking HWUNG Hi-Gain Wireless-N USB Adapter (has a removeable short antenna), Trendnet Low Loss Reverse SMA to N-Type cable (8 meters), and an Omni-directional Trendnet 8 db TWE-A0080 outdoor antenna (with right angle mount). First test was here at home where my Sticks & Bricks home network is a 11 mbps Link-Sys wire & wireless router. Very good reception & internet speeds. I installed the Hawking software via a DVD which was very easy to follow and simple to do. Then it instructed me to plug in the Hawking USB Adapter & save the existing Profile. Did that and no problems, and that's when I looked down at the lower right corner of the screen and noticed 2 connection icons. Clicked on the linksys one & it showed a status as excellent at 11 Mbps. I clicked on the new second icon and was shocked to say the least. It showed a status of Excellent & 54 Mbps speed, WOW'zers, that is FAST. Apparently I was direct connecting to the radio station repeater that is on my property directly and not going through the Link-Sys router. Blazing internet speeds. Then I thought (which my wife says is dangerous most of the time), if that's good, a bigger external antenna must be BETTER. So I unscrewed the small antenna from the Hawking Adapter and connected the larger Trendnet 8 db antenna. It is better & the signal reach is also amazing. My neighbor has a DSL modem setup with a wireless router. Our lots are square 5 acre lots to give you an idea of distance. No Problem of piggybacking onto that wireless router. The external Trendnet antenna has a mounting system that can be permanently mounted, i.e., to the upper side of the coach. It is approximately 3/4's of an inch in diameter and about 2 feet long. That option would be to mount it high near the roof line so that the antenna would be higher than the roof line. It would also require yet another hole in the coach for for that reason I am opting out of that configuration. The antenna mount also can be "Pole Mounted" via two "U" bolts, and then the options can be as simple as a collapseable pole 12 feet long/high, or a pole in a tripod ala external satellite antenna setup which I also have. I am favoring that approach. Now the only problem will be getting the Trendnet cable inside of the coach with out going through a window, or drilling another hole. I can run the cable into the basement via the cable TV/Communication access port. Does anyone have an idea how I could run the cable from the basement up into the coach living room preferrably the passenger side??? The next time we are on the road, I'll report on the quality & Speed of WiFi receptions. The total cost of the 3 items was just under $80 at Frey's because they had a sale on the Hawking adapter.

Texnet, I am very interested in your Ubiquiti Bullet setup. My Bricks & Sticks Internet connection is via Ubiquiti gear and is quite reliable, and the service provider swears by it's reliability. My main problem is my Safari Serengeti coach's metal skin, Not Good for WiFi Reception at Parks. Then I compound that problem with a very "Aged Laptop", an IBM ThinkPad T30 with an early WiFi setup. I am considering a Ubiquiti WifiStation-EXT due to it's ability to receive power from the laptop via a USB connection. My goal here is to get the optimum Wifi Reception from the Outside of the Metal Skinned Coach to the Inside and the T30 Laptop. Please "Critique" my plan, and add or subtract any thoughts/options, i.e., a different antenna on the WifiStation-EXT. Thanks -- JohnQ

We TOAD a 2002 VW Jetta TDI Manual Transmission, no problem. And the newer Beatles are built on the same "Platform" as the Jetta's, so the same would apply.

First of all I have a King-Dome 9702 (high profile), and DirecTV Standard Definition (SD) with a Samsung S70 & a Sony Sat-A1 receivers. If you are the gambling type, and somewhat cheap like me, try eBay for Used. I got my King-Dome that way for around $400 including shipping. Had to pay another $300 for the installation, so be aware of all costs. And make sure whatever satellite receivers you buy (if used like off of eBay), make sure they are capable of having a Receiver Identication Number (RID & different than a serial number). Dish & DirecTv will no longer activate old owned SD receivers that do not have an RID. I am now shopping for a replacement for the sony, it is HOT in that cabinet, and I cannot stand thir menuing system. I really like the Samsung due to it's size and low heat producing and the menu system is very good. And If I can find a 310W, I can "Digitally Fiber Link/Connect" to the Home Theater system on board. The bottom line advise here is to shop for what receiver(s) that will fit, consume the least amount of power (and heat production), and menu system. Also, be aware that some domes only have one LNB and other have two. That means you can have one or two receivers, dual LNB's are essential in "Our" motorhome. And like someone else (above) mentioned HD TV is a whole other Ballgame, and it is my understanding that those domes that "Do Dish" are a better option for HD.