vtbigdog

If you can provide the make and model of the heater you may find some experienced users who can help you diagnose the problem and possibly repair it

tmoning, Theoretically, once a User signs into the Community Sign In Page, and then migrates through the different pages and then closes their browser without Signing Out, wouldn't their Username and Password still be stored in their Browser so that future access to an FMCA page would always indicate the User is "Logged in", meaning the prompt they see in the upper right hand corner would be "Sign Out" Assuming the above is correct, some users may be having to log in every session because they are not storing the cookie, properly as a result of a browser or anti-virus setting. Thanks for your assistance.

Received an email with steps to exactly replicate the problem. More to follow shortly but the iinability to sign in on the Forum Page without getting the Token Error may indicate the Username and Password Fields on the Forum Page are not configured properly, or were recently changed. Here are the steps: 1) go to home page and Sign Out 2) Close the Browser 3) Open the browser and go to www.FMCA.com 4) Check to Make sure you are not logged in. If so, repeat the steps above 5) click on forums in menu bar 6) now on the forums page, click on "Sign In" at top in black menu bar and it takes you to error page, but there is still a prominent place to sign in and you get token error if you try. I received this error as well. The inability to sign in directly on the Forum Page Error may indicate the Username and Password Fields on the Forum Page are not configured properly, or were recently changed. I think its time to forward these steps to the FMCA Webmaster to correct. Brett, any idea how to do that?

Try going to the following page: http://www.fmca.com/ Then click the "Sign Out" button. Then re-enter your Username and Password and click "Sign In". Now try to move around the site to make sure everything works. Then close your all browser windows and then open a new one and click on your "Favorite" Bookmark that your use to access the site and try to replicate your issue. If your continue to get the Invalid Token Error and your favorite is not directing you to http://www.fmca.com/ then it is quite possible that a change was made to the screen you are accessing that would not allow an unsolicited login to that page any longer. Either that or your computer is not properly storing the Cookie that is supposed to be stored when you log into FMCA (logging out and then back into FMCA as indicated above should send a new cookie). Your computer can have trouble storing Cookies as a result of settings on your Antivirus program. So try the above and let us know the results. If it still fails, please copy and paste the page your Favorites is trying to open. It may not work that way for everyone...which would tend to indicate an FMCA software change as opposed to a computer or antivirus issue.

I would tighten all connections before replacing. BE CAREFUL.

Not sure what browser you are using but you may be able to see a "Tools" tab. Click on that and (if Internet Explorer) the Internet Options. Then select the Browsing History Tab and delete the "Temporary Internet Files", "Cookies", "Passwords"and "History". Then close the Windows and then Close the Browser. You will be required to re-enter your Username and Password again for all sites, but this should fix the Token Error. Please post another note with the outcome. Another issue that has periodically come up with this site is Users who are not accessing the proper page from their Favorites.

Paul, glad we could help. Keep other questions coming...and you will get responses from a lot of people who do know what they are talking about.

AARP through The Hartford has the lowest rates I could find.

There should be a drain in one of your lower compartments.

Rich, what I intended to imply is that the inverter would not be supplying 120V to anything on the coach when the coach is plugged into shore power.

If you are plugged into shore power, I did not think the inverter was inverting (meaning providing 120V to the RV). It may be charging the battery bank, but why would it need to invert when shore power is connected? I would more likely think you are having a problem with your Surge Guard. If shore power is interrupted I would think there would be an error display on your Surge Guard or the voltage light is flashing. If you do not touch anything and wait 128 seconds for the Surge Guard to recycle, does the power come back on without unplugging the power cable? When you unplug the power cable, you are causing the Surge Guard to restart. In the manual for the Surge Guard there is a troubleshooting section that states the following condition: L1 and L2 are within range (102 – 132VAC) and there is no power. 　 • Call TRC Technical Support at 1-800-780-4324. 　Why not call them and see what they say?

Dumb question, but I wonder if window fogging would be covered under an Extended Service Plan? After all it is a defect.

I believe Sumitomo also makes Dunlop Tires in the USA.

Actually knowing what temperatures he is seeing would be helpful. Running on the hot side is different than overheating. 250 degrees seems to be the line. This transmission measures the sump temperature. I am assuming he has some device installed to measure the transmission temperature and can provide the ambient temperature as well. We don't know where he lives or the grades of the roads he travels. It would be helpful to know the terrain where he sees the temperature rise. If you in the mountains and seeing temperature increases going uphill, or seeing larger temperature increases coming downhill the determining factor may be the speed of the coach. Doing 70 up and down hills will generate a lot more heat than 60. Knowing what speed he has the cruise control set to on a relatively level Interstate would also be helpful. Running the transmission at below the recommended operation temperature is not good and if he is in the cold belt the transmission may never get up to operating temperature.

Here is your manual.... http://www.allisontransmission.com/servlet/DownloadFile?Dir=publications/pubs&FileToGet=OM3752EN.pdf

Thats an interesting question. The license plate would be obscured by towing any trailer to car behind a motorhome...and especially so if you have a truck towing a 5th wheel...

If you are using the Eastern Arc satellites, did you know that all but about 5 stations (none of which I watch) are located on one satellite? that wouuld negate the need to have 3 LNBs.

Yes Autozone sells them, so go there, get your codes read by them and then buy the Scangauge

I have a Workhorse chassis and can say I have not had any issues with it. Regardless of what you buy, you will always have issues, but a lot of issues can be avoided if you can get maintenance records from the previous owner(s), as well as a vehicle inspection. I also believe there were two transmission options in 2007. One was a GM and the other was an Alllison 6-speed. Both are acceptable but the Allison seems to be more bullet-proof

There are two ways to figure this our yourself... 1. Take your motorhome to an AutoZone or Advance Auto parts. They will attach a device and tell you what the code is and reset it for you 2. Invest in a Scangauge, which will provide you all kinds of information concerning the operation of your engine, as well as read the codes and reset the codes. I have the same engine and my Scangauge will tell me all kinds of great things such as water temperature, transmission temperature, oil life, throttle position, engine load, alternator volts, etc. Well worth the piece of mind when traveling down the road

I am assuming there is a OBDII diagnostic connector under your dashboard. If so, you can drive to an AutoZone or Advance Auto Parts place and have them see if any codes are appearing...there may have been a flashing "Check Engine" light that appeared during the event but you did not notice it. If there are no codes, I would suspect a fuel delivery problem. How many road miles were put on in the last three months prior to this trip? Since you are the new owner you may not know, but if it sat around with gas in the tank and little use, the tank and fuel injection system may have varnished. There are products you can buy to add to your gas to clean the injectors but you should change the fuel filter first.

Brett, I am guessing the overflow valve the OP is referring to is the relief valve. I believe for most water heaters you can disconnect the hose and open a hot water faucet and then open the relief valve as opposed to draining the radiator. Let it suck in some air and then close it. Its a lot less messy and also a good way to work the relief valve a few times...which may also be part of his issue...calcium deposits on the relief valve.

Are you running a tag axle? What do you have for a coach? What are your corner weights and how much air are you running in the tires?

My apologies. I was not trying to make light of the situation. Please note the OP asked "How likely is it that the car will shift position if not secured?" Your Chevy Van may not have a steering wheel lock, but the original reference was to a "car" and not a Van. That is why my question asked what kind of "car(s)" are being towed. I am not aware of any modern cars that do not have a steering wheel lock. I am not saying there aren't any, only that I am not aware of any. Again I apologize for my response.

The last vehicle I owned that did not have a steering wheel lock as a 1972 Ford Bronco. When you pull out the key it may move a little, but if you firmly turn it to the left and right it should lock. What kind of car(s) are you towing?