dickandlois

If I recall correctly I found the fuse to the accessories in the power box in a bay above the LP Tank and also in the fuse box in front of the engine. Question, are you saying that there a two fuses for the accessories? If that is the case, you only had one fuse that failed? of the 2? The DRL's Daytime Running lights are powered from another fuse, the 10 amp fuse only feeds the power relay. Now on most units the DRL's are only on when the unit is in gear! The same goes for the Step control circuit,TV lock out while moving and The HWH leveling circuit power. All these items have other main power fuses feeding there respective loads. You did not mention if your accessory outlets where still working and they often have a 20 amp fuse in the chassis fuse box, supplied by the chassis builder. I do not think it is necessary to increase the size of the failed fuse at this time. Should you have further issue with this fuse. A call to the coach builder and the chassis builder might be in order. Keep us posted. Rich.

When the exhaust manifold failed on the coach we lost all the boost. So being a very adventures sole, I decided to do the work myself. Not for the faint of heart !! Tight area to work and one needs tools that most Do it your self owners do not have. Rusted parts and even with the large torch set, they played hard to remove. Got all the bolts out but one that proved to be very challenging. The only way to get the Turbo loose was to remove it with the manifold after removing all the air intake, and output lines from the turbo along with the exhaust brake and the oil lines. Installed all the manifold parts, a new manifold, gaskets and bolts. Then proceeded to remove the turbo from the old manifold. This required cutting it free, very carefully. Because the spool assembly was well with in specks. An a new turbo is a little costly. ouch !!! Good thing is I did find that parts to completely rebuild it where out there, but I'm thinking that if it lasts as long; I'm not going to be quit as eager to try it a second time. LOL Replaced the Waste gate control parts and then set the per-load pressure to engine specifications. Yes it took a number of hrs and a little over $1200.00 Link to video on how the Waste-gate and VGT Turbos work. Second link to Turbo Operation information. http://www.dieselclass.com/Engine%20Files/VGT%20Turbochargers%209-05.pdf Road Test today proved rewarding. The thing actually worked, with a nice boost curve that had been an issue for the last 2 years. Nice to have good power again !!! Rich. Note, The key trick is to use reduced air pressure for the impact wrench and a reasonable amount heat. I did not want to get into removing the head. The number one bolt next to the turbo flange was the only one that had rusted enough to brake ! It was accessible, but required the old fire and ice trick and some penetrating oil. That finely did the trick. Chased out threads and all was good.

f301359, Thanks for your reply! Interesting that the fuse you found was only a 10 amp! Most of the information I have mentions the Chassis builders fuse is 20 amp. The fact that you where reading voltage on both ends of the fuse, even when it was defective; kind of tells me that you where might be using a digital meter. They do not load the circuits like the older meters. This is a time when a test a light, might have found the problem on the first try. The technical term for this issue when using a digital meter is Capacitive cupping. Happens when you have 2 possible 12 volt sources. The second source in your case is the entry step, that is also powered from the coach 12 volts when the engine is not running. When you get time, could you post the circuit and or fuse used for the Accessory output(s). Think there is a small change in the chassis builders wiring on your model chassis. Thanks ! Rich.

Radiographer, Look up the preload pressure for your turbo !!! If the preload is, say 25lbs. That is the point where the waste gate should start to open. To much boost and you can damage the engine. Setting the pre-load properly is critical !!!!! Freeing up the pivot pins and linkage should help and you did mention that it was moving much easier. The pre load on my turbo is 29.9lbs. I set it with a low pressure air regulator in the line so it was easier to read the proper pressure. You set the point with the threaded coupler so it just slides over the waste gate actuator pin at the required pressure. Being 29.9 in my case, that keeps the gate closed until it opens at 29.9 psi. The VGT turbos work a little different and are controlled by the ECM. This change was made to meet the newer EPA standards. Rich

Radiographer! Welcome to the Forum! The issue Brett referred to is not uncommon and I just finished repairing my exhaust system and took some pictures of exhaust brake assemble. So I took the time to post them in the photo gallery. http://community.fmca.com/gallery/album/466-exhaust-brake-system/ Rich.

Denise, Welcome to the FMCA Forum !! I found a link to the Owners Manual for a 1983 Southwind Coach, it that is the model you have. There is no mention of a leveling system in the manual. So if you could attach some pictures of your coach and the leveling system, the group might be able to fill in some of the gaps. Link. http://fleetwoodrv.com/partsandservice/manuals/1983_SOUTHWIND.pdf Rich.

Neilraymond, Looked up a picture of the doghouse used in your model year. Thinking the screws you are looking for are to the front, close the the firewall. likely 2 of them, one one each corner of the lower corners. Then the cover might rotate up with a hinge under the rear edge of the cover. Rich.

Thanks Ray for passing along that little Gem !!! Rich.

Allegiance40x, Check the ride height on the the front right. The Camber angle might be off, set to positive. Tow out ? is a static alignment made to minimize tire scrub and rolling resistance, that develop when a vehicle is cornering. Rich.

F301359! From the information you posted, Check the coach builders fuse(s) in the chassis fuse box. Sounds like you have blown a 20 amp fuse the chassis builder installs so the items you mention power up. You did not post the make of your chassis, but it is often mounted firewall just above the engine. I'm thinking that the 12 volt accessories outlet(s) (They look like cigarette lighter sockets) also do not have power ! Rich.

ObedB, LoLo Pass is interesting, but I do not think I could say a lot of fun! You mentioned a load of potatoes in your post and it brought back a memory. We where fallowing a rig, just outside of Salt lake City on a state Rt. that connects to I-80. Just before the point you get on there was a red light, the driver started braking; as he applied the brakes the trailer tandem slid back to the stop plates. The noise was really hard to describe, but the wheels stayed under the trailer. The shotgun dove out of the cab faster then a person his size should be able to and the driver was not far behind. Talking to then at the pull off just beyond the entrance ramp to access the issue, they had just pull out of the terminal and someone forgot to set the locking pins and no jacks that could raise the trailer. They had to return to the yard. Not the way to start a run to the windy city. Rich.

CarlAda, The coaches we have owned over the years have all had some engine issues. The engines and drive trains all need general maintenance. Then there are issues that require specific repairs to regain original performance. The items vary between gas, diesel or even CNG because of the different fuel delivery system the fuels require. Gas engines rarely use turbo chargers, where both diesel or CNG engines they are common. So an exhaust leak, waste gate or VGT system can have a profound affect on the coach's performance when something in the loop fails and it can be as simple as a failed fuel line to a complete failure of the turbo spool. You will find owners that love there Cat, Cummins, Detroit, Ford, GM or Mercedes engines and you can also find owners that have had a bad experience with more then one engine manufacture. I have had my share of valves failing, blown gaskets, failed fuel pumps, water pumps and the list goes on and on. I have a saying, that they never fail when parked, but that is also a problem; if things set for to long with out a good 20 to 30 mile run now and then. One needs to decide how many horses to have in the barn and how much they want to pay for the Oats(in this case how many gal. of fuel). A friend had his large coach re-powered. Meaning he changed the engine(Complete Engine Failure) and everything directly connected to the engine replaced. The transmission and rear differential where left OEM and set up to work with the Engine. Last time I contacted him, the coach was getting around 20+mpg running up the Grape Vine>@70mph and he is not the type that is full of BS. But there is always a cost factor !!!! Rich.

gaylemarlowe, What is the make,model and year of your coach? Starting around the early to mid 2000's the coach builders started adding a relay / fuse box for the 7 pin connector. With a little more information the group might be able to pass on some better information regarding the brake light issue. Rich.

Chuck, I have used Pennzoil and Rotella 15W-40 Diesel oil for years in both the coach diesel and the Onan generator with no issues. I also used Pennzoil 10W-30 in my Onan Gas generators for over 15 years. Rich.

ObedB. I have used a number of Lucas products over the years. Use there injector cleaner in every second fill up of the Coach and every 6 months in the cars and truck. Use there gear oil in all the differentials and the wet bearings on the coach when a change out is needed. The last trip to the west coast this summer I used Stanadyne Diesel fuel additive(Lubricity Formula). Just to see if I there was any difference in overall performance. There was nothing that stud out ! I think that using additives for the diesel fuel is not needed on every fill up when using a brand name fuel, refineries and there blends do need to meet a specific blending standard as far as I know to meet EPA requirements. That still leaves you with different blends, Ultra Low Sulfur, B5 to B20 and the door open regarding lubricity and jelling points. Rich.

edjfeb, Welcome to the FMCA forum! There are numbers molded into the lenses that you can use when looking for replacements . So, if your lenses are missing, list the make and model of your 1999 diesel pusher and the members of the forum that own the same make and model year might be able to supply you information on the lenses you need. Rich.

Carl, From the information you posted, it sure sounds like the ATS. The fact that you can get power when using the generator and then the shore power works as soon as you stop the generator leads me to suspect the shore power contacts of the ATS have a carbon build up. This can happen when high current items are not turned off before the coach is connected to the shore power. The carbon build up on the contacts isolate the circuit until you cycle it by using the generator. The reverse happens when high current items are left on and one starts and stops the generator. So, my vote goes to damaged contacts. Rich.

Neilraymond, Welcome to the FMCA Forum! Your coach has a 454 Engine most have 2 screws to remove so the top portion can be removed. They have large heads between the size of a nickle and a quarter and often hide under the carpet nap. Using a magnet to find then is very helpful. Removing the lower section is done by removing the screws anchoring this portion to the coach floor. You did not mention what maintenance is needed so let the group know. No need to remove something that you do not need to ! Rich.

Jp, Welcome to the FMCA forum! From your description, it sounds like a thermal issue. Thinking that there is a component that is being affected by the extra current required when all 3 of the LEDs are turned on, or there is what is called a cold solder connection somewhere in the control circuit. You might want to see if you can get it exchanged by the outlet or supplier where you bought the replacement light. Rich.

Have you tried to contact Thor Motorcoach @ 877-855-2867? This might help http://thormotorcoach.com/fourwinds-rv.php http://hurricane-rv.com/ https://www.cruiseamerica.com/buy/buyers_resources/manuals/2011_Thor_Owners_Manual.pdf http://www.thorforums.com/forums/f17/resources-thor-motor-coach-motorhomes-22.html Rich.

Rick, The items that need to be isolated that I know of are the Transmission and Engine ECM's on a number of chassis. A call to Monaco would be the best way to get a complete list. Rich.

cmarq. Never had a Power Gear motor rebuilt, but have been able to get the hydraulic drive motors rebuilt. The real question is, do you have a motor shop in your area or even a good starter repair shop that might be willing to try! Just need some one that can give it a good cleaning, clean the armature, some new bushes and willing to work on it. Rich.