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Everything posted by dickandlois
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Adriang305. Welcome ! This is a link to the Brochure for the coach, your coach is built on a Ford Chassis with the V10. http://www.coltonrv.com/Portals/1/Manufacturer/Thor/2003-Thor-Four-Winds-Infinity-Brochure.pdf They are kind of handy to have on file. The file mentions that the model in question has a generator, but no size is mentioned. The 2 optional units mentioned are a 5.5 KW and a 7KW. Thinking your coach mighe be equipped with a 4.5 KW. Chances are that it is wired with a 30 Amp electrical and not a 50 amp. service. The one thing that is not mentioned is an inverter or a charger / inverter. So do you have an owners manual and might it have some information regarding a inverter and or a charger? From the picture you posted it sure had something in the area ! So the number of batteries, there size and voltage that Brett mentioned are important. Rich.
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Dash Cam - Do You Have One, Would You Purchase One
dickandlois replied to JakeR's topic in Electronics
Hi Tom, This weighted dash mount might work for you. It works for small cameras. There is a hock that is attached to the dash, but you might find away to make it work. http://www.arkon.com/Camera%20Mounts/camera-dashboard--mount.html Rich.- 24 replies
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Radiographer, Thanks for the update! From your description, it sound like the culprit was the Pac Brake. The fact that your turbo linkage worked as it should when you applied air pressure to the actuator, takes it out of the equation for now! Rich.
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2004 F-53 19.5" x 6.75" 8 Lug Wheel Search
dickandlois replied to olddoggie's topic in Type A motorhomes
Don, Look at this information. http://www.hillerford.com/resource_library/2002/2002trucks/2002f350-450-550sd/2002f3-4-5sdtires&wheels.htm Now, if I'm looking at the information correctly - the front and rear rims are different regarding the hub 8 lug spacing. Rich. -
George, Welcome to the FMCA Forum ! How long do you planing to take? Do you have a Towd ? There are a number of sights to see on the way out to California and on the way back. Mount Rushmore at night is special. Yellowstone, you should plan on spending at least 2 or 3 days. http://www.cornpalace.org/ Do you have any thoughts on what Rt. or Rt's you are thinking of taking? The members will offer all kinds of locations and sights to see. Rich.
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Not All Challenging Roads Are Out West
dickandlois replied to dickandlois's topic in General Discussion
Ray, I have Over The Road Atlas and have not seen it mentioned! I do have hard copies of the Mountain Directory East and West though, but it is one Rt. that I did not notice in my older copy. It might be time to upgrade. This is a link find more information about the Directory. http://www.mountaindirectory.com/cb/index.html?hop=roundpub02 Rich. -
I was looking around the web and found this description of a Rt. in Eastern Pennsylvania. I have not tried to drive this Rt. with the coach and I think I will pass even trying. From the Pennsylvania East section of the Mountain Directory East: Pennsylvania highway 125 (between Shamokin and Good Spring, PA.) Large vehicles may want to avoid this 18 mile section of road. It crosses four mountains and includes numerous 15 mph hairpin turns and many more 20 and 25 mph curves. Regardless of your direction of travel you will have to climb and descend some very steep hills. Much of the grade is 7 to 9% but there are numerous sections that must be 12% or more, some lasting almost a mile. Brake shoes don't have enough time to cool much between descents. Rich.
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From the album: Keeping the Alternator cool
The location was chosen because it was forward of all the high engine temperature points. This allows ambient air to be directed directly to the rear of the alternator, unaffected or heated by the Exhaust Manifold, Turbo air feed to the CAC and counters some of the heat from the Radiator hose and muffler that are also in the same area. The air pickup is just above the air supply duct for the Engine and Turbo. This is just behind the rear wheels, high enough to be out of the main water spray and dust generated by the wheel to road contact. -
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From the album: Keeping the Alternator cool
Path I used to run the duct. Different routing may be needed depending on obstructions and the space available. This is working for me and extended the life of the current Alternator. 6 of them have fail over the time we have owned the coach. Like 1 every 2 years and some years we have traveled more or less then others. How much longer ? I will add that information as time passes. -
From the album: Keeping the Alternator cool
This is a picture of the output end of the duct work that I installed to direct cool air into the Alternator area. If you look at my file titled alternator issues, you can find information on alternator circuit and temperature issues I have been dealing with at this link. http://community.fmca.com/topic/3930-engine-alternator-issues/ After many up grades and alternator change outs. it has become apparent that the only way to resolve the issue of failing alternators was to direct outside air directly to the alternator area. -
If I recall correctly I found the fuse to the accessories in the power box in a bay above the LP Tank and also in the fuse box in front of the engine. Question, are you saying that there a two fuses for the accessories? If that is the case, you only had one fuse that failed? of the 2? The DRL's Daytime Running lights are powered from another fuse, the 10 amp fuse only feeds the power relay. Now on most units the DRL's are only on when the unit is in gear! The same goes for the Step control circuit,TV lock out while moving and The HWH leveling circuit power. All these items have other main power fuses feeding there respective loads. You did not mention if your accessory outlets where still working and they often have a 20 amp fuse in the chassis fuse box, supplied by the chassis builder. I do not think it is necessary to increase the size of the failed fuse at this time. Should you have further issue with this fuse. A call to the coach builder and the chassis builder might be in order. Keep us posted. Rich.
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When the exhaust manifold failed on the coach we lost all the boost. So being a very adventures sole, I decided to do the work myself. Not for the faint of heart !! Tight area to work and one needs tools that most Do it your self owners do not have. Rusted parts and even with the large torch set, they played hard to remove. Got all the bolts out but one that proved to be very challenging. The only way to get the Turbo loose was to remove it with the manifold after removing all the air intake, and output lines from the turbo along with the exhaust brake and the oil lines. Installed all the manifold parts, a new manifold, gaskets and bolts. Then proceeded to remove the turbo from the old manifold. This required cutting it free, very carefully. Because the spool assembly was well with in specks. An a new turbo is a little costly. ouch !!! Good thing is I did find that parts to completely rebuild it where out there, but I'm thinking that if it lasts as long; I'm not going to be quit as eager to try it a second time. LOL Replaced the Waste gate control parts and then set the per-load pressure to engine specifications. Yes it took a number of hrs and a little over $1200.00 Link to video on how the Waste-gate and VGT Turbos work. Second link to Turbo Operation information. http://www.dieselclass.com/Engine%20Files/VGT%20Turbochargers%209-05.pdf Road Test today proved rewarding. The thing actually worked, with a nice boost curve that had been an issue for the last 2 years. Nice to have good power again !!! Rich. Note, The key trick is to use reduced air pressure for the impact wrench and a reasonable amount heat. I did not want to get into removing the head. The number one bolt next to the turbo flange was the only one that had rusted enough to brake ! It was accessible, but required the old fire and ice trick and some penetrating oil. That finely did the trick. Chased out threads and all was good.
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f301359, Thanks for your reply! Interesting that the fuse you found was only a 10 amp! Most of the information I have mentions the Chassis builders fuse is 20 amp. The fact that you where reading voltage on both ends of the fuse, even when it was defective; kind of tells me that you where might be using a digital meter. They do not load the circuits like the older meters. This is a time when a test a light, might have found the problem on the first try. The technical term for this issue when using a digital meter is Capacitive cupping. Happens when you have 2 possible 12 volt sources. The second source in your case is the entry step, that is also powered from the coach 12 volts when the engine is not running. When you get time, could you post the circuit and or fuse used for the Accessory output(s). Think there is a small change in the chassis builders wiring on your model chassis. Thanks ! Rich.
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Radiographer, Look up the preload pressure for your turbo !!! If the preload is, say 25lbs. That is the point where the waste gate should start to open. To much boost and you can damage the engine. Setting the pre-load properly is critical !!!!! Freeing up the pivot pins and linkage should help and you did mention that it was moving much easier. The pre load on my turbo is 29.9lbs. I set it with a low pressure air regulator in the line so it was easier to read the proper pressure. You set the point with the threaded coupler so it just slides over the waste gate actuator pin at the required pressure. Being 29.9 in my case, that keeps the gate closed until it opens at 29.9 psi. The VGT turbos work a little different and are controlled by the ECM. This change was made to meet the newer EPA standards. Rich
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Radiographer! Welcome to the Forum! The issue Brett referred to is not uncommon and I just finished repairing my exhaust system and took some pictures of exhaust brake assemble. So I took the time to post them in the photo gallery. http://community.fmca.com/gallery/album/466-exhaust-brake-system/ Rich.
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From the album: Exhaust Brake system
The exhaust break damper pivots and linkage are prone to rust build up an ware over time. So I apply some high temp lubrication to all the areas that need to be free moving. I have had good luck with Super Lub. A product like it is also available from Cummings. Note! The turbo waste gate actuator assembly is pron to the same problem, this is an item to have checked at your engine service center when you have work done. The linkage in many cases almost impossible to access, unless one is very nimble ! -
From the album: Exhaust Brake system
The assembly is held in place by 2 special clamps that tend to get rusty, this can make removing them difficult. So socking them with a good penetrating oil ahead of time is advised. When installing them the torque levels for the clamps is 71in.lbs. or 5.9ft.lbs -
From the album: Exhaust Brake system
The exhaust brake assembly is generally connected directly to the exhaust output side of the turbocharger. -
Denise, Welcome to the FMCA Forum !! I found a link to the Owners Manual for a 1983 Southwind Coach, it that is the model you have. There is no mention of a leveling system in the manual. So if you could attach some pictures of your coach and the leveling system, the group might be able to fill in some of the gaps. Link. http://fleetwoodrv.com/partsandservice/manuals/1983_SOUTHWIND.pdf Rich.
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Neilraymond, Looked up a picture of the doghouse used in your model year. Thinking the screws you are looking for are to the front, close the the firewall. likely 2 of them, one one each corner of the lower corners. Then the cover might rotate up with a hinge under the rear edge of the cover. Rich.
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Thanks Ray for passing along that little Gem !!! Rich.
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F301359! From the information you posted, Check the coach builders fuse(s) in the chassis fuse box. Sounds like you have blown a 20 amp fuse the chassis builder installs so the items you mention power up. You did not post the make of your chassis, but it is often mounted firewall just above the engine. I'm thinking that the 12 volt accessories outlet(s) (They look like cigarette lighter sockets) also do not have power ! Rich.
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ObedB, LoLo Pass is interesting, but I do not think I could say a lot of fun! You mentioned a load of potatoes in your post and it brought back a memory. We where fallowing a rig, just outside of Salt lake City on a state Rt. that connects to I-80. Just before the point you get on there was a red light, the driver started braking; as he applied the brakes the trailer tandem slid back to the stop plates. The noise was really hard to describe, but the wheels stayed under the trailer. The shotgun dove out of the cab faster then a person his size should be able to and the driver was not far behind. Talking to then at the pull off just beyond the entrance ramp to access the issue, they had just pull out of the terminal and someone forgot to set the locking pins and no jacks that could raise the trailer. They had to return to the yard. Not the way to start a run to the windy city. Rich.