dickandlois

To little spark could point to a failed ignition coil or just a bad connection. The high voltage required for a good spark will knock one on the ground. One can test them by connecting a positive voltage to one of the coil studs clamp the coil,( Do Not advise holding it in your hand) use the center spark plug wire to cause a spark to ground, but insulate your self from the plug wire. Plastic handled tool taped to the ignition wire. Then have a helper tap the wire connected to the second terminal and you should get a very good sized ark between the plug wire and ground. WORK VERY Carefully, stand on dry ground with a good pair of rubber soled shoe's. This is not a game - it is an unforgettable experience if you are not well isolated ! Tried that when I was 12 years old. One was enough for me. Rich.

This link shows the ignition system for a 1976 Dodge 440 with an ECM style system. Animated sequence and part layout https://www.google.com/search?q=1976+Dodge+440+ignition+coil&tbm=isch&ved=2ahUKEwjC1Oq-vrvoAhVIHd8KHXXJAIUQ2-cCegQIABAA&oq=1976+Dodge+440+ignition+coil&gs_lcp=CgNpbWcQA1DQuAFY0cgBYOPjAWgAcAB4AIABaIgBggOSAQMyLjKYAQCgAQGqAQtnd3Mtd2l6LWltZw&sclient=img&ei=R2F-XoKVFMi6_Ab1koOoCA&rlz=1C1VFKB_enUS711US716#imgrc=fWwTgKee99w_rM Rich.

A review of the issue and when it started. Filled up with fuel -was working fine. Turned a corner and the engine died. Then run for a short time. Mentioned having a spark. Fuel in the system? No answer as to if starting fluid sprayed into the carburetor. Will case the engine to fire . One does not need much - to much and ii can be a fire hazard. This is a case of a little goes a long ways. Rich.

Andy, Can not remember where is was located, but this link should give you an idea of what you are looking for. https://www.autozone.com/batteries-starting-and-charging/ballast-resistor/dodge/b300 However, the resister is in the ignition system and Andy said he has a spark' Rich.

Brett, Looks like a Dodge 440 around 1976. cranks over fuel pressure? Fuel filter, Carburetor Float issues. What happens when some starter fluid is added? May have some dirt or rust in the tank. Looks like this stile carburetor. https://guaranteedcarburetors.com/X4-254_p_219.html?gclid=Cj0KCQjwyPbzBRDsARIsAFh15JZJKdHOpVuSQfwno_954WcSYXGfeXBM4mGvyfuKrl6arcrNzUZwH5waAoENEALw_wcB Also, allot of rubber deterioration. This information might still be available. If you haven't found the manual(s)that you are looking for, you might try www.autobooksbishko.com. These folks specialize in 1970s vintage manuals for Dodge motorhomes. If what you really want is intended to be used for repairing or maintaining the automotive portion of the RV, you need to ask them for a chassis manual. I have a 32' 1979 Holiday Rambler Imperial 5000 that is on a Dodge M-600 chassis. Power is supplied by the 440-3 engine with the gearing provided by the A-727 Loadflite automatic transmission. I purchased a chassis manual from them (about $60.00) and it is worth every penny I spent. The wiring diagrams alone are worth the price if you have to get into the automotive wiring. The one thing I haven't found anywhere, is a wiring diagram for the coach itself. Bishko's web-site has been redone, but it used to indicate that they also had some "Owner Manuals" that would possibly cover some of the third party components installed in the interior. If you would rather talk to someone instead of going to the web-site, the number is 1-800-544-3312. Rich.

Welcome to the FMCA Forum! Andy, You offered the make and year of your coach could you post the chassis information the coach is built on? Rich.

Regarding the Scoring. Was it caused by a ring failure and could one have it honed and new parts in the hole? So few miles, the bore wear should be minimal. I'm thinking Brett might say something Ain't right! Rich.

The 5.9 engine is one tough engine. It is not a sleeved engine . So Brett's thought is valid from my point of view. Not knowing the maintenance history make this a tough call. Near 120,000 miles on our 5.9 and still running strong.

Joe, 2 Key-stoners on the same frequency> LOL Rich.

Are you referring to the spring that acts as a ground between the steering wheel and the steering column ? Rich.

Kind of stuck with the Kubota engines for now. The change appears to have been made to meat the EPA requirements. Kubota is a revers injection engine and LOVES to eat glow plugs! Where did that little tid- bit come from? Rich.

DM, The setup for the Denso is the same for most dash AD drains. Mine has never had a hose connected to the drain. It is allowed to drain the condensed water at the hole in the box. Not a real big hole and the blower motor is mounted inside the coach, as is the evaporator coil. Hole is like 3/16 in. The only reason for the hole is the allow the water a location to escape. The opening for the heat or AC is like 4 in. by 3 in. Way bigger then that little hole. If you look under cars, trucks or motor-homes, when the AC is running - there is always a wet spot under the passenger side for the same reason Rich.

Thanks for the information. The original part number for the starter solenoid 191- 2216, but it looks like that has been superseded by 226-4257. You might be able to take the OEM unit to NAPA and see if they could match it up Kubota Starter number is 191-2229, but they do not brake down the solenoid number. The 2 look to be interchangeable. Your genset is a Onan, but built with a Kubota engine. Looking into what and how the 2 got related could prove interesting. They want one to replace the starter not rebuild them. Rich.

David, Have you replaced the fuel filer yet? Sea foam will clean the varnish residue up along with the float needle and seat, but if the is dirt in the carburetor bowel from rust. Small peaces of rust can keep the float needle valve from closing. This would make starting the engine difficult (flooding the engine) One the engine heats up the hotter fuel will vaporize easier and the engine would run fine with some excess fuel. Starting the engine after ti cools, the same issue will happen, dirt and rust inside the carburetor will remain until it is cleaned or replaced. Cutting open the fuel filter and looking at what was taped inside could offer a clue to what part of the fuel supply is unwanted material, rust, rubber, dirt are the common items. You mentioned changing the fuel filter. Has it been replaced yet? I can not see any reason yet to consider electrical issues. Once it starts up and runs long enough to get hot; things tend to work fine. Rich.

Glad to hear the Generator started. Also, Thanks for the information about the Kubota engine. Now there is something this old guy can dig into to see where it goes. The math works out to just a little over 10,000 KW of electrical power, but the generator connected to it might be for the standard 7.5 system. Maybe Onan just ran short of engines and substituted a Kubota . A number of the Kubota powered generators are wired for 220 volts. You might have noticed some differences regarding the oil fill, dipstick and filter location? Could you post the Serial number of your unit? Why it works so well question. Sure sounds like the solenoid on the new starter works much better, through in force is much higher and there is much more current passing through the solenoid contacts, increasing the starter torque. You did find a loose ground connection and that could have degraded the winding in the solenoid. Found the engine specs. Plenty of HP, but it 's specification sheet mentions Power output at 3600 RPM. That means Onan set it up to run at 1800 RPM. To match the wiring commingle found in most coaches with a standard wiring setup for a single phase split winding. This lowers the HP, but gains fuel economy and would have an output of 7500 KW. If the original poster supplies the serial number information, there might be more information to post. Rich.

Check the ground wire between the seat and the chassis. Also measure the DC voltage at the seat control panel switch is present. Need to find a good chassis ground point if it does not read any voltage, then it is the supply voltage that is missing (bad fuse is the next item to check) Let the Forum know what you find or do not find. Rich.

This might offer an option. Worked in the communication area for years, but never used this option to communicate, it might prove interesting and an option to Ham Radio operators also. This Device Can Send Messages Without Cell Service. https://www.popularmechanics.com/promotions/a20777855/the-mesh/?src=syn&dom=yah&mag=pop Rich.

The information you offered clears up how you genset is installed. Yes from your info. the generator removal requires a fork lift or a pallet jack . in that case there is a section of the front cowl that needs to be removed so the unit will clear, plus a few other items. I do feel for you working under the coach is a very tight space. Glad you are home. Offers more options. I might be able to find a part number for the starter solenoid , but if it does not work properly on the bench and you are planing on replacing the starter. Open the new one and run the same test you ran on the OEM unit. Should they both react the same, then you need to run the jump test used on the bench when the new starter is installed, to see if the new one engages. Should the starter not in gauge, Then the group need to think of other options. If it does spin the engine. Reconnect the OEM power wire to the solenoid. Plug the supply side fuel line and see if the starter spins up. It should, but if not then one needs to consider a wiring issue between the control board and the starter or the control board comes into play ! I would strongly suggest placing 12,000 pound jack stands under each frame rail while working under the coach !!! Air bags with no air in them. Any damage to the air supply lines or bags can cause a quick loose of air. Should one decide to remove the generator, you might need to move them to under the axle, so the forklift or pallet jack has some extra room, Width wise, the trade off is height. The QD 7500 series generators weigh in at close to 750 lbs. The jack stands need to be on wood blocks or concrete to keep them from sinking into the ground. As you may have found out, you need to remove the fuel filter to get access to the starter and you will get fuel from the pump running out of the fuel system. Can get messy ! While on the fuel filter issue, how long has it been sense it was replaced? Good Luck at your appointment. Seeing them more often these day also ! Rich. STARTER SOLENOID REPLACEMENT WARNING This test involves high electrical currents, strong arcing and moving parts that can cause severe personal injury. Do not conduct this test near fuel tanks or when flammable vapors are present. Wear safety glasses. Keep fingers away from the pinion gear. The starter solenoid is separately replaceable. To determine whether the problem is in the solenoid or in the motor: 1. Secure the motor assembly in a vice after it has been removed from the genset. 2. Using a heavy jumper cable, because of the large currents involved, connect the motor terminal on the solenoid (the one closest to the motor) to the positive (+) terminal on a 12 volt battery. 3. Using a heavy cable from the negative (–) terminal on the battery, briefly touch the mounting flange on the motor. • If the motor does not spin up quickly and smoothly, replace the motor/solenoid assembly. • If the motor does spin up quickly and smoothly, the motor is probably okay: replace the solenoid. The solenoid is removable by disconnecting the motor lead from the solenoid terminal and removing the two solenoid mounting nuts. When installing a new solenoid, make sure the solenoid plunger engages the shift fork.

Herman, Your Onan is a totally different animal. Your unit uses a Kubota engine. The engine has a set of gears between the starter and the flywheel teeth. The gear setup act as a torque multiplier. The OP,s unit is a 7500 KW unit, yours is a 12.5 KW . your unit puts out 5 KW more the the 7500 unit. The air intake , cooling system, oil filter setup are all different. To my thinking, the exhaust system is not setup right> The exhaust pipe should end out side the footprint of the coach about 2 to 3 inches minimum. The exhaust fums can buildup quicker under the coach. ANY Opening under the driver or passenger areas could easily allow the exhaust fums into the living space. NOT GOOD Herman !!!!! Sure hope the exhaust pipe is much longer then what shows up in the picture. Rich. The OEM Part number for the Generator pictured is 191-2229

Brian, I installed the same Xantrex unit 3 years ago and it has been a good upgrade. The only difference is no combox. I try to keep things as simple as possible . The batteries where relativity new. I will add 4 new batteries with a higher AH ratting with the same footprint. When I do that I will increase the size of the DC supply fuse only because the load requirement will tend to increase over time, but maybe not the way technology is going. I have room and some thoughts about changing from 30 amp to 50 amp service,as the next upgrade. Regarding the inverter portion it transfers so fast and the power is clean enough to run a top of the line sewing machine, For the traveling quilter. I just fix things and she creates art. At a rally a few years ago the shore power dropped out and she was merrily sowing along. Did not know the power had dropped out. Rich.

Herman, Rich, since the OP has stated that the starter in "running " That fact was posted about a bench test! another post, Tightened it down on the gen connection,( Referring to a ground cable) couldn't see where braided cable from genset to ground was attached. Just knew that my problem was solved. Reinstalled starter ( I'm gettin pretty good at this by now) but same result. Starter spins but will not turn engine. I then attached a btry jumper cable from genset to vehicle frame with the same results. Spin but no start. This fact tells me there is not enough current to pull the solenoid pin backwards / inwards, this action pulls the bottom of the lever forward. This action in gauges the starter gear into the flywheel. spinning the engine. These facts, Where is the generator frame grounded to the coach chassis frame? Measure the resistance between the generator frame and the Chassis frame. Thought ! could one connect a jumper cable between the generator frame and a good on the chassis frame. Remove the positive 12 volt cable from the stud at the end of the solenoid. Connect a battery charger positive cable terminal to the stud the original positive cable was connected. ( keep the connection clear of any ground points) Then connect the ground cable from the charger to a good ground point. The starter should instantly react. pushing the starter gear forward (in gauging the starter gear with the flywheel gear ring) This action removes the delay for the glow plugs. If the ambient temperature is high, this helps / lowers the need for the preheat step. Rich.

Herman, The problem could be in the Solenoid. The OP is on the road and working with the tools at hand. That makes things more difficult along with finding the part required. I do not know if they are in a no travel situation and that does not help. Right now there are a number of new challenges for all of us. I have an appointment in Decatur IN. for some work the end of July. Will need to know from them and other states if we can actually drive at he time. Interesting for sure and adding a new member to the family, arriving in August. Planing is going to be interesting. Rich.

Think you have covered all the bases. Just the fact, of checking things and then needing a control board would not be good. From you reply, it sounds like you may have tested the starter by applying 12 volts directly to the starter solenoid / bendex and the starter does not get the required current to spin up the motor or in gauge the the solenoid. Real lucky in my area to have a fantastic starter and alternator rebuild shop. When one is on the road they can be hard to locate. Replacement under those condition most likely the best option. Keep us in the loop Rich.

Ray, If the glow plugs do not run the programmed heating cycle the control board will not allow the starter to engage. We do not know what the problem is yet. bad 25 amp fuse or control board? By powering the starter from a good 12 volt supply, bypassing the interlock ,the starter will spin when powered directly. That eliminates the starter from the equation. The starter has never spun up yet. there is no definable indication the starter solenoid has energized yet. There should be a load thud even if the starter does not spin up. It sure sounds like when the OP bench tested the system it activated the solenoid and things looked normal. And Generator starters do not fail very often. Rich.

F 375818, DO NOT OPEN the box the new part came in, until you read and run the test listed below Just realized I forgot to ask if the starter tries to engage as soon as you press the start switch? I do somethings so automatically when testing things I just totally forgot to ask. THE sound you hear might be the fuel pump starting, not the starter circuit powering up. You should get 12 volts at the main terminals. Connecting 12 volts directly to the starter solenoid , will spin up the starter; but the engine might not start when cold. You can use a battery charger to power the starter, connect the positive to the solenoid - Positive can not touch ground, then connect the ground to a good ground point. As soon as you make the ground connection, try not to jump it is a rather intimidating sound. A lot like when you are bench testing the unit in a bench vise. I need to ask, are you waiting for the glow plug, heat up cycle to complete? That takes longer in cold weather. Is the 25 amp fuse good. There is a delayed start on the Diesel engine when it is cold. Once the glow plugs warm up the control board will enable the starter to be energized. Rich.