dickandlois

Thanks Carl for the feedback ! Your information raises one question. How long and what was the load on the generator, when he got the 37 code to set? Second question --- How did he or you get the generator started? Was the generator cold when it started. The problem is starting to look like something has caused an imbalance between the winding's and it does not take much of a resistance change before the control board picks up on the issue. The thing I do not want you to run into is a winding problem after the control board is replaced, because they are on the pricey side and if a new module reads the some issue. Can one get there money back for the board. One would need to eat the labor charges. If one has the winding information and can locate each wire pair in the winding , one could use a TDR to test them. TDR stands for a Time Domain Reflectometer. They are not overly expensive, but more then I'm willing to spend at this point of my life. Need to be skilled at understanding the information displayed on the screen. Rich.

POSSIBLE CAUSES: Wire connections, generator windings, ignition system, drive belt slippage, generator drive system. 37 is a general fault code, 36 and 38 are listed in the owners manual. Wire connections --Check and see if they are loose ! Generator winding issues needs an authorized shop to test winding resistance, generator drive system. I have not worked on this model, but think it has an induction style pick up. No brushes? ignition error ? fuel supply filters maybe. Belt slippage-- the belt drives the water pump. How many Hrs. on the meter? Did the error come up under heavy load? Weak fuel pressure. fuel filter issue ? Generator powered with a Kubota engine. Rich.

SgtJoe, This is a link to one of the most popular charger / inverters in use for Mortorhomes. This manual covers a number of insulation options. To have on file. There are a few reasons the charger could be humming. Check the connections quality and for proper connections, much of that information is covered in the link below. The Drawings should match the method used in you coach. http://www.xantrex.com/documents/Inverter-Chargers/Freedom-458/Freedom458(445-0193-01-01_rev-2).pdf It is not real uncommon to have a cell or 2 require a more frequent addition of distilled water over time. Water evaporation is always greater in cold weather. Starting point for getting a good handle on there condition is to make sure all the connections and cables are clean and tight. Add water as needed, run a full charge cycle, Take a hydrometer reading of all the cell and make a chart of the readings. Depending on the age of the batteries, if they are more then 2 years old or have gone through a number of full discharge cycles. Run them through an equalizer cycle. Then read the voltage levels of each battery and a reading of the specific gravity again and see how the numbers compare to the first set. From this information you should have enough information to know what battery (s) are weak or bad . Manual Equalization-- Over a period of time, the cells in a flooded battery can develop uneven chemical states. This can result in a weak (undercharged) cell which, in turn, can reduce the overall capacity of the battery. To improve the life and performance of a non-sealed, flooded battery, the Freedom SW’s multistage charging cycle includes a manual equalize mode that can be used, if recommended by the battery manufacturer. Rich.

Andy! Think the coach builders Do not, or did not receive a torque level for the hose clamp(s)? The fact the builders are adding a section of hose, Are they using a lower quality hose or one that can be easily cut into as the heat increases in the hose and the material becomes softer ? Or they need to use a wider hose clamp to spread out the clamp pressure over a wider area? IE reducing hose quality or smaller clamps, saves a few cents; but creates an issue that cost them more to repair under the warranty period. Rich.

Good Job, as mentioned ! Sometime maybe you can send me a PM with a little more information on you back ground. Not familiar with all the different cab layouts. Sometimes a little info goes a long way. Rich.

You might want to contact Freightliner for PDF copy's of The chassis electrical wiring. Thy do not always offer the best information on what fuses go where in a simple drawing, but you can trace the circuits if needed and where they run. allot of spaghetti to most owners. Not knowing what your back ground is or skill areas.Having them on file might come in real handy while on the road sometime. You will need the last 7 letters and numbers for then to cross the files that match up to your chassis. Most of the fuse box's for the chassis wiring are mounted under the dash or in the last bay in the rear for the fuse and relays for the turn-signal, brake, and wiring that connect to the 7 pin connection for the toad you are towing. Fleetwood does all the house wiring ,plumbing and heating systems. Rich.

Tim, This is a link to AAA towing laws for each state. Your overall length should not be an issue, but some states do have some very clear requirements. Most would not apply, but not knowing how your towing setup is laid out. it might help. https://drivinglaws.aaa.com/tag/trailer-towing/ Rich.

There are 6 large fuses in a second fuse box in some cases. 5- 20 amp and 1-30 amp that powers the heater blower. 3 of the 20 amp fuse power the Coach builder circuits for the outlets you mentioned. Plus the power steps and the ignition circuit. Should your coach have a single fuse box? the fuses might be labeled Number 18 = brake lights. 20= Heater blower, 19= Horn / Dimmer relay, 22= ACC / could include an outlet and 21= ign , but if the engine starts, that would kind of eliminate this one. Best I can do with the information offered. and things do and can change for each model. One thing you can take to the bank is the cigar outlets are powered by 20 amp fuses Rich.

Joe, Welcome to the learning curve that comes with every model and make of RV' on the market. LOL Then many of us up date what we have just so we can start the learning curve all over again. Rich.

This information can very depending on a number of items. The PDF file offers some personal thoughts and information I hope will prove helpful to all who own or use Class A, C or B coaches or trucks used by fivers or T/T's About AC Refrigerant Requierments for a 40 ft coach.pdf

Make sure that the inverter is well grounded to the chassis. A slight difference between the neutral and ground resistance might be causing the hum. The unit was recently replaced and the primary ground wire is an easy one to miss. Rich.

Mike, are you located where it is cold? The issue I mentioned earlier is common on the Freightliner Chassis, Your coach is built on a Roadmaster Chassis. They are not the same ! I asked if you are located in a cold area, because you could have an air dryer issue if it has not been serviced for 2 to 3 years or more. When the dryers need service problems like you described can pop up. You need a good operating air system in order for the air brakes work properly and the ride height system operates before driving the coach. You mentioned having good air pressure. With the gauges reading erratically. How do you know what the air pressures are for sure? Rich. Mike, I was able to locate the Chassis manual for your model year Chassis. The information is well above most owners understanding, but a good chassis service shop should be able to perform the required work to get your system operating properly. You should be able to download a copy for reference. 2005_Signature__Chassis_Manual..pdf

Information that might help motor home owners find a baseline for the proper torque level specifications for different class chassis used for the different class sized units. Torque levels vary considerably by class and the size coach in a given class. This tends to cause a point of confusion. This is also an issue for Tow Trailers and 5th.wheel units. The best information always comes from chassis builders not the tire shops! Safe travels to all Rich. Some Wheel lug torque levels for RV Wheels.pdf

The attachment above was my original reply The real issue is kind of vanilla. The drive for the rams is attached to the frame of the coaches,ether between the axles and frames or the frames that extend a ram down towards the ground. This action raises the coach UP WARD, from a low point to level the structure relevant to the ground. This enables one to level the coach or any structure without digging holes in the ground to lower the high point. I do not think the park owners would let anyone just dig holes in the pads provided to level every model or size coach that arrives for a period of time so the vehicle was level. The Physics is for every action there is an equal reaction. Happy trails to all. Rich.

Birds do some dumb things or just fail to pay attention of there surroundings at times. One very large ravine. committed suicide on The Yellow head Rt 16 in BC, Canada back a number of years ago. So glad I had installed a front crash bar before we left home. The bird hit so hard it sprung the top drivers corner back into the front fiberglass cowling that cracked the fiberglass. It was installed to prevent 4 legged critters from causing damage , not a 10 to 15 lb. dive bomber. Much higher up and the bird would have been in my lap! Rich.

Chuck, Brett's Thoughts work real well to re leave the long-chain hydrocarbons from the supply side of the LP source. The "T" trap is a common solution as it lets the oil drop out of the vapor line. A common problem with LP powered backup generators for a stick and brick location when there is no NG source to connect to. Rich.

I'm thinking of getting 2 output ports so I have a port for the pressure sensor. When the air pressure drops below around 50 psi an buzzer should sound! Once the air drops below 40 /45 psi the park brake's will lock on AND you will STOP!!! Mike, when the park brake is applied all the air is released from the spring loaded portion of the rear brake cylinder. The spring then keeps the brakes applied until the required air pressure is in the cylinders to release the park brake. ALWAYS block the wheels when working on the park or roiling brake lines. Rich. This link might help understand the difference and how the 2 air systems work. RV's and big trucks are very similar in many ways. https://www.google.com/search?rlz=1C1VFKB_enUS711US716&sxsrf=ACYBGNQc6d2MOkMSXOZ1PWnuk0SBJkoRag%3A1579115253521&ei=9WIfXsi3H9jKtQbb16XQBA&q=difference+between+primary+and+secondary+air+brake+air+lines&oq=difference+between+primary+and+secondary+air+brake+air+lines&gs_l=psy-ab.3..33i299.9639.22011..25704...0.2..0.155.1415.0j11......0....1..gws-wiz.......0i71j35i39j0i22i30j33i22i29i30j33i160.GHCAxTe1xfg&ved=0ahUKEwiIhvvdpobnAhVYZc0KHdtrCUoQ4dUDCAs&uact=5

Bob's response. it had a heavy duty flasher & when he puts new one in it just buzz's . That indicates a low current issue. The flasher is a thermally activated style device. that uses a bi mettle strip to open and close the flasher switch inside the unit that plugs into a socket on or near the fuse box for both the 4 way and turn signal wiring. What is the voltage reading between the plus 12 volts and a known good ground? it is not hooked up to toad but he did put a new 7 pin connector on. Forward the wiring colors used at the seven different pins of the towed or trailer wiring. Each pin of the 7 pin connector supplies a ground, 12 volts, 4 way flasher signal or turn signal signal plus 12 volts for the marker lights. There are open pin(s) in some cases Do the marker lights work? ARE they Dimly lit or bright? Could you attach some pictures of the areas around the lights in question? What lights do work? A fast flash or a buzz indicate different issues. Has something been changed other then the flasher unit? Rich

A Few questions. Are the bulbs incandescent / Filament style or LED ? Same speed on Left and Right turn active? Do you have the same speed issue when using 4 ways? any speed change when a trailer or tow-car is attached? Most flasher speed issues are caused by ban grounds at the socket point, bad or corroded contacts or failed flasher units. The most common mechanical flasher is a number 552. One can measure each marker light and flasher light resistance to ground, they should be very close in resistance. Rich.

Bob,Welcome to the FMCA forum! Your coach is built on a Workhorse chassis ! You might try this link to find one close to each area you stop. There are a number of delivery and RV's built on there chassis's along with Ford. The fact that your coach has a Vortec8100 engine offers a number of GMC and Chevrolet service centers as options, because many of there products use the same style driver trains. info@workhorseservice.com Rich.

As mentioned above Good job>Hope we did not muddy the water to much! Good to know you are back on the road.. Rich.

With that information It is possible there is a 10 amp fuse located in the VIM(Vehicle interface module) Most of the wiring in this module is for relay circuits used to get the different control modules cross connected properly .Could be the point where the supply voltage is interrupted. Not much information on this fuse location out on the network. Hope this clears the missing Allison power. Rich.

Thanks Joe! Miss that information somehow. Time to check out the Allison Manuals on file. Rich

Gunnyjeep. Welcome to the forum. Thanks for your service! Could you post the Make, Model and year of the coach also include the model of the transmission. If everything was wired the same it would be to simple . Like flight line avionics nothing stands still . LOL There are some highly skilled members on this Forum. Maybe if you offer the information requested we can get everybody on the same page Rich.

Factor, Welcome to the Forum! What is the Model year of the Coach? What is the voltage reading of the house batteries? And how old are they. Rich.