dickandlois

Hi Dave, welcome to FMCA, The two top items we consider are the floor plan and how you think they will work for you. Second is what kind of camping you like. Private campgrounds or rustic camping, like state and federal campgrounds where one can run into length restrictions. The next one for me is the CCC, Cargo Carrying Capacity. Then the condition and year, not so much the manufacture. Although we do have some coach manufactures that we tend to like over others. Some just tend to fit our needs better. The rest of the requirements go from there, we have kind of built a mental list over the years. You might just want to set down and make up one for your family's top requirements down to the lowest requirement. Remember this is your home away from home so everything is on the table. Even fuel capacity, water, gray and black water tank sizes, fresh water if you do some rustic dry camping and the list goes on !!! Hope these thoughts help. Rich.

Jby, Welcome to FMCA, This is a link to a Copy of the owners manual for your unit if you need one. http://www.roadtrek.com/_Uploads/manuals/Roadtrek_Owners_Manual_1997_All_Models.PDF This information from page 20 of the manual. Check the Cargo Carrying Capacity, See the information attached to the driver door post, inside of the Lower Galley Door. Have you checked the Weight of the coach with the load you have? Checking all four corners is the best way, but front and read weights would be better then the full weight to get an idea of your weight distribution Tire pressure is also a factor and the condition of the shock absorbers. Rich.

Ken , I'm still looking, if there is any numbers stamped into the rims you might try to call Alcoa. Not knowing the tire size or any other information. You might try this link to get a lead. The center caps where most likely supplied with the rims. http://www.alcoa.com/alcoawheels/north_america/en/wheels.asp?q=h&cat=1723&class=926&system=&size=19.5+x+6.00&circle= Rich.

Hi Martin, Welcome to FMCA. Right after the parts where changed did both air bags inflate? The air supply lines for the air bags is only a 1/4in. in size and is not a high volume line. The next question is do your air gauges read normally? Thinking your Red gauge would be running on the low side if you have some kind of leak. Freightliner uses one ride height control to control both rear airbags. So if one is inflating there is a plumbing issue or a hole in the new airbag and that is unlikely. Martin, a little slow this AM. I see that you did not change the air bag as I reread your post, so it could have a hole. They dry out and start to crack around the bags at the fold point as they age. Not something most owners want to tackle. Rich.

Monacomadness, Welcome to FMCA. Sounds like everything has been replaced. So what it sounds like, is a wiring issue as you can get the unit to work if the sensor connection(s) are disconnected. To me that would mean the sensor circuit is reading or sensing something other then the fluid level(s). Check all the wires running between the tank sensors and the control board for chaffed wires contacting metal between the tank and the board. You might be able to see if someone knows what the resistance reading(s) should be for the sensors. Measure the reading you get at the connector terminal for all of them. Also, check for proper grounds in the circuits, one loose or corroded connection can do you in. You did post that it went from green, then to yellow and then to red with no liquid or very little in the tank. Keep thinking Ground, Ground and Ground. The control board is reading, or I should say sensing a voltage level that is there only because of the lack of a good ground. So many times the shops just replace parts until the problem goes away and never know what the real issue was. Good luck and keep us posted. Rich.

Hi Mike, Welcome to FMCA. Good point Dwight, I wondered what the OEM bulb was also. Is it just one side or both headlight assemblies that are a problem? Mike, an increase in current due to wire gauge size voltage drop could be an issue. By any chance have you had the headlights on and felt the wires running to them to see if they might be running hot or unusually warm. There are a number of different H13 9008 series bulbs that have a wattage range from 50 to 65 watts and the silver star ultra runs at almost 70 watts. From the information I have found. Said another way, Resistance in a electrical circuit causes heat, so wire gauge and connection quality are critical to proper circuit operation. Mike as an after thought, check and make sure that the headlight circuits have good ground connections !!! Rich.

Hi Steve and Diana, Welcome to FMCA. Interesting idea ! You mentioned a 10 to 12 inch size hole, so do you have information on the washout system you are considering that you could post some additional information on that the Group could look at ? Rich.

Hi Ken, well these look close, if the size is correct. You might need to change all 4 of them. Look at page 4 in the catalog. http://www.realwheels.com/catalog/NewRWCatalog.pdf Rich.

Hi Ken, Welcome to FMCA. Looks like they are Classic Moon or Baby Moon hubcaps. Look like they where cut down or modified to fit the rim centers. You can Google Classic Hubcaps to find some sources and hopefully a match. This is one location I found, but there are others. http://hubcapmike.com/how-to-choose-baby-moon-hubcaps.html Hope this helps. Rich.

Hi Lou, Welcome to FMCA. There are 2 items to check first. One being over flow or tank vent line and see if there is fuel trapped in the line or something else blocking it. The second is the fuel vapor venting system. This consists of lines that return the fuel vapor to the charcoal filter and a solenoid that opens to vent the vapor, that is controlled by the ECM to allow the vapor to flow in the line to the mentioned Filter. Unless your familiar with these systems it might be best to have a engine mechanic / tech check things for you. Often these systems are added to a chassis by the Chassis manufacture. Rich.

Hi Bill, Welcome to FMCA. Do you have a Workhorse Chassis? If so, then look for a 30 amp fuse. If its the blade type it should be Green in color. They use fuses of different sizes from Mini,Maxi, E-Z and a few others. So it is hard to tell amperage from size alone. The test light mentioned by mrboyer is a good tool to fined the open ones. Post your chassis model if its different. Rich.

Raiders, You might want to contact, Al Vormittag. He is X Military and might have some good feed back for you. The Military Veterans come under the International Area; President International Area Alfred Vormittag, Jr., F231342, 303-589-9504 abv24theroad@gmail.com Hope this gets you started on the path to find a Chapter that fits your needs. Thanks for your Service !!!! Rich.

The ECM on your engine should have set a code. You should be able to read it using the check engine light and the switches under the dash next to the steering column. You should check or have a mechanic check the valve train settings. There is a specific method and clearance to set the intake and exhaust valves. Having the rocker arm come loose on the 1 cylinder, could mean that others are loose also or out of spec. Rich.

Killintime, Welcome to FMCA ! Do you have the owners manual for you refrigerator? Some manuals have more or less information depending on model and year. With the frig tripping the circuit breaker, I would think the AC Heater unit is shorted out. That being the case it might be time to replace the unit. It lasted around 18 years, not bad for this type refrigerator. Rich

Daffy, I had a similar problem on a different chassis years back! It was almost impossible to keep on the road. The big problem was in the front king pins(Ball Joint Area). Once it was rebuilt it went down the road much better. With only 17k miles on it they should be covered under warranty, I would think. Mine was rebuilt with less the 10k on it, but I had to fight to get them to believe me. Rich.

Raiders, A Welcome to FMCA also. New American Coach so I'm wondering if you might have a MS-2000 charger / Inverter. They have a 30 amp reset / breaker on them. If you have the manuals for the unit, look and see a picture of it in your information. you should see 2 circuit breakers and 1 reset button. the reset is closest to the front as you look at it on the left hand side near the bottom corner. Should it not restart, then push and hold the power push button for about 15 seconds, a LED should flash for a short time then when you release it it should stop flashing. This indicates that it has reset. You would not have any 12 volts for the coach and would lose AC on two of your 110 volt AC power circuits. Also, look at this link for more information on what I think your problem is: http://community.fmca.com/topic/5222-no-power-to-110-outlets-in-coach-area-unless-inverter-is-turned-on/ Rich.

There are 3 possible locations where splines or friction connections are generally used. Two points are at the bell crank assemblies where the wiper arms attach to the front of the coach and the other is as the point where both actuator arms connect to the wiper motor bell crank. Should the arms now stop at different positions, then check the point where they connect to the post or spline, that each arm is connected. If the wipers are stopping at about the same location relative to where they stopped before the problem, then you need to check the connection at the motor and drive actuator arm link(s) and connection links. This can be a confusing assembly for one not accustom to mechanical items. Also. look for any damaged parts, things that just do not look right; or bent in away that does not look quite right. If you have any question about what your are looking at, just get some help from a mechanic you trust. Always good to get a second pair of eyes on something, then to have to buy or try to find an item(s) that can be hard to find at times. You can look at this link to see what some of the systems look like. http://community.fmca.com/topic/4965-windshield-wiper-system-parts-catalog-for-rvs/?hl=%2Bwiper+%2Bparts Hope this information helps. Rich.

jprince, Welcome to FMCA !Is this a new issue with the Wipers ? The wiper drive assemblies very, but most are made to set the wiper stop position using a spline drive or a friction drive coupling. The splines can ware, this lets the blade drive arms move out of position. The friction style coupling can become loose and one or both arms will move out of position or fail to work altogether. You might check and see how your wiper system is set up, then reset there stop position. Should you not be sure how to do this, check with a service center or mechanic to get some help or pointers on how you might reset yours. Rich.

This is a link to a PDF file covering your model and year coach. From the information listed you have a fiberglass roof, so what you see pealing off is a clear coat applied to protect and extend roof appearance. One can clean and reapply the clear coat or have it professionally applied. http://media.gowinnebago.com/models/globalElements/brochure/previous-models/2007/winnebago/07-Aspect-bro.pdf Rich.

This link covers the operation and use of Jake braking. Primarily on big rigs, but the same operation and application applies to RV's. Rich.

Barluis, Welcome to FMCA !! From the information you supplied, it sounds like the shift point pressures are set a little high. You might want to have a transmission tech run a pressure test for the shift points to see if they are set properly. Then you can discuss the possibility of lowering the the shift point pressure settings to reduce or eliminate the hard shifting. Hard to speculate on any problems with out all the information a tech should be able to supply you. Rich.

OK Got you Rudy ! I was thinking water between where the slid and coach wall meet, not the side wall of the slid its self. If you do not have a leak when the slid is in, then it would be where CampCop mentioned or at the roof line where the top of the slid and sidewall are matted. Rich.

Hi Roger, Sounds like the air ride is tied into the leveling system. Once you are level the suspension bar function is disabled. Sounds like a logic circuit lock out or a defect in the logic system controlling the suspension. Now the question I need to ask. Have you been able to run the engine in the past to air up items and have the suspension bar work once you have leveled. What level system is your coach equipped with and the Model number? Rich.

Hi Rudy! I have a different make and manufacture, but had a similar problem. On mine there are seals on the inside edge of the slide, that when the slide is out seal the slide roof line between the coach wall and the inside lip of the slide. You can see and feel the seals with the slide slightly retracted. You might need to clean them and the roof surface where it seals between the roof line and the top of the slide out roof. Also wipe down all the seals with some silicon, this will clean them and and help keep them conditioned. Dirt builds up on the roof and seals and allows water to seep in between. Should the coach be tilted so the curb side is a little higher water can pool along the area of the seal. Hope this helps. Rich.

Leo, So glad you got things worked out with GS and a working solution for the hydraulic system. You have so much information regarding this issue, that you qualify as the forums expert. Hurray Hurray and Hurray !!!!!!! Safe and MANY trouble free miles ----- Rich.