dickandlois

Hi Don, It appears from all the information I have been able to find that the safety circuit design works, maybe too well; regarding current spikes. The board forces one to keep a close eye on the AC heater coil for possible arcing between the coil and the ammonia tank. The board will shut down the heater and control board should it sense a current spike above a preset level. This insures there is no power present that can cause an arc lasting long enough to burn a hole in the tank. Remember, should one reset the board and have it immediately re-fault, there is a STRONG possibility of arcing and a through check of the coil and tank area is required. Also, from what I have found regarding the fires reported, most if not all happen when the refrigerators are running on AC and not on LP. Maybe too well, is only because the current sensor is so sensitive. Better to low then not low enough! Note, there are power loggers that can be connected between the AC power socket and the refrigerator, at will create and store a log on current and voltage conditions; one can review and even print out a paper log if desired. Rich.

Moland, Welcome to FMCA !! When you changed the sensors around and the shift pattern changed, that would mean a defective sensor. So you are going to have one replaced at least. The transmission needs information from both to set up the proper shift points. Having the scan tool readouts would help narrow down the issue. Do you have a scan tool? some of the simpler ones will not always read all the sections of the control code from all the modules. I will look and see how transmission sensors and the speedometer signal are related. The OBD-2 codes would narrow things down faster because the shop manuals list each code and the procedure for checking and repairing. The list for improper shitting, lists Faulty speed sensor,refer to speed sensor DTC's Loose speed sensor, Loose or damaged speed gear and a number of others. The TCM needs all the sensors to be working to set the control solenoids for each gear. The Speedometer defaults to 0 if a malfunction, if there is a fault in the speed signal circuit. (PCM circuit) Rich.

Just got this information from another forum. Resetting the Safety Board Posted: 08/07/13 12:02pm Some Norcold information I thought I would share it. As of June 28, 2012, Norcold is no longer providing dealers with replacement recall kits (#634737) for failed temperature monitoring control modules. They have instead provided a troubleshooting tree and a reset procedure. The gist of the tree is 1) if the module light is blinking fast, it is not seeing the thermocouple, 2) if the module light is blinking slow, it is seeing an under voltage condition, 3) if the module light is always on, it has sensed an overheat condition. When the light is ON solid, the module is in what they term a "lockout state". To clear the lockout, they suggest using a magnetic screwdriver (they show the type with replaceable tips) held against the plastic cover above the light parallel to the ground for five seconds. If the module fails to reset, they suggest a stronger magnet. This seems to be their fix. They also have a new and differently configured 'Rev E' unit that has a locking connection for the thermocouple. This is a link to a Tech. bulletin from Newmar that might prove helpful. http://comnet2.newmarcorp.com/instance1Env77NEWMAR/html/images/TSB395.pdf Rich.

Charlie, Sent you a private message regarding the switch. Thanks again Tom !! Rich.

The one item that has tipped the scales in favor of the newer members of the RVing family is the presents of forums like this one and some of us that have been owners for an extended time can pass on knowledge, information and possible sources of services and parts. Should you be new to this life stile, just ponder the though of truly being on your own before the internet, cellphones an the GPS system. One used maps and a compass, not a bad skill to have. I frequently thought of it as the modern day horse and buggy. The trails where paved, but the adventure was real. You must remember that our old coaches Where like the old Model T's. Got you where you wanted to go, but did not have all the complexities that are common place today. We did and can get by without our cell phones. My grand kids are lost without them. Hay, I try to by a car without power windows and with a old fashioned key. That is hard to do !!!! Is it really progress ?? Rich.

Thanks Tom, I will have to look over the prints and see what shows up! They do use a lot of fuses in there wiring !! Rich.

Charlie, The Buzzer on most of the coaches, goes off when there is an issue with Low Air, Low Coolant, High Water Temp., and low oil. So make sure everything is OK before disabling the circuit. It is not a switch as you know them, but a Diode array and the only way to silence it is to disconnect the power wire at the buzzer. Should you disable it then, one needs to be very aware of the status of the above mentioned items. Red wires at the switch may disable the buzzed, but do the brake lights still work. Any interruptions of the wiring can disable other circuits. Rich.

Charlie, Welcome to FMCA! Could you post the Year, Make, and Model of your coach for the group. Your post mentioned that you where reading 120lbs. are both gauges reading the same? Rich.

Tim, The window of a fully charged battery is rather narrow and its not only the voltage, but the current available. A new battery should read 12.5 volts, plus or minus .5 volts. They should read between 12.25 and 12.5 volts for a 12 volt battery after setting 12 to 24 hrs. A hydrometer reading of 1.265 or greater at 80°F indicates a full charge. As the voltage readings drops so do the hydrometer readings and the current available. Look at this link to get information on 12 volt batteries and charge levels. http://www.mmbalmainauto.com.au/PDF/State_of_charge_12_volt_batteries.pdf Rich.

The problem of good service and mechanics from my prospective has gotten more difficult, as it has for many others. The complexity of automobiles and in all the modes of transportation, along with all the requirements to meet the ever increasing regulations, has changed the skill level and the cost of industry exponentially. When we travel, the combined skill sets and education of my domestic engineer and mine have served us well. The need for service facilities being diminished by skills learned while living a country life and limited resources trained both members of this team. There is / has been a drive nationally for everyone to get a collage degree. With the current cost of getting a 4 year degree many have to look at what they get for there dollar. With the income of those with good trade school skills and the shortage of carpenters,electricians, system controls, mechanics, mechanist, tool and die skills, model making, plumbers, heating and ventilation and others, with pay scales starting in the mid to upper five figures to the low six figures and the number of openings in the skilled trades making them more attractive; one can only hope the gap is narrowed. Rich.

Wallee, you might look for the control and cables at this link. I have always found it a little challenging to use, but a phone call might help. http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?make=ford&year=1994&model=F-450%2BSUPER%2BDUTY&a=www.google.com%2BSearch%2Bfor%2B1994%2Bford&ck[iD]=0&ck[idlist]=0&ck[viewcurrency]=USD&ck[php_SESSION_ID]=6nhh2p58e2uhteaprkfd73b4b2 NAPA is also a good possibility. Rich.

limjpr, When you mention changing the filter, are you referring to the filter in the gas tank? Did you change any of the other filters? When you installed the pump did you check or have the fuel pressure checked? Do you remember who made the pump or where you purchased it ? Rich.

Fred. Thanks for your feedback! Intermittent problems are hard to find and from your information regarding Codes 33 and 36. That kind of puts them to rest. One more item you could check is under the access cover located just above the circuit breaker and start / stop switch. One screw to remove to open it. Under it are 3 fuses. The one to look for is F1=10 amps. F2=10 amps ,but is the starter fuse and F3 is 25 amps and is for the glow plugs. My thinking is maybe the fuse and connection point(s) is loose or corroded and contact is lost, should power to the Control module get interrupted it would shut down. So looking and cleaning the contacts and fuse might be worth the time. Codes can be set when the sensors fail or the connections related to those items become corroded or loose. In your case with multiple codes one would start to think a common problem to both. The other big one is the ground connections, but if its under the covers, checking them is a bear !! Hope these thoughts help and Good luck Rich.

The Xantrex information listed in the second post (#2), Brett attached a link to the owners manual that will display a 404 error. Link moved or no longer available. What I have found is that the original printing of the manual is no longer on Xantrex's list of manuals One can get an owners manual at this link. However! The Troubleshooting section just lists what the LED display patterns mean. http://www.xantrex.com/documents/Inverter-Chargers/Freedom-458/Freedom458%28445-0193-01-01_rev-2%29.pdf The link below is for information on troubleshooting the unit. This short Guide covers items and information no longer listed in the available manual. This information was printed in 1998. Allot has changed in 15 years! http://www.tekrispower.com/pdfs/xantrex/Freedom-Fleet%20Power%20Troubleshooting.pdf I have a feeling that other information included in the Original Printing is missing, but hope this fills in some of the gaps. Note! this information will list 12, 24, and 32 volt units. The 32 volt units are out of production and a 48 volt unit has replaced it. The 48 volt units are more for the residential solar systems. The other item that one runs into with equipment! The parts be come harder to find or are NLA. With that in mind one would be better off replacing an older unit. For those who love a challenge, finding a old manual and the proper skills. It makes for a interesting hobby. Rich.

Big Dog, Looking at the circuit(s) regarding DLR( day time Running lights) one might expect to find if the chassis in question has been prewired for the option. The Junction Block,(location could very on different year chassis) contains the head light relay and would have one dedicated to the Day Light Running lights. They would leave this relay out if the lights are not added as an option in most cases. The wire color running from the stationary connection on the relay to power the lights is Dark Blue in the information I have. The switch side(moving contact) connects to a 10 amp fuse in the junction box. One for the lights and a second 10 amp fuse for the relay coil. The circuits are wired into the BCM(body control module) This is the module that controls the DLR relay, so when the headlights are on it opens the low(ground) side of the DLR relay. This powers down the Daytime running Lights. Also,Turns them on when the Transmission is in gear and off if the parking brake are in gauged. That one is a little strange from my way of thinking, because if you engage the transmission to turn them on and then engage the parking brake, they are turned off so you can not check to see if they are working. Makes it a 2 person job. Hope this helps answer your question to some point. The wiring harness for the DLR's could be tucked away,but where is a question that I can not answer. Rich.

The power of nature ! This Video just showed up on the internet news and I thought it might be an interesting video for others to view. http://news.yahoo.com/blogs/daily-buzz/utah-family-films-car-struck-lightning-162519853.html It's the comment at the end by the reporter regarding the tires that kind of makes a point, the power a lightning bolt can pack. Rich

Tim, There are a number of variables. At times things go bad even with good service. The Key item to extending the life of the coach is maintenance, checking the exterior frequently for any sign of a problem, seals and condition of the roof. good old soap and water. Check the interior often for any sighs of water intrusion around the roof where items are mounted and window seals. Fix things ASAP! Changing the oil, filters and fluids at regular intervals, keep track of fluid levels. Oil, filters, grease and fluids are a good investment considering what they protect. Check the drive train and chassis components on at least a yearly bases. The number of miles one can expect them to run is tied to how the owner drives them and where. Must admit that I have driven them into places and locations that some others might even question driving a 4 wheeler. I was a lot younger, but I still push the envelope at times. You take care of the coach and it will reward you. Rich.

cmarq, Did you have intermittent or noise issues before the current problem? Do you have the Radio option on your system? if so is it working? There could be a corroded or loose connection somewhere under the dome cover, look them over, clean the contacts carefully with a clean pencil eraser. One could check all the system connections, things get shaken well going down the road. Think I would change the set up dip switches that change your provider by switching them off and on. That information should be in the information you got with the dish. The controller board(s) logic outputs command the higher current circuits. Rich.

Wow ! That is like only 30 to 40 gallons of gas Tops!!! I would venture you have an issue(s) that need to be addressed before installing any type of fuel pump... Have you changed ALL the fuel filters, there is one along the frame rail,curb side about mid frame that has threaded connections because of the pressure in the system. The other item that is missed frequently is the fuel return line. There is a section of rubber line right near the point where the steel return line enters the frame, just in front of the right front top A frame member for the suspension. This hose can get crimped or pinched off thus restricting fuel flow adding abnormal restriction and pressure into the system. Look it over closely. Its a preformed hose when a supplied OEM part is used. The other and harder item to check is the fuel tank for an accumulation of rust that can plug up the filter sock inside the tank supply line. Gas tanks that are not stored with a full load of fuel can rust quickly and the rust only has one place to go, the bottom of the tank. Not good for an engine that is always hungry for fuel. One can get a small electric fuel pump and insert it into the supply line(connection made where the filter enters the filter with the proper connection) and see if there is a good flow of fuel through the pump as it flows into an empty gas can. No sparks or ignition source and plenty of fresh air running this test !!!! If it takes longer then the specification on fuel rate for the pump to fill a given sized gas can, then there is a very good possibility of a restricted pickup in the tank. Rich.

Charles, Check the transmission fluid level, It maybe time to have the transmission serviced. The other item that can give you a winning sound is the rear differential, so check it for proper gear oil level and it might be a good idea to have it changed also. My thoughts on where to start. Rich.

fnlatch, Welcome to FMCA! #3 low level fault code, read high level codes. #33 High engine temperature code. Check coolant and load on generator. #36 fuel issue, pick up level of fuel to low. This is a point where the fuel in the tank is not available for the generator, this is so you do not run out of fuel to get to a gas station. #37 Invalid Generator configuration have unit checked at service center. So with that information, is you fuel gauge below 1/4 tank? and or are you running a heavy electrical load in hot weather? If not then code #37 needs to be addressed. Rich.

Big Dog, do not know the exact circuit, but they come on when one puts the transmission in gear and turn off when one turns on the marker lights or headlights. Got a Chev. truck with them and have the shop manuals, so maybe over the next few days I can find out where and how they are wired into things. Rich.

Hi Jim, What engine do you have and how many miles on the new fuel pump? What type of fuel delivery system, fuel injectors or throttle body carburetor? There might be other issue(s) that took out the old one and the new pump. Fuel filters, dirt in fuel tank or a blocked fuel return line. That being the case an inline fuel pump may not solve the problem. Rich.

Russell and Barbara, Welcome to FMCA Group. The starting point for my wife and I has always been making a list of items we would like to have in a coach and prioritize them Second, how do we plan to use the coach and will it fit into the way we like to travel. Third, where do we want to go and will the coach allow us to stay in the campgrounds in the areas we want to visit. Forth, do we want to pull a toad (will we need to and have one more vehicle to maintain) or just rent a car, if we will be staying for a week or should we buy a coach that will be easy to drive just about anywhere. Will we be staying in an area for an extended stay, Then do we need to consider a coach that can tow a car. You will notice that our first consideration is far from an make or model coach. That kind of comes in to the picture as our lists get prioritized.OH and do not forget things like hobby's. Then we can start looking for the amenities, floor plans and the layout of the interior. Everything you can think of is on the table and use your prior travels and experiences to help in the choice. Rich.

mdilts, Welcome to FMCA The issue is the 458 charger is not charging your coach batteries. Questions: Could you post the Make,Model and Year of your Coach ? The coach manufactures wire things a little different. Do you have the Owners Manual and or the installation Manual? Do you have any of the AC outlets that are not working ? Reason for the questions is I'm trying to find some problem and eliminate others in the AC power feed. Rich.