dickandlois

Gramps is this the size of the seal you posted the link to ? Rich

I was looking for some different Workhorse information when I ran into this information. Found some information on file that covers Workhorse. If you have questions, please post your specific chassis information including Year and chassis model numbers. I will try to supply the requested information link. Rich.

Hi Gary, Looks like you coach is built on a Freightliner Chassis so with the last 6 numbers / Letter is often the first part of the 6. They should be able to send you the chassis wiring, and electrical. Plus the Air Brake plumbing. What Cummins Engine do you have ? With that information I can send you the link for the Engine oil and filter intervals. The other item you may want to ask Freightliner is if they have the fluid and filter interval information on the Hydraulic cooling and power steering systems. The Coach wiring would have to come from Coachman. Like Herman mentioned. Rich.

Hi Jurica, Welcome to FMCA. Like DD mentioned, you probably will need a Battery as the main source of 12 volts. Unless you have a larger solar setup on your coach and when the sun goes down your refrigerator will shutdown. Rich.

Sounds like the throttle position sensor under the pedal or the wiring in that area. Just wondering if when you came back from your trip, if you vacuumed the coach and just hit or bumped the wiring harness behind the accelerator. Like DD mentioned. If so that is where I would start looking. Could you list the model of your Cummins, Like an ISL or ISM for the group. Thinking you have a harness behind the pedal with 6 wires, 3 for the Accelerator and 3 for the Idle on switch. The idle switch lets the ECM know the peddle is not depressed and signals the engine brake to engage if its turned on. Rich.

Leo, Thanks for the feedback and information. Happy and safe travels!! Rich.

Scott, the switch is most likely made by Carling. Check out this link. http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Carling-Technologies/V6D2GHNB-AAC00-000/?qs=TJJUft5dbNfH1tQj0XylcA%3D%3D&gclid=CLa11ZDP4bgCFY2e4AodFmAA7A Look at the bottom section, other people also bought these. You will see the stile that closely matches yours, but not one picturing the generator symbol. Should you find out that the switch is a Carling, then look at the information on how to remove the top portion and attach it the a new bottom or the actual switch portion of the unit. The bulbs burn out and its been awhile since I have used them to build items, but you might be able to just buy the lamp for it. Rich

Bluegrass, Welcome to FMCA ! The Switch failure is rare, can you start your generator at the generator? Could you post if your coach has a Gas or Diesel Onan. There is a Diesel switch listed at this link. Yours maybe different. You might be able to contact coach manufacture regarding a new switch. http://www.electricgeneratorsdirect.com/power/cummins-onan-remote-start.html?gclid=CPinqcKl4bgCFZSY4AodmTYAJw Rich.

Don, You mentioned the Year of the Coach. Could you post the Make and Model of the coach for the group? Rich.

Thank You ! that fills in a gap, between the regulator and the orifice size; helps understand the relationship between the two. Rich.

You are correct DD, but a pressure regulator setting of 9in. would reduce the flame and a setting of 13in. would increase the flame. That to me means the pressure readings relate to the flow rate, so its a direct indicator of the flame size the way I look at the reading. The regulator settings for the water heaters and furnaces set the flame size, where on a stove the burner is set by the burner knobs. Placing a regulator with a 11in. pressure setting in the gas line of a grill before the flame control regulator that normally controls the low to high setting, will limit the flow so after reaching a flame size between low and medium, one can increase the setting to high and the flame size will not change in size. Rich.

KMiller, Welcome to FMCA. Think you coach is equipped with the RVA System. The link below will get the information regarding the operation of a 3 point leveling system. You can read over the information. They do a better job covering how there system works then I could do. Like most things there are pros and cons depending on ones point of view. http://www.rvajacks.com/ Rich.

Hi Tom, Welcome to FMCA ! Just finished doing some upgrades to the computer software and opened the the forum. Looking at some of the sections and threads I noticed that there was no responses to your post. Did you get an answer to your question ? If not could you post the Make, Model and Year of your coach for the group. Rich.

Phil, Water column is in reference to how the output pressure or gas flow is measured. Brett mentioned the manometer and this is the tool / Meter that measures the flow rate of the regulators and the standard is in inches of water. Like a air pressure gauge is used to check tire pressure. Most gas regulators for RV appliances are set at 11in. of water or as DD mentioned about .25lbs of air pressure. Pressure gauges do not measure things very well at the low of a pressure. Rich.

Dr. Don. I forgot to ask the reason you have to pull the engine. Should you decide to pull it or just need to, while its out you may want to change the timing chain and gears. Look into replacing them with the timing set from the 392 engine. Should be a direct fit. The reason is, they do not put the plastic catting on the gears to reduce the the noise, so that is two fewer items to go bad, as plastic brakes down over time and the timing chain can jump timing as the plastic wears. The other item is, they used a plastic coupler at the point where the oil pump and distributor connect and that coupler is pron to braking and one looses oil pressure. The drive gear between the cam shaft drives the distributor and not the oil pump. there is a slot in the lower end of the distributor shaft and the oil pump shaft has a flat ( a little like a flat headed screw driver) that fits into that slot. Held in place by a plastic coupler. Good luck, Rich.

The pan gasket on the 454 power Coach needed to be replace and I wanted to replace the Oil pump at the same time. The shop said that on my coach they would have to remove the front cowling. That is removing the entire front from the coach. So like Chris mentioned, get some feed back for different shops and service centers. I did the work on my engine, Removing the chassis connections and the Doghouse cover and side assembly, Pulled the front sets, placed plywood over floor rug, loosened the exhaust pipes from the hearers, Removed part of the drive shaft, Assembled the engine hoist inside the coach, Connected a chain to the lift points on the engine and the hoist, disconnected the transmission and slid it out of the way. Loosened the motor mounts, Drained the cooling system, removed the radiator hoses, Lifted the engine slightly, removed the engine mount bolts lifted the engine and mover it back just enough to remove the flywheel so I could get the oil pan to just clear the front axle cross member, removed the oil pump and the distributor. Them installed the new oil pump, pan gaskets and seals. Set the pump drive shaft so that the distributor shaft would connect to the oil pump drive and the engine timing was close to its proper setting. And started to reassemble everything in the reverse order that I had removed things. One needs the proper tools and equipment to do this. The good thing was it worked after all the work. One for the old guy and he was allot younger at the time. Had I needed to pull the engine, think the approach would have worked, the biggest issue that I could foresee was getting the engine out the side door with the help of a wrecker to control the engine weight so it would not fall as the hoist was extended out the side of the coach. The job is not for the faint hearted and every move must be thought out in advance. Rich.

Harvey, The tag axle can be raised and lowered. To change the load the axle is carrying, to being lifted off the road. When lifted off the road surface the drive tires have better traction and as you mentioned it helps make sharp turns with out the tires scuffing across the surface. Rich.

Sounds like a venting problem or loose clamps as suggested by DD. With a full fuel tank as the fuel heats up and expands it will be forced back out the filler hose to a point it can leak out. The fuel filling line needs to be above the tank inlet level the entire length of the fill line, no dips between the Filler Cap and fuel tank. Could you post if the Bus is hard to fill, like takes fuel slowly or fuel kind of bubbles back out the filler when fueling? Rich.

Dean, Just wondering what you intake manifold temps run when you water temps hit 226 deg. The only time we had major cooling issues was when the thermostat failed, driving at any altitude or temperatures was impossible with the slightest grade. When its hot (90+) and running at over 5000 ft. I'm right at the point where my temps. start to go above the comfort zone. The rest of the time everything runs within or near nominal. Same elevation, same road: early AM or evening when its just a little cooler, back around 80 deg. the engine coolant runs right at 190/195 and the intake temp only runs around 170 / 180 when running up hill. I do pressure wash after returning from a trip of over 3K when we return home and more often should we travel in dusty areas when a truck stops shows. up. I'm thinking that the CAC and radiator cooling capacity is maxed out around 90deg. and over 5000ft. pulling a grade for an extended period. Should one of them fail, I well be looking at resizing both. Rich.

Hi Maiti62! Welcome to FMCA ! I'm not the main operator of ours, there are some tricks to loading and using them. The DW attended a seminar at one of the FMCS Rally's to get the lowdown. Do know that they work OK, just have to get used to smaller loads, but then I'm only the traveling Mechanic. Rich.

Kay, I'm not sure of his skill level(s) and the possibility of the shock hazard! Capacitors spark well when discharged and pack a shocking result when not discharged! The other item is the starter block. Hope we get back his thoughts before proceeding. Rich.

Does the tag Axle go down properly? Enough to support some of the coach weight? There could be an air leak at some point! should the air lines pass through the frame rail(s) look closely for any chaffing / ware to the line at that point and like Herman mentioned, check the MAC vent port for obstructions. You mentioned that you had 12 volts to the Valve, have you checked the ground connection? Rich.

Hi Phil, Welcome to FMCA ! How long has it been sense you used the fridge on LP? The one thing that I would check is gas heater vent. Mud Dobbers, Wasp and other insects love to build nest in the area. Think this link will get you to an owners manual for it. http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/operating/rm2310.pdf Rich.

djbreithaupt, You might want to contact Freightliner Factory Service. http://freightlinerchassis.com/component/option,com_servicecenters/Itemid,64/bl,00/so,FCSC/view,servicecenter/ I do not know where you live, but they work on all there chassis and would be a good starting point for information and service. You will need to have the last 6 numbers / letter of your VIN. number. Rich.

jlacaeyse, This is a link to the Winnebago sight for information on parts and manuals. Electrical information available, click on the links related to you coach. Do not know your skill levels, but you can look over things and see what is involved regarding the different systems on your coach. http://www.winnebagoind.com/resources/manuals/ Rich.