dickandlois

It is a good distance between Rapid City on Rt. 90 to where you get to Rt.94 in Montana and at night they roll up welcome rug and turn off the lights. BTDT on fumes myself. Rich.

Hi Jim, With your AC service tech checking the system, I would think he ran a vacuum test on it before refilling it with freon. That just about covers the entire system for leaks. The one item that can cause an issue and is very hard to find or detect is the high and low points in the systems used to charge and test them for proper operation are the schrader valves and their seats. A small leak over time will allow the freon to escape. A bad valve or a bad seat that the valve seal sets in can cause the problem and is very easy to miss with standard test and charging setups. Hope these thoughts help find the problem. Thanks for your service! Rich.

Good morning Jiminy, This is a link to much of the wiring information for your model. Read it over carefully. Then download what you need or think will help. http://www.winnebagoind.com/diagram/Wiring.htm Rich.

Hi Jim and welcome to FMCA. Brian asked some good questions. Could you post the Model you have like SD40AD or another model in the Vectra Series. Power to the key switch should come from a fuse / relay panel on the vectra series there are 2 panels in many cases. I keep thinking there is a disconnect relay / solenoid circuit with a blown fuse or fuse able link that may have failed in that circuit. Rich.

Thanks DD, I have one, so when it stops raining I will be using it. The comb I have has 6 sizes from 8 to15. One of them should do the trick, the fins are really messed up. Got a feeling it will take some time to make it work efficiently again. It took less then 30 min. to make a real mess. Edit-7-2-2013-- Well the fins are bad enough that a fin comb will not open them up, so I used a pocket knife to open each fin one at a time. Got about 80% of one unit done today and that made a big difference. As I get them opened up I will run a Comb through them and see if I can make them look a little better. Only 20% left on this one and one more to go. Rich.

This might be a possible supplier. http://www.tractorsupply.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/SearchDisplay?storeId=10151&catalogId=10051&langId=-1&pageSize=20&beginIndex=0&searchSource=Q&sType=SimpleSearch&resultCatEntryType=2&showResultsPage=true&pageView=image&autoSuggestURL=AutoSuggestView%3FcoreName%3DMC_10001_CatalogEntry_en_US%26serverURL%3Dhttp%253a%252f%252ftsc-prod-lb01.crossview.inc%253a3737%252fsolr%252fMC_10001_CatalogEntry_en_US&searchTerm=Trailer+Tires Rich.

While attending the FMCA Rally in Gillette WY. this mouth, wind driven hail did a job on the roof AC condenser units condenser fins. The back of the units faced the wind driven hail. The units still work, but with the reduction in air flow their efficiency is affected. Now that we a back home, I will post some pictures in the Photo Gallery section in the next few days; weather permitting of the damage and how to repair the damage. Rich

Hi Paul, got the information, slim to none regarding the wiring. More like a block diagram, like you mentioned not any real any help. Now this might be something you should check into. Recall--- http://www.usrecallnews.com/2012/12/thor-motor-coach-electrical-system-recall.html Rich.

Dave, We are frequent fliers with Enterprise. When we travel and are not going to stay in one place for an extended time we can get a set of wheels that match what we want to do. Truck or car. Also, one less thing to brake on the road. Rich.

Ron, found the information that I was looking for. http://www.duralite.net/node/15 They make both Radiators and CAC units. You will need to find a retailer for these units and an account to get there catalogs I have seen them and was impressed with there construction. Rich.

Hi Ron, I need to look over some of my notes to see what I can find. I do know that I grew up with Brass and Copper radiators and not to happy with the new ones. Rich.

Hi Paul, Your pictures show the slide controller and the control circuit fuses. They look to be 5 amps in size and you mention they are good. To check and see if they are slide control fuses, you can pull one and see if the slide goes out, if it did then see if it retracts with the fuse you removed. should it not retract then it would make sense that these are indeed the motor control circuit fuses and the box is the slide controller, not a battery isolator. The two items screwed to the wood block are auto resetting fuses, the size (amp capacity) should be on them. They control the high current circuits. Check them by reading for 12 volts between both sides and ground. I can not tell for sure if the larger wires are connected to theses fuses or not. The black units at the top of the picture are control relays from what I can make out from the pictures. Are there any numbers on the black box looking object (Slide Controller) other then STOP that I can read. Looks like an information label on top. The red wire with power, can you tell where it goes ? to a fuse or to the battery? The wire with no power looks like it loops up and around and exits to the right, and goes to where? The slide motor? or a relay / fuse? To run the motor in and out means the voltage across the motor must be reversed and the slide work. Where are you attaching power for the slide when it works? With shore power on, measure where you read 12 volts and then disconnect shore power and make some readings. Are they the same? You need to see or fine any different readings. making notes and label the wires in some manner indicating the difference. Now, looking at your drawings list all the numbers from the information you have on the drawings, Any numbers or model information on the bottom or top of the page(s) no mater how small and post them for me. I need to see if I can get a copy of the drawing you have, so we can have a better exchange of information. I will be on and off line over the next week, but I will try to keep an eye on your post and feedback. Rich.

Campcop might be talking about 3M Finesse-it II, Finishing Material. Contains on silicone or wax. Comes in quart size. Now, it is pricy, but I use it on clear coats, chrome, and my head light lenses to keep them polished. I use it only by hand to buff and polish. They mention using a buffing machine on an area 2ft. by 2ft. and I have done that, think I'm just old fashioned. Can see the luster reappear as I work in small areas. Think that you will find it a vary good surface cleaner. If you can find a body shop or doll-up shop that might us it, and get a little to try on a soft cloth. Use it in an area of the counter that might be along one edge of a wall or behind the stove or sink and see what you think. Then a coat of wax or good surface sealer / polish to finish the job. Rich. PS remember to keep items off the counter or have a rubber shelf pad under things, they will side off very easy !!!

Hi ddarstsr, Welcome to FMCA. I'm not the strongest when it comes to all the different Allison transmission setups, the electrical interfaces and how they get electrical power. I do hope that some of the members more familiar with your set up chime in with some information. Rich.

Hi Dave, welcome to FMCA, The two top items we consider are the floor plan and how you think they will work for you. Second is what kind of camping you like. Private campgrounds or rustic camping, like state and federal campgrounds where one can run into length restrictions. The next one for me is the CCC, Cargo Carrying Capacity. Then the condition and year, not so much the manufacture. Although we do have some coach manufactures that we tend to like over others. Some just tend to fit our needs better. The rest of the requirements go from there, we have kind of built a mental list over the years. You might just want to set down and make up one for your family's top requirements down to the lowest requirement. Remember this is your home away from home so everything is on the table. Even fuel capacity, water, gray and black water tank sizes, fresh water if you do some rustic dry camping and the list goes on !!! Hope these thoughts help. Rich.

Jby, Welcome to FMCA, This is a link to a Copy of the owners manual for your unit if you need one. http://www.roadtrek.com/_Uploads/manuals/Roadtrek_Owners_Manual_1997_All_Models.PDF This information from page 20 of the manual. Check the Cargo Carrying Capacity, See the information attached to the driver door post, inside of the Lower Galley Door. Have you checked the Weight of the coach with the load you have? Checking all four corners is the best way, but front and read weights would be better then the full weight to get an idea of your weight distribution Tire pressure is also a factor and the condition of the shock absorbers. Rich.

Ken , I'm still looking, if there is any numbers stamped into the rims you might try to call Alcoa. Not knowing the tire size or any other information. You might try this link to get a lead. The center caps where most likely supplied with the rims. http://www.alcoa.com/alcoawheels/north_america/en/wheels.asp?q=h&cat=1723&class=926&system=&size=19.5+x+6.00&circle= Rich.

Hi Martin, Welcome to FMCA. Right after the parts where changed did both air bags inflate? The air supply lines for the air bags is only a 1/4in. in size and is not a high volume line. The next question is do your air gauges read normally? Thinking your Red gauge would be running on the low side if you have some kind of leak. Freightliner uses one ride height control to control both rear airbags. So if one is inflating there is a plumbing issue or a hole in the new airbag and that is unlikely. Martin, a little slow this AM. I see that you did not change the air bag as I reread your post, so it could have a hole. They dry out and start to crack around the bags at the fold point as they age. Not something most owners want to tackle. Rich.

Monacomadness, Welcome to FMCA. Sounds like everything has been replaced. So what it sounds like, is a wiring issue as you can get the unit to work if the sensor connection(s) are disconnected. To me that would mean the sensor circuit is reading or sensing something other then the fluid level(s). Check all the wires running between the tank sensors and the control board for chaffed wires contacting metal between the tank and the board. You might be able to see if someone knows what the resistance reading(s) should be for the sensors. Measure the reading you get at the connector terminal for all of them. Also, check for proper grounds in the circuits, one loose or corroded connection can do you in. You did post that it went from green, then to yellow and then to red with no liquid or very little in the tank. Keep thinking Ground, Ground and Ground. The control board is reading, or I should say sensing a voltage level that is there only because of the lack of a good ground. So many times the shops just replace parts until the problem goes away and never know what the real issue was. Good luck and keep us posted. Rich.

Hi Mike, Welcome to FMCA. Good point Dwight, I wondered what the OEM bulb was also. Is it just one side or both headlight assemblies that are a problem? Mike, an increase in current due to wire gauge size voltage drop could be an issue. By any chance have you had the headlights on and felt the wires running to them to see if they might be running hot or unusually warm. There are a number of different H13 9008 series bulbs that have a wattage range from 50 to 65 watts and the silver star ultra runs at almost 70 watts. From the information I have found. Said another way, Resistance in a electrical circuit causes heat, so wire gauge and connection quality are critical to proper circuit operation. Mike as an after thought, check and make sure that the headlight circuits have good ground connections !!! Rich.

Hi Steve and Diana, Welcome to FMCA. Interesting idea ! You mentioned a 10 to 12 inch size hole, so do you have information on the washout system you are considering that you could post some additional information on that the Group could look at ? Rich.

Hi Ken, well these look close, if the size is correct. You might need to change all 4 of them. Look at page 4 in the catalog. http://www.realwheels.com/catalog/NewRWCatalog.pdf Rich.

Hi Ken, Welcome to FMCA. Looks like they are Classic Moon or Baby Moon hubcaps. Look like they where cut down or modified to fit the rim centers. You can Google Classic Hubcaps to find some sources and hopefully a match. This is one location I found, but there are others. http://hubcapmike.com/how-to-choose-baby-moon-hubcaps.html Hope this helps. Rich.

Hi Lou, Welcome to FMCA. There are 2 items to check first. One being over flow or tank vent line and see if there is fuel trapped in the line or something else blocking it. The second is the fuel vapor venting system. This consists of lines that return the fuel vapor to the charcoal filter and a solenoid that opens to vent the vapor, that is controlled by the ECM to allow the vapor to flow in the line to the mentioned Filter. Unless your familiar with these systems it might be best to have a engine mechanic / tech check things for you. Often these systems are added to a chassis by the Chassis manufacture. Rich.

Hi Bill, Welcome to FMCA. Do you have a Workhorse Chassis? If so, then look for a 30 amp fuse. If its the blade type it should be Green in color. They use fuses of different sizes from Mini,Maxi, E-Z and a few others. So it is hard to tell amperage from size alone. The test light mentioned by mrboyer is a good tool to fined the open ones. Post your chassis model if its different. Rich.