dickandlois

Hi Chief, Do not know what information you have for your system. These are links to there Technical Information & Component Drawings and there troubleshooting guide http://www.bigfootleveler.com/page.php?page_id=198 http://www.bigfootleveler.com/files/Troubleshooting_Guide.pdf From the information you posted, I would try to open the connection at each of the cylinders(one at a time)while someone activates the jack circuit for the jack you want to bleed. This would force out any air in that line. You need only to brake the connection very little and when you get fluid re tighten and and check the jack extension. To get the cylinder to make a full cycle ( completely extended) may take 2 or 3 cycles. Check the fluid level in the supply tank with the jack up so you do not run out of fluid !!! after cycling the jacks each time. Should this work, then you will want to keep an eye on base plate to see if hydraulic fluid is collecting on top of the foot. You could have seals leaking on the ones that do not extend fully. Some jack cylinders have grease fittings on the housing tubes and need a little lithium grease added periodically. Work safe under the coach. Rich.

Stefan, There is a possibility your coach has a fuse panel on the drivers side compartment under the drivers side window. Open the compartment and see if there is a screwed on panel covering the fuse panel. There is a main ignition fuse often 50 amp size, if the power step does not work. this is one of many of the items powered from this fuse. Also looks like there is a ignition relay on the panel. Might control the starter circuit. I also have been thinking that the ignition switch might be the problem. you mentioned that when the ignition switch is in the run position all the circuits powered from the switch work in this position, if I'm reading things properly. One way to test the starter circuit is to find the exciter supply voltage at the alternator and see if there is voltage there or not. If you have no power on that terminal, then look and see if that wire got grounded and that is also grounding the starter relay power. Should that happen then you could not start the engine. One little wire in the wrong place and things do not work. You did get the starter repaired and replaced just before this issue came up !!!!! Should you fine that the alternator energizer wire got grounded in error, then you might want to check the diode in that circuit ti see if it got damaged. Stranger things have happened. NOTE ! The alternator exciter voltage and starter voltage are only present when the key is in the start position. You could check out my Alternator issues photo gallery at this link. http://community.fmca.com/gallery/album/265-alternator-problems/ Still looking for additional information. The VIN number for your coach. VIN number location.Try turning the front wheels hard left and look on the outside of the right (passenger) side frame rail behind the right front wheel. With it we might be able to locate some additional information. This link might be worth looking into. http://www.monacointernationalrvclub.com/ Rich.

Hi Lee, Wish I could give you a good answer, however I have never owned a Beaver myself. Now, from your description I would lean towards a relay that is starting to fail. Had I owned a Beaver and found the manual crank setup to lower the unit that was hidden in a location that one can not access. I would be looking at an alternative access and if there is a disconnect to release the lift from the drive motor system so one could get to things when (an you know it will) fail. Rich.

Hi Stefan, Welcome to FMCA !! Could you post the year of your coach and transmission model for the group? When you mention not able to start, do you mean the starter will not engage ? How is the battery charge? and did the battery cables get reconnected properly? Rich.

DD Mentioned the Surge Guard, and there are other systems one can look into that might work as well. Regarding meters. I always have one to use, a must have in my travel kit. Look around Lowe's, or other hardware suppliers and find one you feel comfortable with. To be honest I have 2 that I carry. One works vary well for measuring high current and one that's a little smaller for use on most everything else. Rich.

Hi Larry. Excellent post !! This issue has come up at times and you have done a good job of explaining the cause and effect. Thank You for your time posting this information. Rich.

chp007kd40, thanks for your reply! We now know lower units can be damaged by large land animals, like you mentioned, but what are the odds is right. An the roof top units are at the mercy of Ravens, Hawks, Reindeer, low limbs and bridges. Thanks Rich.

Think the dryer vent line is 4in and a AC vent line is 6in. The size reduction will restrict air flow. So you may need to install a larger vent in the wall of the coach to achieve max. efficiency. You might want to check with a RV service center regarding installation a wall vent. Rich.

Thought I would add this link to another thread for windshield wiper parts that includes a link for a parts catalog for needed repair parts for some of the systems used. http://community.fmca.com/topic/4965-windshield-wiper-system-parts-catalog-for-rvs/?hl=%2Bwiper+%2Bparts Rich.

Hi Neal! Welcome to FMCA. One could check and see if the Temperature Sensor is properly located at the back of the oven flue box. This in under the main top cover, that part covers the burners and holds the burner grates in place. Also check to see if the Oven Shutoff valve is open all the way. If you do not have the information for your stove, this is a link to an maintenance manual that should be close to what you unit looks like. Some of the stoves had a oven thermostat that could be adjusted for the proper temperature. This would require a oven thermometer to read and set the proper range of the control. http://www.silveravion.com/downloads/maintenance/manuals/range_oven/magicchef_165_265_185_285.pdf Hope this helps. Rich.

Txphantom, Welcome to FMCA. This sounds like a common problem for your year FCC Chassis. There is a module / box located under the bed in many cases with Red and Green 1/4in. air lines connected to it. This box reads the air pressure and sends the information to your gauges. There have been a number of problems with the large solder connections. Some have replaced the unit at a cost of around $1000.00. Others have had the skills and tools to repair these solder connections. There is a procedure for repairing the board. You can contact me by Private Message, click on my Name above the picture opens a new page and look for the send me a message feature and contact me if you want more information. Rich.

With the same setup in regards to the manifold to pipe, one would think they would be the same as both are powered by 8.1 L engine. That kind of depends on the model year. You could call NAPA at 800-538-6272 and give them the two part numbers and see if they cross to the same number in there parts file. Rich.

Hi Wallee, You might try these links and get lucky. http://www.supersecuritylocksmith.com http://www.royaltruckbody.com/ http://www.trimaxlocks.com/_e/dept/29/KEYS.htm Rich.

Regarding the C 8.3 and ISC 8.3 engines: The C series uses a Bosch injector pump, this is a mechanical pump. The ISC 8.3 uses a computer controlled CAPS injector pump and the C 8.3 uses a mechanical pump. This is the biggest difference in the 97 and 98 year engines. 1998 is the first year the CAPS injector system was used. The other change was from the 12 valve heads to the 24 valve set up. Things are never perfect, but the 24 valve set up was a good improvement from my perspective. I have a friend that has a 12 valve setup and is very happy with it for its simplicity. One can contact Blue Chip Diesel to get some good information regarding injector pump at. http://www.bluechipdiesel.com/products.html They are one of the premier re-manufactures of injector pumps and specialize in the Bosch series pumps. They offer wide range of prices depending on what one wants to spend, and the warranty you feel comfortable with. A phone call to them could answer questions you might have on the different injector systems an pumps. Hope this helps. Rich.

Hi Ron, Glad you got the slide working. Just where was that circuit breaker located? Rich.

Andy, I tried to copy this image and it errors out, IMG_7678.JPG. It was there and then some how it just was gone. Did I mess it up your image some way? My son says I can mess up software better then anybody else he knows. My logic is not is sync with most computer software. LOL. Rich

Michael, Looking into the Engine brake information. I learned a little more. Do you have an engine brake range switch, that sets the amount of braking you can get from the engine? The engine brake system can be tied into the ABS system. If so then there are 2 relays in the system. K2-2 for the ABS line to control the engine brake and Relay K100 controlled by the brake peddle. A real wiring nightmare in some respects. Rich.

Michael, I have been checking into the codes. The interesting thing is that the 251-2-1 ASE-Cummings code looks like 319 code from Silverleaf are one in the same. Real time Clock error. The code readers look at the same problem and interpret then with different numbers. 251 =s PID / SID code 2 =s FMI Code 319 =s Eaton Code from what I have found. Everyone is listed as a real time clock error. looks like you get the same error, but with a different number depending on what or who's equipment one uses to read them. I hope someone can post some feedback and clear the muddy waters on this. I'm sure scratching my head. Got my head in front of the fan on this one. Rich.

Hi Dave, Welcome to FMCA. Possible solutions. http://www.rvwheelchairliftsoftexas.com/ http://www.abc-companies.com/rv_and_bus_wheelchair.asp http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/rvservice/rv-handicap-lift.htm http://www.auto-handcontrols.com/superarm_lift_system.htm http://www.handicappedtravelclub.com/htc-info.php Hope that these links might get you started to some fun traveling with your sons. Rich.

Thanks for the information. I do not see anything that stands out, but I'm going to go out of the box a little. But first could you post how many miles on it. Want to get a base line for what I'm pondering. That 319 code pops up on a number of the coach's as I look at the log history on one or two of the threads on the web page. One more thing, have you lubricated the engine brake's mechanical assembly, if your engine system has a maintenance schedule listed for that ? I have to look in my files and see if I have the Cummings ECM codes for your Engine on file. With the newer engines and ECM's the code list is getting rather long. If I have a list, I will go line by line to see if there is any code listed of any engine brake issues as time allows. In regards to the ECM storing a code, a little ify, There should e other issues if the ECM is being temperamental. I'm personally leaning towards some noise in or on the 12 volt chassis power lines / bus and that can be a real hard one to find. Do you have an oscilloscope by chance / the only way to see nasty noise spicks and they can come and go with temperature changes. Oh ! thanks for the little tip on the LCD screen, Will through that into the mix. The little things can make for a nasty brew. NOTE ! ECM Code,243='s isl Engine Brake Supply Circuit issue on engine up to 2003 year. Now can I find one for your model year >>??? Rich. NOTE ! Engine Brake Codes 2362 Engine Brake Actuator Circuit Number 1 - Voltage Below Normal or Shorted to Low Source 2363 Engine Brake Actuator Circuit Number 2 - Voltage Below Normal or Shorted to Low Source 2366 Engine Brake Actuator Circuit Number 1 - Voltage Above Normal or Shorted to High Source 2367 Engine Brake Actuator Circuit Number 2 - Voltage Above Normal or Shorted to High Source None of these codes present, so one needs to look at mechanical or power line corruption. Connections and grounds. Something in the air cylinder valve link or valve.

Mike, Could you post 2 or 3 pictures to your thread of the internal portion of the assembly and any numbers that are on the cover or other parts of the unit. Rich.

Copy of a PM I received from Dave. Sent 11 February 2013 - 10:55 AM Thanks for your interest, Only codes at time were egr and low voltage to ecm.voltage caused by bad battery,egr code common when thia happens according to dealer service mechanic. They say that this dropping valves is not real uncommon.Got mh back last week and now in Idaho,no problems so far.Had all new hoses coolant,all filters,radiator,exhaust manifold,etc installed with motor.manifold had small crack in it. After thinking about this earlier,when traveling in Arkansas in November mh started to miss coming threw mountians.We stopped to check and it sounded like a bad valve at exhaust,i drained fuel water seperator and it came out of miss so traveled on and it ran fine.This i think was valve seat being loose holding valve open.Dealer says seat coming loose is from too much idling and hot shut down.I bought mh used so i do not know if this was ever done.Told me usally valve problem occurs when motor still under warranty.Mine had been in storage for 4 years before i bought it. Again thanks for your concern.Happy traveling, Dave Thank You Dave for letting me know that you are up and running again. Got your second PM that mentioned your well on your way home. Rich.

Hi Cal. You can test the circuit that drives(powers) the device. A Latching relay requires only a momentary pulse to energize and a solenoid needs a continues 12 volts any time its powered. By connecting a test light across the coil contacts. They are the smaller wires connected to the small terminals. If its a latching relay you will see just a flash of the bulb and if its solenoid the light will remain on. Should the light flash and the circuit remain on, then its a latching relay. Its hard to tell if its a latching relay or a solenoid with a meter when a latching relay is used on a failed circuit or latching relay coil failure. Rich.

Hi Cal, Welcome to FMCA Forum. Excellent post with the importance of having jumper cables as part of your supplies. Glad that everything ended well. Rich.

Mike, that's good to know! thanks for the information. You will need to prime the engine once you get a new filter and cap screwed back on. Look over the procedure if you are not up to speed on priming the engine. That process can take time, I fill the filters with fuel before installing them. Can save a lot of time. Rich.