dickandlois

Herman, My 2001- 8.1- 2500 has a GM 80 series transmission. Thinking that the Allison was added around 02/03 time period. The bottom half of the early GM Diesels did not hold up well with the increased compression needed for the engine. Think they tried to use the same block that they used for the gas units. Rich.

I have three or four friends that are running them on there Coaches and all like them better then Michelin's. They report better performance when there is a cross wind and the coaches handle the road tracks caused by the heavy trucks better. They appear to have a different sidewall characteristic. So the ride is stiffer,but with air ride they perform well for them. If you look there are a number of the 18 wheelers running them. You might like to read Tireman's response to changing tire sizes that he posted today also. Posted 17 September 2012 - 09:24 PM Rich.

Neil, The crank sensors do fail. I had one fail, but it kind of cut out a couple of times, did not stop the engine entirely. It did finally shutdown the engine, the same way you described. I had around 70K on the truck at the time. Being that they do fail and the pattern fits your problem it might pay to have it replace. A real bad part can get through a test before its shipped. All it takes is a bad wire connection in the molded assembly and it will fail in short order. Then if that does not solve the issue one might check the grounds as I mentioned earlier. Being new does not mean that all the connections are good. Have had a few loose grounds on new vehicles over the years and there are allot of them to connect. Rich.

This is the only reference regarding drilling holes in the windows that you mentioned. Is this what you are asking about ? Rich. Posted 02 January 2012 - 04:53 PM I had the same problem in the front drivers side slider. I talked to the place in Fla. and they sounded very reliable but you need an appointment several mo.in advance. I did a jury-rigged fix because I could not see out to use the mirror. I drilled a couple holes approx .06 diameter at an upward angle about 1 in. from the bottom of the glass then did the same at the top. The heat (convection) vented the steam and it has worked for 2 years. Not very professional but cost "0" and had nothing to loose.

This will get a little long, but I hope it helps owners of coach's using this engine. Spark Plugs: 1983 to 89 Carburetor engine uses AC-R44T plugs, gaped at .045 1990 to 97 TBI engine uses AC-CR43TS plugs, gaped at .035 1996-98 MFI engines uses AC-41-932 plugs, gaped at .060 Plugs containing the suffix TS or CTS can be used interchangeably. However, during the 1986 model year, AC spark plug changed the center electrodes in there plugs to copper. For these plugs, the letter C maybe removed from the identification number on the jacket. Example: A spark plug with a code identification of R43TS or R43CTS would be changed to R43TS. Plug Wires: Delco. 1985 to 1986 H4D 12043750. 1985 to 1989 H5D 12072181 1990 to 1993 H5D 12074045 1994 - Later H5D 12096418 Plug Shield and Dielectric Milar Insulators Numbers: Delco. Cylinder #1 thru 6 and 8 10089660 2-5/8in. Cylinder #2 10089661 1-7/8in. Ignition Timing: 1. Remover the vacuum line from the distributor. plug the removed line to restore the vacuum integrity. 2. Engines with timing pointer on the top,Upper right side of engine looking from the front. Us the number one plug to trigger the light. 3. Motor homes chassis with the timing pointer on the bottom, Bottom left side of engine looking from the front. This procedure works better with two people to set the distributor. This requires using the #5 or #8 plug wire to trigger the time light. Check the timing mark first before setting timing, using both plugs to check the timing before proceeding. 4. Make sure the mechanical counter weights move freely and the assembly is in good working order. 5. Test the vacuum advance module on the distributor to make sure it is operating correctly and holds a set vacuum when tested. Electronic Module: None fuel injected engines- GM Part number 1875990 454 Fuel injected engines- GM Part number 16139369 Pole Piece: GM Part number 1875981 None Fuel injection. GM Part number 10474000 with Fuel injection. A Capacitor is used on some models. H.E.I. Test Procedure: ( You will be working with voltages that can reach 80,000 Volts so if you have not worked on these systems,get a pro to do the work) that much voltage can make for a bad day !!! Remove a plug wire from each plug one at a time using a H.E.I. Test spark plug ST125 or equivalent. If spark is present on all plugs H.E.I. system is OK. Note! Using the test plug instead of allowing the spark to jump to ground can help prevent possible damage to the module. Connect a test light between the distributor TACK signal terminal and ground. Turn on the ignition switch. If the light does not glow ,check the power at the distributor Bat terminal.If there is no power at the terminal, the problem is in the circuit wiring or the ignition switch. Some coaches use an ignition relay. Repair as required. If there is power at the BAT terminal and no power at the TACK terminal, the ignition primary coil winding is open. Replace the coil. If the light glows, crank the engine. The light should glow intermittently, indicating the module and pickup coil are working. Remove the distributor cap and check for spark at the center terminal of the cap using the H.E.I. Test Spark Plug and a jumper wire. If there is no spark, the rotor is not working and should be replaced. If there is no spark, the coil is not functioning and needs to be replaced. If the light glows steadily while the engine is being cranked, preform the module test. Module Test: Remove the Distributor cap and connect the H.E.I. Test Spark Plug to the center terminal with a jumper wire. Remove the pickup coil connector from the module(The Green and White wires) and turn on the ignition switch. Connect one end of a second jumper wire to the positive terminal of the connection feeding power to the distributor Cap and the other end to the small terminal of the module momentarily. ( The small terminal is the one generally connected to the Green wire) If there is. a. A spark --- The pickup coil is not functioning properly and may need to be replaced. Replacement requires removing the distributor so if you are in over your head. Get help on this part replacement. Please know your limits as the removal of the distributor,the pickup coil replacement and installation can really mess up the timing and cause serious engine damage. b. No spark----the module may need replacement. Checking H.E.I. System Connections: Remove the module and clean the terminals with emery cloth or a wire brush to remove any oxide film. Apply a thin coat of petroleum jelly (Vaseline) on all the module terminals. Make sure a small amount of silicone heat transfer grease ( AC Delco D-1920 or equivalent) is present on the module base. Reinstall the module and connect the leads making sure all terminals are seated with good metal to metal contact. Work safe and enjoy a good running engine at idle and road speed. Rich.

Does it restart right away? This is a good question that was asked. So does it start right up again or is there a delay and about how long before it restarts? The only item that comes to mind with the information you have offered, is a ground issue somewhere. Many of the parts of the engine are made of aluminum. The material has a different expansion characteristic then the steel screws and brackets used to mount many of the electronic systems and sensors to the engine. This difference can cause an intermittent connection as things heat up. That could mean a stripped screw connection, a screw that is not torqued properly or something like a wire connector that is not properly crimped to a grounding lug. This could be happening in your case, as you mentioned it has happened when the engine is running under a heavy load for an extended period of time. You mentioned that it quit when climbing in low gear and again at high speed and high RPM's. Was it a hot day when the second engine shutdown happened,while using the cruse control ? Rich.

The switch could be OEM used to lock or unlock the torque convertor. Also could be aftermarket add on. Real hard to know with out some additional information on the drive train and engine. Rich.

Crest Toothpaste will work-- price depends on if you have the original kind in stock or the size tube you buy. Slightly abrasive like the lens polishing compounds. Try a little on a small spot to see how it works for you on a slightly moistened soft cloth or paper towel. Should buff out just fine and take the oxidation and small pits out. Those nasty deeper ones are a different story. Refinish video link, just one of many. http://www.ehow.com/video_12246971_headlight-restoration.html Rich.

Hi Howard and welcome to the forum. Thinking you are referring to the wiring difference between the coach and toad light being different, with the coach having different lights for the turn signals and brake lights and the toad using the same light for the brakes and turn signals. Chassis manufactures generally wire the toad/trailer circuit connections in the rear curbside area. Could you post you chassis manufacture for the group? You might look at the Road Master tow-bar site. They have a number of wiring diagrams for interconnecting the coach and toad lighting, if you find a drawing that looks like the configuration you are trying to figure out. Copy and attach the link to you post. This way the members can look at what you are looking at and better resolve your issue. You did not mention your familiarity with using a volt meter and not all of us are good with wiring issues. I have been working with circuit wiring for years and always learning something from others posting on this group page and threads. Hope this helps. Rich.

I have run both tires and really like the XZE's for the steer tires. They track better in my opinion and when I pinned down Michelin; they said that because of the tread and sidewall design there might be less swimming or wander issues. I run the XRV's on the rear and have had no real issues with them. The biggest problem has been me cutting down 2 of them over the years. Sometimes those curbs jump sideways !! Rich.

Interesting! Worked on the parking crew and there was no special location for them, other then the handicapped attendees who where parked with that general group. I know there was one 5er parked with that group and only 6 trailers in total as far as I know. They where parked with the services they requested unless they signed up late and where parked where there was space available. I must mention that there was only a very limited number sights with full hookup or water. Second, if memory serves me correctly that party in the handicap lot got a courtesy battery jump for there tow-truck just like any of the other attendees that might have needed one. Rich.

By chance would Newmar or Airstream owners know the OEM supplier? HR's stock was picked up by some one in Oregon I think,but an owner might know that information. Rich.

Jack, I do not disagree with your thoughts. However, FMCA has some good perks that many of the others still do not offer. Also, family costs and other items limits them from stepping into a self contained unit. There are used units on the market,but not everyone is real handy at keeping them in operating condition with out paying for the labor. Having them interact with the existing members and finding other relationships that could be expanded once the nest is empty could not hurt. Rich.

Observation at Indy Rally. The real item missed by the Vendors and Dealers at the Rally was the time there displays and booths where open. I had the privilege of driving the Handicap Carts and making it possible for those members to get to and from these sights. However, there where attendees using day passes that wanted to visit the booths and coach displays after work, only to find them closing upon there arrival. Think that the commercial members should think about extending there hrs. at Rally locations close to or in larger metropolitan areas. They may have missed a number of sales and visitors interested in viewing a number of different coaches located in location. Just a personal observation while driving around and talking to those with there day passes. Rich.

FMCA Thoughts, Trying to think outside the box regarding the posts I have been reading on this thread. Maybe FMCA needs to start a subdivision called Family Camping Association FCA. With many of the same benefits offered the self-contained units? Using FMCA’s structure and regional layout, already in place to form Chapters that can include trailers and self-contained units for its membership. The different life styles could then interact to better relate to their chosen style of camping. The great outdoors being the common thread and allowing the existing FMCA members to belong to the new chapters, using their current dues structure. Combining them into 5 regions for area Rallies: North West, South West, Central, North East and South East and the experience of FMCA to form Chapters and Governing bodies. Should this prove viable, then the Governing Boards could work on other issues still unresolved regarding the acceptance of tow-able units at National FMCA Rallies. The Change in school year starting dates and numbers of school days now taking away the standard summer brake, timing is also an issue in setting dates for National Rallies that can truly be called family friendly. Just fuel for thought! Rich.

To Cancel, change a post heading or delete a post can only be done by the IT department at FMCA. Send a request to tmoning or maybe a phone call would work. Rich.

Well, just been reading some information regarding WiFi systems and this information came up. There is a possibility that a new WIFI band may come on line. It works in one of the old VHF bands that is not being used. The system will require different equipment to use the band,but it will have a rang of 100 miles / 160 kilometers. Have to see what the data rate will be and what the start up cost might be. Should some of you readers see some additional information post it and we can see where it goes. It looks like the FCC is on board, think they are looking for revenue more then user bandwidth;but it will be interesting to keep an eye on things. Rich.

Glad you found the problem. Thanks also for posting your results. More good information for all members of the FMCA family. Lift pumps and filters are cheep compared to high pressure injector pumps. Low fuel pressure can result in a very big bill down the road if ignored. Rich.

Bill. Welcome ! Supply any of the engine and transmission info you can. That will help to pin things down better. Rich.

Bill, For the headlights start by checking the connections at the headlight bulbs. There generally is a cluster of ground wires located at the front firewall outside and some grounds located under the dash area, drivers side. I have never worked on your model coach and I'm sure someone else will chime in with some more information. Rich.

85 Eagle, The change would effect some of the Into chapters that use the event for there annual meetings. It looks like there will be about 4 chapters meeting at the next National Rally and the number tends to be increasing. I know it is a new thing, but it will be interesting to see where it leads. Our local chapter has been allowing friends with trailers to attend the Rally and we have had some converts over the past three years. Once they mix with the other members, they are having a positive effect in regards to ownership of self contained units. Rich.

Tom, This page is not the most helpful when sending links and technical lists from my files. So, if you can read the codes, list them by number and I will type in the info for the ones I have on file. Hope the picture made it to you by the PM method. Rich.

Hi Tom. To Read engine codes on the Freightliner Chassis (The code must be active. i.e. Still showing as a Check Engine or other fault 1. Shut the engine off. 2. Hold the Engine Check switch down. Located down by the steering column. 3. Turn the ignition key to on. Both the Check Engine (yellow) and the Stop Engine (red) will come on momentary. If no fault is active, both lights will come on and stay on. 4. The Fault Code will flash in the following sequence. First, the Check Engine (Yellow) lamp will flash. Then the Stop Engine light will flash the error number's in sequence. There will be a short one or two second pause between each number. When the number has finished flashing, (in red), a yellow light will appear again. The three digit code will repeat twice in the same sequence. The lights flash each fault code out two times before advancing to the next code. To skip to the next fault code sooner, or back to the previous code, touch the switch labeled Idle Increase/Decrease . This is a center off rocker switch located next to the Engine Check switch. If only one fault is active, the same fault will flash again. List of ISB engine fault codes. http://www.diesel-se...ault-codes.html P.S. Tom I'm over my photo limit will try to send switch picture location to you by PM Hope this helps, let me know. Rich.

Tom. By using the Check engine switch and Idle set switches under the dash, left side of the steering column you can read the engine fault codes by way of the check engine light flash code(s) feature. Could you post your engine series? Rich.

When there is no ground to the fuel sender they often read full all the time. Look for an open or loose wire running between the fuel tank and the chassis frame. Rich.