dickandlois

Willis, Your Chassis should be a Chevy P-30 series. What you are looking for is the Shop Manual. I listed 2 possible sources for a manual. They are not free downloads. This information was not included with the coach when it was new. #1---http://seo.chiltonsonline.com/Pub/DIY/Product.aspx?ca=Repair&b=3618 #2---http://www.gearheadcafe.com/download_auto_repair_manuals/Download_Chevy_Truck_Manuals.html I will gladly process your request NOW and reply to you with the download link. Email me at downloads@detroitiron.com (include your year make and model). Hope this helps Rich.

Not something you can do without the proper equipment. The fact that it has been reset by the dealer more then once and is new could indicate a sensor issue. Thinking you have a 8.1 L engine. If that is the case, see if the service center will tell you what is causing the check engine light to come on. They should be reading a code number. Get the code number and post it for us to look at. I have a hunch what the problem might be, just want to get some information. Been wrong following my intuition just enough to want a little more information. Think exhaust system !!! Rich.

The Tow / Haul button is used to take the transmission out of overdrive in most cases. As mentioned there is an indicator light on the dash that informs you when the system is energized. Helps keep the transmission running cooler when pulling heavy loads. With it engaged, the transmission allows for more engine braking. In overdrive when you reduce the throttle, coasting resistance is reduced. Rich.

The other possibility is the ignition module in the distributor. They do fail and heat is there enemy. They can be working fine and fail. Had it happen on a trip years ago,when we slowed down at a toll both, running fine before that and it just died. A new module and off we went. A spare module in the coach might be in order. They do not cost much and it can save a lot of time trying to finding the proper one in some parts of the country. Rich.

One more thought regarding your starting problem. Do you see a heavy carbon build up in the exhaust pipe ? The air flow through the engine is critical and restricting that flow can cause a starting problem. You already have one strike against you with the lower air pressure, restricting the the air flow on the exhaust side could cause a starting problem. Have you ever removed the plug from the exhaust system ? This plug needs to be removed at times to clear the build up of carbon from system, check in your operators manual for the location an method to perform this operation. Remember you are opening the system before the spark suppressor and muffler, so be very careful where you do this. Hot gases and sparks can be discharged directly down starting a fire if any combustible material is under or around area. I mention this fact because you mentioned in one of your posts the the air cleaner was very dirty and changed. That could cause the engine to run rich increasing the carbon build up in the engine and exhaust system. Running the engine at altitude with a dirty air filter increases the chance of a faster build up of carbon. Rich.

Over all these are kind of dumb engines for lack of a better term. You have fuel,air and cranking speed requirements. and a hot glow plug to get fuel to fire and at altitude it is very critical because of the low air pressure, to get the cylinder compression cycle high enough to fire. Cranking speed is also very important. This has a direct relation to the compression needed to start the engine. Could you run a code test to see what the last code set was for sure? There are only 3 that are relevant at the time. Codes 23, 32 and 36 the other 23 plus mean nothing, because the unit will not start. With out any information, check the fuel line for possible leak allowing air into the supply line. Clean the battery contacts and the contacts at the generator so you get the maximum cranking speed. Could have a restriction in the fuel filter. The fuel pump could be an issue. If you have not started the unit sense it failed to start the last time it was a 6500 ft. There are no adjustments you can make with out removing covers and have some special tools. Diesel engines do not have carburetors to adjust. Rich.

Kevin, Just got to read your reply. Getting into fall up North and been working on some windows. When removing the plugs, pulling the wires off the plugs can be difficult. So remove the wire from the plug coil first by lightly twisting it to break it free at that point first. Then remove the wire from the plug. This allows you to add a twisting motion to the plug wire and the plug shield and lessen the chances of damaging a good plug wire. There is a Mylar sleeve inside each shield, brown in color. There is a spring at the bottom of the shields. You may need some real short extensions for the plug socket. Like a 1" in some spots and a 3" most of the time. Put just a little anti-seize on the plug threads before installing, even if you are not replacing them. 18 ft-lb is plenty of torque. Tighten the plug with the wrench to a snug point, then a honest push on the wrench. You might get about a16th. of a turn more. I have always used a 3/8in. socket for the job. Always put some dialectic grease on the inside of the rubber boots before replacing them. The 8.1 L is a good engine, been an issue with the crank and cam sensors on some production runs and it was built for power not economy. Some owners have informed me that they run middle grade fuel in them and the difference is price is offset by better MPG. That is a tough one because we all drive differently and with different road conditions. Rich.

Ron, Try this link and maybe a phone call will get you the needed antenna part(s). Might be a good start for you to check on a ladder. The link goes to there section on antennas and then you could see if they could supply or suggest a vendor for ladders. http://rvadenver.com...accessories.htm Rich.

I need to ponder the growl sound. Could you expand on if you where downshifted when the engine quit. The transmission fluid is pumped by the engine turning pump(s) in the transmission and with the loose of pressure due to engine shutdown the pressure loose could have made for a lubrication issue. Did you place the transmission in neutral while pulling over to the side of the road? When you have something like this happen, ones mind gets loaded with what is going on and how do I make a safe stop. You are not alone about not placing the coach in neutral under this situation. The engine quitting item that comes to mind is vapor lock. This is a fuel injected engine and they are less prone to vapor lock because the fuel is under pressure. Have you changed the fuel filters? The fuel pump pressure could be lower then required, but you do not mention any problems while climbing grades. Big dog mentioned reading the OBD codes to see if there is something stored in the ECM and is a good starting point. A complete check of the fuel delivery system would be a good starting point if there is no information stored in the ECM. You mentioned lacking information regarding the coach an this link might help to get some information. http://fleetwoodrv.c...nualsByYear.asp Rich.

This is how to recheck the last code the generator set. you mentioned a code 36. Did you check the oil level? Restoring Fault Code Blinking: The fault code stops blinking after five minutes. Press Stop three times within five seconds to restore blinking. Note that the last fault logged will blink, even after the condition that caused the shutdown has been corrected. ENGINE CRANKS BUT DOES NOT START (Fuel delivery, glow plugs or engine are marginal) Corrective Action: 1. Check fuel level. (Note: The genset fuel pickup is probably higher than the vehicle engine pickup.) 2. Prime the engine fuel system by holding the control switch down in its Stop position for at least 1 minute. 3. Check the engine air filter and remove any blockage (Page 16). 4. Replace Fuse F3 (glow plugs) if blown (Page 6). Brett and I mentioned or ask questions that relate to Glow plug issue, so check fuse 3. Do you have the manual so you can locate the fuse mentioned ? There is another fuse, that if blown will prevent the unit from turning over. You mentioned that the air filter was changed and that it starts at low altitude OK. There might be an issue with the air intake system beyond the air filter, if the old filter allowed dirt into the intake pathway. Rich.

Got more questions then answers for now. What year is the generator ? Will it start easy at a lower altitude? When its running and you drive to a higher altitude does it run OK? Other then the reduced output that altitude causes. How many hrs on the generator? Have the fuel and air filters been serviced? Hard stating when cold even at lower altitude ? Rich.

Kevin, You did not mention what engine you have. The O2 sensor voltage range must be correct if you are not seeing a check engine light. It should change the fuel mixture by changing the injector on/off interval in relation to the information from the MAP sensor and the O2 sensor. Dirty injectors can effect combustion efficiency. The unburned fuel smell and blacker tailpipe discharge. If you have access to a OB2 scanner, read the codes and if possible drive the unit with it connected to the OB2. You can then monitor the engine performance and note any abnormalities. The unit should give you any misfires and which cylinders, injector performance, mass-air flow and engine data in general. That will give you a baseline to start from. I would check the air filter, the spark plug condition. You might want to run some injector cleaner through the engine. A gray white buildup on the electrodes will indicate whether you have some oil in the upper portion of the cylinder(s). Large engines will burn some oil and that is not all bad. Rich.

Good Point Andy ! Reading your post, I went DUH !!! I just had two new tires mounted and it never came up. It's the little things that you miss. Thanks Rich. DUH.

More possible suppliers of parts needed for Coach repair. Used Parts added 9-29-2012: http://en.visonerv.com/cgi-bin/c/miscellaneousrvparts-accessories.pl? http://en.visonerv.com/cgi-bin/f/usedrvpartsrepairandaccessories.pl RV hardware Latches and Fasteners. http://rvadenver.com/latches_and_fasteners.htm Rich.

Jim, Do not know if this issue relates to your problem,but it might be worth looking into. Newmar Mountain Aire Diesel Push 2007 Consumer Complaints Fail date miles occurences Purchase date VISIBILITY 08/08/2008 4000 1 Heavy rainstorm, wipers running on high speed. passenger side wiper stops moving & impedes the drivers side wipers movement. visibility drops to nearly zero, and makes getting to a safe place to stop very difficult. rv manufacturer replaced the wiper motor/shaft & wiper arm as the splines were completely wiped smooth. happened again a year later. same scenario, same wiper. same damage to the wiper motor shaft splines & wiper arm splines. *tr Read more: http://www.faqs.org/car/newmar-mountain-aire-diesel-push-2007/#ixzz27vVmCA7s Rich.

John, Try this link. http://www.n8fan.net/item/2006-monaco-lapalma-owners-manual/ Rich.

Stock number 41974 Monaco/Winnebago Compartment Door Latch OEM part number. E521 $12.99 Link. http://rvadenver.com...d_fasteners.htm This is what your latch should look like. Check to make sure the latch is OK. Then check to make sure they move in and out when the handle is pulled. Also check the ajustment on the catches fastened to the opening around the frame area and that the catches are tight and set so the latch can properly slide behind them and far enough to keep the door(s) closed. The screws can loosen over time and the U shaped catches can move out of there proper orientation. Rich.

From your description, it sounds like there was or still is air in the system after the lines where replaced. The system is 4 years old and when you lost the fluid from the loose connection, there may have been some damage to the pump. I have lost fluid and lines. Had the pump motor rebuilt on one unit over the years. Rich.

Hi Wes, You could post the year and models you are considering. Know you listed the Revolution LE. Someone out there is driving them. Rich.

Mike, have a copy of the brake light wiring for a 2003 model year. I will try to attach it to a PM to you. Hope it helps. It attached to a Private Message so you should get the diagram. Try to check for a bad ground on the black wire. Red wire changes to a Black and White wire. Goes to Terminal strip 1 labeled Brake. the light should come on when you use the Engine Brake / Via the engine brake relay. The other path goes to the brake switch. These switches are generally part of the air brake valves under the coach brake pedal. The switch is part of the valve assemble and J2 circuit is dedicated to the Cyclops Brake Light. Rich.

Eric, The fact that there was a crack in the fiberglass over the cab kind of sets off a thought. You might want to run the Vin number through Car Facts. I do not know it they list Coaches. also, the fact that they repaired the crack, does not necessarily mean they checked for other issues. From time to time when dealers are driving units to shows, they get busted up for a number of reasons. They patch them up and sell as new and never mention this fact. I was at my repair shop this spring and saw one a driver from a dealership messed up real good, when he missed an off ramp and hit the divider head on. Needless to say it was not one anybody would want to buy, if they had seen all the damage. Just my 2 cents worth on this one. Rich.

Try this link and add your location information for the closest dealer. http://www.trojanbattery.com/Products/Marine-RV.aspx You could buy them on line, but you would have shipping fees. Rich.

Roger, the model and year of the Buick you mentioned is not listed for flat towing. This is a direct link to the FMCA, 4 down towing list for model years. http://www.fmca.com/motorhome/towing/204-towing-guides-towing-four-wheels-down Rich.

This link will show how to setup and change items displayed on the three line Light Bar Display used on some of the newer coaches. There have been some requests for this information popping up on some web pages. Hope this helps those that need the setup sequence on this forum. There are 2 pages of information, so use the slide bar on the side of the first page to see the Options page. http://www.search-do...r-ignition.html This link is to an Owners manual and covers a lot of information on different chassis, but particularly model years 2006 and 07. Chapter 2 covers the LBCU system in great detail. It is a little heavy, so the first link is easier to understand, but lacks in detail and deeper system diagnostics. http://www.rvtechlib...ners_manual.pdf Rich

Talley, If you do not have the manual for your Generator this is a link for the 4000 watt gas unit, should you be able to download it. Hope the information helps. http://www.cumminson...ls/981-0503.pdf Rich.