dickandlois

Actionjackson, I just thought of one more item. It may not be an issue, but if you have a problem starting the generator at altitude. Depress the start / stop switch on your unit to the stop position and hold it for a good minute, you will hear the fuel pump start. This is the prime operation for the fuel supply. Then depress the start side of the switch. Generally you will get a 36 code for a fuel supply issue. I'm going outside the box on this one. Keep us informed on the next trip. Rich.

Roger, This is the information I have come up with. Refrigerators: Frigidaire options Model LFHT1513LW, Model #: FFTR1513LW, Model #: FFTR1713LW, Model #: FFTR1515LW. Frigidaire FFPT12F3MW( This one has the door clearance mentioned) http://www.rainbowap...=shoppingdotcom Link listed for color options on the linked model. Whirlpool Top-Freezer. options. Model #: W8TXNGMWQ, Model #: W4TXNWFWQ, Hotpoint option. Hotpot refrigerator HTR16ABSRWW,046-86662-000 Edited 10-22-12 Hotpoint / GE option: Link. Depth is 28in. ?? http://products.geap...&Sku=HTH17CBTBB Could not find a Samsung unit that fit your size and space restrictions. The depth is the biggest issue, Working from the dimensions listed for the 1200 unit currently installed. The ability to open the door(s) to a full 90 deg. is difficult, found one that would allow the door to open to 90deg. The 52 in. you listed. Most have a open door measurement of 57in. The height and width fit the requirement for the opening you have, all will require some fitting or trim work to ether allow for additional height or slight differences in width. I did not check to see if ice-makers where available,that item was not listed in the information I looked at. If you have a MS-2000 inverter, then its a pure sine wave unit. A 2000 ME is a modified sine wave unit. The new electronics equipment likes the pure sine wave power. The modified sine wave will work on many of the systems, but if things get a little testy on the inverter and work OK on shore power. Think inverter ! Link to a nice article on the inverter(s). http://www.magnumene...ilent_power.pdf Been reading an article where a party that changed from a LP type refrigerator to a home style, turns off there inverter at night to conserve battery power. The temperature change over night has been minimal, with both the freezer and refrigerator temps holding well. An Roger, installing a 110 volt refrigerator will require changing the current outlet from a shore power only circuit to one of the inverter out put circuits. The model you have may have two 15 amp breakers or 1--15 amp and 1--20 amp. I would make the 20 amp one the source for the refrigerator. Hope this gets you off to a good start. Rich.

Roger, Thanks for the information. With 6 Lifeline deep cycle batteries you should have all the power you need, unless you do a lot of dry camping. Even then running the generator would bring them back up or better yet you could add some solar panels. Will look around for some options now that I have the model refrigerator. I can look up the information on the inverter also. We will be camping this weekend, taking in some of the Fall color. So give me a couple of extra days. Been in contact with owners that have made the change over. Samsung and Hotpoint units come to mind as options, but manufactures change models and the doors around. Freezer on the bottom or upright ? Rich.

While looking up information on Allegiance40x's Coach I found this information: Fleetwood RV, a leading manufacturer of recreational vehicles, announced that its American Coach line of luxury motor homes will offer the Lectronix Navion R5000 driver information system as a standard component in its 2008 Eagle, Tradition, and Heritage motor homes. Information is available on this system. Users Manual Link. http://www.lectronix...User_Manual.pdf This is a software operated system. http://www.lectronixinc.com/support/R5000.html Rich.

Could you list your refrigerator model number so I can get some dimensions. What size inverter do you have? Pure sine wave or MSW? And the number of coach batteries and type. I will look around if you like! Rich.

I miss read your first post. You mentioned there was power to the coach. Missed the no ac part. Do you have a circuit breaker in the bay where you connect to shore power? There is one made by Power Guard that was used and has a red rest button. Others look just like a regular circuit breaker, but have a red or white switch. They are in the line between the shore connection and the AC Circuit breaker box. Rich.

Did you check the battery voltage on the coach and chassis batteries? When you connected to shore power did the battery charger come on? If it did check the coach batteries over an hr or two and see what they read. There are a number of phantom loads on the coaches and if one does not turn off the disconnect relay. The load will discharge the batteries. My unit will discharge the coach batteries approximately 1.5 to 2 volts easily if I do not use the disconnect over a 20 to 30 day period. When the aux. switch is used the batteries remain at a good charge for 2 to 3 months. The chassis batteries do not discharge at the same rate, however they will discharge. Rich.

Terry, Drop about half of the water, we travel with only 1/4 to 1/3rd. of a tank of water when traveling. Also keep the holding tanks empty when possible. Diesels need about 50k miles on them to get broken in from my experience. The sweet spot on mine is 62mph. regarding torque to horse power. Your engine and transmission set up is entirely different then mine so the sweet spot will be a little different. Rich.

Brian, Many safety systems are already on the coaches. Make a list, like ABS, Daytime running lights and the ones your insurance agent wants and go over them with the seller, also get them to spend some time going over things in general. The where, what and how on things. No two units are alike regarding where things are located. Like disconnect switches, dump valves, 110 volt breakers, 12 volt fuses, entertainment center controls and switches, furnaces and AC operation just to mention a few. Rich.

We use a pair of Talkabouts made by Motorola, Think Model T5710. Had them for a good 5 years or more and they have worked real good with a jack to plug in a set of headphones and mike. They also work real good if the DW goes shopping an finds a deal she thinks I would like, just gives me tone when she keys the mike; when I'm out in the coach reading or tinkering with something needing a little TLC while we are stopped. Rich.

This solution might work until one finds out where and how to change the valve. Read the last entry. Rich.

This very problem was very apparent when the cruise was set on my unit. It is older the yours, but with the same problem. It turned out to be a problem with the Alternator voltage regulator(s). They put out a noise signature on the 12 volt wiring. Good test-- take a drive and see if the cruise control works when engaged. If it works fine, drive for a period of time. Disengage the cruise and then reengage it. Do you notice the same issue with the transmission? Note, at times it takes over an hr. for the problem to reappear. I run silveleaf and now monitor the 12 volts to see if the voltage remains stable, if it starts to vary and the little green indicator in the voltage window changes from green to yellow or to red, suspect the alternator. I would also have an issue with the speedometer jumping or varying and the tachometer reading would remain the same. Speed reading would change from 60 to 70+ or down to 50 or less. Just my observations. Rich. You could look in the photo gallery and look at my pictures and text regarding alternator and ignition issues.

Ed, Include you current water heater model number and if you have a Atwood model(s) in mind post them also. Rich.

That things have changed adds to the info. When you get a chance send me a picture or two by PM and I will do a little detective work and see if I can pin down some additional info. Add you make, model and year of the coach. Maybe I can get lucky. Rich.

There are two thermocouples on the water heaters when one has electrical power and LP. There is also a thermal fuse in the control board voltage supply line. ELECTRONIC IGNITION MAINTENANCE • The water heater comes factory-equipped with a fused circuit board, which will protect the circuit board from wiring shorts. If the fuse should activate, the water heater will not operate. Before replacing the fuse, check for a short external to the board. Once the short is corrected, replace the 2 amp fuse with a mini ATO style fuse. Do not install a fuse larger than 3 amps. • If the fuse is good and the unit is inoperative, check for excessively high voltage to the unit (more than 14 volts). • If the previous two steps did not solve the problem, check the thermal cut-off (FIG 3-I). The thermal cutoff is a device installed in the power supply line. This device will shut off electrical power and stop heater operation when activated. For example, if an obstruction within the flue tube should occur, as described in the Preventative Maintenance section, the burner flame/heat may contact the cutoff, resulting in a melting of the fuse element incorporated in the thermal cutoff. In order to restore power and proper operation of the water heater, the obstruction must be removed and the thermal cutoff must be replaced. LP thermal protection coupler can fail or just dislodge from the tank surface causing issues. The thermal fuse can fail do to high temperature,obstruction in the burner tube. Very high temps from sun light and LP heat are combined at times. The other is oxidation at the fuse terminals restricting the 12 volts from the control module. The other is a failure of the thermal switch controlling the circuit to the hot shot electrical heater. This one has happened to me. Checked the supply going to this switch and that going out.(Relay Failure) No power to the heater element, but good power to the input. Heater element resistance was good. GAS/ELECTRIC COMBINATION FUNCTION GAS OPERATION. When the gas switch is turned on, the unit will make three attempts to light. If for any reason there is no ignition, the unit will lockout and the red lockout lamp will illuminate. If the thermostat fails, the ECO will also lockout the unit, requiring resetting. Determine the reason for no ignition, correct it, and reset the gas ignition sequence by turning the switch off, then on. ELECTRIC OPERATION. When the electric switch is turned on, the relay at the rear of the unit will close and pass 110vac to the element. If the thermostat were to fail, the ECO will open and lockout the system. To correct, check the thermostat to assure good contact with the tank and reset the control by turning the electric switch off, then on. GAS/ELECTRIC OPERATION. The unit can be run in both gas and electric modes simultaneously for quick recovery. note: if the gas fails to ignite, the gas mode will lockout, but the lockout lamp will not illuminate since the electric mode is still operational. Should you notice slow recovery, indicating the gas is not working, turn the electric switch off. The lamp will then illuminate indicating a lockout has occurred on the gas side. Correct the problem and turn the switches back on. Rich.

action, said: "I'm still not sure I understand the glow plugs and how to access them." The glow plugs can only be removed by removing the generator covers. Not a normal DIY job. You can check the Glow plug fuse. Fuse number 3 is located under the access plate. There are 3 fuses under this panel. Location on page 6 of the manual. From the time stamp on your post, it looks like you started the generator in midday temperatures. Try to start it in the early AM (cooler the better )and see if it starts harder. Should that be the case an you have checked the Glow Plug fuse. There could be some issues that need to be addressed by a service center. The up side is you have replaced the filters and other service checks, that they would not need to redo. The amount of carbon you got out of the clean out does not seem like much, but in the wrong place it can cause problems. Your can now add a better understanding to your learning curve though !!! Rich.

By vendors are you thinking the sale of tires at the event or manufactures putting on a seminar? I have been to a number of the National Rallies and not seen anyone selling tires, but I have not needed to buy tires at the time. Rich.

Carl, Thanks for taking the time to reply with the fix for the temperature issue and the replacement part numbers. Takes some of the steepness out of other readers and posters learning curve. Relaxing and safe travels. Rich.

Yap, Greybeard ! penetrate or adhere ??? The Aluminum wheels on my Suburban are clear coated and when the tires where balanced, the wheel weights removed the coating. Result was very dull areas on the rims. I now have the wheels balanced with adhesive weights that are attached to the inner surface of the rim. There is a product called Nevr-Dull that will polish the areas, But it needs to be repeated to keep them looking good and it is a messy(meaning a black residue) and time consuming process. I'm thinking of spot cleaning the areas and prepping the the rims for a clear coat application. Link.http://www.nevrdull.com/ If you are interested. Rich.

This is a real challenge !!! Salvage Yard? The company is gone, but you might try a long shot for the sight glass. Should you have the dimensions of the tube, length, diameter both internal and external that would give the wall thickness and some good pictures showing how the ends are finished. You could call the Corning Museum of Glass in NY State. Open Mon to sun 9 to 5 east coast time.They have glass blowers that make items by hand and work at the Museum. Some of the old masters are still left. A call to 607-937-5371 an ask if they would be willing to make one. Like I said this is a long shot. The type of glass needed is one I can only venture on. If they still work with the Pyrex formula. This glass would have the characteristics that would work for a sight tube in regards to temperature range, strength and clearness. Just my thought regarding the type of formula. The only idea I have and if somewhere out in the group someone has the part specs and chimes in just maybe. I just never like to say no way no how. Might help you from going to the Blue OX. Rich.

Good catch Brett ! I did read the 5KW and that is gas size generator. However! the altitude ajustment is not listed for the HCJAA. only HGJAB and HGJAC. Onan makes a diesel in the 3k range then they go up to the 6 kw size. Rich.

Your model should have a high altitude setting on the carburetor, just a small lever on the unit that resets the fuel mixture on the engine for operation at elevation. Like over 5000 ft. It is pictured in the Owners Manual. Remember to reset it when you get back down off the mountain. Might want to have a post it note somewhere to remind you. Rich.

Yes in regards to the exhaust system. There are multiple o2 sensors and sometimes one of them can have issues. The code number tells you which one it is. One can buy a Scangauge as mentioned and monitor the engine while on the road. They plug into the OBD port and off you go.. Then the fun starts ! well if one likes tinkering. One needs to find if it is a connection issue, a sensor issue or a ground problem. There is one wire (Purple in most cases) and the ground is provided through the exhaust pipes, manifold and the bolts holding the manifold to the engine block. You would think that with that much steel and bolts a good ground could not be an issue, but as things heat up and cool down everything moves around some and the connection is lost. Engine sets a code and it stays set until the issue is corrected. The signal from the o2 sensor is one of the primary signals used to set the fuel / air mixture. An even if the signal level gos back to the proper voltage, an the ECM sets to proper mixture. The check engine light stays on. This is the main reason that garages will just reset this code. Having the code number in hand is good, because you can check it and see that indeed, it is the same code or if it is a different code that could list a real problem. Note ! many of the instrument panels have a display screen that tells you to change oil and other information, as well as a check engine light. The systems can detect it you have a lot of stop and go driving or over the road driving and turns on the change oil indicator using that information. Over the road millage will decrease the number of oil changes. However ! always check the oil before driving because the large engines use some oil. Rich.

Willis, Your Chassis should be a Chevy P-30 series. What you are looking for is the Shop Manual. I listed 2 possible sources for a manual. They are not free downloads. This information was not included with the coach when it was new. #1---http://seo.chiltonsonline.com/Pub/DIY/Product.aspx?ca=Repair&b=3618 #2---http://www.gearheadcafe.com/download_auto_repair_manuals/Download_Chevy_Truck_Manuals.html I will gladly process your request NOW and reply to you with the download link. Email me at downloads@detroitiron.com (include your year make and model). Hope this helps Rich.

Not something you can do without the proper equipment. The fact that it has been reset by the dealer more then once and is new could indicate a sensor issue. Thinking you have a 8.1 L engine. If that is the case, see if the service center will tell you what is causing the check engine light to come on. They should be reading a code number. Get the code number and post it for us to look at. I have a hunch what the problem might be, just want to get some information. Been wrong following my intuition just enough to want a little more information. Think exhaust system !!! Rich.