dickandlois

Wounder if just one fan is operating if you have two mounted on the back of the refrigerator. Rich.

Stop light fuse sizes in the range of 15 to 20 amps are quit common and as Herman mentioned the 15 amp fuse is about right when a circuit is drawing 12 plus amps. Regarding the heat issue. The bulbs get hot real fast if one holds them with there fingers. Power for one bulb is 25 plus watts and small 25 watt soldering irons heat things up fast also. What is the fuse rating listed on the fuse block or in the Ford Chassis manual? Remember you added two more bulbs when connecting a Toad if that is where the total of 4 bulbs comes into play. One could use LED bulbs for the brake lights ,if you are using magnetic or a light bar on the read of the Toad. The flasher will still work if the same lights are used for the turn signals. That would reduce the current draw on the circuit if you are real concerned about over loading the wiring with the added load. Rich.

Danny, Thinking a failed Thermostat. Unplug the cable connected to the heat / ac , temperature control board and see if the fan stops running. The cable looks just like the ones used for the phone head sets everybody used to have hanging on the wall. Got a feeling the clicking sound you hear is a relay on the interface board between the AC unit and the Thermostat. Let us know what the results are. Rich.

The engine one chooses is more a personal issue as Brett mentioned. The poster mentioned that he has a 04 or 05 model year at the time and should have first hand experience with the VGT Turbos. Regarding the DEF system on Diesel engines. The only information I have reference to and no direct records. They do not like long idle times, stop and go causes issues with the system. They have more problems with the system in cold weather keeping the system hot enough to not set check engine and loose of power. The solution has been to keep them running at a high idle and running in a lower gear to keep the exhaust system temperatures up. This temperature issue has also shown up with failed EGR valves failing due to soot build up in the valves. Have not had any feedback regarding over the road issues where things can run hotter. The engine builders get more real time and world information over the years and things should get resolved,but does one want to be one of there guinea pigs. Hope this limited information helps. Rich.

At Times a little dirt can build up in the orifice and that can restrict the flow of gas. One can use a number drill to clean it out> BUT DO NOT increase the hole size !!!! Use a smaller drill with your fingers or a pin vice to hold the drill bit and very carefully run it in and out about 3 times. Blow out any loose material with compressed air. Reassemble. Then set up the air mixture for the proper flame. Rich.

This is a link to get a copy of Fleetwood owners Manuals from 1974 to 2012. They are a free download in a PDF file form. http://fleetwoodrv.com/partsandservice/manualsByYear.asp Hope this helps those that have lost or never had this information. Rich.

Herman posted: "Rich, Sound like a neat tool. If you leave it in place too long you could find the short by the smoke. " Herman, One never gets smoke !! The bulb just gets dimmer or brighter. And when one finds the short no more light in the bulb or LED. So the magic smoke stays in the circuit and you know how hard it is to put the smoke back in. Rich.

Need to ask if your Coach has separate four way-turn signal (Amber Lights) and red brake lights? That being the case, I would look for a short in the brake light circuit. You can make a test circuit by installing a light bulb in place of the fuse using a blown fuse and connecting a light bulb across the fuse blades. Just drill a hole in both sides of the fuse, place a wire in each hole. Use a wire size close to the hole size so it contacts the side on the holes. Depress the brake pedal with something to keep it depress, work on the wiring for the brake lights and when the bulb goes out you have found the location of the short.. Good luck Rich. Patent Pending !!!

L.Wilson, Hope the file I sent you helps understand the system configuration and operation. Rich.

Interesting!! There are a number of coach owners that have the ISB series engines with 100,000 to 200K or more miles on the engines and this the first time I have heard of the block issue. Could you post the Year and Model of your Coach? Rich.

Some Coach owners are getting batteries from Wal-Mart or Sams. Club. The good thing is they would back them over a number of locations. I have been using Exide Golf Cart batteries for coach power and Chassis power. I have a supplier that gives me a good price. The big question is how much current capacity one needs or is willing to pay for and the type of cell you like. Rich.

The two sets SHOULD be separate. Only tied together when the Aux Start switch is engaged. The contacts of the aux relay could be welded to gather do to a high current draw in the past. NOT a common event thought. An auxiliary relay with constant current through the coil should be running very hot, should the switch contacts for the aux start switch be connected all the time by some kind of internal failure. Again this would be an odd failure. Brett mentioned reading the Hydrometer levels in all the cells to see if you have a bad cell in one battery. Changing the Alternator to one rated at 160 amps is common and many coach owners are going to 200 amp units. Rich.

Just One bad cell in the set of batteries can cause the discharge problem !! The alternator can recharge them only to a point and in doing so, can over time damage the alternator in a number of ways. The extra load just works them to death. Fleetwood came out with a change years ago, changing the OEM 130 amp unit to a 160 amp. unit for that very reason. Load and Heat. We keep adding more of a load to them over the years, so the alternators,inverter / chargers and battery banks have been sized larger. No Free Lunch. You now have a better understanding of the system and have moved up the learning curve all of us are still on. Manufactures are always changing and adding items to make the coaches safer, user friendly ( although more confusing when things act up) and they do not add some information to there user manuals that would be very nice to have, if not for all owners it would be helpful for service center technicians for a reference. Rich.

The key to the problem is still heat in my mind. You mentioned that the engine started slow, indicating a low charge state of the batteries. Everything was cold and the alternator started charging the chassis and coach batteries. This should happen in all the different model coaches if all fuses / circuit barkers, connections are clean and tight. When things start to heat up (Engine and Alternator) the regulator diodes can go into an avalanche state and fail to function properly. This lowers the charge current and that relates to a low voltage output. Did you look at the information I posted at this location? http://community.fmc...nator-problems/ First picture shows one of the style regulators used and this problem reoccurred (s) on my unit due to heat. Rich.

Do not know if you have a M-line instrument panel,but this might help. Page 7 TROUBLESHOOTING In-depth troubleshooting of an instrument panel is best done at the Actia factory/Authorized Service Center. Simple electrical troubleshooting can be done in the field by using test probes, multimeters and clip leads. +12 VDC can be supplied from a bench top supply or a storage battery. Careful checking of wire continuity, wire connections and terminations, sender function and gauge operation should be done to determine which component has failed. Symptom Possible Cause ___________________________________________________________________________ Gauges do not respond when ignition - Missing or broken ignition or ground wires is turned on. ___________________________________________________________________________ Gauge(s) read erratically - Loose connections at sender, gauge and/or connectors ___________________________________________________________________________ Speedometer reads too fast or too slow - Speedometer not properly calibrated to the correct pulse/mile or pulse/kilometer count. ___________________________________________________________________________ Speedometer does not indicate speed - Missing or broken sender wire(s) - Sender has failed internally ____________________________________________________________________________ Speedometer indicates speed, but is - Electrical noise from alternator, power and/or Erratic ground distribution panel studs, transmission ___________________________________________________________________________ External Odometer accumulates - Odometer is not programmed for the correct mileage too fast or too slow pulse/mile or pulse/kilometer count ___________________________________________________________________________ External Odometer display says - Odometer detected an internal failure during “ERR 1” power-up. (Odo will need to be replaced) ___________________________________________________________________________ Tachometer does not indicate engine - Missing or broken sender wire(s) Speed ___________________________________________________________________________ Fuel Gauge reads Empty all the time - Fuel tank empty - Sender wire missing, cut or broken - Sender broken, missing float, etc. - Internal failure of gauge Circuit board Assembly (No field serviceability) ____________________________________________________________________________ Rich.

I experienced some very similar problems on my coach. Everything mentioned in this thread was tried on a trip 3 years ago.Plus new belts and belt tensioner. My coach is and older model,so it does not have a clutch fan or hydraulic cooling fan set up. The problem turned out to be a failed thermostat. The valve spring retaining system failed. This caused the valve to fail to open or close properly. This restricted coolant flow and over heating problems when the engine was under heavy loads. Rich.

By chance do you have glow plugs. That being the case check for a blown fuse. Intake heaters are controlled by the ECM. so a corroded connection on the 12 volt supply wiring at any of the connections can reduce heater temps. Rich.

This write up covers failure issue of the EGR Valve, not directly to your question. Cummins ISB-’07 engines - EGR valve failure FTS Admin posted this on March 29, 2011 22:48 Product Affected-Units with Cummins ISB-’07 Engines and GM Duramax Diesel w/’07 Emissions Just to keep everyone as fully updated as possible on what is being seen with all these new engines we would like to make you aware of something learned during a recent training session. We have mentioned that the only real notable issue we have seen with the Cummins ISB-’07 engines is some EGR valve failure. We asked the question as to what might be causing the failures and we are told that it has been found to be excessive idling. Seems that in the EGR valve there are poppets (small ball bearings) which have seats they seal against and the carbon build up caused by idling has been found to collect on the “poppets” and cause the valve to fail prematurely. GM was contacted and they confirmed that they also have had issues with units which idle excessively. Ford currently does not have a diesel offering and we suggest that you just check to see if IC has recommendations on idling their engines. So if you must idle.....Use the “HIGH IDLE” – The added heat from using the high idle will help decrease the carbon build up and increase the life of the EGR valve. Rich.

The information you have supplied leads me to think that you have a defective regulator in the Alternator. The fact that the voltage charging level drops over time even with a fully charged battery, points to a regular diode failure. The current output is dropping. This would account for the 7 volt drop in output as things heat up. I have to believe that the shops that tested the alternator did not run a load test on it. Just a voltage reading when it was cool. Brett, is correct in regards to the connections needing to be clean and tight on all the batteries and at the alternator. Also check the grounding cables between the engine and frame. Rich.

Lead was removed from gasoline in 1975. When gasoline was first used, there was no lead in it. Lead was later added as an anti-knock agent. So using unleaded fuel should not be a problem. One can add a little top oil to the fuel to help upper cylinder lubrication and offset the effects of ethanol on the other fuel systems on the engine. Rich.

Brett, the sensor is after market not OEM. With the number of injector pump failures on the ISB engines due to low fuel flow /pressure, it has proven to be a great asset and safety net. The sensor is installed between the output of the last fuel filter and the injector pump: Bosh-44. When one of the filters restricts the flow of fuel the light (LED) starts to wink on and off as load increases. Changing the filters clears the problem most of the time. When that does not work and there are no fuel leaks in the suction side of the fuel system (weeping), its time for a replacement lift pump. I'm on my second one, as the OEM unit started to leak when the Ultra Low Sulfur Diesel came on the market and the second one had pumped enough fuel to put around 50K on the coach and and many of those miles where running in hilly country. I qualify as a Ridge Runner not a Flat Lander. Rich.

RV Chris. You did not mention the check engine light coming on and the fact that it kind of comes and goes. The ground connections sound like a good starting point. There should be a common ground lug under the dash area,this lug often has a large black cable that goes through the firewall and attaches to the frame at a point already mentioned. You live in a humid part of the country and some rust is very possible the area of coach to chassis Ground cable connection(s) Rich.

Pen Ray! I have changed the lift pump. I also have a pressure sensor that lets me know if the fuel pressure drops due to filters issues of lift pump issue. When new the pump pressure is between 15 to 20 psi. This is how the LED reacts when starting the engine. I currently have new filters and lift pump. Ignition switch on--- The LED lights and stays on even with the pump 30 second run cycle. Key on and bump the starter the LED goes out and it stays off. The LED flickers when one of the filters restricts the fuel flow or the pump output pressure has dropped. This is when I know to change filters. I then start the coach and take a test drive, should the pressure LED come on during a heavy load (I load the system by stopping at the bottom a a sizable grade) If the light stays out pump pressure is OK. If it lights, its time to replace the pump.. Pump cost is about 160.00 plus filter cost and labor if you have the work done at a shop. That price sure beats the price and labor charge of an injector pump. Over the years the setup has been dead on and I have not burned up the injector pump. The pump is cooled by the fuel going through it and the excess is returned to the fuel tank. Hope this helps. Rich There was a change in the Cummins lift pump number when the ultra low sulfur fuel came on the market. Edited 7-24-12, P.M.

Questions? Stops When: You put the coach in gear ? After you start moving or after you are on the road/ and how long? Do have a full gas tank? Any noticeable fuel leaks under the coach? How long has it been since the last Generator service? How many hrs. on the generator. Model number of the Generator? Model of the Rexhall Coach? Rich.

Sounds like a good plan !! Missed reading this thread earlier. One could get a scanguageD for diesels with both a 9 pin and 6 pin connector on it from camping world. That should read out your millage from the ECM and road speed; plus some other good information. Not bad for around $160.00 Rich.