dickandlois

Wounder if anyone who has stopped at the Loves truck stop has had any issues with staying over night as mentioned in Carl's post ?? Rich.

Just Got back from a road trip. You have basically answered the question. Everything works when you push the manual selectors for the side cameras and not with the turn signal switch. That leaves the circuit that is activated when you use the turn signal lever. The harness from the signal switch should have a contact(s) from the switch that feed power to the monitor via a hard wire circuit or relay. You mention that both left and right side cameras are affected, this leads me to be leave the problem is in the voltage supply wiring that feeds the monitor switches-- a loose 12 volt wire somewhere in the turn signal switch or in the harness running from the steering wheel to the (A) connector in the area around the steering column area. Check for a loose ground connection also !! There just might be a loose connection at the (or a connection) at the monitor its self. The cameras are working if when you select them manually they produce a clean picture !! Rich.

Try this link, not new parts,but they might have one or more. http://colawrvsalvage.com/ I will keep looking for another source. Rich

As they say Cool! Thanks Andy.. Rich.

Tim, have to go along with Brett on this one. I have many of the new toys installed in the old coach (We do like the way it works for us) and have not to date run into any problems with the newer type equipment running on the modified sine wave output. The old inverter / charger did need a new control board and that helped some charging issues and brought the inverter back to life. Rich.

Brett, cannot argue with your thoughts and observations. We have been there with the entire family for the summer. However, we did use the Marine Highway system to take the Coach up and this allowed for the wonderful adventure offer by the sea route and with the coach we could travel the interior at a pace totally controlled by us. Taking the Caseare Hy. from Whitehorse down through BC, still have a section of the Alcan to drive !! We really,really want to go back !! The kids all are saying, when you go, please give us a heads up because we want to return. So much for leaving them at home for the next one. Rich.

Allegiance, Loose or intermittent! Each camera has is own circuit wiring. Thinking its a switch issue. The cameras are activated by the turn signal switch in most cases. So if they both are acting up, is it the same frequency for both? The cameras are always on when the ignition circuit is active, the turn signal switch feeds power to the source input on the monitor thus selecting the side camera for the direction you are turning. You might be able to interchange the side cameras with the rear view camera input to see if the cameras are at fault or the switch for the turn signal feed to the monitor, or the soft switch(relay) inside the monitor that controls what camera is displayed on screen. Hope these thoughts help. Rich.

Bad Ground is possible. The Switch could also be an issue. Rich.

Couple of questions. You do not mention a toad, so thinking it happens on the Coach with nothing in tow. Do the turn signals work OK? Are the turn signals on the same lights as the brakes, or do you have amber turn lights and red brake lights? If only the brake light fuse blows and the turn signals still work, you have a dedicated brake circuit and it could be a shorted wire running along the frame or somewhere like the light socket. Even look under the dash for a bad spot in the cabling that comes in contact with the brake pedal and is shorted out only when you depress the pedal. Rich.

Terry, Just one more item to check. Have you pulled the bled off lanyards for the primary and secondary air tanks on a regular bases? Water in the system can mess up the valves and cause a number if air issues. The air drier filters should be changed on a regular bases. They can start to fail and sneak up on you. Rich.

Your model year coach should have a fuse box in the rear compartment next to the inverter / charger. Is that the one in the rear you are referring too? Yours should be in that area, but some models had an extra fuse block located up front to the right of the drivers station and mounted on the kick panel with 4 fuses in it. think they are 2- 20 amps for left and right turn signals and 2- 30 amp fuses for the marker and backup lights. Wish I could pin it down better for you. Rich.

Tally. sounds like you got one of the first models made in Canada when Linamar took over Onan. Glad you found some useful information. Rich.

Some of the splices in the cables that connects the camera to the cables that run from the rear camera to the dash have been poor from the factory. Rich.

Hi Terry! Wish they made all the systems the same,but not the case. The best help I can give. There is an Air Suspension Manifold Mod. with three 1/4in. air lines that supply air to the air bags. yellow is the color listed in my information,but it could be a different color, there will be 3 of them and they will be the same color coming from the manifold. one for each front air bag and a single one for the back two air bags. The forth line is white that air supply's line air to the manifold. It comes from the dump valve that drops the ride pressure. Down goes the coach. When one portion of the valve is powered by 12 volts. The other 12 volt feed, powers the jacks up section of the valve and allows air to go to the air ride bags, up goes the coach. The dump control valve is its name and job. (so you need 12 volts for up and 12 volts for down at the dump valve, going to 2 different points on the dump valve) Check for a good 12 volts and a good ground !!! Now the trick is to find the valve,not a clue where it would be in your case. Need to fallow that one odd colored line from the suspension manifold Mod. Must admit that My thought would be to look for the dump valve up near the front, because the supply air line is connected through one side of the park air brake switch, the one you pull out when parked. That supply line is also 1/4in. and is black in my information. Looks like the line colors change at the dump valve. Black input to White output to the manifold for air ride system. When you do your manual thing it may be close the the dump valve ? Hope that helps. Rich. Work safe its tight under there when the ride is up and even less when its down.

This location may have what you are looking for. http://colawrvsalvage.com/ Rich.

Think you could get a letter from manufacturer or maybe the service center has a service bulletin covering the repair. A copy should be faxed to your service plan provider, mentioning the fact that doing one side is unsafe. One would think that the insurance underwriter would not want to take a stand that could put them in a position that could expose them to legal action should further damage or injury occur. Rich.

Tally ! When you got the new carburetor,you needed engine information. Could you post that info. so we can look to see if an engine manual can be located. You mentioned smelling fuel ,installed a new carb. and the unit starts hard. Will run for 5 plus min. then shuts down. Got to have spark, because it runs well after it starts. The hard starting sounds like a fuel problem and you have replaced the carburetor. That leaves the fuel delivery system. Fuel line and pump. When you start the unit from outside using the switch under the access panel, do you see the LED light they mention in the manual? It should blink. My old Onan Generator had a mechanical governor link to control the engine speed,this was prior to the computer systems on the newer units. I need to find some more information about the engine, as it should have a fuel pump and fuel filter in the line somewhere. Also wondering if you may have a bad fuel line,that has a small pin hole(s) that is allowing air into the fuel supply line. This would starve the unit for fuel under load. It wants to run, we are just missing a piece of the puzzle. Think I found the manual for your model generator. Try this link. http://www.0y7.net/g...y1QYXJ0cy5wZGY= It mentions fuel pump and electrical troubleshooting info. on page 11. Rich.

Tally, first post mentions you have a 1997 model year coach. The information I have mentions Microprocessor Control with Diagnostics. With the owners manual there should be tests that you could run and get information like fault codes from the processor. I will look and see if I can find a manual on line that I can read in the meantime. Manual link. http://www.cumminson...s/981-0159D.pdf Check section #4 trouble shooting, reading fault codes. Oil pressure was mentioned and heat could be an issue that would shut down the unit. There are others issues like the line voltage and frequency that cause a microprocessor to shut down the unit to protect your 110 volt equipment. Also check the Ground cable between the generator and the Chassis. I also see you had a battery issue, with one exploding . Not good !!! Wash things down with water and then mix up some baking soda and water,about 1 tablespoon to 8 to 10 oz. of water is a good mix. Use ti ti wash down the area may need more then one glass of the mix. Make SURE the battery caps are on, it can be a little like a volcano if the two mix in large quantities !! Did the battery fail after the generator issue? ( after it shut down,, after running for 5 min. or so ??) Rich.

Ham, I have a Class A, but we have used the automated large truck washes at Truck Stops (Not all have this type wash bay). We kind of keep a eye on the truck stops to spot a large wash bay when the coach needs a little TLC from the roads and campgrounds you mentioned. I have them turn off the Roof Brushes so they do not damage the AC units and other items on the roof. They us just the soap and clear water rinse cycle. I have to agree that cleaning the roof as one gets younger is not what one likes to do. I do not mind using to longer wands in the tall truck wash bays to clean the sides. My shoulder and back are still up to that task. I still get on the roof twice a year to give it a good scrub. Hope the thought helps. Rich.

Think I must be sleep walking just noticed your post and reply. No power to the fan means a bad fuse,size 25 to 30 amps. Location can very ,but most often in the panel under or next to the drivers station. Could be out side on the firewall in front of the driver side. The most common problem when the compressor runs and the fan does not start is a blown fuse and that is caused by a failed fan motor mounted on the condenser coil mounted out side the coach. Underneath the front or in the rear in the area of the radiator. If the compressor is working,a good trick is to place a fan in front of the the condenser coil and if the cooling increases, the fan circuit is the one to get working and that should be it. Regarding the high pressure reading getting to high. That could mean the system is over charged. Question, gave out some information,but forgot to ask if the compressor starts when you engage the AC?? How in the world did the person charge the system if the compressor does not start?>?> Could you read the resistance of the fan motor? The other thing is, do you have a battery charger? you could remover the fan motor and power it up that way,if it does not run,thinking its gone bad. Then the trick is to fine the fuse or relay that powers the circuit. and find a new fan or motor. Rich.

Could you post the make of your slide out control system. Power gear or what? Also any information on the controls like model numbers, push button or key to operate the slide out. This might help pin down the mechanical parts causing the problem. Rich.

Hi Stan, Your coach is new enough to have a sub.fuse box that some of the chassis manufactures are now installing. The real problem is its not often mentioned in the information supplied with the owners packet. These fuse box / relay panels are OEM specific and can be located anywhere. The most common location is in one of the rear cargo pods. This is one style: http://www.cooperind...31000-32000.pdf This is a different version: http://www1.cooperbu...870f1f2519d.pdf You might give Spartan a call to ask about this type of panel. Think they would have installed it as this is a chassis wiring item. They may not have a clue as to where the coach builder attached it, but at least it might help you get an idea of what to look for and they might say its in the rear or front of the chassis wiring. There is a tool called a circuit tracer that you could use if you could find one. It puts a tone on the circuits ( like the center connection of the backup light) then using the receiver one can fallow the tone to its relay point or the fuse location. Internet service and installers use them to fined lost circuits in among all those wires. Not sure where the Reverse light switch circuit connection is for your model Transmission. Hope this helps. Rich.

One could get the unit recharged. The first issue would be to make sure the compressor is working. That would be the most expensive part of the system. Then you would need to find a HAVC shop with the proper materials to tap into the AC lines and install access ports on the high and low side lines. The rest would be just the same as charging any other AC system. Most use R22. This is a link to a manual for your listed Coleman unit. http://www.rvcomfort.com/pdf_documents/1976323_copy8.pdf Look over the information and let me know if there are any other questions I might be able to answer. Rich.

Barb, The only one that comes to mind after reading your post is to slowly load the generator and not have both AC's turned on at the same time when the generator is started. This puts a very heavy load on the generator, in turn the belts will SLIP and heat up. Think that you might get your trips in if you watch the load placed on the generator. Then when you get home and some time have the belts replaced. The other problem the high current load causes, is it can damage the contacts on the load relay when it engages. This adds another repair and expense. Rich.

The manual does mention that the ATC circuit protection fuse will blow if the batteries are connected wrong,that is the fuse I was referring to in my last post. Most shops are not real familiar with circuits using Inverters. It is real easy to reverse a connection or two. You might share the information in the manual with the Shop that did the work, so they can learn from this issue. Rich.