dickandlois

It is almost a full time job keeping up the information on the OEM suppliers as they are bought out ! and merge with other companys Thought I would share this information. This information is no longer supported http://www.hainzl.at..._02-2009%20.pdf http://www.turollaoc...re/l1022491.pdf Side cooling systems are very common and these links might be of help for getting them serviced and or repaired. This is the up dated information I have found or have on file https://www.informationvine.com/index?qsrc=999&qo=semQuery&ad=semD&o=603917&l=sem&askid=628fe355-5d54-472b-8973-c12e2894edc3-0-iv_gsb&q=danfoss company&dqi=&am=broad&an=google_s Second link that might help find info or replacement https://www.informationvine.com/index?q=Danfoss+Hydraulic+Motors&qo=relatedSearchNarrow&o=603917&l=sem Sauer-Danfoss Pump information, you will need and copied from the OEM pump installed. Sample information only Date code: 09ddcd3 Type code: 551101303210 Note! Each pump is custom and setup to match the OEM specifications. However, this is the current information. When the pump information listed was used, when contacting them – a Replacement pump that setup to match the OEM unit - shipped in about 2 weeks. Contact Us Hydraulic.net, LLC www.hydraulic.net 6980 US-1 #107 St. Augustine, FL 32095 sales@hydraulic.net Phone: 630-543-7630 Toll Free: (877) 574-8197 Fax: (630) 543-7631 Contact Us To fill out a Quote Link https://hydraulic.net/contact/ The PDF Files are ones that where saved before all the latest changes in the corporate structure Rich. Danfoss_Technical_information_11040345_SGM2Y_and_SGM3Y_Fan_Drive_Gear_Motors_TI_REV.AC_02-2009.pdf SGM2Y, and 3Y hydraulic motors l1022491.pdf

Ron and Dee, We spent an entire summer in Alaska with the kids. The best time we have had on an adventure! We went by ourselves. Nowhere to be on any one day. Long drive from the East coast, up through B.C. to Prince Rupert, a nice boat ride for the coach and family to Skagway and lots of white lines to run over. Alaska is still calling us back and we hope to do it again, now that all the kids are out of college. This time we hope just the two of us will take the trip. The kids have other ideas. They are all interested in going again. LoL. R.M.

Rodney, Disable the 12 volt feed from the Batteries ( the common ground is a good point) Then look behind the fuse panel for a loose connection. Wonder if there is a auto resetting fuse between the power panel and the coach batteries. Posting your Coach's model and year might help pin it down faster. R.M.

Follow up! From reading the specifications on maintenance, the hydraulic fluid and filters should be changed every 5000 hrs. When the pump was replaced some dirt might have gotten into the system and is now plugging the fan motor line/solenoid.

RM1953 ! You listed this information in your first post. The fan motor is a Sauer Danfoss type 551101096170 built in July '04. This looks like it’s an OEM build manifest number. Could or can you find out what the order number is for the part? I know I'm close because some of the number sequences match. If you can provide some numbers stamped into the part might help. With just a little more info. Then there could be many more options,like salvage yards,bus parts suppliers,and even rebuild / repair shops. With the information forwarded to you in the PM. The repair kits are out there,just have to know what parts and kit is needed. From the information I have uncovered, there are two different models for the cooling motor, with a long list of mechanical differences. I have to ask a few questions? Is the motor free turning / can you spin the fan blades with very little effect? Have the service Techs checked the 12 volt control valve to make sure it is working? This could be done by feeding 12 volts to the power connector on the control valve. Should there be a click or some sound generated, then see if with the engine running and a means for powering the valve if by chance the motor starts or tries to spin. D.M.

Clean livin ! just sent you a private message. R.M.

I have used a product called Super-Lube to keep items free. Spraying the Exhaust gate, Exhaust brake, VGT and areas where moving parts get very hot. I do this about every 6 months just to keep things moving. The lube has a temp. Range of -45 to +450 degs F. It’s also! The only lube that I have found that is food safe for use on oven door hinges and other food areas where there is heat. D.M.

AJ ! 1996 is when the OBD system came into being. So your 94/454 should time up by using the number 1 plug, marking the Harmonic Balancer scribe mark with a soap stone to make it easier to see. The hard part is to get a good look at the timing mark bracket mounted on the timing chain cover because of the shroud! The setting should be 4deg. before TDC. Forgot to mention that one needs to remove the Vacuum line going to the vacuum advance on the distributor or the timing will not set correctly. Remove and plug this line. My Bad !!! Edited 5/26/12 The timing should be the same for all big blocks 392-502. I always checked the timing mark / setting before I moved distributor, always good to have a reference point. Check the vacuum line to the distributor for leaks and that the counter weights are free to move under the cap. D.M.

Brett ! This is the only additive that might come close,it is not good for removing water though. Might be worth a look. https://www.denniskirk.com/star-brite/star-tron-enzyme-diesel-additive.p314208.prd R.M.

This is a link to a sorce for the icemaker if needed. http://www.thefilterstoreonline.com/rv-icemaker.html R.M.

After reading the first post in this thread, one has to consider how they are using their coach. If one is traveling most of the time, then the boiler-type units will last longer. However, if you are full-timing and parked for an extended period, changing out this style of refrigerator in favor of one of the home-style units might make a better option. A number of the newer model-year coaches are coming with the home-type refrigerators. I have not taken the time to study the effect of running these units on a modified sinewave invertor for an extended period of time. Should you have standard shore power, it’s not an issue and the same goes for the full sine wave invertors. From the information received to date from those who have changed out there refrigerators, they are very happy and their refrigerators staying cool enough to keep everything cold and frozen until they get to the next location. No real information on the number of times they open and close them, though. There are always tradeoffs; with the number of fires, many feel much better with the home-style units. Just a few thoughts for the day, on this issue. R.M.

That leaves a fuse, a wire that has come loose or just corroded. I did forget to ask if the coach brake lights where still working. If they are not working, I think there is a fuse block in the front of the HR’s. Should the coach brake lights be working and the toad brakes not work, your model year is around the time the chassis manufactures started putting a fuse / relay box in the harness going to the hitch. Locating it might be the hardest part. The relay / fuse box is generally gray in color with a clear cover on it, located in one of the rear pods. ****.

SECTION 12 ICE MAKER OTHER 12.1 WATER FILL ADJUSTMENT The correct water level in the mold is important for the proper production of ice. The size of the ice cubes depends on the amount of water which enters the mold. The cubes should be approximately 1/2" wide, 3/4" high and 2-1/2" long. If the water overflows in the mold, first check to see if the ice maker unit is level in the appliance. Next ensure that the appliance is installed level in the RV. If there is still water overflow, adjustment of the water fill screw is necessary. Locate the screw on the ice maker assembly. Turn the screw as necessary toward the "+" or "" side. One full turn of the screw will make an 18cc change in the amount of water. DO NOT turn the screw more than one full turn at a time. If the water level is too high, it can also cause the ejector blades to become frozen in the ice. Follow the procedures above to correct the problem. WATER FILL ADJUSTING SCREW D.M.

Did the Turn signals continue to work? There could be a spot where the wire harness is contacting the frame, a point where the insulation was rubbed off! D.M.

Thinking that water is freezing in the water supply line where it enters the ice maker. When the water valve colses the water remaining in the supply line should drain down in to the tray area. Have you tried to reduce the size of the ice cubes? The problem could also be caused when the coach is tiped / lower on the side of the back of the refriderator,this could alow water ice to slowly build up and block the filler. D.M.

The followling is information on how the cooling units work. Cooling Unit (How it works) Click here for bigger graphic (49k). The graphic below represents a cooling unit in full operation. There's a lot to cover here, so you might consider printing this page and going to the bigger graphic to follow along. The graphic may seem a little confusing at first, because quite a few things are happening at once. But, when broken down to a section at a time, it is a fairly simple system. Boiler. A precise heat (electric heat element or gas flame) is applied to the boiler to begin operation. Heat is transferred from the outer shell of the boiler through the weak ammonia solution to the perk tube. This style of boiler is referred to as the "new" style boiler. The "old" style boiler had the heat element holder and chimney connected directly to the perk tube, without the benefit of the outer shell to slow (not prevent) over heating in situations like being run out of level. The perk tube is provided with a rich ammonia solution (a high percentage of ammonia to water) from the absorber tank. When heated, the ammonia in the rich ammonia solution begins to vaporize (sooner than the water would) creating bubbles and a percolating effect. The ammonia vapor pushes the now weakening solution up and out of the perk tube. The ammonia vapor (gas) leaving the perk tube goes upward towards the top of the cooling unit, passing through the rectifier. The rectifier is just a slightly cooler section of pipe that causes water that might have vaporized to condense and drop back down. The water separator at the top of the cooling unit (only on some models) prevents any water that might have escaped the rectifier to condense and fall back. After this point, pure ammonia vapor is delivered to the condenser. Meanwhile, back at the perk tube, the weaker solution expelled from the perk tube by the ammonia vapor drops into the weak ammonia solution surrounding the perk tube. Here, a little more ammonia vapor is generated and rises. The weak ammonia solution flows down ward and through the outer shell of the liquid heat exchanger, where heat is transferred to the rich ammonia solution on its way to the perk tube. The weak ammonia solution then flows to the top of the absorber coils and enters at a cooler temperature. Condenser. Ammonia vapor enters the condenser where it is cooled by air passing through the metal fins of the condenser. The cooling effect of the condenser coupled with a series of step downs in pipe size forces the ammonia vapor into a liquid state, where it enters the evaporator section. Evaporator. Liquid ammonia enters the low temperature evaporator (freezer) and trickles down the pipe, wetting the walls. Hydrogen, supplied through the inner pipe of the evaporator, passes over the wetted walls, causing the liquid ammonia to evaporate into the hydrogen atmosphere at an initial temperature of around -20º F. The evaporation of the ammonia extracts heat from the freezer. At the beginning stages, the pressure of the hydrogen is around 350 psi (pounds per square inch), while the pressure of the liquid ammonia is near 14 psi. As the ammonia evaporates and continues to trickle down the tube, its pressure and therefore its evaporation temperature rise. The liquid ammonia entering the high temperature evaporator (refrigerator portion) is around 44 psi, while the pressure of the hydrogen has dropped to 325. Under these conditions, the evaporation temperature of the liquid ammonia is +15º F. Heat is removed from the refrigerator box through the fins attached to the high temperature evaporator. The ammonia vapor created by the evaporation of the liquid ammonia mixes with the already present hydrogen vapor, making it heavier. Since the ammonia and hydrogen vapor mixture is heavier than the purer hydrogen, it drops down through the evaporators, through the return tube to the absorber tank. Absorber. When the ammonia and hydrogen vapor mixture enters the absorber tank through the return tube, much of the ammonia vapor is absorbed into the surface of the rich ammonia solution, which occupies the lower half of the tank. Now lighter, the ammonia and hydrogen mixture (now with less ammonia) begins to rise up the absorber coils. The weak ammonia solution trickling down the absorber coils from the top (generated by the boiler) is "hungry" for the ammonia vapor rising up the absorber coils with the hydrogen. This weak ammonia solution eventually absorbs all the ammonia from the ammonia and hydrogen mixture as it rises, allowing pure hydrogen to rise up the inner pipe of the evaporator section and once again do its job of passing over the wetted walls of the evaporator. The absorption process in the absorber section generates heat, which is dissipated. The Fuse. The fuse on many cooling units and in this graphic is a steel tube, the end of which is filled with solder. On many Dometics, the fuse is built into the charge plug located at the absorber tank. The plug is hollow and filled with solder. In either case, the fuse is the weak link of the system. If pressure inside the cooling unit were to rise beyond a reasonable level for some reason, the fuse is designed to blow and release the pressure. This would make the cooling unit inoperable, but is necessary for safety. Out of Level. If the cooling unit is operated in a stationary, out of level position (on any heat source), it will eventually become permanently damaged. Before we go any further, there is one more ingredient inside the cooling unit: sodium chromate. The ammonia solution inside the cooling unit is a mild corrosive, and sodium chromate is mixed with the ammonia solution (ammonia and water) to neutralize the corrosive effects of the solution, protecting the inner pipes of the cooling unit. Since the cooling unit depends greatly on the effects of gravity for moving the liquids and gases inside, running it off level and stationary causes these liquids and gases to collect in unwanted areas and not be recycled back to the boiler. The liquid level inside the boiler begins to drop and become weaker. Eventually, the water in the ammonia solution begins to vaporize with the ammonia and leave the boiler. At some point, the boiler becomes dry and the temperature rises rapidly inside. The sodium chromate which was once in solution with the ammonia solution is left behind and begins to burn and permanently change state from a powder into a sort of sludge that will eventually plug the perk tube. If left to cook long enough, the sodium chromate will become as hard as steel. If the cooling unit were "saved" from this out of level condition by being leveled, or the heat source turned off, any sodium chromate that had changed state would not return to a powder in solution with the ammonia solution. This makes it possible to ruin a cooling unit a little at a time. The new style boiler (see above) helps to prevent this cooking of the sodium chromate, but it can still happen. More often than not, however, the liquid inside the outer shell of the boiler vaporizes, causing the pipe that makes up the outer shell to become super heated and crack, thus ruining the cooling unit. So, although the double boiler effect of the new style boiler may help prevent the perk tube from becoming plugged, it only gives the user a little more time to recognize and correct a problem. When traveling down the road, the liquids and gases inside the cooling unit are sloshed around and don't collect in unwanted areas, making it all right to travel with the refrigerator on. D.M.

Moodier! Just got to read your post ! My first coach was a Class C and it was on a Ford chassis. I had the same problem when fueling up. The problem was in the vent line, there was a dip in the rubber line that was lower then the fuel level after the tank was 3/4 full. This allowed fuel to run into the vent line when full,the fuel would block the vent and incoming fuel would blow back and trip the filler nozzle, so fulling WAS A Pain. Got to believe you have the same problem,getting to things connected to the filler area is not easy. You mention that you unit has vapor canisters in this vent line. I'm thinking that fuel is traped in them and blocking the venting air. Do not recommend you do this on a permanent bases, but if you can get to the rubber vent line that is connected to the top of the gas tank(it will be right neck to the filler line) and remove it,Then see if it fills much faster. This will cause your check engine light to come on, if you chassis has a closed loop system with a a purge cycle for the vapors. Like the loose gas cap issue. Hope this points you in the right direction. D.M.

William ! I was referring to the check engine code switch that is located below and to the left of the steering column. This allows you to read any engine ECM codes that have been stored. They are 3 digits long and the yellow light will blink, short pause, Red light will blink, short pause, yellow will blink. After another pause the sequence will repeat if there is only one code present. If there are more codes stored the ECM blink sequence will change. Like 171 pause 171. More than one code. 171 pause 224 pause 331 pause and so on. or Yellow, Red Red, Red Red Red Red Red, Yellow. And so on. Do the Check engine lights come on when you first turn on the key? I have pictures of the ignition SW assembly used on my unit, but I'm at the limit for the number of pictures I can post unless I do not completely understand how to get more of them up loaded. D.

I got to ask what kind of coach,and what kind of propane tank. I have made up an adapter to fit my system that allows me to connect one of my small Argon / CO2 tanks to the propane feeder line, to test for leaks when the system needs testing with no propane.

The VDU module is causing the problem. Fleetwood / Freightliner generally located under the doghouse curb side. They have a cold solder connection issue.

Look at the shocks and the mounting points for any indication of wear and traces of oil on the cylinders. Then have a OTR truck center check the torsion bar front suspension and the rest of the suspension while its in the shop. The air bags should be OK. Have the ride height checked also. The prior owner may have been heavy loaders.

The thing is unless the latches are broken that alone would not cure the problem. The plastic ones will ware faster and this fact would lessen the sealing ability because of the additional play. that being the case would not explain the doors poping open.The metal latches are the same physical size and it would be a job and cost that in the end may verywell not solve the problem. The only thing I can invision, is there has to be something out of spec. All of them acting the same way is just hard the get a grip on. I could under stand a number of them having a problen IF a side had been damaged at some point,,but even then that would reguire the entire length of one side. That would of been one big crunch. I think we need to look at this from a different point of view. Ok all the cargo doors pop open when on the road. The latch pins should extend out and be about even with the edge of the cargo. that is as far as you can extend then and still open the doors with out catching on something else. The catches should line up with center of the pins. An example--- IF the pin extends out 3/4in from it mounting and the latch is 1/2in. wide then there would be 1/8in. at the inside and 1/8in. on the outer end of the pin beyond the latch bracket. Granted this would be the perfect placement,but that never is going to happen in the real world. The more of the bracket the pin can extend under the better up to the point,where when you pull on the handel(s) to open the cargo door; they need to clear to alow it to open. Each pin has a spring that forces it outward and when you pull the handel you compress the spring thus clearing the latch bracket. There are two latches per door and one could have a bad spring,but the other side will force its pin outward and the other pin will be forced out with it. If your door have only one pin and the spring is broken. Then vibration will work the pin out from under the latching bracket and pop goes the door. The problem is that if the door is locked, then the handel if in the down / in the travel position and locked it should stay closed. I have no history of the coach and if a prior was like a gorilla, then all I can say all bets are off. I do need to keep my latches tight and the pins lubed,along with the lock cylinders to keep things working. Hope the thoughts help.

The Fact that All The cargo doors come open is a new one for me. I have had the sticker / catches loosen up and need to be retightened. Also had a spring in the latch or one of the plastic latches break, but even with one of the latches not functioning, the cargo doors have stayed closed. The clips that keep the doors centered in the opening have broken, this allows the door to move off center and a latch slip out of the catch and the door did not open. I can see where one or two of the doors could be affected while on a trip. This problem thread should be interesting to follow.

I copied over some information in regards to the vibration. The last item is what you described and will not really help, but might be worth making a copy for your records. ****. Ride Glossary of Terms and Diagnostics • Bounce - Bouncing may occur in the front of the coach, the rear or both. Drive the coach on a rough or uneven road surface to determine if this condition exists. • Delayed Steering Response - A slow gear ration will produce a slow steering response. This problem may also be caused by rear axle side-shift. Evidence of delayed steering response may be produces by small steering wheel adjustments at highway speeds. • Dog Tracking - This is where the rear wheels of the vehicle do not follow or line up with the front wheels. The coach appears to be moving forward in a crooked fashion. Drive on a straight road. Look in the side mirror. The distance between the front wheel and the highway line will be different than the distance between the rear wheel and the highway line. • Harsh Ride - The vehicle rides stiff. You can feel every crack, rut or bump in the road. This condition should be obvious to all passengers in the coach. • Noise - Noises can come in many forms: rattles, clunks, tinny sounds, solid noises, etc. Are those noises produced while driving over small bumps or large potholes? Take another person with you and try to duplicate that noise so you can determine where the problem exists and how it may be resolved. • Noise - Noises can come in many forms: rattles, clunks, tinny sounds, solid noises, etc. Are those noises produced while driving over small bumps or large potholes? Take another person with you and try to duplicate that noise so you can determine where the problem exists and how it may be resolved. • Porpoising - The coach will teeter-totter in a front to back movement. Go over a freeway overpass where the pavement rises suddenly or over a gradual dip. This test will demonstrate if this condition exists. • Pull - The coach drifts to the right or left when driving. The driver feels the steering wheel pulling to one side or the other. • Returnability - As a turn is made, does the vehicle naturally come back to center? As you make a gradual left or right turn and let go of the wheel, if the coach does not come back to center, then there is poor returnability. • Road Wander - With this condition, the coach "has a mind of its own". It wants to move left or right even if the driver is driving straight. The coach also wants to travel its own way after hitting ruts. Keep the steering wheel straight ahead and see where the coach goes. Hit a rut and determine how the coach reacts. • Rut Tracking - The coach follows the grooves worn in the road (created often by 18-wheelers) or where ridges are created when an asphalt surface meets a concrete road surface. The coach wants to continue in the direction of the ridge or groove and it is difficult to correct or change the path of the coach. Find a similar road surface indicated above and test the vehicle for this response. • Steering Play - This indicates the amount of free play in the steering wheel. When a driver moves the steering wheel to the left or right, there is little immediate response. Turn the steering wheel back and forth and determine if little reaction or turning is taking place. • Sway - The coach leans, sways or rocks in a side to side motion with a distinct feeling of top heaviness. This may be presented when doing quick lane changes, cornering or entering unlevel driveways. • Tail-Wagging the Dog - This is where the rear end of the coach tends to sway or slip to one side or the other. Making sudden lane changes or windy conditions often produce this problem. Small steering corrections may also produce tail-wagging the dog. • Vibration - There are two kinds of vibration: steady or pulsating. The key is determining the source of the vibration. Is the vibration or pulsations coming from the steering wheel? Through the floor? Specific to certain speeds? It is like solving a puzzle.

William ! The Tack signal comes from the Engine ECM. The TCM and ECM are interconnected ( sharing information). My first thought, since you did not mention any check engine light, is cabling and connections to and from the modules. You have been setting for some time. there is the possibility the some little critter has or is chewing on the cable harness somewhere. The other thought, is some oxidation on a connector at the ECM / TCM. My first checks would be the area of the ECM as this is the starting point of the tack signal. The Crank sensor signal should be present at the ECM because the engine is starting OK. There is a double headed sensor in the trans. that sends signals to the speedometer and cruse circuits only. Not a tack signal>>> What Engine does you coach have? I have some information on the circuits for the Cummins Engine ECM. ****.