dickandlois

Try This Link. http://www.milepost.com/ Check the bottom of the page. It list the High / Low prices for Alaska, AB and BC each day by town / location. Also check into Reservation locations and prices. Rich.

campcop, The only times I have run into this problem was when the king pins or ball joints where binding. This problem was an issue from day one. The shop managers assured me that after some miles where put on the truck it would correct itself. I drove it for 2500 miles and returned for some required brake in maintenance. The mechanic did the required service and took the truck for a road test. He came into the waiting area and asked me if I was experiencing any difficulty with the steering, well it does drive very different from other trucks I have owned. What do think is causing the problem,I ask. Well! Think it needs a complete front end check and then we will know. After a short time the Shop Manager came in and explained the the man was a new mechanic and that I was told that it was in my head. Short story, after many letters and visits the entire front axle assembly was replaced. Problem solved. The second case was a binding King pin on the right side only and after that work was done it never had another problem. You should have a full warranty, as the unit is brand new. Sometimes one must keep pushing to get things fixed. Taking it to a good Ford Truck Garage and having them check and drive it on the road may be needed. An insist that you ride along so you can see how the mechanic handles the problem. After a good 30 minutes of driving you will be very aware of how he is coping with the wandering problem. Rich.

Pat, Sounds like the material in the hose is braking down. Do not know how old it is,but to save other problems with the BBQ just replacing it would be a good idea in my mind. I did read an article some where on this problem,but for the life of me I can not remember where. Get as case of CRS from time to time. Rich.

John, Reading your post and Brett's response. Sounds like Brett's suggestion of checking all the connections in the starter area and the connections at the positive terminals at the Chassis batteries is in order. The ground connections between the engine and frame should be clean and tight. How old is the coach? The other thought is the starter brushes are causing a problem. You mentioned that it tried to turn over,that should eliminate the starter solenoid and relay. When you tried to start after the first time and it tried to engage,has the starter circuit made any clicking sounds? Even with the batteries in a weekend condition the starter circuit should react even if the engine does not turn over. Should this be the case, then if you have a soft-blow hammer or even a block of wood to rap the starter a few times, even with someone turning the key might engage the starter. They can start this way so work safe and do not jump to far if the engine starts. Should it start,it tells me that the starter brushes and / or armature have issues. The starter will need to be rebuilt or replaced. This trick works a few times,but it will not start after a few times even with the banging. Hope this helps! Rich.

Herman, We took the ferry to Newfoundland back in 73. They put Trains,Trucks and cars on them. I did not see them load any planes !! Think it took about 2hrs to load the thing. Then a 7 to 8 Hr. ride to the Island. We just stayed in the lounge area,did not get a room. They have recliners that one can take a nap in if you like. The main roads where not to bad. The farther off the main drag, they changed to dirt,but that was 39 years ago. The bigger the Coach the higher the price, so if your going for longer then a couple of days it might be worth the price. Some of the best seafood I have ever eaten. We did not stay on the Island, but continued on to ferry over to Labrador. Now ! What they called roads, where more like trails, but that was 40 years ago. Youth is an interesting time of life. How adventurous are you??? The Road in to the Ranch might look like a super highway when you get back. R.M.

Jim, this link will picture the VEC boxes used on the newer Coaches. They are OEM specific for each chassis builder. there for no two will be exactly the same. http://www.cooperindustries.com/content/dam/public/bussmann/Transportation/Resources/catalog_pages/BUS_Tns_31000-32000.pdf What you have may be different,but this could help in finding where the wire goes to. Rich.

Mike, Here are some links to the items Brett is referring to . http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/waytek/catalog224/#/120 Fuse Blocks http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/waytek/catalog224/#/130 Circuit Brakers http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/waytek/catalog224/#/100 Relays Rich.

That is where the different state licenses come in. Where I live an my license and state say no way to pull more then one item. Rick.

The 2000 Freightliner Chassis only has had one Recall that I'm aware of, will look and see if I can get info. on it. From all the reports and information from friends that have that model year chassis, not any negatives to speak of. That was the year that they changed from the MT643 four speed transmission to the 3000 series 6 speeds. Some like the 4 speed and others like the 6 speed. Both are good, operation and torque convertor lockup and operation is different. MPG about the same. Thinking the coach will get in the neighborhood of 11mpg, depending how you drive. Has The Bosh 44 injector pump system and the Discovery's engine was rated at 300 HP if memory serves me right. The Discovery chassis all came with the 3000 series Allison I think. Rich.

Mike, Thanks for the update. Using the information from the web link you listed. The number 2 pin(Black Aux) could be used to feed 12 volts to the brake system, or be used to keep the battery charged so as you use up power it is being replaced. Make a note so anyone working with this change is aware and the reason. Service Centers do Not Like Surprises ! It kind of goes What The $&^%***)( By placing a diode in the line or right at the battery, with the banded end connected to the positive terminal would allow power to flow to the battery. It also will act as a(one way valve) it will not allow power to flow back to the 6 pin Toad connection. Typically, a 6 amp diode, rated at 50 volts will work just fine. The wire gauge should be # 8 or # 10. The longer the run the heaver the gauge wire required. You did mention a connector to the cigarette lighter. Are you using this to power the braking system? The braking power could come directly from the coach, but if you loose the connection for some reason then (No Brake System) the the circuit powering the battery. Even if the circuit is lost between the coach and toad you would still have braking for the toad. Should the fuse blow for some reason, then your back to a no brake situation. ONE other thing if you are just powering the aux braking system then you could use a lighter gauge wire-- say a # 12 gauge. Still use the Diode! Hope this helps. Rich.

Chet, On the East side of the country one can not have more then one trailed item at once in many states. One tow trailer. One Boat. One Dolly. Also ! many areas do not allow 3 trailers for the big rigs. I have got to have a cup of coffee with the boys in blue to check out a couple of items, raises some interesting questions for me. Rich.

Yak, are you looking at the 6 pin connection pictured on the website? Just want to be on the same page, so to speak. Rich.

Keven ! Oshkosh was bought out by Freightliner. Have you tried to contact them? I think I have a possible source for some parts ,but will have to look it up in my files. will add the info. to this reply when I find it. Found a link to the Oshkosh owners sight. The parts link came back as unsecured when probed by my search engine,so we will forget that for the time being. http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Oshkosh_Diesel_RV_Chassis/ Reading your post about the high speed working OK when tested,makes me wounder if there is a relay in the circuit for the high speed setting. If so.you mentioned that it has never worked. That makes me think that a wire supplying power to the mentioned relay is missing or has come loose from eather the dash control or in the area of the fan. Hope this helps,Rich.

Can you tell us what kind of supplemental system your thinking about. That will give everybody a chance to suggest where to get the 12 volts. Rich.

Batbc, You mention that it has worked fine until today. Has the furnace been off for a length of time before today?

Herman, Now you just know that if I make the furnace happy, the air conditioner will start to complain !! Rich.

Have Not found this listed on any of the topics. Furnace comes on by itself. The issue described covers a problem where the furnace will come on even when the control switch is set to OFF and the Thermostats set at the lowest setting. The Intellitec climate controls can have a problem in the control electronics, where a signal calling for heat is generated and will start the furnace(s). When this problem occurs there is no way to shut them down with the user controls. There are 2 ways to turn them off buy interrupting the 12 volt supplying the improper operation: The first is to disconnect the 12 volt power connector from the Master Control Board. This is not the temperature setting panel that one uses to set the temperature for the Furnace / AC, or modes, high / low fan or auto control. The control board you are looking for is labeled. Electronic Climate Control. Energy Management Unit. Master Controller. The module is generally located near the DC Power fuse panel or AC Breaker panel. Disconnect the power connector from the board. This will disable the Master Controller. When disconnected you lose all control of the furnace and air conditioning. The second step is to remove the outside cover of the furnace affected. Many Coaches have 2 or more. Behind the cover is a power switch that powers down the effected furnace and prevents the defective signal being generated by the Thermostat(s) logic boards form starting the furnace! Replace the cover! Then reconnect the power plug you removed from the Master Controller. All other units controlled by the controller should return to normal operation. Note! The same signal affecting a front or read furnace may very well affect the same area Air conditioner. Should the same problem happen with the Air Conditioner(s) all you need to do is remove the connector at the master controller connector that feeds power to the control relays mounted inside the effected unit! You may hear a clicking sound coming from the Master Controller when this failure is happening or about to take over control of a furnace, that will keep running with no way to control the setting. The Temperature probes could cause a similar problem and by disconnecting the probe(s) will answer that question because the affected unit will stop running. The Master Controller can also fail, but they are not the most common cause for a failed furnace / AC control problem. R.M.

Putting a tone on the wire should not cause a problem. With the wire not connected it should not have any voltage on it. Then you can check and see if it does show up at the back. Your Coach being so new,chances are there will be a secondary fuse / relay box in the rear area for the Coach. They install them to protect the rest of the coach circuits from problems that can be caused by incorrect or damaged Toad wiring. Thinking that the tone might just show up in that box or get you close to it. R.M.

Brings back memories of our first class C. A Shasta on a 1970 Ford Econoline Chassis. Many happy times with young kids and we could go to places the current AD just will not fit !! Sounds like a challenging and fun project! R.M.

Hi Rusty, This question sent me into the archives. If you have a Ford Chassis. These are the some of the things to check. I will leave out the Tire issues for now. As mentioned by Brett check the power steering fluid level. Loose or damaged hoses connections. Leakage between reservoir and housing. Leakage at pump shaft seal area. Steering Misaligned flexible coupling ( if so equipped) to gear interface. Steering column alignment. Steering linkage or front axle spindle pins for a binding condition or lack of lubrication. Bind in the front axle spindle thrust bearing. Steering gear adjustment. Power Steering Belt. Power Steering pump pressure and flow below specs. Air in the system. Contaminated fluid, incorrect fluid. Bad steering line,bent or kinked tubing. Steering gear valve binding or gear out of adjustment.(Integral Power Steering) Excessive internal gear leakage. R.M.

Hi Rich, I just found you note in the comment section. Glad you found the bad diodes. They do hide them in the darnedest places,almost impossible to find them. The fact that they where burned open had to make for a good day when you located them. All is well that ends well and now you know right where they are located. Having working brake lights is good. Hope that you will share you knowledge with others. R.M.s

The brake lights are only on when braking, so it would take a long time to discharge a battery. The other option you might consider is adding a 12 volt wire from the coach to the battery. Should your coach have a 12 volt circuit at the trailer / toad socket, add a wire running between them. Connect a diode in the line to prevent a back feed issue. A 6 amp at 50 volt diode should do the job. The diode end with the band goes to the battery. use a 8 or 10 gauge wire, Red colored wire should be used and will keep the battery fully charged. When the battery gets to a point due to age that its hard to start the Toad, the circuit described will not carry enough current to charge a battery with a bad cell ! R.M.

A number of personal listed on there web page. Do you know any of the others that might forward some contact information?

This is the Phone number Call 1-800-FTL-HELP. This is the link to Oasis Service. http://freightlinerc...menu-id-95.html This is the info. for Az Oasis. FTL, STL, WST OF ARIZONA, INC. 9600 W. ROOSEVELT ST. TOLLESON, AZ 85353 www.fswaz.com Direct Number (623) 907-9900 Where are you located at the time? R.M.

Sounds like all it needs now is a little 3 and 1 oil on all the pivot points. That may take out the click and it can not hurt. R.M.