dickandlois

Ray, The thing is not as expensive as you might think. With a factory unit that come preset to the max pressure and one needs only to install it before removing the spacer. makes it much easier. Rich.

Floyd. Sounds like what I assumed to be a vacuum diaphragm is actually a pressure diaphragm/module. Yes it is a pressure activated diaphragm . You got the gold ring while on the Carlisle ride. Rich.

Ray, That is why replacing the lines with B-20 series lines in many cases a good move. The B -20 stands for bio 20 % fuel if a reader does not understand the term. The Blob remover for older lines, Pre Bio fuel days. Rich.

Floyd, from your last post it sounds like you have access to the control module, kind of s simple setup, but there is a rather strong spring inside the pressure module. The turbo spools up and as it does a small portion of the air is diverted to the mentioned module. 1-lb. of air equals 1 inch of boost. setting the max. boost to match the specifications for the engine is important. Too High and that could and will cause damage to the engine. The little wast gate paddle needs to be free. Rust builds up from sitting - that is the biggest issue. The other big one is damaged turbo compressor vanes and coke buildup in the turbo bearings due to oil breakdown - caused by stopping a hot engine to soon after a full throttle run uphill. The temperatures can easily exceed 1200 degrees. Hope this helps and clears up how this style wast gate works. The New VGT setup is similar, but mechanically different, if that makes any sense. Rich.

Floyd, the HX -40 is setup like my HX-35, with the exhaust brake not releasing thing will get hot real fast. NOT Good. The exhaust gate for the turbo needs to be free to move. Super Lub. it but the location makes it difficult to get to in most cases. The 12 volts operates an air piston that moves the pakbrake. The mechanical pivot points need to be lubed frequently or they seize up. Use Super Lub. sold by Cummings and others in small bottles. Not keeping things free can add up to some expensive repairs. Rich.

Welcome to the FMCA Forum ! The torque check is like 50 to 150 miles after they have been rotated or replaced. Once they have been rechecked you should be able to drive them until the next time they are removed. I have one that reads the required level. many tire shops use torque sticks, but a direct drive adjustable is not cheep. Check with some of the parts stores, some have tools for rent and you do not need them all the time. The road service trucks just take them off and seldom check for the correct torque. Some use the torque sticks. The 3/4 in. impact wrenches well exceed 700 Foot lbs. That kind of force can damage the lug and or the lug nuts. The Diesel coaches often come with a connivance air supply, thing is some are preset to a max pressure of 65 lbs. one needs to ask and / or check . Rich.

Wow, A lot of damage ! Only driven for 10 miles, things had to heat up fast ! What braking system was install? Dealership installation? Rich.

Bill, Is that PTFE based? Rich.

Wayne, Kind of overlooked your post. The system is setup with stop pins, but they do not interrupt the drive 12 volts . like Joe mentioned, the seals compress and as they do so. The motor load starts to grown both extending and retracting. Any groaning in the nominal travel distance is an indication that the slide is overloaded or requires some TLC. A cleaning or some lubricant applied to the exposed slide out mechanism . Owners also need to keep items clear of the inside an Outside area around the side walls or something left on top of the slides roof area. Often referred to as the Opes factor. Rich. Grade 8 bolts Should Not be used as Sheer Pins. just a 1/4 - 20 hardware bolt. Better to brake the bolt then something much more difficult to change and far more expensive .

Ray, Slide control uses the best computer ever designed. The one we carry around above our shoulders. There is a sheer bolt or pin involved and as the slide seals compress the operator turns off the switch. Not real technical but very reliable most of the time, with a little TLC and the correct lubricants. 3 inch square slide rails that run on roller bearings supported on a 4 inch channel running through both frame rails. The slide floor, bays and slide mechanics are for the most part supported primarily by the chassis main rails, even when retracted or extended. The steel walls are close to 3/16 inch steel. Over built! probably ! The ISB Cummings is rated to 275 HP an 660 Ft. lbs. with a MT-643 transmission rated at 42,000 Lb load. The only real weakness, is the CAC size. Could have been a little bigger, but if one keeps it and the radiator clean things work well. The Allison input torque is only 660 Ft.Lbs. With a tune up and setup the Cummings could put out close to 800 ft. lbs. The system is set for MPG to weight load. Rich.

Thanks! Think the issue has been resolved, but options are always welcome! Rich.

I had an Old truck with issues of rust flaking off inside. Resolved the issue by a though cleaning of the inside of the tank and dumping a can of a epoxy mix inside and placing the tank so all 6 sides where expose to the mix. let it set for 2 days to dry . Still working fine as far as I know - that was almost 15 tears ago. Getting the tank replaced and replacing the fuel lines might be a better fix for the coach. Yes it was a red neck repair at the time ! LOL Rich.

Floyd, You are Welcome, it is hard to know what skill sets a member has from the first few posts. That makes it difficult to know how allot of the information sheared between the members of the Forum can help or send an owner way off in the wrong direction. Safe travels and remember who has your back. Rich.

Richard, Did you open the PDF files I forwarded and are your thoughts based on them? Rich.

athurjack, This is the closest files I have on file that might help. This is a copy of a converted file I found. Could you inform me if your coach is built on an F-53 chassis ? Might have some other information. Rich. Holiday_1991_Aluma-LiteXL.pdf

What you described is what I might expect to see. This is some information on your year HR that might help. Rich Starter Wiring.pdf 2001 Holiday Rambler VIM Trans.pdf Rear Run Box Wiring.pdf Starter Wiring.pdf

dsabers, Welcome to the FMCA Forum ! Question is does anyone have any experience with this coach. It has a Cummins ISB 6.7L engine rated at 300hp and 675ft/lbs of torque. I have concerns about towing. Brett mentioned there is a big difference between the 2000 and 3000 series Allison. This link might fill in some information gaps that you might have. The ISB power range is much higher at lower RPM's then the gas power plants. Rich.

The pressure is present, is that at the air lines feeding the air bags? On some coaches it is preset and on others it is adjustable. Could you post the last time you tried you tried to raise and lower the tag? Rich. Might try to raise the tag when in travel mode, Monaco mentions lees then 10 MPH And many coaches have an alarm and light when the tag axle is raised.

One would think it would be impossible for something to windup in the area, but the rack and spur gears are exposed to the outside road dirt. Building a total shield would take a metal brake and hrs. of work. Think that might be one reason a number of them are hydraulic. However that system suffers from it's own issues and weaknesses. Over 110,000 miles on this coach over all kinds of roads and weather conditions, you just know something is going to whacked by something on the road. Brett mentioned that the Texas stone is in time out, but it could have originate from a number of states, and those super wide replacements for duel's just will not clear the underside of a Diesel class A. Eating one on Rt. 95 in heavy traffic proved that and the damage to a towed can be devastating . Rich.

Thanks for the update. Kind of a devil to find even if it is kind of out in the open. Good job ! Grounds are always the key issue for many of the electrical issues. Rich.

Well, the slide issue has been resolved for now. I use grease to lubricate the mechanical parts and it appears that a small stone or something stuck in the rack gear. this stopped the full extension of the rear unit. Good for now and when we get home I will do a good cleaning of the mechanical assembly. Then a relub job. Rich.

Welcome to the FMCA Forum ! Did this issue just happen? How long has it been sense the last time it operated correctly? Sounds like you have control voltage and air pressure, Do you know what the pressure level is at the axle air bags? Rich.

This sure sounds like an electrical issue. You might call Winnebago and ask if your chassis has a VDU Air pressure Module and where it is located. Second, These modules have had some poor solder issues. The common procedure is to replace them and they cost in excess of $1000.00. They can be repaired in most cases, but requires a person with very good solder skills and the ability to open the seal and do a good job of resealing the module. The directions to repair are available. Rich.

rbarkley, Looked and could not find a picture of the relay in my computer picture files. Maybe it never got transferred from the camera SD card. However ! what I was referring to was the plastic molded housing its self. there are tabs molded on each end that are used to mount the unit to the chassis. The cables have rubber boots that protect the cable connection points. The starting issue could be the castle ignition relay - small relay mounted close to and supplies starting current to the starter. but the guage bottomed a couple of times on the way home The rapid drop in air pressure sounds like a cold solder joint in the VDU module. Never goes between 120 and 0 ? drops from 120 to 60 psi. Do both gauges drop or just One? Rich.

Thanks Wayne !!! Think I will see what pops up for a day or 2. Nothing is impossible - just more difficult at times. Rich.