dickandlois

Ray, From your description it sounds like there is a problem in the planetary gear section of the gear box. Most common problem is the bushing that keeps the center shaft centered in the gearbox. It wears an oblong hole in the casting. Fixable with the proper equipment. Getting the slide out opened takes a little extra manpower and removing as much of the load without dissembling everything helps. Rich.

Thinking the issue might be in the Hydraulic Valving that controls the fan speed. The setup can be quite different depending on model and year. The issue can be caused by wear of motor vane material - that can contaminate the HY fluid. Question: is the cooling hydraulics driven off the transmission or a separate system that needs some TLC, perhaps including new fluid and filter replaced. Rich.

Joe, Some of the motors are easier to R and R then others. I have removed the Blower housing to replace the sail switches - While doing that job one can also clean the motor shaft bushing and apply some silicon grease to the shaft and bushing(bearing) area. Note, These motor blower bushing are open to dirt and dust. The best product to clean them that I have found is CRC spray. It removes all the old lubrication along with the dirt. Spray some Silicon on the shaft and bushing while the motor is running. Nice thing is they run on 12 volts, but keep you fingers clear on the blower (squirrel cage) They can wack a finger and that can brake the blower also! Motor part number is related directly to the system BTU's Field vice - 2 pieces of 2X4 held together with bungee cord(s) Rich.

Bobmid, FYI. No welding should be performed on the coach, until the power is removed from the engine and transmission control boards. Best plan would be to contact the Chassis builder for the correct info before proceeding . Rich.

Journey odd electrical problem - Water intrusion , caused 3 contacts to short together. This is a picture of the part that was at the heart of the problem on this coach. Freightliner Chassis. The switch is attached to the park brake system - drivers side, close to the frame and rear axle. There was a relay buzzing sound. The issues caused are covered in post preceding this picture. Along with the circuit numbers in this case. Can be like looking for a needle in a haystack. Rich Park Brake Pressure Switch.pdf

fagnaml, To help assure good diesel fuel quality (lubricity, corrosion protection, detergent properties, prevent oxidation, etc.), I, like several other forum members, routinely use the Power Service "Diesel Kleen and Cetane Boost" additive available at your favorite Walmart. Diesel Kleen is the only additive endorsed by Cummins --> https://www.businesswire.com/news/home/20170510005497/en/Cummins-Officially-Recommends-Power-Service®-Diesel-Kleen Always add the White bottle because we live well north of RT 40, That is an arbitrary line mentioned by Power Service. Question pertaining to Biocid's . I had a bottle of it crystallize, was that due to cold weather or evaporation in hot weather? Keep some added when we are setting for more then 30 days. Rich.

Richard, This device is more for AC filtering and might cause other issues. Noise Suppressor Power EMI Filter Termianl Single-Phase Line-Conditioner JREle AC 115/250V 20A CW4L2-20A-S Rich. You posted a link for a DC to DC box and now I'm having problems finding the link. darned old organic computer circuits!

The real problem appears to be room to mount the needed LEDs . Close quarters and heat of 24 volt LEDs could lead to short life span. Rich.

I did run through that routine during the summer when I first realized I had a problem. The voltage leaving the resistor panel and the voltage at the headlamp sockets were the same. If I remember correctly, about 11.9v. That being the case you should be able to pick up close to 2 volts with a DC to DC converter. That extra would make a big difference in candle power. Rich.

Historical equipment was built to work - no real consideration of efficiency. That is why AC won over DC, but big generators did not travel well. Rich.

Richard, Voltage going to the resistor panel is where it should be. All four headlight circuits are providing over 24v with engine off and up to 28 with it running. The problem was apparently downstream from that. I removed the resistor panel and cleaned every connector and terminal. Everything visibly looked good - no broken resistors or wires, no corrosion, etc. Best I could get for output was 11.9v which is simply not enough for the sealed beams to shine bright enough. Lets try a different approach. With any one of the headlights removed, what is the dc voltage reading to a good chassis ground? What is the reading between the head light wiring ground and the 12 volt light feed. this is just a voltage reading. subtract one voltage from the other, what is the difference? Got a good digital meter? What is the resistance reading between the headlight socket pins.? not plugged in, No Power / light plugged in, lights power turned off, Measure the filament resistance again . Write down the number(s). Trying to see if there is a voltage drop difference between the harness wiring and a know good ground at a point on the frame. with some known numbers -seeing what you have /com paired to what the math come out to. Where is the voltage drop / resistance being injected/added? Rich.

Richard, Your 24 volt system should be a very stable source of power ! So there should be no need for a cap to filter the things. The resister divider you picture is old school but very reliable - only time one of them fail is when something shorts out. The lights should be fused to prevent any damage though. Oxidation or loose connections are the most common problem in the circuit pictured. The box you are looking at is a DC to DC converter, that is designed to convert 24 volts to 12 volts. A very Common practice in today's world. Are you saying that one of the headlights is not working or is just dimmer then the other? FYI. I got the last list of items you are hoping to get some info on and will keep looking around, sending things as I find them. Will keep you in the loop. Rich.

Need you to post the Make, Model, Year and class of the Coach to narrow things down. Rich.

This Link might help, they supplier parts to Monaco. https://www.veurinksrv.com/parts-year-make-model/ Rich.

Richard, Do you have any idea who built the head / turbine section? Just maybe I might have an old diagram hanging around. Iffy, but maybe. Old books and information is allowed to set around and collect dust. Rich.

Edward, Welcome to the FMCA Forum ! A new item to me, this might prove helpful. Will look around some more. http://itrheat.com/products/rv-trailer-mobile-heating-system/ Rich. This Looks like it might be a service manual ? Parts list? file:///C:/Users/Data%20Base/Desktop/Oasis_Service_Manual.pdf This should get you some good contact info. to start looking for parts. http://itrheat.com/ The Mechanical layout and physical dimensions of the components could be challenging . Looks like there are about 10 lbs. squeezed into a 5 lb. space.

Maybe thinking of one for the sticks and bricks then for the road. The other advantage is the old style turbines can be rewired and setup different then the newer ones. Up North where ice storms are more common - we tend to loose grid connections, have an old 4 KW handy to keep the house warm and the lights on. also can make ice for 4 months of the year, keeping food cold for half the year not as challenging. Much like your home stomping ground. Rich.

When the genset was pulled the remotely mounted controller was discarded. No engine controls, no voltage regulator, no nothing. Richard, Because of the age of the engine, It has a mechanical governor system. Thinking the missing items are more for remote start, stop and possibility temperature and oil pressure. Rich.

Mike, Does the sound you hear sound muffled or is it a sharp sound - like metal hitting metal ? Is there a truck shop in the area that could look at the chassis Air ride systems and bushings? Rich.

Brett, This is the system used on our original Fleetwood gas unit. Kind of small -with a good current level. Yes all diode systems have a .7 volt drop and the standard alternator regulator voltage is 13.5. It should not need any wire larger then a good transfer switch (ATS) Rich. See Nan mentioned that the Switch measured good, but not sure that one is mounted in the Bounder or the Sun Seeker.

Nancy, this is a link to a Multi-Battery Isolator PDF file that is used to connect the engine alternator to both the coach and chassis battery system. https://www.waytekwire.com/datasheet/80051.pdf The information should allow you to make charging all the batteries off the engine alternator or from a battery charger. Rich.

Welcome to the FMCA Forum ! By No power, are you referring to the 12 volts powering the per-amplifier in the roof TV antenna? Not the 120 volt outlet in the equipment area? Rich.

Do you have an air pressure alarm only when driving or is it sounding when park brakes are set also? Have you contacted Freightliner and asked if your model year chassis use the VDU module? It is difficult to offer good feedback with limited information on how your chassis is setup. Rich.

Rod, The electric set drive circuits have a Current limiting circuit in most cases. This is a safety circuit to protect a person from being hit or trapped under them as they extend or retract. So if you step on them as they are moving - they should stop moving quickly. Good test of the current limiting circuit. If they stop, then that circuit is working properly. If the steps keep moving - then the control module most likely needs to be replaced. A clicking sound is not nominal ! Rich.

Rod, Think it would be a good to look at the mechanical parts an use a good spray lubricant like TriFlow. It is a very good Lubricating oil and penetrating oil. WD-40 is a good water dispersing spray, but weak in lubricating department. Rich.