dickandlois

Do you have the chassis wring diagrams you you coach. There could be an issue(s) with the turn signal switch mounted under the steering wheel and that might be more then you want to venture into. You could run a circuit test at the connector between the switch and the connector under the dash that connects it to the main chassis harness. Look at the link to tutorial link I attach if you need some refresher info in a post just up from here in a reply! Rich.

Joe,the simple answer is YES, because LED lights require only mil amps to light, and any path to power will allow them to light - Even if dimly and will off ten cause other issue in the lighting circuits. Rich.

Do you have a multi meter? set it at ohms, The Greek symbol for omega. With the power off to all the lighting circuits, read the resistance of the ground wire to the chassis ! you might want to make up a ground long ground wire with a clip large enough to connect to a good point on the chassis. If your meter has a zeroing feature - short the 2 meter wires together at the ends used to measure the circuits. Set to meter to zero. THEN measure the resistance of the jumper wire you made up. You can then reset the zero point on the meter wit the jumper wire connected, re zero meter or just wright down the number. Now you measure the ground wire from each lamp and wright down the numbers. They will be from 0 to infinity. the closer to zero / the better the ground point, The higher the number the farther the connection is from ground. Measuring something like 0.005 has a better connection then one that reads .09 or greater like 1000 or 10, 10,000. Numbers like that will indicate bad grounds. Even 15, 20 or higher have connection issues that need to be address. link to learn- https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/how-to-use-a-multimeter/all.pdf Rich.

Joe, I just use plane old diodes, that meet the current and reverse emf expected. The band goes to the lamp, relay or diode one wants to isolate. Rich. Most Diode / LED lights are polarity sensitive. Some of the more expensive ones have a circuit built into them that allow you to just plug them in and the circuit reacts to the polarity of the wiring.

The box size looks right as do the wire colors - they match the colors for turn signal and marker lights. Rich

edain08 , Glad you got it working ! Could you post the location of the socket you replaced? The Rear Right or Right side marker? To me it sounds like the ground circuit for the flasher found a good ground when the socket was replaced, but it still needed a new bulb. Removing the bulb should cause the issue to return. The way the circuit reacted would have perplexed me also! IF It was a Rear light bulb socket, there is a harness connection at the passenger rear corner area, that is exposed to the elements. That connector does have a ground wire / circuit for all the rear lights except the trailer / Tow vehicle. Should the problem pop up again - find the mentioned connector and clean it with CRC, check the wiring and reconnect it. Did that resolve the original issue again? Here is the logic behind my thoughts - If like I mentioned above if the issue happens when the bulb is removed from the socket that solved the issue then you still have a week or open ground. Rich.

The new oil formulations are not all backwards compatible and the engine protection will be compromised. The new engines are designed with tighter tolerances and for the 0 to 5 weight cold are needed to get the oil pressure up ASAP because tighter tolerances leave less space for a thicker layer of oil to keep the main and rod bearings from being damaged. Lost the bearings in one of the classic cars, they spun around, damaging the crank shaft and bearing. That was a new one for me. Oil changes on a regular bases are your friend. The engine shop found that this was caused by the WRONG oil formulation. Apparently at some point the lithium / zine based mixed got changed. So I now buy special oil that meats the engine requirements. Not an inexpensive lesson. The old vehicles do set longer now and then between start ups and I'm concerned that the old diesel engines could suffer the same problem with an oil mixture that is blended for newer engines and NOT backwards compatible. Rich.

edain08, Welcome to the FMCA Forum! Symptoms: with lights off - Left side turn signals work normally Right side turn signal - all lights flash including running lights Left , right ,front and Back? With lights on - Left side works normally Right side nothing flashes lights are just on. The closest point to all the lights involved is the Turn Signal switch and the flasher units. Might just try replacing flasher units turn and 4 way. Do you have the chassis electrical drawings for your coach? The 1999 Discovery is built on a Frieghliner Chassis if I remember correctly. Where you working on the turn signal bulbs with the flasher or one side of the turn signals operating? Rich.

I n our travels we have parked next to some of the 7 figure coaches and many of the owners have lamented over there older units with out slides. Have looked in the bays of some and the amount of space dedicated to the system control is like looking at the server installations for education and the corporate world. The thing is, those installations where not installed into a mobile environment, like planes, trains, trucks or automobiles. A whole different world!! Rich.

There is one independent road service truck in the Rochester N.Y. area - That fixed an oil leak in the air compressor on our coach and one or 2 fleet service road trucks in the area. The part that many owners shutter over in the road time fee - to get them on location. Joe, congratulations on you 4 year anniversary! We have been through a few coaches over the years, but the one we have now has been the one that has just worked over and above the others and is simple enough for an old country boy to keep running. I'm not sure I want to go through that learning curve again. The newer coaches have gotten exponentially more complex with all the amenities an there software driven control systems. Rich.

A little more digging in to my own question and found this White Paper information that helps clear things up. From the information offered it appears that older engines are considered to be 2017 model years and older, with the 2018 series of engines being considered new and designed to run on the new synthetic blends and total synthetic based lubricating chemistry. The part that was totally confusing for me was the CK-4 designation as it relates to the T-4 designation transition. The link below offers charts and explanations. Like Brett mentioned - you need to follow the the engine information for your particular engine(s) https://alliedoil.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/Shell-Rotella-CK4_FA4-White-Paper1.pdf Rich.

The question I have for those much better to reply to them I'm. Wear protection beyond CK-4 standards In API industry wear tests, Shell ROTELLA® T4 Triple Protection 15W-40 didn’t just meet CK-4 specifications; it delivered an average 50 percent more wear protection than required. It also provided strong wear protection in CK-4 engine tests including the Cummins ISM and ISB. That’s protection where it matters most - on the road. OK New Shell ROTELLA® T4 15W-40 Triple Protection and Shell ... with lower viscosity oils, so backwards compatibility is limited. Hum ? CK-4 oils will replace current CJ-4 oils and will be completely backwards compatible with all current engines. They will be designed with improved oxidation resistance, shear stability and aeration control. FA-4 oils include lower viscosity grades designed for next-generation diesel engines to help maximize fuel economy without sacrificing engine protection. Some older engines were not designed to operate with lower viscosity oils, so backwards compatibility is limited. So what year engines are considered older? Rich. http://rotella.shell.com/media/2016/new-shell-rotella-engine-oils-offer-improved-technology.html

Carl - Did things get wet in the main fuse box and relay panel located in the front left bay area? Rich.

Second the Welcome ! You could have pulled some of the chassis wires loose and they are installed by Freightliner. I'm going with you pulled the rear bumper loose? The starter issue and some of the others could be appearing because the loose part(s) are allowing the wiring harness to be moving in areas of the frame and shorting out items to ground or even pulling wires loose from other connections at the rear of the coach. Do thew marker lights, brake and turn signals work? Rich.

I have seen a picture like that before ! They build a house that is driven down the road that can be like putting them in a blender and just seeing what loosens up first. Rich.

There is a reason for that right now! will expand on that at a latter time. Slowing down does not tend to slow down the curiosity ! Rich.

I had some time the other day to do a little math on just how much air by volume goes through an internal combustion engine by displacement. The following is some of the process I went through to calculate air intake in a large gas power engine or a medium sized Diesel engine. The PDF file covers the sources of the equations used and some interesting numbers. The rate of the air flow in MPH kind of stood out and offered a good baseline for why one wants to keep the system clean and in good condition. The interesting item that kind of stands out is the difference in aspirated engines and engines with the addition of turbo chargers efficiency changes. Kind of give one the key reason why when a turbo power systems power drops off so much when that system is compromised in any way. Rich. Engine Air flow by displacement.pdf

Dickmasse, Welcome to the FMCA Forum ! There are members that offer to drive other members coaches / RV's and some offer to be helping hands when it comes to getting some work done on things. Could you offer some information on the overall condition of your motorhome - Like how long it has been in storage and it it might need some TLC or some other work before it is ready to move. Also, is it a Gas powered unit or Diesel and what size unit is it ? Rich.

chrisnissen, Welcome to the FMCA Forum ! Did the AC work when you tested it at the shop? Does the heater blower work when in the vent setting or with the AC off? Rich.

Tom, Welcome to the FMCA Forum ! A good amount of the Information on the Coach has been lost over time, but this link might help get some information. http://www.monacoav.com/featured-brands-bose.htm Rich.

2013 tiffin, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. There have been posts that described the issue. They can be operated by air or by an electric motor turning a worm gear with a scissor type mechanism. With a grinding sound, I would go with a stripped drive gear caused by a binding in the mechanical assembly. Rich.

This is a link to finding a number of the headlights and other lights for a number of coaches. One can use the DOT number on the lights if it is still intact, But this sight uses the Manufacture, Model and Year to cross reference the items. They do not have everything, but do list a fair number of them. http://buyrvlights.com/product.html/ Rich. This link might also help. https://www.bonanza.com/booths/Lighting_4_U

Jim, Our Freightliner chassis has a pulse conditioner in the speedometer circuit. The wiring diagram does not show it. The module is powered from the ignition circuit. That might be where the smell came from? Also, the speed sensor on our coach has 2 sensors on the same probe and 4 wires. I have had trans fluid weep from the fluid bath and work its way into the harness connector. Clean it with CRC and reassemble. Some ECMs are set up to use the transmission sensor for the Tachometer and the Speedometer. There is a 2 wire and a 4 wire sensor depending on the setup that was used when the chassis wiring was designed, all related to the Engine and Transmission Year. To count the pulses you could use a Pulse detector prob - to see if it is working. The only real way to get a count is to use an oscilloscope. A frequency counter might work? This is the sensor information DATA sheet for single and double sensor units. Rich. Still looking for the picture I took of the pulse conditioner. Some times there are to many files spread out over applications. LOL Speed sensor link for the Allison AT, MT and HT Series Allison_ Trans_Side-Look-Speed Sensor.pdf Speed sensor link for the Allison 3000 and 4000 Series- There is an upgraded sensor - so the OEM part number will have been superseded. It is a direct interchange for the OEM Sensor. The Motorhome transmissions like the MD 3060 included. Bell Alison Speed sensors_2009_1094.pdf

Thanks Brett ! DW is not home and it is a little cool up here today, so I have time to chew on this one. Rich.

Thanks DD, The axle is not going to be moved or any bolts removed other then both end bolts, in any way to replace the tract bar. The information as I read you reply - is to measure from the frame rail to the wheel and that both sides should be equal, with a tolerance of 7 mm / 9/32 in. of the center. Now if I loosen the mounting bolts and the track bar length of the new one and the old one are equal - things should be fine and the frame rails should not move relative to the axle if nothing else is loose. Rich.