dickandlois

Joe, believe it or not, Fleetwood has some recalls out on some of there coaches - because the spring that locks the breakers fails and can cause arching and panel damage.. With the recall there could have been a fire or 2 that did not come out! Rich.

Mike, I have not seen any negative or problem issues with the roof AC or water heater wiring caused by loose connection at the connections at those items. The real issue is at the main power panels, the transfer switch and the generator "J" Box interface wiring between the generators and the coach wiring going to the Automatic transfer switches. The only other item that has come up from time to time is the ground wire that connects the generator ground to the Chassis has failed or come loose. All are considered high current points that need to be checked and serviced as needed. Just added this PDF file that might help understand the 120 volt electrical wiring for a 50 amp system, a 30 amp is slightly different. Rich. Typical 50 Amp power distribution layout.pdf

Joe, The park brake on the Fred Chassis is applied by a foot peddle - if I have the information correct and getting the parts is an issue scene that chassis has fallen out of favor with the coach builders. I have not spent any time digging into that. The chassis is still being built for the trucking industry I think. A lot that I have not looked into - just feedback from some Fred chassis owners that have had problems getting them fixed. Rich.

The OP needs to look into the parking brake system, Freightliner is now having some issues getting parts for the chassis used for motorhomes. The last I was aware of ! Rich.

Yep ! A number of the companies making items for the RV manufactures are now consolidated under Drew Industries Inc. Rich.

Five, They are not real responsive now days. Running on a small crew and the coach builders get the front sets. Rich.

OK ! It's one of the simple ones and all you need is a SMALL grease gun specific to the job ! There are small grease fittings at the bottom of the hydraulic cylinders and they are kind-of hidden by the ground plates, but right at the bottom of the cylinder there is a small grease fitting. (The new cylinder often have them pressed in / instead of screwed in, from what I have gotten feedback on) Anyway - buy a small gun with a tube of White Lithium grease, Each fitting gets 2 shots (More is not always better) of the grease and that keeps the bottom seals expanded enough to keep the hydraulic fluid in. The issue with you New coach is that someone forgot to grease them. LOL and by doing that it very well could stop the small leak. There is a note in the older Power Gear manuals that mentions greasing them ever 30 cycles(jacks down / jacks up) is a cycle. That grease also keeps the jack rams in good condition and relatively clean. There is not one sales person that will say -I knew that !!!!! Good luck and let me know if greasing the leaky one fixes the problem and if it does, put a shot of grease in the other 3. keep an eye no them for leaks. Rich. Let me know, Thanks. Freightliner does not install the jacks - Coach builder does !!!! Found the Service information related to the jacks. WARNING: Your coach should be supported at both front and rear axles with jack stands before working underneath, failure to do so may result in personal injury or death. 1. Check the fluid level every month. Fill the reservoir with the jacks in the fully retracted position. On vertical pump assemblies, the fluid should be within 1/4 inch of the fill port lip and checked only with all jacks retracted. On horizontal pump assemblies, the fluid level should be up to the weep hole on the side of the reservoir tank and checked only with all jacks retracted. 2. Change fluid every 24 months. I have extended this suggested fluid cycle, but the coach has not been in a hearse or saltwater environment over extended period. 3. Inspect and clean all hydraulic pump electrical connections every 12 months. 4. Remove dirt and road debris from jacks as needed. 5. If jacks are down for extended periods, it is recommended to spray exposed chrome rods with a silicone lubricant every seven days for protection. If your coach is located in a salty environment (within 60 miles of coastal areas), it is recommended to spray the rods every 2 to 3 days. 6. Jacks equipped with grease fittings at the bottom of the cylinder should be greased with light weight lithium grease using a hand pump style grease gun only. 2 or 3 pumps should be sufficient for every 20-30 uses. 7. Do not use a high pressured was/rinse system on any of the components associated with the leveling system. This includes the pump, pump motor, wiring harness, control and touchpad. THE USE OF A HIGH PRESSURE WASH/RINSE SYSTEM WILL VOID THE WARRANTY.

Bill, Nice coach, so glad that your experience has been positive for the most part. Regarding issue number 5, By chance are the leveling jacks made by Power Gear? If so there might be a fix for the fluid leak and no need to go in for service if you are interested. Let me know and safe and happy travels. Rich.

Roger, Hey that will work, but you might want to find a way to keep them in place as you shack, rattle and roll down the road! You just know that they will never move much when your parked. Rich.

Linde60, Welcome to the FMCA Forum ! Do the steps still operate properly when you park? Loose wire is common, that and the magnetic switch and magnet on the screen door might be moving around ! Rich.

Bill, the only item that is not in the mix yet, is the filter particulate size and that number could become an issue. smaller is better, but how small can have an effect on replacement intervals and what gets through affects engine ware. Rich.

Herman, I think the member got that question into the wrong thread, Like Carl mentioned. Think this is beyond Brett's pay grade and might require the IT Dept. Sure reads to me that they are looking for information on an EMS system. Then again it might be a request for info on the Generator auto state settings ? Rich.

Welcome to the FMCA forum ! Could you post the Make Model and Year of you unit for the group ? There just to many different wiring setups to just take a stab in the dark. Rich.

Paul, If there is a good / solid ground and you can get to it, connect a wire from there to the detector and test things before pulling it in to where you want it to run. If something is going to cause an issue - it is better to find that using the selected ground is not going to work - before finding out there is going to be an issue later. Make sure you operate the dimmer with the temporary ground test first. Should things not work out as planned - you could use a circuit tone tester to fallow the current wire path of the OEM wire. A tone is placed on the wire and then you use a probe that can fallow the wire , by running it on the outside of the material hiding it. I have always refereed to them as a Fox and Hound system. IT, Telephone and audio system techs use them to fine those allusive wires. Rich.

Paul. A few questions? Did the Detector just quit - no indication of an issue? Thinking it is installed in the bedroom area and mounted on an interior wall not an exterior wall. Mounted on the wall that divides the bathroom from the bedroom or a closet wall ? Any work done on the coach in the general area of the detector? With a multimeter set on OHMS - do you get a resistance on any of the ranges between a known good ground and the detector ground wire ? Rich.

Might include DD in the mix. Rich.

The Motor has Oil cups, yep (motor has oil cups) That is what he posted. Hope they did not use 3 and 1 oil. Glad you found a shop that will tackle the Compressor !! Rich. Some CRC will clean the sludge out and then some TriFlow - smooth as silk...Old furnace motor trick.

Way off subject, but All I would like is the pattern on the water that was seen / 8 to 10 nice clear pictures should speak volumes on the issue> LOL Water never lies. Rich. I know Brett, but I needed some fun as long as I started the mess. Sure more fun then being on a medical marry go round. Oh boy - Oh Boy !!!!!!!

Carl, The information that he has offered has been very helpful and informative for sure. I was just looking to see what statistics where out there over the long hall. Regarding the cost per state, that is tricky. No 2 states use the same formula to calculate the tax percentage. And then there are the pipeline and other delivery fees and who is adding / what percentage to the final price per gal. Rich.

There is always a first time for something and SO you where correct !!!! Think it is now correct. The one time I post something and not test the link and it got me. LOL Rich.

Eric, The alarms fail and also the connection between the alarm and the power feeding the backup lights, alarm is in the same circuit and like you mentioned it could have been intentionally disabled. Just one old Keystoner to another. Rich.

Carl, The only item covered is the cost averages, not the blends involved in each price. What one drives and the way one drives - plus what is everyone's personal choice . Like the oil question and anyway - That is kind of out of my pay scale as Brett often mentions. Now if one of the members wants to go there OK, but I stretched Brett's limit on the oil question. Rich.

There have been a number of questions regarding the cost of operating recreational vehicles regarding MPG. Ones driving habits have a big effect on cost. The size of the vehicle, engine size , road elevation change and weather also can have an impact on MPG. The BTU levels of the fuels remain fairly constant - with fuel blends having a relative small effect on MPG overall. The attached link offers some information on fuels and geographic location on fuel cost. A long read in some regards, but informative. https://www.afdc.energy.gov/uploads/publication/alternative_fuel_price_report_jan_2018.pdf Rich. Electric powered vehicle information is not included, but has maintained the most consistent price line over the same time line and is the most cost efficient over all. The up front cost of the vehicles is on average higher then hydrocarbon fueled vehicles.

Kirkpal 1, Welcome to the FMCA Forum ! Your 2003 Workhorse Chassis, is it powered by a 8.1 L gas engine or a Diesel Engine? Your coach has a P-30 / 32 series chassis, built after Navstar took over the series. Rich. Evolution of the groundbreaking W20/W22 gas platforms marks the latest appearance of a Navistar MaxxForce engine on the motor home scene. This time it’s the MaxxForce™ 7, a 230 horsepower 6.4L V8 powerplant that puts out a hefty 620 lb.-ft. of torque Before one can supply any information regarding repair of the chassis one needs to know what is powering the coach. There is information available, but it needs to be filtered and pieced together from large file covering different units.

Brakes on Towed items - By All Means !!! When you apply the brakes on the coach and there is no breaking system and the roads are wet, THAT towed item is free wheeling and will look for a way to get around what is in front of it as it slides sideways it will meet up with the coach ether at one rear corner or the other and if one of the tow bars fail you will see it parked right next to one of the rear sides of the coach. Something a little more expensive then I want and add to that the possible ticket and some legal fees, No Thank you !!!!! You just can not beat the laws of physic. Rich.