dickandlois

Glennr, Does this look like your fuse panel layout? part # 12162365 01 to 05 W series and P Series Fuse Panel Cover. Is the layout is the same ? https://www.ultrarvproducts.com/12162365-01-05-W-Series-P-Series-Fuse-relay-Box-Cover- Rich. If you can attach a picture of the fuse box - might be able to get closer. 12162365 - 01-05 W-Series & P-Series Fuse/relay Box Cover 12162365 - 01-05 W-Series & P-Series Fuse/relay Box Cover 12162365 - 01-05 W-Series & P-Series Fuse/relay Box Cover

There are 3 supply valves for the system and 1 valve to release the air from the system, in most cases. The air leaks are at the out put of the solenoid operated air valves, there is on spring under the connections to the air springs / levelers that I know of. With the system aired down the lines should disconnect from the connections, Mark each line so you know where to reconnect them - look at the line ends for any damage or cracks. Check the quick disconnects are OK, clean and sealed well into there solenoid. Sure looks like things are leaking at the line coupler not at the coupler connection at the valves. Rich.

rcieslake67, Welcome to the FMCA Forum This might help. Rich Installing SMI Air Force One Supplemental Braking System on 40 Foot Dutchcraft on Spartan Chassis Question: What lines to I use to install air force one on my 40ft Dutchcraft/dutch house on Spartan Chassis. How do I install this unit? asked by: Jimbo F Expert Reply: When installing the SMI Air Force One Supplemental Braking System For Motor Homes with Air Brakes # SM99243 you will need to find the supply air line and the metered air line. On the Dutchcraft motor home on the Spartan Chassis the larger 5/8 inch line is the supply air line, and the smaller 3/8 inch line below the supply air line is the metered air line. I have attached a photo showing witch line is the supply and which line is the metered. Click to Enlarge

Welcome to the FMCA Forum ! Links to some Power gear True line information. https://www.lci1.com/assets/content/support/manuals/pg-valid-manual-air-level-install-service.pdf https://www.lci1.com/assets/content/support/technical-information-sheets/Power_Gear/Leveling/pg_Valid_diagnostic_manual_airhyd.pdf https://www.lci1.com/assets/content/support/manuals/pg_valid_air_only_operator_manual_7_6_05.pdf This link is more related to the Beaver coach system. http://beaveramb.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/Power-Gear-Valid_Service_Manual.pdf Rich.

Welcome to the FMCA Forum ! Kens suggestion for finding what outlets are powered by the inverter is a good one. The common 120 volt wiring from Monaco - The inverter is a Xantrex freedom 2000 watt modified sine-wave, that has 2-120 volt circuit breakers mounted in the unit. One circuit is dedicated to the Microwave and that circuit has a GFI outlet, that has the possibility of feeding one circuit. often the bathroom, but no hair drier and microwave at the same time !!!! The second circuit from the inverter is most often wired to the dining area and extends to the entertainment equipment. Not a good idea to try to make coffee and toaster at the same time or to run the TV - the circuit is limited to 15 amps in most cases. The amount of AC available from the inverter - is limited by the size of the house battery bank and the condition of the batteries. Always remember that those same batteries supply the 12 volts for all the appliances and lighting circuits. You might need to run the generator at times to get enough power and to recharge the coach batteries. There are breakers in the inverter as mentioned above and there is a transfer relay on a time delay that often powers the microwave when on shore power. The only way to really know how your coach is wired is to get PDF drawings from Monaco. Rich.

hvstorck, Welcome to the FMCA Forum ! Living in N.Y. we know all to well how busy the crossing points can get! We try to cross Very early in the morning, like 3:00 to 4:00 AM, but even then one can get delayed and make sure you have all your paperwork for the passengers and any pets. Any missing papers can turn into a adventure one does not want to go through. Check with the customs office if you are not curtain of what you might need ! Rich.

Rusty, Welcome to the Forum! This is a typical way to wire the 4 6 volt batteries. Then depending on how the alternator or battery Isolater is wire in to charge them and the inverter connections add 2 additional ground and positive cables to connect. The batteries are charged by the inverter / charger when it is powered from shore power or the generator. The fact that it is not charging the batteries from the 2 sources of 120 volts could be the charger / inverter 120 volt circuit breaker is off or tripped. Did the charger get turned off inadvertently at the RC panel? The inverter operates when the batteries charge from the Alternator. So the large ANL fuse is good, if it was bad the inverter would not make 120 volts from 12 volts. Rich.

John, There are a number of possible answers to your question depending on the owners personal abilities and financial status. Having them repaired by a service facility can be costly, but replacing them can open up a different set of problems that the older coaches do not have because they where built with a simpler technology. With all the different regulations and newer convince items that open up issues caused by the push button / wireless and CAN system data networks that take specialized equipment to analyze. What do you like about the current coach and what items would be important when considering a different coach. It gets down to the positive and negatives of keeping the current coach verses getting a different one. Rich.

The New tanks with the safety setup and the new style line connectors can be an issue. Picked up a new BBQ line and hooked it up to the tank - No fuel flow, put the old one back on and it worked (Changed it because the line was deteriorating) The line worked on 2 tanks at the LP out let and not on a third. Turned out the connection needs to extend far enough into the tank to open the safety valve - Some of there stock of replacement lines would work and some would not work on every tank. Rich.

RbrbRb, Could you post the Year of the coach? The pilot sensors do fail over time. If the coach is brand new, somebody did not do there job !!! The sensor needs to supply a small voltage like millivolts which is 1/1000th of a volt) and if the voltage is less than 25 millivolts replace the thermocouple. To Test them - one needs to remove it from the refrigerator - clamp it lightly in a vice using the mounting, connect the leads to a digital meter, use a butane lighter or a small torch set at a small flame - heat the tip and read the voltage. Not sure take a picture of the meter reading and attach it to a post. A paper clip bent open a little works well if the meter wires are to big to make a good solid connection for you to connect a meter to. NOTE ! The connections at the control board are very tight, so support the point on the board where the connection is made. Small needle nose pliers at the base of the connector and pull and on the wire connector with a little wiggle motion in line with the wide portion of the spade connection. It will look like this, but the mounting collar might be a little different. Rich.

Nan, The control boards will run at 11.00 volts, The reason the 12.5 was mentioned is in regards the to fans that move air behind the refrigerator - if your coach has then install. Those fans move more air over the coils at the back and more air movement equals better cooling. The fact that you can see a difference in the flame with the spare tank on line - will also help keep things cooler. The one item I forgot to mention was, what we call the dollar bill test. Place the bill between the door edge and the refrigerator box at multiple locations - pull on the bill and if it slides out easily - the seal has air space at that point - that allows the cool air to seep out. Raising inside the temperature. Rich. Nan, Brett mentioned defrosting the frig. and while that is going on, we clean the door seal area top, sides and bottom.

Nan, Brett and Frank have covered things to check and I can not add anything other then to check the battery voltage, Brett touched on it. The closer you are to 12.5 volts the better. So could you post the age of the house batteries. Do you use Solar to supplement you 12 volt requirement? Rich.

Jar, Welcome to the FMCA Forum ! The windshields in coaches are much higher and bigger then the ones in most trucks and vanes. Not knowing what kind of coach you are driving - if it is a bugger unit the job is best done inside. So call around and ask questions. There are locations around that specialize in the larger windshields and a number of them are excepted by insurance companies, but you need to know that right up front. Rich.

The Engine is just kind of getting broken in, if it has not been abused. The engine design should get you 300,000 miles or more. One of the engine designers is a shirt tall relation. When I bought a truck with the 8.1 L. Asked allot of questions. FYI, there are engines that have had Cam and Crank shaft sensor issue, so get the engine serial number and the Chassis Vin number - if there are issues they are on a recall. Rich.

Krik, Welcome to the FMCA Forum ! This is some thing that should be addressed! A knock sensor tells the engine ECM when one or more of your engine's cylinders are knocking, exploding the fuel mixture that results in less power and can cause engine damage if not corrected. The sensors cost from $ 35.00 to $ 90.00 and depends on where one buys them. You need to be aware of Knock offs that get into the parts supply lines. This might be a handy link to keep on file. https://www.ultrarvproducts.com/12591312-8.1L-Knock-Sensor-Asm Rich.

Bill, The Sequence is important ! So if you can watch the jacks as a helper starts the system and see if the first jack stops as soon as it its the ground(give or take a little) --Then the next jack should do the same thing. Do you have the owners manual for the system? If not then more information is needed = A call to Rev Group to get the information sent to you in the PDF format. Hopefully there will be some info on testing the ground sensors, where they are set mechanically and a re-calibration sequence. The system then goes through a dance sequence that the system considers level - from info sent to the control board from the level sensor. Rich.

Bill, Does the leveling system have ground contact sensors? The leveling systems with this feature lower the jacks in a sequence. Left front, right front, Right rear and Left rear. This tells the system when each jack makes ground contact. Rich.

Bill, The old ISB's will make one smile - our coach is 2 years older and the way it is loaded - runs at 10.5 to 11 Mpg(When I don't push it over 1900 RPM). If we run at 58 to 59 MPH it will run at 12+ but with any grades the transmission shift point drops out of 4th. at 50 mph and the MPG goes into the bucket -with a old MT-643 4 speed. The engine will make 990 Ft. Lbs but the torque converter and ECM setup used, drops that to 660 ft Lbs. The maximum input for the transmission. The Load setup for the trans is 42,000 Lbs. and that is well above the the load of the coach. I have to be leave that it was one of the last coaches with the transmission, because the wiring harness is set up for the touch button selector all so. Had the valves reset at 80,000 and that gave me smoother operation and about .5 to .7 more in MPG. Been adding cetane to the fuel the last 18 months and the engine likes that to. Decided to add it after reading that the cetain levels where will below 40 quit often when measured at the pumps. Rich.

Yep ! Hard keeping track of the suppliers then shooting Quail ! I was a lot younger then to. Rich.

Things are a little twisted Lippert, Power Gear, Kwickee and IDS are now combined under LCI. Link to there home page. https://www.lci1.com/ Everything is under Drew Industries Inc. They have been slowly acquiring a number of the RV industry supply companies. Drew completed the acquisition of Actuant Corp., gaining the Power Gear and Kwikee brands, and expanding its product offerings in leveling systems, slideout mechanisms and steps, primarily for motorhome RVs. Rich.

Just a note about the road side assistance insurance. We have always had it for the cars and the kids also and over the years some interesting interactions. The ones that stand out have been - Toe Truck drivers listing on there radios and jumping road service calls. Should this happen they will not honer the insurance carrier. With the Advent of cellphones this issue has decreased, but always be on your toes. Like Chris, I have also had a roadside tire truck not have the proper sized socket on the truck and you need to remember that - the service tech does not own them a truck or car fleet service does and some drivers do not always keep things picked up or know that the correct tools are on the truck. Carrying the proper sized sockets does have its advantages. As they say BTDT. When one needs help and you have roadside service, when those trucks show up and turn on there emergency lights in high traffic areas they are often putting there welfare on the line to help you. SO, when you see a service truck on the side of the road - Just move over or slow down - The difference can be someones life and the difference in your arrival time is only seconds most of the time. Rich.

gordiegaffer, This is a manual link for a Winnebago leveling system that might match your system? https://www.lci1.com/assets/content/support/manuals/Leveling and Stabilization/Kwikee/pg_1422192.pdf Rich.

I agree with Dave. Going to Hiawassee from the East on Rt 17 / 75 is easier then going in on 66 / from Rt. 128 at Blairsville. You will be traveling on Rt that kind of fallows the Trail of Tears. It is very Country, but a nice relaxing area to spend some time. Rich.

jeffmfi, Welcome to the FMCA Forum ! The smell is Hydrogen Sulfide / the rotten egg smell. FYI it is best for your own safety, when you smell or notice the battery bowling - To disconnect the coach from shore power , let it set for 10 min. then hose things down real well. As posted you have a bad battery, that needs to be replaced. The battery should have lasted longer then 8 months though. One Does fail from time to time, but have the charging systems tested - both the Charger when connected to shore power and the Engine Alternator. The Key also could be the way your charger is setup in the charging menu, charging current to high for the battery rating. This is where more information is helpful. So if you could post the Make, Model and year of the coach along with information on the charger / inverter installed in the coach, you help the members offer better information. Then when things settle down add the information , at the bottom of the page like Richard has done, and if you need some help doing it just ask and someone will help you with that also. Rich.

Mike, I have the cord from the generator to the ATS, Because the generators need to be removed for service at times, it is hard for me to see them running the power cable from the gen all the way to the ATS. Not impossible though. The J box for the generator is located up front real close to where the generator is - because the Onan generators power output is on the left side as you look at it from the front. and the box is mounted on or near the top of the front fire wall. The generator feed - should kind of stand out as it is a flexible link from the genset to the J box. I guess there could be a junction box in that compartment to route wires to the power distribution panel and converter. Most inverters have 2 circuit brakes that feed 2 circuits in the coaches(Bypassing the sub panel) or one 30 amp breaker that feeds a sub panel - 1-30 amp cable would be 10 gauge. The power to the inverter runs from the main circuit panel, will be a 10 gauge wire with a designated circuit breaker. The Wires to and from the inverter are located behind a removable cover on the inverter. There is a bus bar for the grounds and one for common feeds, plus screw terminals for the black wire (The hot side.) for both the input side and the output side, that information should be in you owner / user manual. Rich.