dickandlois

They are used to center the chassis over the front Axle. There is a reference point used at both ends of the axle and when they are equal, the axle is centered on the frame. Who uses what method depends on the setup. Rich.

Items like this that make me just want to shout ! The builders cut corners to keep the price down so they can compete with the market, but if things keep coming apart, How long before they are history. Thing to keep in mind is Buyer beware and quite often one gets what they pay for. Then again in today's market when the company departments know there are issues - the top brass just will not except any negative feedback. Appearance and appeal will sell anything. Rich.

HI G. This is a picture of a new track bar from Freightliner. Most likely it is slightly different then the OEM one ? This link might help find what you are looking for. The page size can be enlarged - left side + an - Box. so one can read the information. Think You will need some specific information to see if they can match up what you need. Dayton Parts, LLC 345-714 to 354-7136 Numeric Listing https://cld.bz/bookdata/uCKGlPu/basic-html/page-1113.html https://cld.bz/bookdata/uCKGlPu/basic-html/page-1113.html# This is an Ebay link for one, But structural dimensions are critical for the part and the total length adjustment affect handling and alignment. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Uni-rod-Kit/253656431499?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D52475%26meid%3Dba774b0fab8d4e679dad5828d30f22b8%26pid%3D100623%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D3%26sd%3D142160049107%26itm%3D253656431499&_trksid=p2047675.c100623.m-1 Rich. NOTE. This item needs to be installed properly to maintain proper alignment !!!

Noriser, Welcome to the FMCA Forum ! The tap needed to clean the treads is a 1/2 - 14 Tapered pipe Tap - The Mating Die is 1/2 in. NPT die. This is not a standard stock item for many location like Lowe's or Home depot. Alfa tools is one supplier Rich.

Joe, This is not a vendors forum ! LOL - So I can not offer any information or my personal views of the device. Is that politically correct? It is a Fass DRP series that did not include the installation Kit. Fuel lift capability is 4 ft. and a flow rate of 90 GPH. at 15 to 18 psi. The low number does drop as the engine load increases, but still is well above the OEM pressure levels. Had to lower the pump about 2 1/2 in. so it would clear the frame rail. The pump mounts horizontal so the weep hole is pointed down, if not orientated correctly, the warranty is voided. Used 5/16 -18 stainless steel rod to make mounting studs / jamb nuts at the pump mounting bracket an the pump mounting plate, long enough to drop the pump and clear the frame rail. I placed 3/8 in. threaded couplings over the rod(just a nice fit)to increase the three point bearing weight area of the pump adapter and the OEM mounting plate . The pump hangs out about 3 plus inches from the brackets and I wanted to limit the torquing affect on the mount. The only item left to replace is the fuel input connection from a straight fitting to one with a 15 degree offset so the fuel supply line does not rub on the top corner of the Allison transmission. Rich.

arthur.jeck, The P-30 does not use a relay - it has a floor mounted dimmer switch and is located on the floor left of the steering column. This is a link to what the switch looks like and the same switch was used from 1975 to 1990. https://www.partsgeek.com/kmg68gg-chevrolet-p30-headlight-dimmer-switch.html?utm_source=shopzilla&utm_medium=pf&utm_content=ttc&utm_campaign=PartsGeek+ShopZilla&fp=pp&utm_term=Chevrolet+Headlight+Dimmer+Switch The OEM connector / socket # 8900855. The center terminal is the common wire color Green, The high beam side wire is Yellow and the low beam side wire is Tan. Rich.

"Now, if I can only find the leak in PS slide out." Carl, does it leak only when extended or when it is retracted? Rich.

1988, P-30 Chassis think I have the OEM shop manuals for that one. Will do some digging into the old library. That info. is not loaded on the computer. That makes things a little different then a Ford Chassis. The information I have on you model anf make mentioned the Ford chassis was used, but coach builders did use both in the time frame. Rich.

OK, I just quoted my own post to expand on the lift pump conundrum ! Edited 6-25-2018 I went and purchased an aftermarket lift pump and the difference is very obvious ! After finding a way to mount the pump in the OEM location , Connecting up the fuel lines and replacing the second filter. Because it is much easier with a number of things out of the way. Connected everything up except the 12 volt power, made a jumper cable connection (making sure the polarity was correct)hocked the pump to one of my spare batteries and listened to the sound of the motor for maybe 2 to 3 minutes and then it started to labor. Went to the drivers set and bumped the starter - that worked -so I then cracked the engine for 20 to 30 seconds - no fire - bumped it twice more and the engine tried to com to life. Then I looked at all the connections and checked for any leaks on the pressure side, NO leaks is good. Removed the jumper and the power from the pump, connected the pump to its mating connector. Thinking that if I had a small air leak in the 25 to 30 ft. of fuel line running from the tank back to the pump, I would need to run the pump a few times to re prime the system. The engine sputtered for maybe 5 seconds and smoothed right out, let it run for a good 15 to 20 mins. no issues. Then I oped the fuel line between the second filter and the fuel line running to the injector pump. THAT move allowed to system to loose its prime, but with the pressure gauge now in place I could see the pressure reading slowly rise to 14 psi before the engine started. Ran the engine at idle apx. 750 RPM for around 5 more min. Then got my DW to watch the pressure reading as the RPM's where increased to 1900. Fuel pressure dropped from 14 to 12 psi. The thing that stands out is - the OEM pumps delivered a maximum pressure of 12 psi. that dropped to 9 to 10 psi when idling and dropped to 7 to 8 psi. at 1900 RPM. Let the coach set over night and bumped the starter - The delivery pressure before starting the engine hit 18.5 lbs. Never have had numbers like that, but remember the VP-44 injector pump maximum input pressure is 20 psi if you do not want to kill them. Real good numbers again Started the engine and the idle pressure set at 15 psi. - increased the RPM to 1900 and the pressure leveled at 14 psi. this was a no load test. So I turned on the Dash AC and the load only dropped the pressure 1/2 LB. Will run to the Fuel pumps and top off the tank. OK, Topped off the fuel tank and the fuel pump pressure increased by 1 Lb. Nice, fuel level in the tank increased by 12 plus inches, The pressure only increased a little. That indicates to me that this is indeed a much better pump in regards to its vertical lift ability !! Then to get a road test in before being interrupted for like 2 weeks. Forth of July weekend - Road trip will need to weight for a few days. after that I will see how this miner but impressive change affects the performance on a real road test, of 75 miles and a 3/4 mile climb at 9%. That one hits coming out of a 40 MPH zone. Rich.

Herman, Question! Think that Gpippins is talking about the starter relay that energizes only in the start mode, not the ACC relay that is continually energized. The relay used on the freightliner chassis is most often mounted where DD mentioned and the small wires come from the ignition switch and the relay contacts with the big wires runs to the starter solenoid. Castle Relay ignition circuit picture - connected between the starter solenoid and the ignition switch. Rich.

Michael, Welcome to the FMCA Forum! Well from your list, you sure need to have the shortest coach on the longest chassis so you do not get hung up in a culvert. A short Class A would offer the most storage space and interior room per foot. They also tend to have a little more road clearance. Need to keep the bumpers as close to the wheels as possible. Might want to include a winch setup and a strong rear hitch. The Four season item requires the ability to keep the water, gray and black tanks from freezing, this is the most challenging item on most small units. We have carried water in containers that can be stored inside and some antifreeze to add to the gray and black tanks to keep them from freezing as well as the drain traps. The Class A units also tend to have larger LP and gas tanks, with Gas Generators. That saves the LP for heat and cooking. There are some units that are built more for wilderness camping, but you will need to prioritize some . Not everything fits in one box. Might want to include some solar panels ether mounted or portable to have a secondary 12 volt backup system to help charge the batteries. Traveled around the West and camped on BLM sights plus Alaska - But not in the coldest part of Winter. Rich.

Kay, Nice dark blue, looks like you found a nice bra for the front. I do need to ask if the front right fog light is setup for coon hunting while you are out cursing around the mountains ? Or setup for rock hopping at night around the Blue-ridge area? Hope it works out well for you ! Rich.

Thanks for taking the time to inform all of the issue repair and where the leak was hiding. Rich.

Think I had another DUH Moment ? ,but I copied and pasted that model from a thread reply and there information.. Sometimes the brain is not on the same page or I have to many windows open at the same time. Now to see if there is something closer to the OP year. Edits to follow. Rich. Carl, the battery connections in the picture attached by the OP do not look like the setup in the owners manual for the 2011 Allegro Bus? Wounder if a previous owner added some extra circuits and no notes where passed on ? Some of the clutter is from the terminal caps being removed from the connection posts, looks like the batteries are not on a slide tray and with all the filters above the batteries - impossible to get a good look at things The information was copied and pasted from alflorida's post, my bad!

Glennr, The Chassis builder installed the fuse box for the chassis 12 volt and install 1 to 2 circuits for convince outlets, like the power steps and 12 volt outlets for cellphone and GPS power. Work horse took over the P-series chassis, so matching things up can be challenging. I have 3 or four of the OEM - P series manuals. If you have a camera and take a picture or 2, I might be able to match some thing from that if needed. Rich.

Glennr, Does this look like your fuse panel layout? part # 12162365 01 to 05 W series and P Series Fuse Panel Cover. Is the layout is the same ? https://www.ultrarvproducts.com/12162365-01-05-W-Series-P-Series-Fuse-relay-Box-Cover- Rich. If you can attach a picture of the fuse box - might be able to get closer. 12162365 - 01-05 W-Series & P-Series Fuse/relay Box Cover 12162365 - 01-05 W-Series & P-Series Fuse/relay Box Cover 12162365 - 01-05 W-Series & P-Series Fuse/relay Box Cover

There are 3 supply valves for the system and 1 valve to release the air from the system, in most cases. The air leaks are at the out put of the solenoid operated air valves, there is on spring under the connections to the air springs / levelers that I know of. With the system aired down the lines should disconnect from the connections, Mark each line so you know where to reconnect them - look at the line ends for any damage or cracks. Check the quick disconnects are OK, clean and sealed well into there solenoid. Sure looks like things are leaking at the line coupler not at the coupler connection at the valves. Rich.

rcieslake67, Welcome to the FMCA Forum This might help. Rich Installing SMI Air Force One Supplemental Braking System on 40 Foot Dutchcraft on Spartan Chassis Question: What lines to I use to install air force one on my 40ft Dutchcraft/dutch house on Spartan Chassis. How do I install this unit? asked by: Jimbo F Expert Reply: When installing the SMI Air Force One Supplemental Braking System For Motor Homes with Air Brakes # SM99243 you will need to find the supply air line and the metered air line. On the Dutchcraft motor home on the Spartan Chassis the larger 5/8 inch line is the supply air line, and the smaller 3/8 inch line below the supply air line is the metered air line. I have attached a photo showing witch line is the supply and which line is the metered. Click to Enlarge

Welcome to the FMCA Forum ! Links to some Power gear True line information. https://www.lci1.com/assets/content/support/manuals/pg-valid-manual-air-level-install-service.pdf https://www.lci1.com/assets/content/support/technical-information-sheets/Power_Gear/Leveling/pg_Valid_diagnostic_manual_airhyd.pdf https://www.lci1.com/assets/content/support/manuals/pg_valid_air_only_operator_manual_7_6_05.pdf This link is more related to the Beaver coach system. http://beaveramb.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/Power-Gear-Valid_Service_Manual.pdf Rich.

Welcome to the FMCA Forum ! Kens suggestion for finding what outlets are powered by the inverter is a good one. The common 120 volt wiring from Monaco - The inverter is a Xantrex freedom 2000 watt modified sine-wave, that has 2-120 volt circuit breakers mounted in the unit. One circuit is dedicated to the Microwave and that circuit has a GFI outlet, that has the possibility of feeding one circuit. often the bathroom, but no hair drier and microwave at the same time !!!! The second circuit from the inverter is most often wired to the dining area and extends to the entertainment equipment. Not a good idea to try to make coffee and toaster at the same time or to run the TV - the circuit is limited to 15 amps in most cases. The amount of AC available from the inverter - is limited by the size of the house battery bank and the condition of the batteries. Always remember that those same batteries supply the 12 volts for all the appliances and lighting circuits. You might need to run the generator at times to get enough power and to recharge the coach batteries. There are breakers in the inverter as mentioned above and there is a transfer relay on a time delay that often powers the microwave when on shore power. The only way to really know how your coach is wired is to get PDF drawings from Monaco. Rich.

hvstorck, Welcome to the FMCA Forum ! Living in N.Y. we know all to well how busy the crossing points can get! We try to cross Very early in the morning, like 3:00 to 4:00 AM, but even then one can get delayed and make sure you have all your paperwork for the passengers and any pets. Any missing papers can turn into a adventure one does not want to go through. Check with the customs office if you are not curtain of what you might need ! Rich.

Rusty, Welcome to the Forum! This is a typical way to wire the 4 6 volt batteries. Then depending on how the alternator or battery Isolater is wire in to charge them and the inverter connections add 2 additional ground and positive cables to connect. The batteries are charged by the inverter / charger when it is powered from shore power or the generator. The fact that it is not charging the batteries from the 2 sources of 120 volts could be the charger / inverter 120 volt circuit breaker is off or tripped. Did the charger get turned off inadvertently at the RC panel? The inverter operates when the batteries charge from the Alternator. So the large ANL fuse is good, if it was bad the inverter would not make 120 volts from 12 volts. Rich.

John, There are a number of possible answers to your question depending on the owners personal abilities and financial status. Having them repaired by a service facility can be costly, but replacing them can open up a different set of problems that the older coaches do not have because they where built with a simpler technology. With all the different regulations and newer convince items that open up issues caused by the push button / wireless and CAN system data networks that take specialized equipment to analyze. What do you like about the current coach and what items would be important when considering a different coach. It gets down to the positive and negatives of keeping the current coach verses getting a different one. Rich.

The New tanks with the safety setup and the new style line connectors can be an issue. Picked up a new BBQ line and hooked it up to the tank - No fuel flow, put the old one back on and it worked (Changed it because the line was deteriorating) The line worked on 2 tanks at the LP out let and not on a third. Turned out the connection needs to extend far enough into the tank to open the safety valve - Some of there stock of replacement lines would work and some would not work on every tank. Rich.